Several Lights on in Dash

[KVipers]

I have a 2008 Rogue SL AWD with 120,000kms and it has worked perfect as long as I've had it. I live in Eastern Canada (although is not cold or snowing at the moment). Brakes are only a few thousand kms old (however I have one caliper sticking which is being addressed ASAP).

Last week while driving on the highway my ABS tried to engage for no apparent reason. After trying a couple times (and making an awful grinding noise), I heard a little click (as if the computer was disabling ABS) and then the following lights came on and stayed on:

ABS
Slip
VDC
AWD
E-brake

After cycling the key only once, all the lights go out, but after driving again the same thing happens. I even had it happen while the vehicle was in (P)ark, just idling. The last time I drove it it happened and my brakes went soft for a short period (luckily I was nowhere near other vehicles).

After doing some reading on here I have discovered this is not uncommon and has been linked to wheel speed sensors, brake light switches, corroded ABS wires, and the dreaded ABS controller et al.

The only difference is that I have yet to come across someone who has their AWD and E-brake lights come on in addition to the VDC, ABS and slip.

I've stopped driving my Rogue until I can get it into the dealer to try and pull codes to see what's happening.

My question is, does anyone have any ideas what might be happening since my AWD and E-brake lights are also coming on in addition to all of the ones others have mentioned?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

[ImStricken06]

air in the line could be causing brake issues.
dead battery causes weird lights like brake to come on
low brake fluid can cause brake lights
abs sensor can cause issues.

there is too much for us to even begin to talk about, on a forum. i'd say hit the dealer and report back.

[tsumeone]

AWD light coming on in addition to ABS light is common in most cars who don't have "real" all wheel drive. My Ford Escape had the same issue when ABS speed sensors would go, the ABS, Brake, and 4X4 alerts would all come on. That's because in these cars the AWD system uses input from the ABS sensors to know where to put the torque.

I would bet on a bad vehicle speed sensor but you won't know for sure until you take it in. At the least you can get the code read somewhere and see if it is isolated to one wheel.

[KVipers]

Ok, so I just got back from having the dealer plug in and this is what I found out:

they printed me off a sheet with a bunch of codes and on the right hand side there is a number that they said indicates the number of key cycles since the code has happened. Several of them say PAST and I am ignoring them. BUT there are several that show up all at the same time. They are as follows:

System DTC Detailed Info TIME

Engine P0500 Vehicle Speed Sen A 20
Engine P1212 TCS/CIRC 19
Engine U1001 Can Comm Circuit 19
Engine P1574 ASCD VHL SPD Sensor 10

ABS C1108 FR LH Sensor-2 19

Transmission U1000 Can Comm Circuit 38
ALL MODE AWD/4WD C1203 ABS System 19
ALL MODE AWD/4WD C1210 Engine Signal 1 19

The bolded one (FR LH Sensor 2) is the only one that the dealer really pointed out. I am wondering if I should worry about all the other codes, though? You can clearly see the pattern of lights that were coming on (19 key cycles ago). Or perhaps the speed sensor would remedy it all?

[darylzero]

What did the dealer recommend?

[KVipers]

I haven't had a chance to put the Rogue up on my host and check for anything obvious, so I told them I only wanted to see what codes were showing up. They circled the front left wheel speed sensor (and there was another small evap leak code also showing up that they circled). I am going to start with this sensor, but I was curious if anyone had any insight into whether or not there is cause for alarm about all of the other lights? Or maybe those lights are a result of this speed sensor..

[tsumeone]

I haven't had a chance to put the Rogue up on my host and check for anything obvious, so I told them I only wanted to see what codes were showing up. They circled the front left wheel speed sensor (and there was another small evap leak code also showing up that they circled). I am going to start with this sensor, but I was curious if anyone had any insight into whether or not there is cause for alarm about all of the other lights? Or maybe those lights are a result of this speed sensor..

A lot of those codes look familiar, like the same codes that come up when my Ford Escape has the tone ring break on the axle and takes out the ABS sensor with it (bad design traps in water guaranteeing it will rust and I'll need a new axle in a few years, I'm on axle #3 now...) I would replace the sensor and clear the codes, see which come back. I think most of them will go away.

[KVipers]

I'm thinking thats what will happen. I am curious to see the tone ring when I finally get it up. I'll let you know what happens.

[darylzero]

I didn't know what a tone ring is, so a quick search came up with this quote I found on another forum.

KVipers, I have a feeling you are correct that fixing one of those will fix them all.

"..have you cleaned the tone ring?" and of course someone always asks...whats that? or where can I find it? So here is a elementary explanation and a common ABS pic of a sensor and tone ring:

The wheel speed sensor is built into the wheel bearing hub assembly.
A metal "tone ring" with a predetermined number of teeth sits between the inner and outer bearings. A Hall Effect sensor plugs into a carefully machined hole in the forging, locating it just above the tone ring.As the vehicle's wheelturns, the tone ring teeth pass by the sensor. The gaps between the teeth trigger the sensor in direct relationship to their speed. As the wheel turns faster, the teeth pass faster under the sensor. Under braking, the anti-lock computer compares the signals from the wheel speed sensors. If it sees the wheels are locked or turning at different speeds (skidding), it triggers the ABS braking system to modulate the brakes.

Since there is no direct mechanical contact between the tone ring and the sensor, the air gap between them must be precisely maintained or it will give false readings. The air gap in this type of system is normally in the range of 1mm.

NHTSA is investigating the likelihood that salt used on the roads in some states is working its way into the hub assembly via the sensor hole, contaminating the hub assembly, fouling the all-important air gap and corroding the sensor itself. When the gap is fouled in any way, the sensor can report a higher or lower speed than actual, or send a garbled, useless signal, any of which can confuse the ABS system into working when it should not, or not work when it should.

For example, coming to a low-speed stop, three of the wheel speed
sensors may be reading 50 RPM, while the contaminated sensor reports 500 RPM. The ABS braking computer compares signals and sees this situation as a vehicle out of control, one wheel turning 500 RPM and three wheels skidding at 50 RPM. Because the purpose of the ABS system is to prevent wheel lockup and skidding, it kicks in aggressively to pulse
the brakes. But when ABS triggers at too-low speeds, it significantly and
unsafely lengthens what should be a simple low-speed stop.

I found this image on google.




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Here is a good blog post about it. This is probably the exact same thing that happened to tsumeone

http://www.edsgarageblog.com/2012/06/fo ... ssues.html

[ezb57e]

There is no distinct tone ring on this vehicle, the wheel bearing functions as the ring.
I agree with the dealer that the front left hand sensor needs a good look.
The UXXXX codes are so common I don't pay much attention to them at first.
Many warning lamps come on because so many systems use the wheel speed sensors as an input. If the input is missing or irrational, a fault is detected.

[Schwass]

In the end what was the outcome.
My '08 Rogue AWD has started acting the exact same as what you have described. Thanks for your insight.
Also, there is a 'rattle', sounds like there is a heat shield on the exhaust that is vibrating. Apply power and it goes away, does anyone know if there is a lose item underneath or is it related to the CVT?
Thanks,