SAFC Tune - Think I got less than what I paid for???

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saejin
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:13 am

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Here's what I got.98 240SX, Enthalpy ECU, 750cc RC Injectors, Greddy Fuel Rail, FMIC, Greddy Turbo Kit, SAFC II, Greddy Boost Controller

I went to a local tuner and had them do a SAFC tune for my 98 240SX. I just got the car from Arizona and I'm in Colorado. With the change in altitude I was probably running a little lean. Also, the car has an bad idle when it's cold, floods evertime I turn it off, and backfires occasionally.Paid $250 for the tune and it took a little over an hour. Did about three full dyno pulls.

After all was said and done, I pulled 350whp on the dyno. AFR's were looking good according to them.12-13 prior to boost and then 10 when boost hits.They said they couldn't do anything about the backfiring or flooding when starting.

Not wanting to be left in the dark, I decided to do some research here and on some other forums. I've pretty much figured out now how to tune the SAFC now, so I looked up the settings that were done to mine and I'm a little surprised at what I saw.First of all, the backfiring and possibly the flooding may be corrected by the Dec Air settings in the SAFC. I haven't played with them yet, I'm waiting for my wideband to arrive.

Here are the settings I have:Throttle Hi - 80% Lo - 0%Nexx RPM Hi LoNe01 1000 10 0Ne02 1600 10 9Ne03 2200 14 9Ne04 2600 18 9Ne05 2800 20 9Ne06 3400 14 6Ne07 4000 14 6Ne08 4600 14 6Ne09 5200 11 6Ne10 6400 11 6Ne11 7000 11 6Ne12 7600 11 6

Dec AirThr - .8NE1 - .9Ne2 - 1.3

Well, according to what I've read, the corrections settings are interpolated between your Lo and Hi Throttle Settings and kept constant for anything above your Hi or below your Lo. In my case, I have a 0% Lo and 80% Hi. So every throttle positions in between 0-80 is interpolated. I did up a chart so I can fine tune later.

Here are my questions/problems.- I'm running super rich at low throttle/rpm. My last tank of gas gave me 150 miles. I typically don't hit boost all the time, my car is a daily driver. I keep my foot light on the throttle.- I'm backfiring in between shifts and still flooding. Flooding happens when I turn the car off and try to start it back up. I built a fuel kill switch so I don't have to disconnect the injectors to clear the flood all the time.- Why didn't the tuner adjust the Throttle setting? Why is it a 0% / 80%?- I asked them about Dec Air settings and got a weird response like it was something they knew about, but never really adjusted.- I believe the tuner only adjusted the hi settings. I'm not sure if he even looked at the lo settings or the throttle points. At 80%, I'd have to have it floored to get those correction factors. The only time I would floor it is at a drag strip. I typically modulate the throttle in between 50% and 80% when I'm on boost. It doesn't take much throttle to get my car to literally shoot like a rocket.

I plan on installing my AEM wideband next week and then tweak the SAFC Settings.I'm going to adjust the Throttle setting to 30% lo and 50% hi. I'm also going to turn down the lo correction numbers so I'm not running so rich when cruising around.

I'd appreciate any feedback that you all have. This is my first 240, but I've been modding cars for awhile now. It's typically bolt on stuff with Audis, but I'm wanting to get more familiar with engine management.

thanks,Gene


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DevilMB3017
Posts: 1639
Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:25 am

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Sounds to me like they tuned for max. performance and not street driving.

I've seen it happen to couple friends of mine and they have gone back and gotten it retuned for a discount usually or just went other places...

saejin
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:13 am

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Maybe so. They all freaked out when the car posted 350whp on their dyno. I guess they didn't think the 240 could hit that mark.

Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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Your high should be like 60% and low be 30%or 60/40 which mine is.What psi are you running? Because the car needs to be 11.5-12 under boost 14-14.7 at idle and cruising around 13ish under light load

saejin
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:13 am

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I'm at 18psi for max boost. Boost comes online at around 3000rpm and then goes up from there.

I don't know the exact AFR's. They were recorded during the dyno, but I only saw a quick shot of the screen. They gave me the dyno sheet, but it didn't list the AFR plot, only the hp and torque. I've emailed them several times wanting the data, but no replies from either the shop or the tuner. I'm going to give them a call next week. I really want that data.


Alsontime
Posts: 140
Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 6:29 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Convertible
Location: North Carolina

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What MAF are you using saejin?

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480sx
Posts: 4085
Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 5:27 pm
Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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If you recirculate your BOV most of your daily driving problems will go away.

In my experience with tuning my brothers SR with SAFC2, high throttle is really damn easy. Its the low throttle that takes time.

Florida's right though, adjust your high/low to something thats easier to manage.

Thats alot of boost man, do you have anything to control your timing? Or do you have your base timing retarded? What about your bottom end? What turbo are you running?

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
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480sx wrote:If you recirculate your BOV most of your daily driving problems will go away.
Couldn't have said it better myself

Along with that, I honestly say you should throw that SAFC in the brush, and go over your setup. Is your car in proper time? Do you have a vacuum leak? Enthalpy ECU's are tuned to work correclty out of the box, and 9/10 when people safc them, it ends up making more headache than it's worth.

And you use a MAF car. It measures metered air/how quickly the filament cools off. Less dense air could potentially run your car leaner, but I can't see it being anything to worry about.

saejin
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:13 am

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The Enthalpy ECU has timing modifications.

Tried recirc, couldn't get it to work. I need to weld a bigger inlet on my intake for the air the BOV vents off. Right now it's only 1/2inch in diameter.

I agree, the SAFC needs to go in the trash, or better yet on ebay.

Running a Z32 MAF and Greddy TD06-20G turbo.

Bottom end is stock. Head is built by tophat with crower valves/springs.

Enthalpy is sending me a retune to correct another issue. When I get it I'm ditching the SAFC and going to correct my fuel issues using the FPR. If I'm running lean, increase the fuel pressure. If I'm rich, lower it. If it's all over the place, let Enthalpy know and they'll help me figure it out.


codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
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If Enthalpy tunes it to XX.X psi, that's where you need to leave your fuel pressure.


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