S15 T28 vs Disco Potato...which one and why? other suggestions welcome :)
Alright, so you don't really just want a car that runs a 12.99 quarter mile then. A .48 a/r t3 turbine side will hurt the top end just like t25 turbines will. You can try the GTiR route like me if you want. .86 a/r hot side; if you switch the t3 compressor housing with a t04b from an s15 turbo and I think that'd be a sick setup.
Sorry if I seem so opposed to the t3, but it seems like you can get what you want for less money and less effort.
Sorry if I seem so opposed to the t3, but it seems like you can get what you want for less money and less effort.
From what I've read
and the only one who's ever tested anything with multiple turbos Boost_boy seems to think the .48 exhaust + .60 a/r t3/04b combo would be the best having boost start around 3200-3300rpm (less with ballbearing) and holding strong til about 8000 rpm and have really nice top end...
I haven't seen a T2 turbo that can do that...yet...
So the turbine isn't a .48 but a .60...and being already a lager wheel it can flow more air than a T2x setup would...
although yes this set up would probally cost more, but it would probally get me good spool and good top end all in one package.
I'm willing to look for new ideas, however I'm not one who wants to be the first to try them, not until I graduate from university anyways...
I'm looking to follow a proven track, that way I know my money will be well spent.
and the only one who's ever tested anything with multiple turbos Boost_boy seems to think the .48 exhaust + .60 a/r t3/04b combo would be the best having boost start around 3200-3300rpm (less with ballbearing) and holding strong til about 8000 rpm and have really nice top end...
I haven't seen a T2 turbo that can do that...yet...
So the turbine isn't a .48 but a .60...and being already a lager wheel it can flow more air than a T2x setup would...
although yes this set up would probally cost more, but it would probally get me good spool and good top end all in one package.
I'm willing to look for new ideas, however I'm not one who wants to be the first to try them, not until I graduate from university anyways...
I'm looking to follow a proven track, that way I know my money will be well spent.
I said early in this post that folks will try to "water down" the FP big28 performance capabilities.... and here you have just one more example
>>"Yet it is really a turbo only suited for drag racing/cheap bolt-on street turbo in my opinion"
What idiot would choose that turbo for drag racing ? A turbo that "stinks" at high rpm ?? ...and that makes sense to you ?Cheap it is, yes and only folks who would have problem with that are those who subscribe to the "u gotta pay 2 play" mentality. Rubbish, you don't. I come from a world of 10sec full wt GNs that ran $700 internally gated turbos.... sell the fancy $$tuff to someone who "thinks" they need it.Do you want a dam good street turbo that pulls strong thru the gears, and 'just happens' to back it up with impressive ETs ? You think a car that traps 12Xmph (with issues) dies on the top end ?
Tell you what. Choose that $12-1400 turbo with its "wonderful" efficiency at high rpms, and I bet the big28 will spank it - street or strip. It won't full boost at 3000 and pull to 8k either.1. Bolt that to your 14 year old ca18. 2. Scream it to redline in every gear just to make the turbo shine. 3. Save money for spare motors.
You can stick to reading maps and charts if you wanna write a paper on your car. You wanna go fast ? COPY a sucessful setup. No need to experiment, since you have hundreds of sr swaps with all sortsa T2s. Hit up a meet. Get u some test rides man.later
>>"Yet it is really a turbo only suited for drag racing/cheap bolt-on street turbo in my opinion"
What idiot would choose that turbo for drag racing ? A turbo that "stinks" at high rpm ?? ...and that makes sense to you ?Cheap it is, yes and only folks who would have problem with that are those who subscribe to the "u gotta pay 2 play" mentality. Rubbish, you don't. I come from a world of 10sec full wt GNs that ran $700 internally gated turbos.... sell the fancy $$tuff to someone who "thinks" they need it.Do you want a dam good street turbo that pulls strong thru the gears, and 'just happens' to back it up with impressive ETs ? You think a car that traps 12Xmph (with issues) dies on the top end ?
Tell you what. Choose that $12-1400 turbo with its "wonderful" efficiency at high rpms, and I bet the big28 will spank it - street or strip. It won't full boost at 3000 and pull to 8k either.1. Bolt that to your 14 year old ca18. 2. Scream it to redline in every gear just to make the turbo shine. 3. Save money for spare motors.
You can stick to reading maps and charts if you wanna write a paper on your car. You wanna go fast ? COPY a sucessful setup. No need to experiment, since you have hundreds of sr swaps with all sortsa T2s. Hit up a meet. Get u some test rides man.later
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float_6969
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Bleh - deleted my post. good thing I copied it due to the board generally acting weird...
