Sentra SE-R Shift points.

[Pandaexpress]

Yo, I was just wondering if anyone knew what the shift points are for a Sentra SE-R (2000 and up).

-Panda

[spec_v_girl]

What exactly do you mean by shift points? Like what rpm everybody shifts at?

[nametakennow]

Your owner's manual has a recommended mph at which to shift.

Honestly, shift at whatever rpm you want, but lower rpms (say, under 2500 and at low to medium throttle) when the car is cold.

If your concern is gas mileage, keeping your gas foot light is the key.

A good thought is that when the rate of gain in rpm (ie - acceleration of the car) starts to lessen with the chosen throttle position, it's time to shift... if that makes sense.

[spec_v_girl]

Downshift at redline and you'll be fine.... J/K!

I shift between 2500 and 3000 when I'm just driving around normally. In fact, the only times I go higher than that is when I'm getting on the highway or racing. And I think I get pretty good gas mileage. I'd say just find whatever is comfortable for you... when I first got my Spec I shifted at 4000 because it was the first manual I ever drove... but after a few months I got to the point I hated going above 3000.

[Pandaexpress]

No I'm Sorry I did mean when you want to get the car moving. (i.e. Racing or just seeing how fast she can go)

-PANDA

[nametakennow]

Depending on modifications, the QR25 runs out of breath up top. Thus, 6k is probably about as far as you need to go if you're looking to keep inside the powerband, but taking it all the way out really doesn't hurt either. Not having an SE-R, I can't say exactly, but I suspect an SE-R owner will chime in.

[spec_v_girl]

I'm still confused by exactly what you're asking... but if you're referring to when the SE-R is in the "powerband," I would say anywhere above 3000. So as long as your next gear will land at or above 3000, you should be fine, if you want power in the next gear. When I race I take every gear to about 6200 before I shift.

Umm... yep.

[RED_DET]

He is asking what are the best shift points if one were at the track. In my car the best shift point are suppose to be around 7200rpm, although it doesn't hit the rev limiter until 7950. In the roller rocker sr, I would say the best shift points are around 6700. The specV, around 6000.

[spec_v_girl]

Ah, yeah... that could by why I posted "when I race" on my post above yours, where I said I shift about 6200rpm when I AM RACING. And really, I don't care what you shift your SR20 at

"The Spec V does not exist. The QR25 is a Russian satellite orbiting the Earth!!!"

[RED_DET]

Don't hate because your qr would blow up with a 1/3 of the horsepower the sr can dish out.

[spec_v_girl]

I just prefer not to be a SR20 Fanboi (girl) like everyone else in the Nissan community.

[nametakennow]

RED's just giving you a hard time.

Though, in this case, it's only an exaggeration of actual fact (face it, QRs need more help even than RR SRs to hold up to boost).

[RED_DET]

The tried and true always prevail. I own a spec and the motor is garbage. Burns oil like its going out of style and it's female driven. Engine has 43k miles and the transmission was replaced with 10k on it, I guess the motor might be next. By far the worse nissan I have owned and all the other nissans I had were powered by SR's, except the G35. Like I have said time and time again, we nissan quit making the classic se-r, they should have stopped there, because its been on a downward spiral since. 200sx was decent, but the lowport design wasn't well liked. Then the b15 se with its roller rocker motor and now lets completely redesign the drivetrain with the QR, that will blowup with more than 7-8lbs of boost on a t3/t4 setup. Unless the motor is completely rebuilt. Hell it will blowup without boost, oil consumption will be the demise.

[gurov]

haha, you're funny. very funny. like, ****ing hillarious in a non-specv-driving way funny. a real sr fanboy.

so you say qr will blow up with 7-8 pounds ? i run 12 pounds on mine, and have been running 12 pounds for about 40k miles. it's stock internals too, mind you.

http://myspecv.com/v/many-pulls.wmv - i must've blown my engine up many times in that video.

maybe it's because i ACTUALLY know what the hell i'm doing when tuning a motor, unlike a majority of the people that tend to run their motors

this is my daily driver, never left me stranded, i've driven it to car shows 1500 miles away on the highway, i get close to the gas mileage an NA specv gets.

naturally, nevermind the fact that the QR head flows very well, and nevermind the fact that people can get more power out of a specv with a PTI/SSR/FI-R turbokit than you have listed in your sig with crapload of mods.

also, nevermind the sqr monster, or the vq swaps into sentras.

go ahead and be sheep with the sr, you can be different with that, just like everyone else.

oh yeah, i forgot, the QR25DE does not exist, the specv is a russian weather satellite orbiting the moon.

