Serious G50 Mechanical Issues

[wannabevip_g50]

new here and just got my 1st "luxury" car that i am interested in vip styling but a lot of mechanical attention is needed beforehand. been researching through the forum tech articles for the past couple of hours and i have some ?'s that need clearer answers if anybody's willing to help..........1) the whole p/s system in my 94 Q45 has finally failed. pulley sounds like its about to fly off 2) lots of fluid around power steering hose coming from reservoir and 3) rack and pinion is beat up accompanied by 4) loud "rattling" pulley sound and straining/squealing sound when turning wheel........

as most would say its time to start replacing things. so i went here...

http://www.autopartswarehouse.....html

when i was looking through the forum tech articles i saw something trying to show how you can tell if you have active or non-active suspension but the diagram was too small to tell. can someone please tell me how i can figure out if i have active or non-active suspension and which p/s pump to get from that link above. there's too many to choose from.

ive also got really fluctuating idle even after a MAF and a throttle body cleaning and i know its not my fuel injectors....yet....plus some strange and very brief "whistling" or "train wheel screeching" sound thats not very loud from under hood that happens randomly when under normal driving conditions (no braking)......

prices for parts are so high and hard to find for my 94 q45 there has to be a place to find stuff other than infinitipartsusa.com
Modified by wannabevip_g50 at 8:04 AM 1/20/2010

[maxnix]

prices for parts are so high and hard to find for my 94 q45 there has to be a place to find stuff other than infinitipartsusa.com

PS pumps never fail unless there is a history of prolonged neglect.

If Joe's prices scare you, might think of another car with fewer cylinders. Nissan wants the G50 off the road, evidently.

[paranoidjack]

He's right. You're 2-4k away from properly and safely running your q45.

Nevermind the money on VIP - your best bet is to go find an old acura legend or CL/TL.

[Q45tech]

$2-$4K may be light as every used 90-96 Q45 we have seen for prepurchase needed $3,000> $11,000 to restore to near new mechanical condition not including body work, paint, glass, or interior.

You can get stuck with a beutiful pig if it was garaged [even stored under a tent] but not maintained.Our techs buy these beauties for $250>500 and spend weeks* getting them running for wives/girl friend BECAUSE we always buy wrecks for cheap spare parts.

Things like belts, injectors, harnesses, sensors, spark plugs, shocks can add up to a quick $3,000 just for parts at wholesale.

Not a car for the financially weak as it usually take $2500 per year [every year] AFTER the iniitial fix up. Plus the 16 city MPG can be worse if you do multiple cold starts per day.

* WEEKS = sat and sunday for a few weekends and time after 6pm as we allow our techs to work in shop after closing on their own cars.

T3 will soon stop buying old 90-96 Q45 junkers because the process is no longer cost effective space, mess, etc.

Most PEOPLE who own these old units cannot afford even junk parts or $90/hr labor. WE get frustrated in not being able to get owners to do all safety repairs and worry about liability for allowing them back on road.

[wannabevip_g50]

this is all very unfortunate to hear but i still may think about keeping it around.....again does anybody know how to figure out if you have active or non-active suspension???

[Q45tech]

Q45a vs just Q45/ Q45t on rear. Interior H/L switch.

[Q45tech]

I plan on keeping my 1990 Q45 for 10+ more years but I have $20,000 + in used and new parts at home to feed in as they fail.

I am lucky in that for the foreseeable future I can get night/weekend labor for $40/hour saving me $1,000 per year compared to dealer.

At some point [15-20 years] harnesses/plastic/rubber become too brittle to reuse and even brand new ones sealed in plastic may degrade.

Nissan is phasing out parts as inventory is depleted. Junk yards or those junkers you buy and tow home may be the only sources.

Junkyards may be trashed as buyers rip and tear good parts to get at what they need.

[Infinitiguy19]

I plan on keeping my 1990 Q45 for 10+ more years but I have $20,000 + in used and new parts at home to feed in as they fail.

I am lucky in that for the foreseeable future I can get night/weekend labor for $40/hour saving me $1,000 per year compared to dealer.

At some point [15-20 years] harnesses/plastic/rubber become too brittle to reuse and even brand new ones sealed in plastic may degrade.

Nissan is phasing out parts as inventory is depleted. Junk yards or those junkers you buy and tow home may be the only sources.

Junkyards may be trashed as buyers rip and tear good parts to get at what they need.

Glad to hear you will grace us with your knowledge for 10 more years Tech.

Well we can start making our own harness for the Q45 as needed, Dealers do stock the Molex pins so we just need the connectors and new wire.

But to the original poster: Just take it easy and one problem at a time otherwise this will overwhelm you. And prioritize the problems so everyone on the road is safe.