Well, I went ahead and dug up some hard proof on the power delivery, a dyno.
As you can see, a boatload of torque, then it just "dies" in my book. HP peak was before 5.5k RPM.
That's a 2.0L 2G DSM btw, which is pretty close to an SR in terms of how the powerband would look.
Again, it makes alot of power, but you have to shortshift it to keep it boiling. Hence my comment about "no topend" when the thing had a HP peak a full 2k RPM before redline(at least it would be on an SR). You can still go fast with a powerband that doesn't pull to redline, as evidenced by its track times, but that still doesn't change the fact that it's power in the upper RPM ranges is WEAK.
Compare it to the "overpriced" $1k ball bearing T2x frame turbos and you see that they have a much better blend of efficiency and wheel matches.
It all just depends on what you want to do with the car...
I still think the original poster should be looking at a T28/S15 turbo if good low end is still a priority. You can step up the turbo size a bit, but on a CA you'll start spooling noticeably later and later.
Well, I went ahead and dug up some hard proof on the power delivery, a dyno.
As you can see, a boatload of torque, then it just "dies" in my book. HP peak was before 5.5k RPM.
That's a 2.0L 2G DSM btw, which is pretty close to an SR in terms of how the powerband would look.
Again, it makes alot of power, but you have to shortshift it to keep it boiling. Hence my comment about "no topend" when the thing had a HP peak a full 2k RPM before redline(at least it would be on an SR). You can still go fast with a powerband that doesn't pull to redline, as evidenced by its track times, but that still doesn't change the fact that it's power in the upper RPM ranges is WEAK.
Compare it to the "overpriced" $1k ball bearing T2x frame turbos and you see that they have a much better blend of efficiency and wheel matches.
It all just depends on what you want to do with the car...
I still think the original poster should be looking at a T28/S15 turbo if good low end is still a priority. You can step up the turbo size a bit, but on a CA you'll start spooling noticeably later and later.
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boost_boy
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Quote »I still think the original poster should be looking at a T28/S15 turbo if good low end is still a priority. You can step up the turbo size a bit, but on a CA you'll start spooling noticeably later and later.[/quote] I agree with this only if that was the case. He wants to do both AutoX and drag, so he'll need more of a medium range turbo that will keep this engine tight in it's efficience band. The CA is detonation prone and heat causes hotspots and coupled with a less than adequate fuel management, melt-down is eminent. I've swapped out more than enough turbo combinations on this puppy to conclude that it is not the huff and puff daddy like the slightly bigger SR or the long stroke KA, so it does not benefit from a huge turbo with a huge back housing. A .63 housing is pushing it on a T3/T04E if you're looking to autoX because you will experience lag. A .63 isn't that bad if you use the right T3/T04b combined with the proper staged wheels.
A t25 is just plane 'ol worthless in my opinion for drag. I used to overboost mine by unplugging the wastegate and watch them self-destruct (That's when the money was very good). But then it got boring having to change turbos every month. So I had my turbo people do something stupidly special with the T deuce and a quarter and basically turned it into a T3 without changing to a T3 frame.
Results were sweet with useable boost up to 18psi, but sustained highway speeds cause my intake temeratures to get a little high, but it would've been great for AutoX and maybe some drag. I have video with this turbo in use and I can honestly say, I had fun with it, though I know it was limited. Couped with a good intercooler, a T25 hybrid is good-to-go and probably the way to go for the budget booster. Ballbearing units are the bling kings and it made no since for me to try to GT25 series when I knew I was a destructive booster.
Yeah, I peeped out comprssor maps and such, but nothing is more realistic than a real time show. So far, the T3/T04b is the most flexible blower without breaking the bank hands down. You can crank 25 psi out of the thing, get good power and less the lag without worrying about your precious cartridge blowing apart and if it do, it's very cheap to get it repaired. Unfortunately, repairing the ballbearing units are not cheap if at all possible, unless you got a hook-up. The Fp28 and the S15 turbos are all okay, but the S15 unit is a factory piece and once you blast it, it's time to spend another $900 via ebay to replace it. At least the Fp unit is something that can be restored at a small cost of about $350.
I own 2 DSM high compression 4G63s so i know how they get down. Totally different from the CA18DET, but closely related to the SR in tterms of performance. The CA seems to be more race engine prepped in the event that you can wind it up without the use of some vtec crap or crazy-stiff valve springs. If done correctly, you can build good power with a rlatively small unit and still have some pull long after the peak powerband has been reached.