[spec_v_girl]

it's female driven.

And.... ??

If you have a point you should make it. Last time I recalled my Spec V was female driven and raced.

Let's see... 36K miles, 17K of that being mostly racing. I beat on that car, I race it nearly every weekend. Not a single problem. This is with CAI, header, complete exhaust head back, pulley, balance shaft removal, SAFC (properly tuned mind you, on the street), ZT-2, intake gasket, motor mount inserts, advanced timing, raised idle, grounding wires... among other non-performance related items. I must be doing something right, or my car really doesn't exist because all Spec Vs suck ***.

I guess it still doesn't matter, everyone in this "Nissan community" will always think that the SR20 is fastAR.

[Trav4011]

The tried and true always prevail. I own a spec and the motor is garbage. Burns oil like its going out of style and it's female driven. Engine has 43k miles and the transmission was replaced with 10k on it, I guess the motor might be next. By far the worse nissan I have owned and all the other nissans I had were powered by SR's, except the G35. Like I have said time and time again, we nissan quit making the classic se-r, they should have stopped there, because its been on a downward spiral since. 200sx was decent, but the lowport design wasn't well liked. Then the b15 se with its roller rocker motor and now lets completely redesign the drivetrain with the QR, that will blowup with more than 7-8lbs of boost on a t3/t4 setup. Unless the motor is completely rebuilt. Hell it will blowup without boost, oil consumption will be the demise.

That's a pretty ridiculous statement.. I know of maybe 3 QR's that have blown up, boosted. They are very reliable at 300whp/280wtq or 8-9psi with any of the available turbo systems on the market. The QR's design is lightyears ahead of the SR in terms of block and head layout. The cylinder head flows better than a SR20VE head, and the block is die cast, which is much stronger. Also, the bed-plate (split bock) layout, is WAY stronger and more rigid than the SR's main cap/girdle structure. The early engines did have oil consumption issues because of a very hard piston ring design, and the crazy rod/stroke ratio. However, most of those issues have been fixed, and reliability has gone way up. In built form, NO SR, shy of a built up turbo VVL will touch the QR's powerband.

Travis
Modified by Trav4011 at 11:20 PM 5/31/2006

[RED_DET]

Quit taken everything to heart. I'm simply saying that my wife drives the car conservatively. It's not raced, beaten on, probably shifted at 3k rpm's. Now if it burns oil with her driving in those conditions, imagine if it were to see any kind of abuse. My 13 yr old SR doesn't have any problems. My point is simply this from experience of having a SpecV. You obviously don't have any of those issues and should be glad, I'm frustrated to no end with basically a brand new car that consumes oil, which should never happen.

[RED_DET]

What size turbo you running? T3/T4, I want to see you slam 15, 20lbs of boost through your stock QR and see what happens.

What crap load of mods do I have? Stock U12 motor, Small T28 GTiR Turbo, obviously some injectors are a must, Down Pipe & exhaust, intercooler and some way to tune it all. That seems like a whole lot of mods to me, since when, your turbo car doesn't have those existing mods? I thought so and many many more from the list I read. What does your car dyno? What kind of track times? You want to jump in here and be the man, then lets hear it all. My setup can yield 320whp with addition of cams on 18lbs of boost and run reliable at 300+whp all day long and the engine, without modification, can still take more than that, but the turbo is now the weak point. I can go on with a list of built SR's, just as you can SQR's and VQ's. Kinda funny you mention the SQR, wonder where it got its crank from?

