Serious Brake Bleeding Problems!!!

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natedog437
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:30 pm

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Tonight I got into the project of re-doing all of my break components except for the calipers. I took the cap off of the BMC, then I moved on to remove the calipers, pads, and rotors from the car. I let every bit of the break fluid drain out from all of the break lines connected to the back of the calipers. I painted my calipers, put cross-drilled rotors on, then put my calipers and pads back on the car and hooked them back up. I reset the calipers off the car right before I painted them. I then proceeded to bleed the lines in the proper manner beggining from passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front, and then did the Master cylinder a couple of times. I swear I did this to each side about 6 times and then went back through and did it 3 more times all around the car. I still have anywhere near the tension I should on the break pedal! What am I doing wrong. I have one friend making sure the BMC isn't ever empty, I have someone pump the break and hold it down, then I bleed from the caliper, close the bleeder than tell them to let off and pump somemore. What is going on? Will the air work itself out overnight. should I push the calipers all the way out and then reset them while they are on the car? What am I doing wrong? Please help!


natedog437
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:30 pm

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Oh yeah, and I do not have ABS

s13sr20chris
Posts: 4148
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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it can take a long time after a complete dry spell like that. try putting some clear plastic tubing over the bleeders so you can see if air is coming out or not. another thing is that it helps to pump the pedal a few times then bleed while holding the pedal.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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Another good trick is to use the clear plastic hose Chris mentioned and use a bottle of brake fluid with enough in it to dunk the other end of the hose into. Then with it like this open the bleeder and have your pumper just start pumping the brake till you see nothing but a steady stream of fluid in the hose.[no air bubbles.] make sure you do not pull the other end of the hose out of the fluid in the bottle though or it will suck air back in. The pumper should have a bungy cord hooked on to the brake pedal and the other end on the steering wheel. This will help pull the pedal back up after every push. Also make sure the master does not go dry during this process.

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Touchdown038
Posts: 1928
Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: Computers, cars, sports
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Did you reinstall the calipers with the bleeder screw on top, not bottom? (I think it's possible)

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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hes right, they are left and right, the only difference between the 2 is the location of the bleeder screw.

s13sr20chris
Posts: 4148
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
Contact:

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done it(raises hand).

dont feel bad if thats the case.

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Touchdown038
Posts: 1928
Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: Computers, cars, sports
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Me too... well my buddy and I did it. We were replacing both front calipers on his Ford F250 and we didn't think it would matter which direction the bleeder screw was.... big mistake it turns out. We ended up taking it to a shop, who had a quick laugh and then fixed it almost no charge.


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