Sealing an RB25 oil pan

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
boostin1234
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How and the crap do you get it to seal to the block.

I have pulled my motor 3 times now and used 3 different types of RTV and every time it starts to leak oil within a day of driving it. I even let the RTV cure for over 24hrs before i put oil in the motor.

Any tips

I wish they would just amke a dang gasket for it.


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Coolwhip
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you could make a gasket for it using gasket maker paper.

Or with the proper RTV usually keep black RTV (forget the type) for oil. I usually get a nice caked layer on the pan and hold the pan in place with the bolts (not tight!) let it cure a little then you tighten it up this way its a thick gasket and not squished out when you tighen it up the first time.

Good luck hopefully that makes sense

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fast_s14
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I use permatex ultra black silicone for oil pans. I have used it many times with no problems. They make 2 different kinds of black so make sure it is called ultra black.

boostin1234
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Yup, this lasts time i used Permetex ultra black

started leaking within 10 minutes of driving

Guess ill, pull the freaking motor again and try agaaaaain.

Would making a gasket be better, or is the RTV better?

Adrian gt
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honestly. toyota sealant. nissan makes some too but it's a orange color that looks goofy and i find the toyota stuff seas better

wawazat8402
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Hondabond is some amazing stuff. I recommend it over anything. My hookup at the dealership is no longer there so Im giving the Nissan stuff a shot this time.

boostin1234
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I have a brand new tube of the Nissan orange RTV that came with my engine gasket kit.

I'm just not sure if that is enough to cover the whole pan sealing area. If it looks like it will be enough, i will go for that this week.

Better seal this time.

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Andyb2637
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When you put the gasket sealer do you let it dry for a day?I have had this happen before, i just let the car sit for a day or two to make sure it sets in and dries. Hope it helps!!

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eh?
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Make sure you use high temp RTV. Highest temp rtv is *usually* red or orange. (even the GE industrial brand RTV we use for aircraft engines is red). Also make sure you're not over torquing the bolts and make sure it is actually the rtv and not a front or rear main seal.

boostin1234
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It's defiantly the RTV, the whole motor is brand new, plus you can clearly see where its coming from.

see here is the problem, you say use the orange or red, others say the black, and i have heard use the gray.

I have tried them alll and nothing changes. Still leaks. I have no other option but to try again, but its 2 days worth of work to do it each time, so i figured i would post and see if i could get a definite answer. Guess not.

otis
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i have had trouble with that high temp red rtv sealant too on my previous sr motor. could not get it to stop leaking. does the lip of the oil pan lay flat and flush with the motor? just thought i'd ask. goodluck

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eh?
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boostin1234 wrote:It's defiantly the RTV, the whole motor is brand new, plus you can clearly see where its coming from.

see here is the problem, you say use the orange or red, others say the black, and i have heard use the gray.

I have tried them alll and nothing changes. Still leaks. I have no other option but to try again, but its 2 days worth of work to do it each time, so i figured i would post and see if i could get a definite answer. Guess not.
The oem gasket kit includes red nissan rtv. I've resealed 3 RB25's with the nissan RTV with no leaks . I wouldn't doubt it's composition is any different from the regular red high temp permatex rtv. Honestly I don't think it's an rtv problem.

Bluefire
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Dude any of the sealant above will work... Make sure the pan itself isn't too tweaked and both mating surfaces are clean of oil and old gasket.... most people bend the hell out of the thing trying to get it off, especially if its been taken off as many times as you have. Even though there are 20 some odd bolts holding the pan on, this will not completely correct a warped pan.

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Coolwhip
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I gotta look to find the name of this stuff that they use at Auto events but its a compound that goes onto metal that actually seperates the oil from the metal and allows the proper bonding of the RTV for fast repairs. Moreso, check the flushness of your pan might be out of wack since you been pulling it off so much.

boostin1234
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For the guy that doesn't believe its the RTV, i don't know what to tell you, i know what im talking about and the RTV is not sealing. All the other seals are perfect on the motor. No leaks anywhere else. I promise you its the RTV not sealing.

My pan is not warped i keep checking it, funny thing is, this last time i pulled the pan, it didnt take any effort at all the pull it off after the bolts were out because under the rtv was soaked in oil, it didn't seal at all, so it was not "stuck" to the motor like it should be.

Im thinking it might be a humidity issue with the RTV. It says on the back of the package to not use it over 60% humidity or something like that. I'm in south GA and its been 100% humidity lately. This might be my problem since i am fixing the pan outside in my driveway not letting the RTV cure properly.

skylinegrl13
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wawazat8402 wrote:Hondabond is some amazing stuff. I recommend it over anything.
i second this, the stuff just works, i've never had any problems with it.

l0nestar
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I know you said you checked it before, but did you use a straight-edge to verify that your sealing surface was level on your pan? I have not had any issue with the Permatex Ultra Black. Of course, I razed the surface, then used brake-cleaner (on a lint-free towel) to prep the block surface. Then made sure my pan was straight / clean and repeated using the brake-cleaner + towel. I let them set for about 15 min and applied a moderately thick line of the RTV and tightened / sealed all 30 bolts per the FSM. (and yes, I actually did use my torque wrench, like everything else on my engine.. yeah, I'm a big nerd.) I can go into greater detail if you would like..

Of course, my engine was on a stand up-side down the whole time and I had little humidity at the time.. HTH.

boostin1234
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This last time i only disconnected and pulled the motor out of the mounts juuuust enough to get th pan off and on, and that made it pretty hard, especially applying toe RTV.

Im going to pull the motor qoo% out of the car this weekend and go at it again. I am going to make sure i do the best job i can, hah.

I have checked the pan before and it was good, but what if the sealing surface inst perfectly flat? How would i get it flat again?

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Coolwhip
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I usually use this heavy duty stainless steal table we had at the shop that I would just use a mallet on the pan's lip while it was upside down flat against the table.

If anything or overly out of wack, a new pan is about $120.

guyuenvy
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wawazat8402 wrote:Hondabond is some amazing stuff. I recommend it over anything. My hookup at the dealership is no longer there so Im giving the Nissan stuff a shot this time.
I second that but last dealer i went to said they discontinued hondabond???


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