By the way, welcome to NICO. Maybe you should grace us more often with you great knowledge of tuning QR's.

p.s.If I spend 4-5K on a turbo kit and could only produce 300whp reliably, I would shoot myself.

[RED_DET]

You say 300whp reliable on 8-9lbs. When does it become unreliable? You telling me the NA SR, 9:5:1 motor isn't just as reliable at that amount of horsepower? I say and know otherwise, friend of mine lives around the way has been running his SR20DE, with T3/T4 setup for 4yrs, daily driven, it has seen anywhere from 10-20lbs of boost. The QR going to take that kind of abuse in stock form? No, so how is my statement ridiculous.

[RED_DET]

p.s.

We can talk about stroking out the sr as well and lets see how comparable the two are. Stock SR's can make over 400whp, GTiR sr's can make even more. I believe someone last year on sr20forum made 500whp on a stock GTiR motor, all mods were cams.

Sarah Forst made 448whp on stock bluebird with c1 cams, F max turbo kit and o2 induction manifold.

Let's not forget Manny making 503whp on his VE-T setup, which could have taken on more boost and was at 24lbs on that pull.

Why are we really comparing those numbers for, anything above 350whp on a FWD car that only weighs 2500-2700lbs is just plain stupid to try and drive on the street. I can destroy the tires in 1st, 2nd and give me a cool night, 3rd wants to spin at 70mph.

http://www.myweb.cableone.net/...1.wmvThis is fast enough for me.

[gurov]

w00t, i must've found your g-spot man, that was a massive eruption. i'm not the one taking things to heart here. above 300 whp is fine on the highway.

my turbo is a t3/t4 57 trim, .60 comp/.63 exh stage 3 turbine

[robbie2883]

Why are we really comparing those numbers for, anything above 350whp on a FWD car that only weighs 2500-2700lbs is just plain stupid to try and drive on the street. I can destroy the tires in 1st, 2nd and give me a cool night, 3rd wants to spin at 70mph.

that's funny....my wife and i drive a 400+ whp Spec every day with no problems....amazing what proper boost control can do!

[spec_v_girl]

Ssshhhh... don't argue with RED DET... he knows everything about Spec Vs and how they handle under boost, seeing as he owns one with CAI and MMI.

[robbie2883]

LMAO.....my little finger has more knowledge about the QR25DE then his whole family tree

[RED_DET]

Glad you really answered my question. What kind of power is that mighty Spec putting out? What kind of times you run in the 1/8, 1/4? Scared to post the info, then say so.

[RED_DET]

Kinda funny you signed up just to post that you have a 400hp Spec, like I could care less. To bad its not a stock block.

[RED_DET]

Glad you are such a genius, never said I knew all about the junky *** QR, but I do know about the SR and its capabilities, that have been proven time and time again.

[robbie2883]

how about a little video proof instead to shut you up...this was 12 psi....i'm on 20 now

http://www.restylersinc.com/robbie2883/saleen1.wmv

[RED_DET]

Why would I shut up. Because you built a QR, street race and make videos, wooptie ****ing do, you want a cookie now. I'm never going to shut up, you don't like my opinions, I particular don't care. You can always go back over to the vboard or wherever it is you perform your trolling the most. You signed up here only for controversy.

By the way, maybe you should read my posts again. I never once said a built QR couldn't withstand boost. Why didn't you try making that power on your stock block? Because you can't, not that you didnt' want to. SR20DE compared to QR25DE, which one is more reliable making the most horsepower without every crack the motor open? I say SR until proven otherwise. Because I don't see any QR making 400whp without a build up. Now if I'm wrong, prove it.

Since you obviously like to race, you ever taken your car to a track?

[robbie2883]

when did i say anything about the stock block or even argue with you about what the stock block can hold reliably? i didn't ]...anyway....i'm working on a decent tune then i'll be hitting the 1/4 mile....the nearest one to me is 3 hours away....i have hit the 1/8 mile once and didn't do too great...on street tires i ran a 2.0 60" and 8.8 ET at 83.18 mph......that was with 6 psi in 1st, 10 in 2nd and 14 psi in 3rd and 4th and still had a little bog......