Dee
A t25 is just plane 'ol worthless in my opinion for drag. I used to overboost mine by unplugging the wastegate and watch them self-destruct (That's when the money was very good). But then it got boring having to change turbos every month. So I had my turbo people do something stupidly special with the T deuce and a quarter and basically turned it into a T3 without changing to a T3 frame.
Results were sweet with useable boost up to 18psi, but sustained highway speeds cause my intake temeratures to get a little high, but it would've been great for AutoX and maybe some drag. I have video with this turbo in use and I can honestly say, I had fun with it, though I know it was limited. Couped with a good intercooler, a T25 hybrid is good-to-go and probably the way to go for the budget booster. Ballbearing units are the bling kings and it made no since for me to try to GT25 series when I knew I was a destructive booster.
Yeah, I peeped out comprssor maps and such, but nothing is more realistic than a real time show. So far, the T3/T04b is the most flexible blower without breaking the bank hands down. You can crank 25 psi out of the thing, get good power and less the lag without worrying about your precious cartridge blowing apart and if it do, it's very cheap to get it repaired. Unfortunately, repairing the ballbearing units are not cheap if at all possible, unless you got a hook-up. The Fp28 and the S15 turbos are all okay, but the S15 unit is a factory piece and once you blast it, it's time to spend another $900 via ebay to replace it. At least the Fp unit is something that can be restored at a small cost of about $350.
I own 2 DSM high compression 4G63s so i know how they get down. Totally different from the CA18DET, but closely related to the SR in tterms of performance. The CA seems to be more race engine prepped in the event that you can wind it up without the use of some vtec crap or crazy-stiff valve springs. If done correctly, you can build good power with a rlatively small unit and still have some pull long after the peak powerband has been reached.
Dee
Quote »A t25 is just plane 'ol worthless in my opinion for drag. [/quote]I agree with this statement regarding his goals of a 12 second pass(don't need to necessarily go really fast to have fun dragging IMO), that's why I'm hinting at the fact that turbos offer a an option of fast response and running out of flowrate pretty quickly or a bit of lag to go with more power potential.
I think that a 12.99 pass is possible with an SR T25 on really high boost(15psi or so). A few people in the SR forum have gone to 12.8-12.9 with most in the 13.0-13.1 range with the stock turbo and lots of bolt-ons. A T28 should enable that to be done in a light car.
A T3/T04b is a good unit for lots of power with a pretty flexible power band, but I'd hate to see a CA try to come out of a 10-15mph hairpin at a tight autocross with one of those mommas hanging off the manifold. You'd probably not build much boost before the next corner.
If he wanted a high powered open track car, then a T3/T04b would be a good option. I've thought about slapping one on my SR, but given that I don't really know anybody that can weld, I'd probably be looking at a good deal more money for a T3/T04b + good manifold + downpipe and probably an external wastegate than just bolting on a ballbearing T2x frame turbo and being happy with the ~300-320rwhp. It does suck that the ballbearing CHRA's are non-rebuildable tho'.
I think that a 12.99 pass is possible with an SR T25 on really high boost(15psi or so). A few people in the SR forum have gone to 12.8-12.9 with most in the 13.0-13.1 range with the stock turbo and lots of bolt-ons. A T28 should enable that to be done in a light car.
A T3/T04b is a good unit for lots of power with a pretty flexible power band, but I'd hate to see a CA try to come out of a 10-15mph hairpin at a tight autocross with one of those mommas hanging off the manifold. You'd probably not build much boost before the next corner.
If he wanted a high powered open track car, then a T3/T04b would be a good option. I've thought about slapping one on my SR, but given that I don't really know anybody that can weld, I'd probably be looking at a good deal more money for a T3/T04b + good manifold + downpipe and probably an external wastegate than just bolting on a ballbearing T2x frame turbo and being happy with the ~300-320rwhp. It does suck that the ballbearing CHRA's are non-rebuildable tho'.
heh I don't intend to blow turbos, I also dont' intend to overboost them beyond their limits.
So hopefully rebuilding won't be an issue. As for the reason I would go with a Ballbearing is obvious, because if the quicker spool up.
Dee: With your experiences when would you estimate a Ball Bearing T3/04B with a 48 exhaust and a 60 turbine would start spooing around?
