"Service Engine Soon" light came ON today

[MZH]

Hey guys, I know this has been brought up before...

I came back from work and parked the car outside my home. After 2 hours when I tried to start it again - it started and then the engine shut down immediately.
I tried again after couple of mins and it started but the light is still ON.

Suggestions - I am due for a timing belt. Since the car (2006 M35) has near 50K and dealer told me belt need to be changed ASAP.
Front brakes are down to 0.2 as well.

I am planning to see if I can read the codes first and if not go to the dealer for timing belt (if you guys think I can make it there safe under current conditions?) and ask him to take a look as well.

Any suggestions are welcome.

[agee]

Did your dealer say "timing belt" or some other belts? These engines have timing chains and not belts.

I'd see if you can borrow a code reader from an auto parts store and see if you can pull the code for the CEL and google the code to see what could be the problem.

[06M4.5]

try your best to stay away from the dealer

Always try to read codes and reset to see if they come back.

[MZH]

Did your dealer say "timing belt" or some other belts? These engines have timing chains and not belts.

I'd see if you can borrow a code reader from an auto parts store and see if you can pull the code for the CEL and google the code to see what could be the problem.

No - the dealer recommended the belt and brakes in my last service few days ago. I still need to show/investigate the current problem with the light...

[MZH]

try your best to stay away from the dealer

Always try to read codes and reset to see if they come back.

Sure guys - I have a local mechanic who can do it. Any idea where the code reader hooks-up in this car?

For my Honda I know it goes near the pedals inside the car!

[Ilya]

The OBD-II port is in the same spot as most cars, at the bottom of the dashboard above the pedals (in this case, directly below the trunk release button).

As for your 'timing belt'...you need to STAY AWAY from whoever told you this. These cars, as said above, are timing chain (as most Nissan products are). We don't have a belt. We only have belts for the accessories. So, stay away from them because they don't know this car and could screw something up. This would not cause your issue.

Your issue may be one of the following (off the top of my head):

1) Spark plugs/coil packs not firing causing the car to misfire/stall (you'd have to have none of them firing or most of them bad to cause a stall)
2) Mass airflow sensor (can cause the car to stall or run in 'limp home mode' if faulty)
3) Engine Coolant temp sensor (if the ECTS isn't reading an accurate temp, the computer could change the parameters it uses to run causing stalls or otherwise diminished performance)
4) Large vaccuum leak somewhere in the system (after the mass airflow sensor)

There may be other issues...but definitely get your codes read. You can go to a local auto store like Autozone or something and they should be able to do it for you for free (forget which chain does them for free).

[atlM35]

You sure they didn't recommend changing an accessory belt?
Anything we say without the trouble code is a guess at this point. Let us know what comes up.

[MZH]

You sure they didn't recommend changing an accessory belt?
Anything we say without the trouble code is a guess at this point. Let us know what comes up.

Looking at the previous paper work it was the serpentine belt (A/C and alternate) that the dealer recommended to change since it was cracking (50K miles now).

I will get back with the engine codes in a bit ...

[GQM45s]

may want to check the belts - if its cracked also dependent on weather and heat from the motor it could have just busted on you.... check to see if you have AC or HEAT, that might give you a clue as well for one of the accessory belts

[The Bodyguard]

I did a thorough 60k miles service, aside from normal maintenance I had already done, brakes, wipers, oil change and filters, Etc. I also did accessory belts, coolant and transmission service! I can see your belts going bad (6yrs) low miles is good but belts will still deteriorate as will tires (rubber)! As for your CEL, definitely take it to your local auto parts store first to get your code read and get back with us, google it, research it first! It's free!! Stay away from the stealership... CEL should/would not go on for low brakes or bad belts... Other warning lights yes, but not CEL!!

[06M4.5]

My M has 62k miles and both belts are cracked, I just ordered the 2 Goodyear Gatorback belts and I'll be done with all maintenance items.

[The Bodyguard]

My M has 62k miles and both belts are cracked, I just ordered the 2 Goodyear Gatorback belts and I'll be done with all maintenance items.

Good deal!! Best belts I hear!! I got caught at the dealership with cracked belts and had to go with OEM but M45 gone now so doesn't really matter now!! I recommend coolant service and transmission service before 75k if you don't do them at 60k like I did...

[06M4.5]

I just got an oil & filter change, radiator & rear was flushed by machine. All for about $140. The stealer wanted around $350

I had to buy a qt. of matic S at the Nissan stealer for $13 (rip off) to top of my trans which doesn't need to be changed for another 10k miles.

I was able to order both belts (Goodyear Gatorbacks) for about $40 with shipping. Stealer wanted around $365

As soon as I get both belts I'll have them installed and will be finished with the maintenance at a price of less than $250

[The Bodyguard]

I bought OEM belts, cost me $65 for one and $45 the other, total $110!! Damn $365 was the price they were quoting you??? I wouldn't go to that stealership not to even ask any questions...

[06M4.5]

$365 was with belts & installed.

All stealers up here are the same.

Stealers also wanted $140 for rear gear oil & $275 for trans with Matic S. Prices up here are just crazy.

Best to go to a local shop and stay away from stealers as much as possible.

[MZH]

You sure they didn't recommend changing an accessory belt?
Anything we say without the trouble code is a guess at this point. Let us know what comes up.

Hey guys - took me a bit to get back with the codes. Had to go out of town. Back now and just getting back from the mechanic who read the codes.

Here it is:

P2135 --- TPS switch A/B voltage fault

This is the only one he found. Let me know what to do? I have the Elite Protection Plan on my car. Will that cover this? can I correct it myself?

[atlM35]

Disconnect the harness, Clean both ends of the connection.
Tap the TPS a few times with the handle of a screw driver.
Reset the code. Drive around with a few wot runs, then drive normally.

If the code comes back, replace TPS.

[06M4.5]

I'm done with maintenance on my M, I got both drive belts installed today. Car feels smoother.

[MZH]

Disconnect the harness, Clean both ends of the connection.
Tap the TPS a few times with the handle of a screw driver.
Reset the code. Drive around with a few wot runs, then drive normally.

If the code comes back, replace TPS.

Guys, I have been traveling but today after coming back form work (SES light still ON) I stopped to see my Dr.
After I came back and started the car - the light did not show up again.

I have an appointment set with the dealer before that for tomorrow. My car is covered under Elite Warranty btw.
Is this issue covered under the warranty? also do you guys see any issue if I keep driving the car now? while the SES light is gone!

atlM35: I dont have idea where the harness is located! can you detail a bit?

[The Bodyguard]

CEL would definitely be covered under elite warranty... I don't think you had mentioned that before. You should just take it to them they may want to file a claim but it shouldn't cost you anything besides your deductible!!