screwed up a seal job

Post by **spooled240** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:24 pm

well, it's a long story but in short form:I was changing out my clutch, so I disassemble the shifter to remove the transmission yada yada yada.. but then I forgot to tighten that metal cover when I put the trans back in

So I saw that the cover was leaking trans fluid all over the under body, being slung all over the place from the spinning drive shaft, so i thought that i needed to replace the rear trans seal which didn't need replacing yes another slap lol

This is where I seriously fvcked up, when i went to screw the slidehammer end on the seal, I ended up screwing half of it in the aluminum and pulling a chunk of metal along with the seal. This of course left a gouge in the aluminum surface that mates with the seal.

so i got some copper sealant to try and seal the gouge up with the new seal and all..then about a few months later, TODAY, i was coming home from some freeway driving and heard a whine when i would put the car in nuetral. I didn't hear it when i had it in gear but getting it in first without the car rolling was a *****. Came home and my whole underbody was drenched with trans fluid i'm going to look at the rear trans seal and that gouge that's basically draining my trans fluid, so i'm looking for any advice or w/e to help me out with this..maybe jb weld that gouge?? thanks

Post by **Florida240sx** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:29 pm

JB weld or another transmission lol.

Post by **spooled240** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:41 pm

yeah this poor transmission..i unknowingly drove it with gl5 oil in it for a few months so i hope the sychros are not farcked. I'm gonna jb weld this thing first thing in the morning and fill her up with redline mt-90 gl4, i think my only other option is the copper sealant that just failed on me lol

Post by **float_6969** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 8:02 pm

I'd say get a new seal and JB weld the crap out of the outside of the new seal and JB weld it in.

You'll have to give it at least 24hrs IIRC to completely set up and not be effected by the gear oil.

I'll be your syncro's look like poo.

Post by **Florida240sx** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 12:43 am

JB weld and heat gun

Post by **spooled240** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:40 am

well i took out the drive shaft and a little word of advice, don't use too much loctite on bolts, i had to cut 2 of my pumkin/driveshaft bolts off! then when i went to pull the driveshaft, it came out with the seal itself, so i'm pretty sure that was the problem.

only thing about the jb weld plan is that I probably wouldn't be able to take the seal out again. My dad said that permatex would work really well, idk what this stuff is but i'll give it a shot. thanks for the help so far guys..

Post by **float_6969** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:13 pm

IMHO, Permatex > JB Weld

Post by **spooled240** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:57 am

ok thanks, i can't seem to find those replacement bolts that i need-the 4 bolts that connect the drive shaft aka "propellor shaft" to the differential anyone know where i can get these without going to a junkyard?

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:08 pm

Nissan?

Post by **spooled240** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 7:27 pm

smart azz, jki went to h+e and got some generic bolts for the temporary..

well i put it all together using the permatex and filled the transmission full of fresh oil. When I drained the trans, only an eighth of a folger's can came out . Started my car up and my transmission whined like an s.o.b. again. i guess doin 80mph on the freeway (for probably less than an hour maybe 20-30 minutes?) on a dry transmission just smoked the bearings which are whining now when the car is in gear or idling in neutral.Any input on this? I mean how bad do you think my transmission is?

i guess i'll have to make the best of it and tell people that my supercharger's whining lol
Modified by spooled240 at 10:42 PM 11/25/2007

Post by **Florida240sx** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:10 pm

you can get a transmission for 50-75 if not free

Post by **pr240sx** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 5:56 am

If the transmission is ok, do the a good repair, get that hole welded shutRemove the transmission and remove the back housing.Its easier and you can check the transmission internals at the same time.Those epoxy fix jobs can fail at anytime.

Post by **spooled240** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:35 pm

Ok, i cleaned the hell out of the metal surface and the seal with starting fluid and brake cleaner till it was squeaky clean then i applied the permatex on the hole and tapped that seal all the way in. So far its not leaking a drop, but it didn't leak for the first two months last time. I think since i rtv sealed the whole seal in, this acted as a lubricant and the seal didn't want to stay in the transmission, this time i only used a small blob of permatex at the hole but left the seal with direct contact w/ the metal..

thanks guys, Yeah i think my bearings are shot inside, it sounds like a supercharger lol.. i hope i can find a cheap transmission in working condish in the future, but for now i guess i drive it till it drops.

O and I got those bolts + nuts at nissan, about 2.78ish each..BTW, i was looking for gl-4 oil, but i got some oil that met gl-5, gl-4 and gl-3 standards is this OK?