Focus on fixing the problems at hand while the parts are still avalible then focus on making the car better. Hell find your self some cheap 1990-1994 Q45's and part them out but keep the good stuff for your self.

See the link in my signature if you want to learn about the Q45.

[wannabevip_g50]

paul wall....which repairs would you say to start off with first???? or at least that are more common to fail and need attention/fixing on 94 Q45's???

[Infinitiguy19]

Well it sounds like you need some new pulleys: http://www.activesuspensionsys....html

Then you have something wrong with your suspension so see this Technical Service Bulletin: https://docs.google.com/filevi...hl=en

Fix those then see what else is wrong with your power steering system.

Then test all your injectors and Knock Sensor while your there: http://q45.org/ohminjectors.html

If that all tests fine then run some BG44K or Redline S1 and change the oil soon after.

If any of the above has no effect please post back.

[masoQist]

Not sure I understand all of the original post. You mentioned a fluid leak around the reservoir. If the fluid level in the reservoir gets low enough, the system will start sucking air. Once this happens, you may need to follow the FSM procedure for bleeding the air out and restoring the proper fluid level. If you are lucky, you may only need to tighten a hose clamp and add a little fluid, instead of spending thousands $$$ (this time anyway).

[wannabevip_g50]

Q45a vs just Q45/ Q45t on rear. Interior H/L switch.

mine just says 'Q45' on the rear trunk and underneath car there is only springs/shocks....nothing special to point an active suspension existence unless active suspension just looks like regular shocks/springs too lol

[wannabevip_g50]

paul wall.....the link you gave me was only to idler pulleys but i think i need other pulleys like p/s pulley etc

also p/s fluid in reservoir is not low surprisingly but there is a lot of visible fluid that looks like it has been coming out from the top part of the p/s reservoir hose so im assuming p/s pump is bad??? steering wheel is hard to turn.....rack and pinion looks bad too.......

[masoQist]

Search through old posts, and you will find that the bearing on the idler pulley fails and can cause p/s related noise.

The hose connections to the reservior are on the suction side of the pump. If they are leaking at the res. connection, that is probably because they are old and crusty and need to be replaced - the problem has nothing to do with the pump.

Did you check the fluid level with the engine running? I found that when my system had trapped air, the fluid level was fine with the engine off, but as soon as the engine was started, it would suck the reservior dry. Upon shutting the engine off, the reservoir would promptly refill back to the correct level.

[wannabevip_g50]

thank you for clarifying those details......everybody's help has really helped me understand more about this vehicle

another question.....would anyone happen to know why the car makes a "winding" noise when pressing the gas pedal/acceleration???? almost sounds like an electronic wind up toy when accelerating only....

[TellarHK]

Never, ever deal with Autopartswarehouse.com. That is the company that screwed me over on an order of rear shocks for my G50, by taking my money for three weeks without ever shipping me a thing, after lying to me and telling me the parts were in stock when I placed the order - but by telling me they hadn't had any in stock for months when I called to check on the order when I hadn't gotten a confirmation on delivery a week later. And yes, they kept my money until I complained and threatened them.

There are other websites that are owned by the same people, with completely different names such as SpeedyCarParts (I think) and you can only see the relation when you get to the checkout process.

Get your parts from Infiniti of Scottsdale, they're really a great resource.

[Infinitiguy19]

Does it sound like a supercharger sound almost?

How old is the transmission fluid?

When were both transmission filters changed?

[wannabevip_g50]

Does it sound like a supercharger sound almost?

How old is the transmission fluid?

When were both transmission filters changed?

kinda....check this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAw0Q0htSyk

.....in that video i hear two sounds; an "electronic" wind-up sound and air hissing. funny thing is i hear both sounds from my 94 Q45.....just not as loud. 1) when the engine is on i hear a constant "air hissing" sound like air is coming out at the top of the "spider" plenum near the firewall and 2) the electric wind-up sound i hear is similar to that supercharger in that video whenever i step on the accelerator/gas pedal....just not as loud.

as far as transmission stuff....dont know if it was ever touched. shifts easy though....the car has 174k miles.

[Infinitiguy19]

That exhaust makes that car sound retarded.

But check the vacuum pressure at warm idle: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x9dWhSLgJk

[wannabevip_g50]

That exhaust makes that car sound retarded.

But check the vacuum pressure at warm idle: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x9dWhSLgJk

not sure what checking the vacuum pressure would do but ok.....as far as that link you gave me to that activesuspension website for the idler pulleys/bearing.....what exactly am I purchasing on that site????it looks like they're selling 4 pulleys or bearings for idler im assuming??

[Infinitiguy19]

I am trying to be nice in helping you, But you have to search for yourself.

