Severe inner tire wear

[SandW]

I recently got a 96 2+2 that all 4 tires are being eaton up really, very bad on the inside. I recently got it and am assuming that all 4 have gotten this way from being rotated back to front in the past. One tires was so bad the belts recently started showing. The chassis has 184,000 miles on it.

I took it to an alignment shop and was told the tie-rods needs replacing in order to conduct the alignment. He shook the tires side to side and there was about 1/4 or more play indicating the tie rods are playing too much. The manager also said if that doesn't fix the tire wear issue that the springs could be sagging a bit causing/contributing to the problem, but he couldn't tell me for sure until after the tie-rods and alignment was taken care of.

Questions:1. Is there a way to measure the springs or otherwise test their performance in order to verify a replacement need?

2. If I do replace the springs, what kind/brand would be the best "bang" for my buck?

3. Manager also said struts look very old. If I go with replacing them, what brand should I put in it and should I bother with an adjustable if I don't race, track, or do other custom activities with it? I just like cruising about in it with my kids..

4. Is there any other likely cause of the bad tire wear they may have missed and be particular to this car?

For just the tie rods and alignment I was quoted $310 tax and all. The tie rods were like $48 each part cost.

For the springs and struts the total price was like $633. A lot being labor.

[greensparcs]

if you have access to some jack stands you shouldnt have to much trouble replacing the springs and struts, just might take awhile ,wait you have to disconnect the brake lines right? if not it shouldnt be hard.i dont like messing with hi pressure lines.

[SandW]

Let me expand on my issue a bit. Ok, I bought this really good running stock 96 N/A 2+2 for a good price knowing this would be a $1500 or more piece of the repair action for it. I've got these issues (NOTE: has 184,000 miles on the chassis and I'm assuming none of the suspension parts have ever been replaced from the looks of them and how it drives)1. Severe inner tire wear on ALL tires. Not sure if front is source of problem because I'm not sure if tires were swapped front to back by previous owner due to wear issue. When I got the car the right rear tire was so bad the steel bands were starting to show in 2 or 3 spots--and it lost air fast due to seepage thru the radials. All other tires were pretty equally worn on the inside edge (first 2 inches from sidewall).

2. Pulls/drifts to left when driving over 20mph (DOES NOT get worse with braking, so I concluded not a bad brake caliper, etc). Does not get worse as I gain speed--stays pretty consistant.

3. Really hard/ride--like I'm riding in a go-cart.

4. When hitting bumps of any size it swerves or grabs in either direction as if the wheels just woke up from a nap

Took it to a shop to see what they said about the issues--specifically the inner tire wear. Manager told me it couldn't be aligned until the tie-rods were replaced due to worn-out. He shook the tires and showed me the play in each front tire. He also said the struts looked old/worn out and could be contributing to the ride issue and also the springs.

He didn't mention bushings (front or rear) or anything on the rear.

I don't plan on racing or tracking it so I know even though I could put a sway bar on their I really don't think I'll get much use out of it. So unless there are other benefits I'm not seeing with it I'd rather not go there.

Questions:1. Are there front and rear struts or struts on the front, shocks on the rear?

2. Coil springs on front and rear or only front?

3. What are all the parts that could be, and mostly likely are contributing to my problems?

4. What economic parts would you use and from where? The shop said they'd use my specialty parts if I wanted to bring them in but I don't know what parts to pick and if extra hardware would be needed specific to those parts. I don't want to go overboard with cost but I want it done good at the same time.

5. How difficult is this stuff to replace---could I do it at home with common tools? I know in theory the stuff is simple but everytime I crack into a car project I promise it seems to go weird with complications! About the most I've done on cars is replace brake pads/shoes, rotors, spark plugs, cap/rotor, and electronic tinkering. Never pulled major suspension parts and I don't have any air-powered wrenches to break free rusty/seized parts.

What I really want to avoid is paying someone a lot of labor costs to do just half the job and when something else could be have been replaced to make the ride better while the suspension was apart.

thanks!