As for cooling, I'm not 100% how much more cooling these things would need, but I do plan to go large front mount, and aftermarket radiator (although that's stuff that people usually end up doing when boosting more) would it require water injection?
But after doing some reading, I am starting to move more and more towards the T3/4 hybrid, the T2x may offer really quick spool, but in the top end they just die, and for drag racing you're always in the higher rpms.
As for Autox, I've been trying to test out things, autox is more about midrange-top end power (so from 3000 rpm+) since you're never really under that...and if you are you're not for very long.
Although for daily driving low end would probally be the best, no/little boost = good fuel economy for the street
And if I needed too I'd just gun it higher if I needed to move.
So I'm going to try to set from say 3000rpm-8000rpm (or maybe til 7500 rpm) for a usable powerband. So as long as boost starts and can build quickly from 3000 rpm it should be good to go
Although I'm concerned about how much power a T3/4 combo would make for autox (maybe too much) but I can always turn down the boost for that As long as I have a helical limited slip (S15 or Quaife) I should be good to go
So hopefully rebuilding won't be an issue. As for the reason I would go with a Ballbearing is obvious, because if the quicker spool up.
Dee: With your experiences when would you estimate a Ball Bearing T3/04B with a 48 exhaust and a 60 turbine would start spooing around?
As for cooling, I'm not 100% how much more cooling these things would need, but I do plan to go large front mount, and aftermarket radiator (although that's stuff that people usually end up doing when boosting more) would it require water injection?
But after doing some reading, I am starting to move more and more towards the T3/4 hybrid, the T2x may offer really quick spool, but in the top end they just die, and for drag racing you're always in the higher rpms.
As for Autox, I've been trying to test out things, autox is more about midrange-top end power (so from 3000 rpm+) since you're never really under that...and if you are you're not for very long.
Although for daily driving low end would probally be the best, no/little boost = good fuel economy for the street
And if I needed too I'd just gun it higher if I needed to move.So I'm going to try to set from say 3000rpm-8000rpm (or maybe til 7500 rpm) for a usable powerband. So as long as boost starts and can build quickly from 3000 rpm it should be good to go
Although I'm concerned about how much power a T3/4 combo would make for autox (maybe too much) but I can always turn down the boost for that
As long as I have a helical limited slip (S15 or Quaife) I should be good to goDef wrote:I agree with this statement regarding his goals of a 12 second pass(don't need to necessarily go really fast to have fun dragging IMO), that's why I'm hinting at the fact that turbos offer a an option of fast response and running out of flowrate pretty quickly or a bit of lag to go with more power potential.
I think that a 12.99 pass is possible with an SR T25 on really high boost(15psi or so). A few people in the SR forum have gone to 12.8-12.9 with most in the 13.0-13.1 range with the stock turbo and lots of bolt-ons. A T28 should enable that to be done in a light car.
A T3/T04b is a good unit for lots of power with a pretty flexible power band, but I'd hate to see a CA try to come out of a 10-15mph hairpin at a tight autocross with one of those mommas hanging off the manifold. You'd probably not build much boost before the next corner.
If he wanted a high powered open track car, then a T3/T04b would be a good option. I've thought about slapping one on my SR, but given that I don't really know anybody that can weld, I'd probably be looking at a good deal more money for a T3/T04b + good manifold + downpipe and probably an external wastegate than just bolting on a ballbearing T2x frame turbo and being happy with the ~300-320rwhp. It does suck that the ballbearing CHRA's are non-rebuildable tho'.
You are also just as wise haha
I think I'll have to play around. Both you guys have really good points and I'm taking all of them into account.I might just need to get an S15 turbo first, then see if I like it, get more money, build the T3/4 combo, see which one I like more, sell the one I like the least or save it for a diffrent car.
btw what's CHRA, I've seen it everywhere, but I'm not too sure what it stands for haha
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boost_boy
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Quote »Dee: With your experiences when would you estimate a Ball Bearing T3/04B with a 48 exhaust and a 60 turbine would start spooing around?[/quote] A ball bearing T3/T04B? Hmm, if you can find one, I would assume around 3000rpm. A standard T3/T04B in that same trim will you have your engine hollering from full boost at around 3500-4000rpm, but with ceramic cartridge.
Dee
Dee
CHRA = center housing rotational assembly
Basically the bearings/oil cooling section of the turbo between the turbine and compressor. Ball bearing CHRA aren't rebuildable, so if you do blow them up somehow, it's almost the price of a new turbo to fix it. Journal bearing CHRA's are rebuildable, but have less of a lifetime when both are taken care of the same, so you WILL be rebuilding it if you rack up lots of miles and boost the turbo lots.
