Self rim restoration - BBS 3 piece mesh rims

[Bosrudorfer]

Bought them recently and they are perfect except for some cosmetic problems. There are no bents, cracks, or even scratches but the finish has problems.

The rivet bolts (34 around 1 rim) have rust on them, some more than others. So I took them all out and have used 00 Very Fine steel wool to take off the rust. I have finished 1 rims (34 of them) and they look great and like new. My 1st question would be, what should I use to protect them now? They have the chrome/aluminum finish but I most likely took off the clear cost when I used the steel wool. I need something to spray on to protect from future rust. Any recommendations?

UPDATE: BTW I bought some spray on clear coat for the rivet bolts yesterday, zerothread?id=159288, and it works great! You should try that brand, gave the rivets a dark rich tone.

The mesh themselves are fine along with the center caps however the lip of the rims have problems underneath the clear coat. The shop I bought them from will help me fix that (more like show me) I'll use spray on paint striper to remove the clear coat then Mothers Aluminum and Mag Polish. This will clean the lips up but there will be no clear coat. He told me all I have to do is apply that stuff 2-3 times a year and it will be fine however I want to use some protective. Any recommendations?

UPDATE: Used 600, and 400, and 1000 grit waterwet sandpaper to clean the lips, then used Mothers Polish Brush (recently released) and attached to my hand powered drill to polish the lips with the Mothers Aluminum and Mag Polish. Results can be seen at the bottom of the thread in the picture.

Thanks!
Modified by Bosrudorfer at 9:54 PM 2/18/2006

[elwesso]

What you should do, IMO is get them taken care of how you want them, and then take them to a paint shop and have them clear coated. If theyre already prepped, they shouldnt charge much

[Bosrudorfer]

What you should do, IMO is get them taken care of how you want them, and then take them to a paint shop and have them clear coated. If theyre already prepped, they shouldnt charge much

Thanks for the reply! I did a search and read up on this and most recommend just keeping it polish aliumium without clear coat (putting on by ones self) which I might keep. Or pay a shop to clear coat the lips, anyhow I might do a full restore in a year or two if they last that long.

Could you recommend anything for the rivet bolts? overnight 2 or 3 of them started to (what seems like) build up rust in the circle hole (dips) at the top. They must have had water on them after I cleaned them up.... crap

[ytboy4ever]

I restored some 3 piece work ewings and I did most of the work myself. I had the same problems as you mostly with removing the clear coat/ protective coat on parts of the wheels. The biggest thing on my wheels were the bolts, I didn't want to replace them because they were authentic Work bolts. I hand polsihed (with a dremel) each bolt (32 per wheel) and didn't respray them with clear coat. I'm f'ed now because I'm not going to take the wheels apart just to redo the bolts but some of them have re-rusted. I will probably try to redo them while the wheel is still together.

Good luck and definately make sure to get everything re-coated.

[Bosrudorfer]

I restored some 3 piece work ewings and I did most of the work myself. I had the same problems as you mostly with removing the clear coat/ protective coat on parts of the wheels. The biggest thing on my wheels were the bolts, I didn't want to replace them because they were authentic Work bolts. I hand polsihed (with a dremel) each bolt (32 per wheel) and didn't respray them with clear coat. I'm f'ed now because I'm not going to take the wheels apart just to redo the bolts but some of them have re-rusted. I will probably try to redo them while the wheel is still together.

Good luck and definately make sure to get everything re-coated.

Yep, exact same situation. Can I ask you something, how did you remove the rust junk on the lips (under the rivet bolts) did you hand use steel wool or something? It takes forever and I need something faster to not hurt the aluimium.
Modified by Bosrudorfer at 12:27 PM 2/16/2006

[ytboy4ever]

I used a dremel tool with a wire brush attachment. I don't remember exactly which attachment but it was a softer wire brush, I tried a bunch of differen't things and found the one that worked the best.

[Bosrudorfer]

I used a dremel tool with a wire brush attachment. I don't remember exactly which attachment but it was a softer wire brush, I tried a bunch of differen't things and found the one that worked the best.

I'll have to try that. I was able to finish up 1 rim yesterday and polish it but the polish isn't that bright, no mirror like reflection like I've heard numerous people talk about.... I think I'm going to buy a high speed buffer and buff the **** out of them.

BTW I bought some spray on clear coat for the rivet bolts yesterday, zerothread?id=159288, and it works great! You should try that brand, gave the rivets a dark rich tone.

AND finally did you asembly them back yourself or have a shop do it? Any balance problems?
Modified by Bosrudorfer at 11:57 AM 2/17/2006

[ytboy4ever]

I assembled them myself. I haven't had any balance problems, one of the wheels does leak air though. Fortunately it leaks at a very slow rate, I just have to periodically fill it up. It's kind of a nuisance however. It was a pain in the *** assembling them though, I guess I would recommend having someone else do it if you don't mind paying.

I used regular RTV Silicone and tightened them to the correct torque in a star pattern. That's about it.

[gabossie]

I'm working on restoring a set of Blitz Type 01's I just picked up and I was wondering the same thing about the clear coat. Are you planning to spray the entire rim or just stick to the rivet bolts? Also, did you completely dissasemble your rims, as in remove the face from the barrel? I removed all 32 rivets but for the life of me can't get them apart, any pointers?

[Bosrudorfer]

I'm working on restoring a set of Blitz Type 01's I just picked up and I was wondering the same thing about the clear coat. Are you planning to spray the entire rim or just stick to the rivet bolts? Also, did you completely dissasemble your rims, as in remove the face from the barrel? I removed all 32 rivets but for the life of me can't get them apart, any pointers?

I'm only using the clear coat on the rivets so they dont rust back however the lip will look (and will be MUCH easier to mantain) in the polish form without clear coat.