The bearings on the pulleys need to be replaced every 100K+ miles. So call up Keith tell him you DON'T have a Q45a or Q45t and he will send you 3 bearings at a reduced price. I can vouch for the man because I bought some off of him and he makes them for submarines. Now if your in a sub and your engine is making noise because of these bearings your DEAD, so this man doesn't mess around. What kinda sucks is the previous owner of my car replaced them already but I just have them sitting around. So replace the bearings and see if the problem goes away.

And I pointed you to the video of me performing a vacuum test on my car because I think you may have a vacuum leak. So do the same test and post your results because its stupid easy to do.

[goody90q45]

.....again does anybody know how to figure out if you have active or non-active suspension???

Q45tec*'s answer was very cryptic but the next easiest way to tell, since the "a" on the trunk badge could have fallen off, is to open the hood and look at the top of the struts. If there's a pair of 1/4" hydraulic lines coming out the top of the strut you have an active suspension. If no lines you have a standard suspension.

.....Ive also got really fluctuating idle even after a MAF and a throttle body cleaning and i know its not my fuel injectors.....

The whistling and fluxuating idle does sound like a vacuum leak which could be caused by a loose, disconnected or cracked hose. If it's loud enough to hear from the passenger compartment while driving you should be able to pinpoint it under the hood while revving the engine.

Just for kicks though, the fluxuating idle could be a loose or dirty MAF connector. Unplug the connector and check its pins and the MAF pins for corrosion. Clean if necessary and lube with dielectric grease. While the connector is unplugged, tighten up the legs of the 3 pins with a small nail or screwdriver. The connector should almost snap on and fit tight with little wiggle when you're done. How much does the connector wiggle up and down right now? Does it affect the idle when you gently wiggle it?

Good luck with the Q. They're great rides once you put the time and $$ in to get them up to par.

[wannabevip_g50]

I am trying to be nice in helping you, But you have to search for yourself.

im sorry im just a newbie when it comes to this stuff but believe i truly am grateful for your help including everybody else help......

.....goody90q45.....i wiggled the MAF sensor connector today and the idle didnt seem to fluctuate.....maybe there is a vaccuum leak becuase i did notice air hissing coming from backside of upper air "spider" plenum near firewall....wonder what vaccuum lines run back there..

[Infinitiguy19]

There are vacuum hoses in the back of the plenum and thats where you tee in the vacuum gauge. The fuel pressure regulator more precisely.

Here are some Nissan FAST (Dealer) diagrams: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh...tlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh...tlink

Spray some WD-40 in that area and see if the idle rises.

[wannabevip_g50]

thanks for the diagrams!!! i will try that today....also, i am going to try to attempt to drain my power steering reservoir (to release any trapped air) and refill it while replacing the p/s reservoir hose as well because it is very wet with fluid (im assuming the hose is old and crusty and the pump doesn't need to be changed).....but i dont know how to go about doing this....and ive done all the searching i can but havent found anything helpful enough to tell me how to go about draining and refilling the p/s reservoir including changing the p/s reservoir hose to a new one.....

[masoQist]

If you are going to do your own repair work on your Q45, then there are two resources that you will not get very far without -

1) Factory Service Manual (FSM)2) Nissan parts catalog program (FAST)

The manual for your car can be viewed online:http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1994_Q45/

Look under "Bleeding Hydraulic System", section ST-6

If you don't have the FAST program installed on your computer yet, try this web based version:

http://solingmoto.ru/epc/nissa...86F3D

Be patient, as it will take you awhile to become acclimated to finding stuff in either the FSM or FAST.

Regarding replacing the p/s reservoir hose - like most hoses on this car, this is a special formed hose. The hose is a specific shape in order to be routed around components in the crowded engine compartment. I don't think you could replace it with a generic cut-to-length hose. Also, the hose has heat shielding so that it does not get cooked by the exhaust manifold.

Due to the huge number of special parts like this, and Nissan's parts pricing, you will quickly learn that this car has a bottomless appetite for your money!

[Q45tech]

After you spend the $3,000 initially just be prepared for $2,500 per year and every year thereafter. {LABOR and Parts are roughly equal say 10-12 hours per year in professional labor}.

Which is dirt cheap for a foreign V8 used lux car, you could have bought an Audi V8 or BMW V8 or MB V8.

I already am preparing my 2011 list as the 2010 is full and parts are already assigned to the 90 day intervals.

The absolute worst year I ever had was in 1999 when $7,000 was spent but I drove 37,000 miles + in that year and really beat up things. Still less than 19 cents per mile driven!

After multiple years it usually drops to 15 cents per mile on average

[maxnix]

paul wall....which repairs would you say to start off with first?????

An inspection by a senior Infiniti technician could easily determine that.

A vhicle of unknown prvenance is always treated to fresh fluids and filters for a baseline. All rubber components should be inspected for cracks. Pulley bearings a examined when accessory drive blets are replaced. Don't ignore cracks in cooling fan.