Service Engine Light/ Oxygen Sensor

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Amosnorider
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Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 7:53 pm

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Got a 2000 I30 with a SES light. Code suggests Bank 1 O2 sensor slow response. Anyone changed one? Should i have a shop perform the work?My I30 seems to run great and i can get almost 28 mpg hwy. Does this mean its starting to get bad but is still working somewhat?Im thinking its the Blue o2 sensor clearly visible in the front of the motor. Correct? Help a Fella out!thanks.


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jltibbs
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1994 Infiniti Q45
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It's actually located in the rear exhaust manifold, better accessed from underneath on a lift.

Bosch part number 13350$104 from AAP


Amosnorider
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 7:53 pm

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OK. is the blue one Bank 2 sensor #1?How easy is it to install?Dont i need to reset the ECM after the install?

NutriaforBreakfast
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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:41 pm
Car: Nissan Maxima 1995 VQDE engine

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If its the O2 sensor closest to the end of the tailpipe I have installed it.It takes about 15 min. I ruined the rubber plug which supports thewiring and keeps it weatherproof. I got some silicone sealant to resealit and put some tough electric shrink wrap covering on the wiring whichrests under the car to keep the wire weatherproof. I used some permatexfor engine parts when screwing in the sensor to the exhaust. IF YOU AREDOING SOME MODS LIKE MINE JUST BE SURE NOTHING CATCHES ON FIREAS THE EXHAUST IS HOT.

I had CEL going off all the time until I replaced this. Yes I replaced it witha Bosch like you have a picture of and it ran a lot better and I have hadno problems with the O2 sensor. The car ran a lot better too.

Job is probably easier than changing the oil.

Amosnorider
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 7:53 pm

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Update.After going to Advanced a couple times i finally figured out that bank 1 sensor 2 was my bad one. Its the downstream white heated four wire sensor Bosh # 13374. I only changed the bank one sensor even though it would have been a good idea to do the other bank (red cord downstream sensor). Both sensors run the same line and use the same anchor points. Took the neg battery wire off for over an hour to clear the SES light. 20 mi so far and no light.Word to the wise- when removing the old sensor- unplug at the clip then, unscrew the sensor but only to the point where you can rotate it the rest of the way by hand. starting with the plastic wire anchor closest to the top of engine work your way down toward the bottom. There are two or three points under the car by the oil drain plug where its really hard to get some needle nose in there to release the anchor. So i just got some side cutters and snipped off the back side and the anchor and it pulled right out. Finish unscrewing the sensor with the wires completely free. Installing the new sensor is a piece of cake. Put anti seize in the threads and screw sensor almost all the way in. Then just snake the wires back up thru the engine clipping the plastic anchors into place as you go. TIP!!! make sure you keep the wires straight and not twisted or touching hot exhaust components. Once your done, finish by snugging up the sensor underneath with the correct tool.Plug battery back in and hope your light does not come back on.Good luck. Hope this helps someone.

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time_tracker
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed May 06, 2009 8:50 am

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Amosnorider wrote:Update.After going to Advanced a couple times i finally figured out that bank 1 sensor 2 was my bad one. Its the downstream white heated four wire sensor Bosh # 13374. I only changed the bank one sensor even though it would have been a good idea to do the other bank (red cord downstream sensor). Both sensors run the same line and use the same anchor points. Took the neg battery wire off for over an hour to clear the SES light. 20 mi so far and no light.Word to the wise- when removing the old sensor- unplug at the clip then, unscrew the sensor but only to the point where you can rotate it the rest of the way by hand. starting with the plastic wire anchor closest to the top of engine work your way down toward the bottom. There are two or three points under the car by the oil drain plug where its really hard to get some needle nose in there to release the anchor. So i just got some side cutters and snipped off the back side and the anchor and it pulled right out. Finish unscrewing the sensor with the wires completely free. Installing the new sensor is a piece of cake. Put anti seize in the threads and screw sensor almost all the way in. Then just snake the wires back up thru the engine clipping the plastic anchors into place as you go. TIP!!! make sure you keep the wires straight and not twisted or touching hot exhaust components. Once your done, finish by snugging up the sensor underneath with the correct tool.Plug battery back in and hope your light does not come back on.Good luck. Hope this helps someone.


Good job, very nice review.

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loystock
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For I30 owners with CA-emission standard, it would be better to know the cable length and type of connector (3 or 4-wire) if you are ordering on-line. There are differences in location and cable length between CA and USA-emission configurations. Scottsdale Infiniti sells O2 sensor for USA-emission configuration only. For my 99 I30, I bought the rear O2 sensor from sparkplugs.com/ngk.com. The price is very reasonable and the service was very good. However, I had to do an RMA to get the correct replacement part. For whatever reason, all the sites I went to had the wrong part number for the rear O2 sensor.

Rod


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