No, I removed the rivet bolts first then the shop where I bought them from took off the lips only. Its really hard to get the lips off, the shop told me to pick them up the next day so I would not see what they had to do LOL (included hammers)

[Bosrudorfer]

I assembled them myself. I haven't had any balance problems, one of the wheels does leak air though. Fortunately it leaks at a very slow rate, I just have to periodically fill it up. It's kind of a nuisance however. It was a pain in the *** assembling them though, I guess I would recommend having someone else do it if you don't mind paying.

I used regular RTV Silicone and tightened them to the correct torque in a star pattern. That's about it.

Yea I'm going to try to find someone to put them back, I figure it would be safer and I'm only 20% done, by the time they are ready to be asselmed I'm going to be dead tired.

[continental_drift]

I'm working on restoring a set of Blitz Type 01's I just picked up and I was wondering the same thing about the clear coat. Are you planning to spray the entire rim or just stick to the rivet bolts? Also, did you completely dissasemble your rims, as in remove the face from the barrel? I removed all 32 rivets but for the life of me can't get them apart, any pointers?

this might be kinda dumb, but look inside of the wheel and make sure theface isn't welded in place. I know some companies make the wheel in 2 or 3 pieces and then weld the face onto the barrell from behind.

you'd still be able to get the rivet bolts out, but the face wouldn't come off.if you've already checked for that, then just disregard.

[gabossie]

Definatly no welding, probably just a silicone sealant that's been sitting for 10 years. I don't think I'm going to bother taking them apart after all, just remove the rivits and polish around the spokes. For the record, I shouldn't have any problems running a 17x9 +22 w/ a 235/45 all around on an S14, or will I need to roll the fenders a little?

[continental_drift]

17x9 +22 w/ a 235/45 all around on an S14

test fit them on the front. I think they'll need a liiitttllle help to fit but itmight be perfect.

[ytboy4ever]

i got mine apart myself, the only thing holding them together was silcone sealant. Not a very fun thing to do and I don't know good it was for the wheels prying at them with large screwdrivers...

[Bosrudorfer]

here is a quick update:

I am almost done, here is a picture of one near done next to the last "original". As you can see they were in bad shape. Lots of rust on the rivet bolts and salt damage on the lips underneath the clearcoat. I hand cleaned each rivet and put back on clearcoat and on the lips removed the clear coat and hand cleaned (sand paper) then polished. Lots of work, the hands are sore like crazy. All that is left is 1 lip that is in the picture and those rivet bolts and then the spokes!

Now deciding what color to paint the spokes: silver or gun metal bronze. I am leaning towards the silver.

[gabossie]

What did you use to remove the clearcoat, just the steel wool? I was considering some sort of paint stripper but I don't want to use something acidic that may etch the alluminum.

[Bosrudorfer]

What did you use to remove the clearcoat, just the steel wool? I was considering some sort of paint stripper but I don't want to use something acidic that may etch the alluminum.

No, it would take you forever to get the clearcoat off by using steel wool or even sandpaper. I used paint stripper and it works great. To be honest I just went and picked one up and guess got luckly since it didnt hurt aluminum at all. I can post the brand after work if you want. And use sandpaper to clean the alumiunum itself, use 400, 600, then 1000 (wet) and then polish with powered if possible. Then by hand, rinse with warm water and your done.

[gabossie]

Please do post the brand when you get a chance, I don't want to take any chances.

[Bosrudorfer]

Hey ytboy4ever how much did it cost you to powdercoat them? I am getting $50-$70 per each rim. Man I should have keep the spokes as they were but being the dumb**** I am I already sanded a rim and started on a second. Now I'm stuck... paint them myself with Dupicolor Rim paint or pay to have them powdercoated.

[jr_ss]

Hey ytboy4ever how much did it cost you to powdercoat them? I am getting $50-$70 per each rim. Man I should have keep the spokes as they were but being the dumb**** I am I already sanded a rim and started on a second. Now I'm stuck... paint them myself with Dupicolor Rim paint or pay to have them powdercoated.

I must say powdercoating them would make them look 10x better than rattle canning them. I plan on doing this to some 18in Work VS-XX's I'm picking up for my car. I want to take them apart, polish the lip, and get the middle bronzed to accent the paint color on my car. Ruby pearl is what my car is sporting and I think it will look astonishing with polished lip and bronze centers.

Question though, on the rivets, are they hex head screws? I've seen plenty of pictures and was hoping someone that had actually messed with them knew exactly what they were. Do you know what torque to set them back at? I imagine it must be a pretty good amount. You plan on using loctite? Thanks for your time.

Glenn

[Bosrudorfer]

I must say powdercoating them would make them look 10x better than rattle canning them. I plan on doing this to some 18in Work VS-XX's I'm picking up for my car. I want to take them apart, polish the lip, and get the middle bronzed to accent the paint color on my car. Ruby pearl is what my car is sporting and I think it will look astonishing with polished lip and bronze centers.

Question though, on the rivets, are they hex head screws? I've seen plenty of pictures and was hoping someone that had actually messed with them knew exactly what they were. Do you know what torque to set them back at? I imagine it must be a pretty good amount. You plan on using loctite? Thanks for your time.

Glenn

For the torque they should have the same amount (5 somethin) which is why I am having a shop do it, $70 for everything and that includes the silcone (not loctite)
Modified by Bosrudorfer at 10:16 AM 2/27/2006

[ytboy4ever]

I paid either $25 or $30 per wheel, I did the majority of the prep work myself. He also supposedly used some metallic in the powder but it doesn't look like he used much. I also got a coat of clear put on too.

[Axel Grungy]

ive heard you should never take apart wheels, to take it to a respectable shop.