ive got the gasket kit already, so i think i will replace the front/rear main seals.
while watching the car start after i resealed the lower pan i saw the oil STREAM from behind my undersized crank pulley. i will post a video on here right now just so you guys can get a better idea.

After 5-8 mins of running, this is my oil problem now:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... R7kjihwOYg

Looks like it to me.

Thats 1 for front/rear main seal.

anyone else

Looks like the front main, you can have it replaced in about an hour and it should be pretty cheap from the parts store.

appreciate it. i will crack open the FSM when the sun comes up

Im having a similar problem mine is a slow leak and it keeps building up in the crank pulley im gona change the seal see if that fixes the problem.. Good luck

^thanks for that bomb.
did the seal workout for you

Kr5Kouki wrote:appreciate it. i will crack open the FSM when the sun comes up

It's super simple

REmove belts
Take out center bolt
remove pulley (sometimes a puller is needed, other times you can kinda pry it off gently. BE CAREFUL as if you pry hard you risk cracking the front cover/oil pump.
Remove the seal with a screwdriver/pick/similar tool. Wipe the area out, and then gently tap the new one in. If you can use a larger socket for a 'driver' that would help keep it even, but slightly tapping it in a circle works great too if you are in a pinch. DO NOT force it.

Reinstall it in reverse order, and you'll be good.

FWIW: Seems like you damaged the OEM seal when you put the aftermarket pulley on.

It is NOT your rear main seal...that's in the back between the trans and engine.

codyace, bro, i love you.

and yeah i just remembered i had the full gasket kit in the Kouki's trunk. so i can basically do this in my drive way on jackstands? ballin'.

i hope this is the final fix.
thanks.

okay Nico, i replaced the front main seal just as the FSM instructed [crankshaft, EM section] but heres what i did.
-lifted/supported car
-removed alt belt
-removed ps belt
-took a 1/2" ratchet with a 27mm socket and removed the bolt in my underdrive crank pulley [no breaker bar, hello ladiez]
-the old front main was in 3 parts, both sides separated from the middle spring. there was a clump of metal shavings behind the old fmseal and the key on the crank had kinda sheared off. so i cleaned it all out, dried the area of oil and brakekleen
-primed the new fmseal with oil, line it up and carefully tapped in in with a hammer: quad 4, quad 2, quad 1, quad 3, then left right up down till it was flush with the timing chain casing[?]
-cleaned the belts, cleaned the pulley, cleaned the alt with lectrickleen and the pulley
-tightened down to 110lbs
-installed belts
-dropped car
started it up 20 mins later there was a slow leak, and its progressively getting bigger and bigger

How is your oil pressure when you first start it then warm up to operating temp?? Still leaking in the same place like in your YT video??

i havent check oil pressure. but yes the leak is coming from the same place, granted it was SLOWER with the new fmseal it still leaked and it bugs me.

also, how do i check oil pressure? i have a megan oil pressure gauge just not installed. i think i will go ahead and do that.

Definitely install that gauge. That will diagnose a lot of weird problems, especially with a SR20. At this point it is hard to say what it is. I would check the PCV valve that is located on the valve cover near the firewall. Unscrew it and check to see if the ball inside it is moving freely. If you haven't replaced it, I would start there next. Something is causing it to build pressure and find the weakest gasket to push out.

I had this problem with my 1st SR. Replaced ALL gaskets and still pushed out... Ended up being the turbo, and clogged oil galleries. Hopefully yours will be easier. Good luck man.

did your fix require a break down of the motor or just seafoam?

my t28 went out on me today, it makes no boost and has a harsh rattle in it.
my trans is also whinning even after adding 2 quarts of lucas.
thanks for all the input lobo, this is my DD and it isnt goin well =[

and i think im gettin fuel in my oil but im not sure

Kr5Kouki wrote:did your fix require a break down of the motor or just seafoam?

my t28 went out on me today, it makes no boost and has a harsh rattle in it.
my trans is also whinning even after adding 2 quarts of lucas.
thanks for all the input lobo, this is my DD and it isnt goin well =[

and i think im gettin fuel in my oil but im not sure

That rattle is probably the thrust bearings + wheel not spinning freely and hitting the inside walls of the turbo.. Time for a turbo rebuild. Fix was weird... Got the turbo rebuilt, took ALL the crap off the head and soaked it. The squirters for the cams were clogged. Everything else was still good cylinder walls + pistons were perfect.

did you try sea foam before you tore the head apart?

Kr5Kouki wrote:did you try sea foam before you tore the head apart?

Na man I didn't. Definitely worth a shot after your turbo rebuild. If it doesn't work you are gonna have to soak it. Do you have any breather filters on the valve cover?? That can cause ventilation problems too. Looks cool but not recommended.

Nah I don't fall into the looks> performance category, but I did get the t28 rebuild kit for $ 53 shipped priority mail.

Damn that is a good steal!! Gotta hustle where you can man.

update: sunday i pulled the turbo, crazy shaft play. atleast 1mm all around. also, noo coolant lines on the turbo. i thought it was wierd since i KNEW there were 2 coolant, and 2 oil. so i cracked the FSM sure enough, 4 lines. the coolant lines were sealed by a bolt.

ready for the back story? after being hounded i took it to a certified mechanic here in clarksville, tn. modified imports, ran by thomas lewis. [f- him]. so i take my baby down there, and tell him to finish some stuff up and thread my turbo oil supply because i couldnt get it to thread right. so in 6 weeks i get it back, paid $1300+ and now my turbo is shot, my seals are busting, and shiz is f-bombing up.

basicallly i have this t28 rebuild kit, but i need internals. who's got ideas for me. im tryin to keep the solution cost effective

Hey man it is gonna be cost effective if you get a professional to build your turbo right.

im going to go with a ebay gt2871r knockoff till i can afford something reliable. but hey, T28 journal bearing rebuild kit for sale. $50 and its yours in the 48

Sounds like its time for you to get a 20g.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MHI-TD06 ... 1094wt_939

Add injectors, z32 maf and a tune then shake well and you have 400 wheel hp.

more like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 3420wt_992
ive built her how i love her
balanced

Ebay turbos's....*shiver*

yeah i feel ya Codyace, theyre hit or miss but cost effective in the short run on my front.
plus i have friends from an aviation unit helpin me out with steel braided lines and -AN fittings so the turbo will stay
in verrry good conditions. Andy @ Autovaugn Performance doesnt know it yet, but ill be calling him soon about NIStune
software and install ;]

but back to OP, i pulled the motor planning to reseal the whole oil assm. buut i broke the timing chain cover tryin to pry it off, anyone tryin to sell a used one in good condition?

Codyace was right, i eventually used RTV Grey, and it sealed right up.
had to change the underdrive pulley because it kept destroying the main seal.

Thanks.
and

ATTACK OF ZOMBIE THREAD!

Hehe. Glad to see you got around to solving the problem, even if it was 2 years later :P