S14a SR20: oil leak

[Kr5Kouki]

ive searched and found some ideas. i just need verification:

my S14 SR had 4.5 quarts [of mobil1 10w/30] and after i finished up the wiring finally [its colder then balls out], and while the car is idling no oil drops. i tried to drive her and she slipped on some ice and i didnt get over 4500 revs. then i stopped and checked her out and noticed the oil.

the oil is on the sway bar, alt, and underdrive pulley. the oil leaks from 360* around the motor. but lower then the head gasket. although the fan belt had oil on it too. the turbo line has an AN fitting and steel line. the oil filter is dry.

so my assumption is this:
-i havent taken off the oil pan AT ALL.
-i have only replaced the valve cover gasket.
-so i think the steel pan is leaking. BUT i read there isnt pressure in the lower oil pan.

now i am mechanically capable. and it seems the lower pan can drop without undoing the sway bar and alt or jacking the motor up.
the pan SEEMS to have a dent on the underside but i am not 100% as i dont know what a new stock one looks like.

my motor:
s14a SR20det
-fmic
-megan manifold
-t28bb
-stock computer
-stock fuel system
-z32 filter
-255lph walbro
-magnaflow 2.5" exhaust
-blitz 3" downpipe

suspension:
-ksport coilovers
-battle version rear arm set
-stock upper/lower control arms
-arizona Z car bbk
-tien tie rods/ends

interior:
-stock
-blown airbags
-b&m short shifter
-nismo leather nob

electronics:
-megan a/f gauge
-megan oil pressure
-AEM truboost
^none installed.
-mickey mouse column
-a-pillar pod

[codyace]

Why not just check it out and look?

SR20's have two pans...lower one and upper. Upper is a sillicone gasket, and is one major PITA to even remotely do properly in car...You should reallyeither pull the engine to do that, or you'll be pulling the lower crossmember out of the car to get to it.

In regard to oil leaks, check the main things

Valve Cover
Timing Chain Tensioner
Oil Feed/Return from Turbo
CAS seal
Rear Main
Front Oil Pump Seal/Crank Pulley seal
and the front cover itself (common SR to leak between head and pump)

It could really be anything...take the car to a car wash..spray it all down with some SUper clean/Purple Power/Degreaser....let it soak in, and then high pressure hose it off...then just watch for future leaks.

[Kr5Kouki]

i did take a look. all the oil seems to be below the head gasket, none around it.
the turbo line is dry. cas is too. the rear of the pan [toward back tires] is wet. valve cover is dry.
thanks for the places to check out though.
but oil pans do eventually leak right? and pressure CAN build up in them?

[codyace]

Any seal obviously has the potential to leak, and pressure can build but there should really be none in a good fresh/sealed engine. Is your PCV setup properly? I couldn't see so much pressure as to push a seal without it driving like complete junk ya know?

Typically the upper pans don't leak, but anything is possible. Big thing however is to ensure the bottom pan is dent free.

[Kr5Kouki]

well the lower pan isnt,
and its too cold to do much right now.
this weekend that motor has a date with seafoam and RTV sealer

[Seishuku]

Not likely related, but 4.5 quarts? The SR only takes 3.25 quarts,

[codyace]

WHile the FSM says what it may say, 4 qts is certainly a safe 'level' for anyone driving their SR beyond daily standards.

[Kr5Kouki]

hmmm, thanks for that info, i went by the dipstick.
=/

i resealed the lower pan today with RTV blue. for it being 35*F outside i think it turned out well. we'll know in 24 hours if it was infact the lower pan.

[codyace]

RTV Blue?

why why why why why do people still use blue?

GRAY is what you should use

[Kr5Kouki]

whats the main differences? will the pan not seal?

[Kr5Kouki]

well blue didnt seal the pan, and the full syn 10w 30 just dripped out.

[Kr5Kouki]

okay i am stumped. 4 days of "drying" didnt work. as soon as the oil gets warm it spews out. should i re-do the pan and run conventional? i really would love some help

[rc1honda]

Yeah redo and seal with the Gray high temp/pressure RTV. A lot of people have this problem when they change to a aftermarket oil pan and use RTV. Also now is a good time to throw a moroso or greddy pan in there anyway.

And maybe put a floor jack under it overnight with mild pressure just to keep the pan tight against the motor. I don't need to emphasize "mild pressure" right?

[thoughtless]

no offense but a floor jack? No thanks, I'm going to rd seal it with black and use 5w20

[Kr5Kouki]

so, i re did the pan

i used sandpaper on the mounting areas. then brakekleend it. now i set it up using black rtv quick set.
i put it together today @ 1647 cst @ 40-45*F

it is now 1725 and i will 1/2 tighten them @1850

any cmts/tips?

