Seized caliper

[TDot]

One of my calipers is done according to the dealer. When he removes the top bolt that holds the two parts together he has to use some force to drag/flip it down, while the other side flips down with no issue.
If in fact that means it's seized, is a remanufactured one ok, or should I buy a new one? Any suggestions?

[LouCast]

You can buy a remanufactured one. I bought one from pep-boys came out to 40 bucks or something like that, I replaced and it works fine.

[Larz]

I agree with LouCast. A re-man caliper is one that probably seized and has been repaired so it should last. With the option being up to $300 for a new OEM Vs $50 for a re-man, it's an easy choice.

[TDot]

Ok, I'll check out pep boys. Thanks.

[svard75]

Wait just a bleepin minute! The mechanic said one of your calipers are hard to move down while the other isnt and he wants to replace your caliper?! There are two slider blots which are replaceable themselves that are likely rusted. Replace those and the dust boots not the entire caliper. Actually I've gone through this myself and you can simply clean the slider bolt up and reuse if its not too bad. Mechanics these days are all about quick in/outs and ill bet he wouldnt even replace the caliper. If i heard that i would simply go elsewhere.

[TDot]

Yeah, I questioned him on that...almost exactly, since I really don't know much about this...and asked if he was sure it's not just the bolts themselves maybe too tight, stuck or something. He stated no because there is a specific place on the bolt that it simply stops going in and from there it slides up and down a bit to the caliper movement. Then I asked if it can't be fixed, because I've heard about rebuilding calipers. He said yes then he started talking about redrilling the hole and cleaning it out (paraphrasing). Once he mentioned redrilling I didn't want any parts of that and thought it would be cheaper to get new bolts.
So your saying I can get new bolts without redrilling?

[EniGmA1987]

If a whole new re-manufactured caliper is only $40, why are we even debating it? The new bolts and work alone will be at least the same cost so there is no point in doing it.

[jiggersplat]

If a whole new re-manufactured caliper is only $40, why are we even debating it? The new bolts and work alone will be at least the same cost so there is no point in doing it.

^^^ what this guy said... the new caliper usually will come with new slide also.

[TDot]

The new bolts and work alone will be at least the same cost so there is no point in doing it.

Is there a reason I'd consider paying someone to do the work? Is there something more to it than just swapping it out and greasing them?
I found these bolts (and one by another company for $6.00) and seems like a great deal and I wouldn't have to bleed the calipers if I do it this way. What I'd probably do is take the other caliper bolts and switch them to make sure that's all it is. If that works, then buy these, if not buy the calipers (Of course if I end up having to buy the calipers it will be twice as much work).

Svard, is there something specific to look for on the bolts, or just a matter of rust? And if I don't actually see rust, would that mean don't bother with the bolts and just change the caliper?

The past three months $3000 has gone into the car for my vanity, and I might have to get both catalytic converters, and my girl's birthday is coming up, and I have to take a trip to Canada....$30 is looking like $1,000,000 when it comes to this car right now smh.

[jiggersplat]

The slides are easy if that's really the problem, but if I read correctly, you are not sure if it's the caliper or the slides. It could be that the caliper piston is seized. But by all means, if you're handy and you find the slides for cheap, try that first. It should only take you 15 minutes. It's also possible that the slides are seized so badly you won't be able to get the old ones out <-- ask me how I know.

[svard75]

Listen, the guy is pulling your leg. Take a look at how our calipers are mounted. The slider bolts go into the retaining bracket not the caliper itself so he's telling you nonsense.

If the dust boots were damaged for a long time and water,dirt etc got into the slider area then it's just a matter of clean it out but you don't have to drill anything. Just put the bolt into the bracket see how far it goes then determine how much gunk needs to be removed. I've done it before and actually re-used my old slider pins too. You know the rubber isolator on the top pin? I removed it because it was swollen and I could not get the pin back into the bracket without that rubber isolator sliding down. Still works fine to date.

[TDot]

Ok, I'm going to try that. I found this video and I think it's exactly what you're describing, and the trouble this guy had in flipping the caliper up is the same problem the mechanic had in flipping the caliper down.
http://youtu.be/C3N-aBP0fcs
I'll just use my dremel, and then lube it up. Hopefully it works out for me.

[pedsemdoc]

Sounds like a stuck pin is likely your problem...you'll need to pull some of the old grease out before applying new grease, otherwise the pin will want to keep popping out of the hole and you may end up tearing the rubber boot. So stick your old pin in and out of the hole a few times and try to clean off all the old grease.

One other thing, don't just let your caliper body hang by the brake line like the dude does in the video - it could break or damage your brake line. hang it by some heavy duty twine or wire, or prop it up on a bucket or blocks while you're working on the pads, etc.

Craig

[TDot]

I looks like it was the pin. When I tried to take the bottom pin it took a hell of a time to get it out, I had to hammer it out. Took a good 10-15min of finagling and hammering.

So the pin shouldn't pop out when I push it down? Someone told me it should. The top pin pops up if I push it all the way down, the bottom one (the original seized one) stays down when I push it all the way. It slides with no issue now, it just doesn't pop up like the top one. Which one is doing what it should?

[svard75]

It pops because of the pressure created by the rubber isolator at the tip of the pin. It may be there to help release the caliper once you let go of the. Rake, however I think its more likely due to excessive grease. Did you pump it full of grease then put the pin in? Just put a small amount around the rubber and behind. Make sure you check the dust cover for any cracks.