[evildky]

he is right on the alignment, you can't align it till the worn out tie rod ends are replaced, as fr the springs, I believe the fsm lists where to measure ride height to determine if your sagging, i replaced all my struts using OE's and the rears came with springs, I got all my parts from http://buynissanparts.com they are a nico sponsor and had some great prices on OE parts

as for replacing aprts, the struts can be tricky due to the preload, if you have access to a compressor it's easy, it can be done without but it's a lot harder, the tie rod ends if they aren't completely seized are easy to replace assuming you have a tie rod seperator (think big wedge shaped fork) but you have to get it aligned after you replace the tie rod ends as it's not gonna go streight, you might also want to check your steering rack bushings while you at it

[NSR_s30]

Definitely a alignment issue. Once you get the tie-rods replaced it'd be good to be aligned. A quick way to check the struts is to jounce the suspension, by pushing on the fender. If the car bounces all around its a goood bet you're going to need new struts. I'd suggest getting them replaced just do to mileage. I'd start there and move on. Also the car could be drifting in the direction to a radial pull from the worn tires. Get the tie-rods replaced, the struts if blown and some new tires the car will ride 100x better.

[SandW]

You've got a very good point, I bet my screwed up eaton-up tires are playing a significant role in the ride drift, pulling, and bouncing (due to not balanced and grossly irregular). So you think probably just my struts might be the significant if not ALL of my wacked-out camber issue?

What I hate about this learning process is relying on paid mechanics that can't seem to agree on 3/4 of the issue.

I've taken it to 3 shops and won't waste my time anymore until I'm ready to put stuff on.

***Which reminds me, if anyone wants to install 4 struts and springs (which I'll supply) and show me how it's done (me looking over shouder only) please speak up! I live in the Chicagoland area. I'll pay you what one shop told me they'd charge for the labor of $200 and maybe more. I'd rather pay a hobbiest and have no warranty on labor than pay a shop that will probably scratch up my paint, leave it filthy inside and out, and gouge my rims in the process!*** Does that irritate anyone else when they do that and seem to care less (the shops probably don't even notice)???

Here is summary of what I was told by the 3 shops of what was causing my out of spec camber/alignment issue and how they differ:

1. Alignment/tire and wheel shop: bad outer tie rods, total cost with parts: $400

2. Specialty shop: bad upper control arms, bad shocks and struts, said outer tie rods looked fine (not new, but certainly within op specs) total cost with parts $1200

3. Another all purpose shop: just struts are bad and should fix camber issue and will allow proper alignment. According to them and a parts store I consulted with the springs rarely go bad unless heavy/abused 4X4/work type vehicle. Total cost just labor (recommended I get Eibach struts and bring in) $200_________________Tech Q 1. What does the upper control arm really do with these Zs and how can I diagnose them as really being bad? I went to a parts store and one rep, after looking at the Nissan provided diagram (and showing me) said my 300ZX doesn't really have an "upper control arm" but several seperate members that he thought the shop might be referring to but wasn't sure.

Tech Q 2. Also, anyone actually measured their springs to see if they are sagging? I'd like to do this and rule out/in my springs conditions.

[cuttybone]

hello everyone, this is my first post as i am a new member.

Purchased my 90' 300zx (non turbo) about 2 years ago for 2000 bucks, even came with some nice old school staggered niche rims.
The car sat for several years with gas in tank. then someone decides he's gona start it up........bad idea. $700 and several hours later new injectors are in.(that is a job i would definately not want to do again any time soon)
To make a long story short i have replaced the fuel tank, fuel pump, and olmost all front end hardware including drive shaft, support bearing, headers, pipes and mufflers. also just recently replaced front lower ball joints and front and rear shocks and struts. i have had an alignment done but my tires are still wearing on the inside. the tech. that did the alignment said that the factory specs called for it to be slightly off for handling purporses. i was wandering if there is a specific hight that the springs need to be because thats the only thing i havent replaced yet. i enjoy my z but if i got to replace $1000.00 in tires every year thats gona suck because ima keep it regaurdless, runs like a top.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Welcome to Nico!

Your toe needs to be adjusted to prevent inner tire wear. If you lower the car below factory height, you'll need adjustable upper camber arms. Powertrix makes some great units. If you're only going to do a mild drop (around 1" or so), then the 300° Camber Compensation Kit may be a good fit for you.

[cuttybone]

Thanks!
just had it aligned so hope that helps.
car has not been lowered so if this doesnt work i guess i'll start replacing rear suspension starting with the springs. is it possible that the springs are bad?, and if so how can i check them. already replaced shocks.

[Z-owned]

How far off was the alignment? The stock springs can sag a good amount with age.

[DCaff300ZX]

If your '90 has not has the FUCA's replaced I'd also check there, as with excess wear they can move into a position that could cause excess camber