[Kr5Kouki]

im using Permatex Black, and a space heater hahah

[Kr5Kouki]

black didnt work. im going with the 1 minute permatex black sealer. while it claims 1 minute drying the seeped edges were still sticky around 1 hour later

[Lobo240sx]

Use Grey Silicone nothing else. If that pan has just a little nick it can jack the engine up. FYI

[Kr5Kouki]

like ACTUAL silicone sealer, or RTV type silicone?

[Seishuku]

I used permatex black and red on my SR, no leaks here... There's nothing wrong with those. Though gray is what Nissan uses from the factory, but silicone sealants are largely the same, usually just different temperature applications.

I would let it set for 24 hours at 50 degrees, minimum, before even thinking about putting oil back in.

[Lobo240sx]

like ACTUAL silicone sealer, or RTV type silicone?

[codyace]

no offense but a floor jack? No thanks, I'm going to rd seal it with black and use 5w20

Floor jack and a block of wood are more than fine.

5w20 is WAY to light for a turbo car

[codyace]

I used permatex black and red on my SR, no leaks here... There's nothing wrong with those. Though gray is what Nissan uses from the factory, but silicone sealants are largely the same, usually just different temperature applications.

I would let it set for 24 hours at 50 degrees, minimum, before even thinking about putting oil back in.

The only similar thing about them is the price.

Every sillicone is VERY different. In the end of the day though, Ultra Gray (from either permetex or from 'the right stuff') works on 95% of all sillicone based seals out there...it blows Blue/ORange/Black out of the water every single time. Diffs to engines, to transmissions to anything...Ultra gray rocks. Sure Permetex now offers a 'differential sealer', but I've yet to try it as the Gray works best.

Now when it comes to super heat situations (exhaust namely), Ultra Copper is really the king. Gray works, Copper is much better. You'd laugh at some of the hack repairs on field cars and similar with Ultra copper...that stuff plain works.

[codyace]

so, i re did the pan

i used sandpaper on the mounting areas. then brakekleend it. now i set it up using black rtv quick set.
i put it together today @ 1647 cst @ 40-45*F

it is now 1725 and i will 1/2 tighten them @1850

any cmts/tips?

With any sillicone application, you want the surfaces completly clean, and oil free. This may have been an issue of why you were having an issue of it not working.

Ultra Gray / Import Gray or similar. Anything else is simply wrong.

FWIW: 'The right stuff' makes an instant seal sillicone gray now as well.

[Kr5Kouki]

this is whats up;; ive been wanting this sort of information.
but unfortunately i have to:
1) pull the motor
2) drop the subframe

to fix the oil leaking from behind the crank pulley [the timing chain/oil pump cover?] and reseal that AND the upper AND the lower oil pan...

this Silvia clone better have enough to kill some honda 2000's... Thats all ive been building her for, and well Mustangs :-&

[Lobo240sx]

Yes unfortunately. Make sure you get a front main seal and a bunch of grey silicone RTV. Have you changed your PCV valve on the valve cover? How healthy is your turbo any blowby, smoke, oil in I/C piping?

[Kr5Kouki]

no shaft play in the turbo when i got it. outa the 20-30 min total driven since swap was completed [surprises only japan could fix] it drove great, esp after lowering the voltage coming from the MAF. no oil in the ic, it smokes white but doesnt smell like coolant or fuel. i just have to seafoam the motor, buuut i need to fix this oil leak

[codyace]

this is whats up;; ive been wanting this sort of information.
but unfortunately i have to:
1) pull the motor
2) drop the subframe

THat's the only way to do it right in car. However if the oil pump/timing cover isn't leaking, don't bother. TO change that seal, all you'll need to do is remove the crank pulley. Very easy job.

BUt certainly, when it comes to RTV or Sillicone, the only 2 you'll ever need are Ultra Gray, and Copper (for exhaust stuff). THat's it.

this Silvia clone better have enough to kill some honda 2000's... Thats all ive been building her for, and well Mustangs :-&

Bone stock it'll pull on a s2000...even a modded one would have a hard time keeping up with the basic 210-230 whp SR 240.

[Kr5Kouki]

pump the brakes;; Codyace, youre telling me that all i have to do is pull the crank pulley and seal behind it?

[Lobo240sx]

If you are sure that is the only thing leaking. Rent a crank pulley puller from Autozone and get a 91 sr20de ser front main seal.


I pulled a s2000 when my sr was bone stock with a 10psi boost controller. What a way to blow 45k on a slow honda lol.