Honestly, I'd stick with the stock T25 for a ltitle while and that'll tell you really quickly how much lag you think is "acceptable" and how much more power you think you'll want. My mostly stock SR with a T25 at 10psi is pretty exciting. Not mind blowingly fast by any stretch, but it'll keep me entertained for a while. After driving it a bit I realize I probably wouldn't be happy with a 400rwhp turbo, as the lag would probably get to me more than I'd enjoy the "OH CRAP!" feeling when boost hit. So I think a 300-320rwhp bolt-on turbo is just the smart move for me and my goals. If I were mostly drag racing I think I'd go with a 0.86 A/R GT25R, although I wouldn't really try that with a CA.
Basically the bearings/oil cooling section of the turbo between the turbine and compressor. Ball bearing CHRA aren't rebuildable, so if you do blow them up somehow, it's almost the price of a new turbo to fix it. Journal bearing CHRA's are rebuildable, but have less of a lifetime when both are taken care of the same, so you WILL be rebuilding it if you rack up lots of miles and boost the turbo lots.
Honestly, I'd stick with the stock T25 for a ltitle while and that'll tell you really quickly how much lag you think is "acceptable" and how much more power you think you'll want. My mostly stock SR with a T25 at 10psi is pretty exciting. Not mind blowingly fast by any stretch, but it'll keep me entertained for a while. After driving it a bit I realize I probably wouldn't be happy with a 400rwhp turbo, as the lag would probably get to me more than I'd enjoy the "OH CRAP!" feeling when boost hit. So I think a 300-320rwhp bolt-on turbo is just the smart move for me and my goals. If I were mostly drag racing I think I'd go with a 0.86 A/R GT25R, although I wouldn't really try that with a CA.
boost_boy wrote:A ball bearing T3/T04B? Hmm, if you can find one, I would assume around 3000rpm. A standard T3/T04B in that same trim will you have your engine hollering from full boost at around 3500-4000rpm, but with ceramic cartridge.
Dee
So when would the turbos start spooling? I'm gonna assume they won't hit full boost in 500 rpm...
And the .48 exhaust was the one you were recommending before for a more responsive over the 62 with a 60 turbine right?
I was at work everytime I read one of your posts so I didn't have time to copy everything down (I'm going by memory)
As well arn't ceramic cartridges weak? Like they can only handle 17psi?
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/t3-4.html apparently they make BB t3/4 hybrids, but their site is pretty bare...
A ball bearing T3/T04B will no longer be a $550 turbo, more like an almost $900 turbo, which you will have to get a manifold, downpipe and hot pipe done up for.
Once you want something other than a traditional journal bearing turbo, the T3/T04B upgrade path loses almost all its appeal.
It doesn't sound like you want much power, so why are you so intent on losing your stock manifold? There are plenty of bolt-on turbos that will give you more than enough power, it's just a question of if you want that much lag. That same lag will be there with a T3/T04B turbo as well, even with the small 0.48 A/R turbine. This is assuming you size out the turbo properly, but I don't see why a 0.64 A/R T28 hotside with a NS111 wheel would have any trouble spooling a reasonable ~300rwhp compressor wheel.
Once you want something other than a traditional journal bearing turbo, the T3/T04B upgrade path loses almost all its appeal.
It doesn't sound like you want much power, so why are you so intent on losing your stock manifold? There are plenty of bolt-on turbos that will give you more than enough power, it's just a question of if you want that much lag. That same lag will be there with a T3/T04B turbo as well, even with the small 0.48 A/R turbine. This is assuming you size out the turbo properly, but I don't see why a 0.64 A/R T28 hotside with a NS111 wheel would have any trouble spooling a reasonable ~300rwhp compressor wheel.
ask somebody who actually runs a big28 on an sr20, how the turbo performs. I bet the words "weak" and "stinks" won't be part of their assessment. Heck, just for 5hits and giggles, -tell- them how 'weak' their top end is, because so & so......
I find it strange these hi rpm efficient turbos post no impressive ETs, but you'll often hear about their hi hp dyno runs. hmmmmm.I recall one $$$$uch turbo put out ~380whp on an sr. Great. Even with intake, cams and custom tuning, the torque PEAKED at 308 ft-lbs. A pos? What I'm saying is, put that up against 370+ ft-lbs and you will find out what "weak" really means. Sure you can "downplay" torque and "hype up" hi rpm efficiency, but don't be surprised if you end up chasing tail lights.
