S15 T28, Bolts right on S13 SR! A Step by Step

[Cyberkreig]

SO my turbo went out a few weeks ago. I got myself an S15T28. I was SO excited. Flash forward. I hate this Fing turbo.

First the lines. OH the lines. Sure your stock T25 lines WILL work. Only problem is they have to be bent. "tinkered with" someone told me. Little did i know that "tinkered with" ment Bend lines, put turbo in, pull turbo out bend lines more x1000000. Once the manifold turbo setup is in you cant bend the lines, oh no.

Got the lines in? Congrats. Now the oil drain fitting. "Just slot the bolt holes" people tell me. This flange is made from adimantium. I broke a tungsten-carbide drill bit. 6, yes 6 drill charges and i still have 1/4" to go.

Then there is the little issue of the inlet and outlet pipes. Sure you could pay to have your stockers cutup, or you can buy the s15 pipes. I chose the latter, thinking that would be the easy way. Wrong. Now your stock intake pipe doesnt fit, and neither does your hotpipe. Time to get the hacksaw and order some couplings!

Then, THEN the iceing on the cake of my turbo swap. As i was re attaching the water outlet ( Getting the turbo in and out is much easier with this removed, also keep the outlet elbow off while test fitting the lines.) I snapped the bottom bolt, 3 long bolts 1 short. Be very very careful not to confuse which hole is which!

[/rant]

May my horrible attempts at being a mechanic help someone else.

[1mns13]

This seems much more complicated than SocietyMike's writeup on Freshalloy

[illvia]

Good info.

I hope the GT28RS isnt too bad"direct drop in"

[180crafter]

Good info.

I hope the GT28RS isnt too bad"direct drop in"

Only problem I had is the damn intake pipe.....

[BaliLover]

From what I've seen, the 2 turbos (s15 T28 and GT28RS) are fairly similar. Don't use a drill bit to slot the oil flange, instead use a die grinder or a dremel with a stone, it didn't take me long to do mine. I had NO problems bending the lines to fit my GT28RS, just be careful not to kink them. I believe I did this off the car and just kinda looked at my bends, then in the engine bay to see how it needed to go.

As for the outlet, I found some truck radiator hose that was the right diameter with a 90 degree bend, and used that for a coupler. I've been pushing 14lbs for months now with no problems at all. I connected this to my enjuku hotpipe so I'm guessing it will also work with the stock pipe.

The Intake is a PITA, the stock one for sure won't work with the GT28RS, not only is it too small in diameter, the GT28RS doesn't have the elbow that the stock T28 has so the bends are wrong anyway. What I did, and its worked since I fixed a slight problem 2 days turbo install, was use a cooling duct from the ricer section at autozone. Its black plastic flexie tube, thats 3" diameter and comes with 2 pretty nice clamps. ITs plenty long and it bends really well, so its not too bad to snake around the engine bay. If you're using the stock MAFS, you'll need to make a bushing out of some pieces of rubber hose so that the duct will fit onto it and not over it. The little problem I ran into is that being plastic, it is prone to melting under extreme heat, and it runs close to the manifold. It got too hot and melted some holes. I cut of the melted section, stretched it out a bit more, and reconnected. I then took some pieces of radiator hose, split them down the middle, and wrapped the section of pipe just under the manifold with it. I then used a couple of zipties to hold it in place and I haven't had a problem since.

The pipe I refer to was 19.99 at Autozone, in the ricer section, and the packaging suggests that it is to be used as a cold air duct to flow air from under your bumper to your airfilter. THis is not a CAI though, just a duct.

[Onizuka]

Oil return flange: I used a reaming bit not a drill bit, which didnt make the process fast or easy, but got the job done and only one was nessecary. I then heated (with a propane torch) and bent the tube on the flange away from the steering shaft and exaust housing.

Bending hard lines: Yes, it was a ***** and took several adjustments before it would fit right.

Compressor inlet and outlet: I used the T25 inlet rewelded and T28 outlet. I made my intake pipe out of $2 worth of 2" PVC tubing and $20 worth of silicon couplers. Just got a 45 degree silcon elbow for the outlet and the hotpipe shortened. Sure it all looks ghetto, but it works and was cheap.

And no, Nothing has melted yet

[Cyberkreig]

Who would have guessed my rant thread has turned into a thread with useful info!

Update:

Oil Drain. I used the dremil today. Once i got it to bolt on I realized it points directly toward the steering column. At this, I give up. Just going to spend the money on the right part.

Hotpipe. I hacksawed off an angular section on the turbo end. This worked amazingly well (Enjuku pipe) And I may take pics to post.

Intake. I've decided on a 45* silicon bend, a section of 2.5" ss exhaust pipe and a 2.5" silicion coupling to the maf. We will see how this worksout.

[Onizuka]

Oil Drain. I used the dremil today. Once i got it to bolt on I realized it points directly toward the steering column. At this, I give up. Just going to spend the money on the right part.

Same thing happend to me, heres what i did:

left hand: propane torch availble at home depotright hand: socket extention

turn on torch, heat until red, stick socket extention in tube and slowly bend away from steering shaft, drop heated socket extention on arm three times for proper 2nd degree burns, turn off torch, marvle and new bendyness of the tube.

[180fan]

Kazama has the adapter plates for the s15 t28 on the s13. They're not too expensive and make it a bolt on, with the oil and coolant lines from takamotorsports, it does become a bolt on the s13 sr. Otherwise you might want to cut the intake pipe and get the proper angle on it, then weld it.

[180crafter]

This flange is made from adimantium.

drop heated socket extention on arm three times for proper 2nd degree burns, turn off torch, marvle and new bendyness of the tube

LOL!!!!

I love you guys....

If I had to do it again, I would defeinitly do the Taka lines, so much easier, no more bending. The inlet needed another littel connector, good thing I had it handy....

I still havent bought the intake pipe, but will do the plastic thing until I can get to my freinds muffler shop and have them weld me up some bends....

[Cyberkreig]

Found a useful webpage

http://www.sr20tuning.com/fittingaturbo.html