setting ignition timing? set valves(need to set distributor)

[vacnsewmedic]

i set tdc and cams up, I took out distributor and didnt make marks(oops) im trying to set up rotor to number 1 spark plug and it still doesnt fire, when i play with it alittle it seems like it wants to start, CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP

[deathkeeper]

Are you sure that you are at TDC on cylinder #1? You could be 180 degrees off.

[vacnsewmedic]

are u talking about 180 off on distributor?

[boostme]

Yep that's what he's talkin bout. Pull that dist and turn the rotor 180 or move your wires opposite where they are on the cap if you don't wanna pull the dist.

Cams move at 1/2 speed of crank, so at 180 off you're firing #4 instead of #1.

[mss5413]

easy to check if you have a timing light. just flash it at the pulley while you are turning it over. If it does not light up the timing marks then you will know that you have problems. Timing lights are always good to have.

[boostme]

if you're 180 off it'll still flash on the mark. It's still good advice though, at least you know you're in the ballpark.

[frapjap]

And changing the wires is muuuuuch more worth the trouble you'll spend retarding/advancing the timing to get it right.

[vacnsewmedic]

WELL DUDES,,,,,

GUESS WHAT ITS THE COMPRESSION....DA?N

1 IS ZERO2 IS ZERO3 IS 1454 IS 145

NOW WHAT?

[frapjap]

WOOOOOOAH. Umm...yeah...I'll let someone more qualified answer that.

[boostme]

Ouch, you need to have a leakdown test performed to figure out why you have no compression in #1 and #2. You may have installed the cam incorrectly and bent some valves.

Head's probably gonna have to come off...

[vacnsewmedic]

just came back in from outside with a mechanic, he said more than likely what it looks like it bent rods on right side looking at engine on 1 & 2the valve clearance is obvious

he said i can probaly get away with just replacing the rods if everything else looks fine,

any advice is welcome

[boostme]

You're gonna have to pull the head and pop valves in. OEM valves aren't that hard to install as long as your head is in good shape and doesn't need a valve job. If you have high mileage you might want to consider one though.

That said, I'd leave the job to someone with alot of experience. Might wanna get the chain guides and tensioners done along with a reseal on the front cover while you're add it.

Sorry, expensive job too....

[vacnsewmedic]

HEY BOOST THANKS

THE CAR ONLY HAS 75,000 MILES ON IT, IM IN THE PROCESS OF TAKING THE HEAD OFF NOW, WHAT TOOL IS USED FOR THE CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS?? PLUS I CANT GET TO THE INTAKE BOLTS TOWARD THE BOTTOM IS THERE A TOOL RECOMMENDATION...LOL

IM HALF WAY THERE, BUT STILL ON ROUTE

[hpdrumakk]

cylinder head bolts r taken off w/ hex sockets.... basically if a regular socket was a female the ones u need would be a male.... 10 mm is the right size i believe.... pretty sure u can pick some up at ur local hardware or auto parts store

a long extension and a lil swivel connection for the socket worked good for me on the lower intake manifold bolts