As I said before, the big28 is the max I'd try to get out of a bolt-on turbo. Go T3 footprint if you're looking beyond. A turbo guru spec'd a t3/t04b that worked wonders on a mazda 1.8L - sound identical to what boost_boy is saying.I'll knock up a manifold and go mitsu turbos on my 2nd ca18; evoIII 16g then probably a 20. A uk guy has already 12.0 on a 16g/ca18, 1.7 60'.
I find it strange these hi rpm efficient turbos post no impressive ETs, but you'll often hear about their hi hp dyno runs. hmmmmm.I recall one $$$$uch turbo put out ~380whp on an sr. Great. Even with intake, cams and custom tuning, the torque PEAKED at 308 ft-lbs. A pos? What I'm saying is, put that up against 370+ ft-lbs and you will find out what "weak" really means. Sure you can "downplay" torque and "hype up" hi rpm efficiency, but don't be surprised if you end up chasing tail lights.
As I said before, the big28 is the max I'd try to get out of a bolt-on turbo. Go T3 footprint if you're looking beyond. A turbo guru spec'd a t3/t04b that worked wonders on a mazda 1.8L - sound identical to what boost_boy is saying.I'll knock up a manifold and go mitsu turbos on my 2nd ca18; evoIII 16g then probably a 20. A uk guy has already 12.0 on a 16g/ca18, 1.7 60'.
Subjective impressions don't change the power delivery of the turbo. Like I said, it can go fast, but it has a poor powerband for anything other than straightline racing(which is what you seem to be concentrating on from a real-world results perspective).
You sure about that 380/308 dyno? doesn't sound like *ANY* SR dyno I've ever seen. Usually the torque and HP are within 10-15% of each other if not very close.
You sure about that 380/308 dyno? doesn't sound like *ANY* SR dyno I've ever seen. Usually the torque and HP are within 10-15% of each other if not very close.
what are you talking about needing something with a good spoolup... why dont you read what they have to say about their turbo, or call them up yourself...
heres a quote right off the forced performance site... "Did we mention it makes full boost in just a hair over 3000rpm, and holds solid all the way to redline?"
you cant get any more straightfoward than that...
heres a quote right off the forced performance site... "Did we mention it makes full boost in just a hair over 3000rpm, and holds solid all the way to redline?"
you cant get any more straightfoward than that...
the ca doesn't need to be an sr.Look at the t28 dynos and ETs of ca powered vs sr. Not much difference at all. (eg. tweaked and cuzano here). Go to the uk forums for tons more.
You've been given more than enough good advice in this thread. I dunno what guys haven't done short of coming to your house and bolting on a turbo. Wish u luck
Def, have u seen the dyno of the sr/big28 or u base your "Subjective impressions" off a dsm dyno ? I hope not. Your "charts" gonna lead u off a cliff. The big28 is an *excellent* street turbo... u know like what 99% of us use our car for. You are overlooking that small detail. If you "enjoy the "OH CRAP!" feeling when boost hit" of your puny t25, its a good thing you don't have or like the big28... you'd pee youself when that torque pins u in the seat and the car goes nuts.LOTS of SRs make substantially less torque than hp. Thats why this big28 is such a gem in imo. Want more? Didn't Scott (secret services) 400whp sr20 dyno 305 ft-lbs? I'm sure you'd luv that.
You've been given more than enough good advice in this thread. I dunno what guys haven't done short of coming to your house and bolting on a turbo. Wish u luck
Def, have u seen the dyno of the sr/big28 or u base your "Subjective impressions" off a dsm dyno ? I hope not. Your "charts" gonna lead u off a cliff. The big28 is an *excellent* street turbo... u know like what 99% of us use our car for. You are overlooking that small detail. If you "enjoy the "OH CRAP!" feeling when boost hit" of your puny t25, its a good thing you don't have or like the big28... you'd pee youself when that torque pins u in the seat and the car goes nuts.LOTS of SRs make substantially less torque than hp. Thats why this big28 is such a gem in imo. Want more? Didn't Scott (secret services) 400whp sr20 dyno 305 ft-lbs? I'm sure you'd luv that.
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float_6969
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- Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily) - Location: Topeka, Kansas
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Thanks for all the good info guys, this has been a great thread, but things are starting to get redundant, and I think everyone has made their point. If you have anything else that you think is dire that needs added to this, let me know and I'll re-open it. Otherwise, thank you for your help and I think that the original poster can now make an informed decision.