Ok so I'm gonna run for cover on this one... Making sure the bleeder valve is open is just by taking out the two little screws?Advent_s13 wrote:Get a C-clamp and use that. Those tools used for brakes suck. Your piston is most likely stuck from dirt and grime. Use a C-clamp and push hard and like he said above make sure your bleeder valve is open, otherwise you will push the fluid back into the master.
Well I guess continue to do it your way, and keep scratching your head. You asked everyone how to fix you brakes and we have replied. Maybe you should have just taken it to a professional.NICONick wrote:
Ok so I'm gonna run for cover on this one... Making sure the bleeder valve is open is just by taking out the two little screws?
E-brake being up or down have anything to do with it?
Does $190 sound like a right price for a loaded caliper? The mechanic said it was the clips that were busted causing the caliper to seize or something of that nature. The mechanic is a friend of the family and doesn't even charge for labor so I don't think he would try n swindle me, just checking....elvis240sx wrote:A loaded caliper means it comes with the pads/clips/bracket
Also, do not open the bleeder screw. Just remove the cap from the master cylinder so the brake fluid can go back into the reservoir. This way you can't introduce air into the system.
Is your e-brake currently on? That is why the piston will not screw back in. The piston turns because this is how the e-brake works. It is kind of like a ratchet mechanism.
sounds about right i payed about 160$ a pice for remans from nappy auto parts.NICONick wrote:
Does $190 sound like a right price for a loaded caliper? The mechanic said it was the clips that were busted causing the caliper to seize or something of that nature. The mechanic is a friend of the family and doesn't even charge for labor so I don't think he would try n swindle me, just checking....