Post by **Zippy69** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:20 pm

Hey Spooled, sorry to hear about your transmission. I hope you can get one soon.Have you checked on bearings for it? If you do decide to rebuild it, make sure to check your gears real good. All that heat build up can stress them and make them brittle and that would suck. I have a transmission in my shop from a dump truck that ran without fluid and the guy put in a couple of bearings and filled it up with fluid. He said he made it about 10 miles before he heard a boom and felt like he ran over something big. The counter-shaft main gear exploded and blew out the back of the housing. I can weld up the housing for him, but it is gonna cost him $1800 in parts to fix it.( but a new transmission would cost him $3500.Good luck homie

Post by **spooled240** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:03 pm

o man, you're making me nervous lol like florida said, they're pretty cheap so i might just get a new one then maybe rebuild the original in the future since i probably couldn't get 10 cents for it..but yeah thanks for the heads up

Just tonight i was going to pick my bro up and i couldn't get that mofo in 1st! I don't think the clutch was disengaging so i bled the system at the slave cylinder, no bubbles came out but i bled a good amount of oil. when i tried it again, it went into first like normal..its probably bad karma, this transmission's been kicked and dropped when i did the clutch, and now it ran out of oil. Damn, i though my transmission would have lasted longer than my ka-T

Post by **Zippy69** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:47 pm

You can make the claim that you build a turbo set up so good that it will outlast the transmission!!! If it were me I'd probably buy another transmission and forget that one. I mean it's got case damage and smoked internals, and all that = potential problems later.

Post by **spooled240** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:09 am

haha, yeah making too much power here jkthe housing's fine no cracks just some scrapes here and there i'd probably still keep it..

I'm thinking either my slave cylinder or my master cylinder is bad..is there a way to check if one or the either needs replacing? I don't wanna replace both

Post by **pr240sx** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 5:00 am

To help your transmission search quest

Remember that z31 NON turbo cars also have your transmission. Just change the bellhousing and done.

Note the word "your" I just sold my beloved 240 in favor of a newer car.

Post by **spooled240** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:37 am

o yeah? what'd you get? thanks, i've also heard the same on some Z forum and i also heard that they are not too expensive to rebuild.

I bled the hell out of my clutch line cuz the pedal is feeling kinda "mushy" but it still feels the same. I also pulled the little rubber boot off the slave cylinder and it was dry as a bone-no leaks whatsoever. Maybe I need a new master cylinder? They are only like 90 bucks from CourtesyNissan

Post by **pr240sx** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:37 pm

I am going to be "out of service" until probably march.I having left knee surgery. Why I had t sell my 240... doctor orders, "no more manual transmission for you mister...so get your car and sell it"Lets see.....I am aiming my goals to an Altima coupe or probably G35/37.....lets see how I handle the procedure.Back on trackCheck this linkhttp://z31.com/transmission.shtml

Dont tell anyone....there is plenty of these cars around and not too many people knows this!! sshh!! :hide

Post by **spooled240** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 1:47 pm

thanks a lot bro, just make sure you stick to the nissan clan rwd clan! lol

Post by **Florida240sx** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:27 pm

Trannies are cheap I got 2 in my shed.

Post by **Jager** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:16 pm

if the seal fails on you there is an industrial loctite ferrite epoxy made for high compression jobs, its expensive as hell, but it will hold up to about 30k rpm or so. im using it to patch a keyway on a crankshaft, but i can get you the part number if you need it. it ran me 65 bucks for a lb.

Post by **Florida240sx** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:54 pm

I used some high heat temp repair. 2 part that you mend together with your hand. To repair a turbo manifold. Manifold weld broke next to the turbo flange leaving a 1/4" hole. It's been holding up for over a year now.Just remember when drivng your Racecar it's still a racecaR even if it's spelt backwards.

Post by **spooled240** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 8:04 am

^^ lol never saw it like that haha.. well it aitn't leaking a drop so far.

I think the mistake i made last time was that i used rtv sealant all around the seal so it acted as a lubricant against the metal.

this time it's just the way its supposed to go in-rubber on metal that's it with a tiny blob of permatex on that gouge. I think it's gonna be fine this time but thanks for all the help guys!If it f***'s up on me again then i'll let u guys know/warn you guys again lol

Post by **Zippy69** » Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:07 am

Glad to hear you got it straight! I think your right about th rtv, it doesn't make a good seal against a moving object. Hopefully you won't have any more problems with it. Good luck!

Post by **spooled240** » Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:35 am

thanks a lot man

screwed up a seal job

screwed up a seal job

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