Seized caliper?

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NICONick
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Ok so my rear brakes were grinding so I got some new pads and rotors. Only one side was grinding, but I replaced both rotors any way. Anyways, we get everything off, I rented a piston pusher kit from auto zone and we could not get the piston compressed for the life of us.

Does the piston twist or just push in? We were using the tool but it was just pushing the piston, and not turning, does it have to turn to compress?

Any suggestions? Seized caliper? Any hints on pushing in the piston on the rears?


Shabbernigdo
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you did have the bleeder valve open when you were trying to compress the piston right?

also you may wanna check if its your e brake lever thats on the caliper itself that may be binding up and causing the brakes to drag.

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Advent_s13
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Get a C-clamp and use that. Those tools used for brakes suck. Your piston is most likely stuck from dirt and grime. Use a C-clamp and push hard and like he said above make sure your bleeder valve is open, otherwise you will push the fluid back into the master.

And for next time you do this, before you take off the caliper, get a screwdriver and push against the brake pad while it is still on. This will allow you to push the piston back before you take it off and will make it alot easier to compress it in fully when off.

NICONick
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Advent_s13 wrote:Get a C-clamp and use that. Those tools used for brakes suck. Your piston is most likely stuck from dirt and grime. Use a C-clamp and push hard and like he said above make sure your bleeder valve is open, otherwise you will push the fluid back into the master.
Ok so I'm gonna run for cover on this one... Making sure the bleeder valve is open is just by taking out the two little screws?

E-brake being up or down have anything to do with it?

Shabbernigdo
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the bleeder valve is the little screw on the caliper body that has a pointed top with a hole in it. all you have to do is back it out a 1/2 turn and when u apply force to the caliper piston it will allow the break fluid to bleed out and relive the pressure in the caliper.

leave you e break off.

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S13Joe
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The rears turn in, the fronts push in. Get needle nose pliers and turn them in. Also for future reference, theres no reason to rent a piston pusher thing, just use a C clamp.

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Advent_s13
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NICONick wrote:
Ok so I'm gonna run for cover on this one... Making sure the bleeder valve is open is just by taking out the two little screws?

E-brake being up or down have anything to do with it?
Well I guess continue to do it your way, and keep scratching your head. You asked everyone how to fix you brakes and we have replied. Maybe you should have just taken it to a professional.

SR24DET
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OK, Ive work on my brakes alot, but its been a while. If I remeber correctly, the front brakes can compress with a c clamp but the rears have to turn to compress. Take the cover off the brake master cylinder. Then either use a needle nose pliers, or one of those tools at autozone and push into the piston, then rotate. I had a little problem with mine but not too bad. And you dont have to loosen up the bleeder screw.

NICONick
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So, last question. Which way does the piston turn to compress? Same as tighten? Thanks for all the help and, of course, all the sarcastic comments that come with evry post.

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S13Joe
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It turns to the right. You could have just tried it instead of asking...

It should turn fairly easy, maybe not at first but once it starts to move you should be good.

NICONick
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Update: OK, so piston is seized. I took it to a shop that my Dad knows the owner and he is saying something like it's a loaded caliper and that the clips on it are bad and seized or w/e...

I've never heard of a loaded caliper... He wants $190 for just the part... can anyone shed some light on this for me?

Thanks.

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wackawacka
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I JUST did this. Went to replace my rear pads. My passenger side caliper compressed by turning it to the right less than 10 times using simple needle nose pliers stuck in the notches on either side of the piston. My drivers side could have spun 100 times and not compressed one mm. I got a re-manufactured caliper, basically new, from auto zone for like $60 with the core. It was around 120 without core. So I would probably go to auto zone....

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ahagy8720
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I bought a car with both the rear brakes seized up. Took the calipers off and the reason mine were seized was because the pistons had rusted from sitting for a year....



What happens when you buy a car for $200 haha. I cant find the piston anywhere so I'm having to upgrade(not that this is bad.) If you have the money you might want to look into just upgrading them. That or go to an auto place and paying $70 for a new caliper. I don't know much about brakes but $190 sounds a lot for just a clip....

elvis240sx
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A loaded caliper means it comes with the pads/clips/bracket

Also, do not open the bleeder screw. Just remove the cap from the master cylinder so the brake fluid can go back into the reservoir. This way you can't introduce air into the system.

Is your e-brake currently on? That is why the piston will not screw back in. The piston turns because this is how the e-brake works. It is kind of like a ratchet mechanism.

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asoomal
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NICONick
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elvis240sx wrote:A loaded caliper means it comes with the pads/clips/bracket

Also, do not open the bleeder screw. Just remove the cap from the master cylinder so the brake fluid can go back into the reservoir. This way you can't introduce air into the system.

Is your e-brake currently on? That is why the piston will not screw back in. The piston turns because this is how the e-brake works. It is kind of like a ratchet mechanism.
Does $190 sound like a right price for a loaded caliper? The mechanic said it was the clips that were busted causing the caliper to seize or something of that nature. The mechanic is a friend of the family and doesn't even charge for labor so I don't think he would try n swindle me, just checking....

Shabbernigdo
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NICONick wrote:
Does $190 sound like a right price for a loaded caliper? The mechanic said it was the clips that were busted causing the caliper to seize or something of that nature. The mechanic is a friend of the family and doesn't even charge for labor so I don't think he would try n swindle me, just checking....
sounds about right i payed about 160$ a pice for remans from nappy auto parts.

S13ManBoy
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Yea i had the same problem try the c-clamp which i did and it moved to a certain point and stayed seized i just bought a whole used caliper for like 35 bucks

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S13Joe
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Part out section is your friend.


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