i recently picked up a 1995 s14 base model (manual with VLSD). the previous owner had upgraded the front shocks to GR2 (i think) and left everything else stock.
currently the rear bounces a bit (damping is poor), the body roll is more than i'd like, and the combination of the two seems to cause the rear to break loose easily during cornering on slightly rough pavement, and turn transitions. if i try a slalom-type left-right, straightening out the car results in a bit of rocking before the car settles. also, with a full gas tank, a sharp turn-in causes rocking/swaying through the whole turn (the reduced traction head-room is kind of worrying on highway on-ramps)
what i'd like is a more stable car with increased cornering traction on slightly uneven pavement without a jarring ride for everyday usage. ideally, id like to be able to tighten the setup even more for the occaisonal track or autoX day. also, i dont want to lower the car or have to change chamber.
questions:1. can a set of coilovers solve the problems?2. are there any respectable coilovers for a 95 s4 that have preload and independent compression and rebound adjustment?3. what kind of spring rate should i get?4. what does the rear sway bar do? should i get one? which one?5. how can i tell if my bushings need replacement? which ones should i get?6. i'd like to spend less than $1500 on everything, is this realistic? what are my best choices for this budget?7. what kind of labor cost should i epxect?
thanks!
S14 suspension upgrade question
Re: S14 suspension upgrade question (joystick)
batlle version tie rods rock! made in the USA! as far as I know
Re: S14 suspension upgrade question (impel)
Replacing all your bushings would make things firm but also stiff. Energy suspensions full kit is less than $150 w/o labor. The S14 SE came with sway bars front and rear iirc. I don't have much body roll with just the stock but places like whiteline make them respectably cheap, under $300 for both I believe. So even then you could still get stance coils and be at 1550 for everything besides RUCAS and your car would handle like it was on rails for the most part
Re: S14 suspension upgrade question (joystick)
The sway bars job is to prevent the body from rolling or , leaning.
If you have a base model, those S14'S did not come with rear sway bars.
For example...a soft luxury car, or big SUV. when they turn hard, you can watch the body roll to the outside like its going to flip over.
A sway bar prevents this by connecting both sides of the car together at the suspension, and connecting to the center of the car. this way, one side CANNOT lean or roll to far without bending the bar.
The thicker the sway bar, the less body roll you get, and the flatter your car stays during cornering.
But as a general rule, which ever side has a thicker sway bar (front on the 240SX'S) that end will tend to loose traction first (assuming the rest of the suspension is in spec which ...yours is not)
theres two ways to make a flatter cornering car.
Stiff springs and soft sway bars, or Soft springs and stiff sway bars <==(Best choice for a daily driver)
As far as spring rate, for a Daily drive /weekend racer i hear tein S-techs are pretty damn good spring...they have the same spring rate as stock, preserving your comfortable ride, yet they lower the car about 1.5 inches. Lower center of gravity also = flatter cornering.
First thing i would do is get a rear sway bar...Ive always been told base model s14's of that year do NOT have rear sway bars...so look into that.
Thats likely a major reason your getting that shaking and oscilation in the rear after exiting a slalom.
Best way for you to tell if your bushings are bad is get your car up on a lift...and check your subframe componants for any excessive play and visually inspect them ^.^. Or just take it to an alignment shop and ask them, they will not align your car most of the time if some bushings are too worn out and they will tell you.
And yes, under 1500$ definetely.
Rear sway bar - 218$ http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
Bushings - 146$ (first set) http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
KYB AGX Struts - 492$ http://www.kybshocksonline.com...09079
Tein s-tech -Springs 200$ http://www.directtuning.com/st...By2=1
And install them yourself its really NOT that difficult, but if your uncomfortable people here WILL help you.
Whatever you decide on, get your parts first and dont worry about labor. Then come back here and we can help you, or direct you to VERY good guides on how to do it. Installing a sway bar is not difficult, replacing struts is not difficult. Springs are annoying but not difficult. and you will get such a great sense of accomplishment by doing it yourself.
Modified by Chukidori at 1:35 PM 5/20/2007
Modified by Chukidori at 1:38 PM 5/20/2007
If you have a base model, those S14'S did not come with rear sway bars.
For example...a soft luxury car, or big SUV. when they turn hard, you can watch the body roll to the outside like its going to flip over.
A sway bar prevents this by connecting both sides of the car together at the suspension, and connecting to the center of the car. this way, one side CANNOT lean or roll to far without bending the bar.
The thicker the sway bar, the less body roll you get, and the flatter your car stays during cornering.
But as a general rule, which ever side has a thicker sway bar (front on the 240SX'S) that end will tend to loose traction first (assuming the rest of the suspension is in spec which ...yours is not)
theres two ways to make a flatter cornering car.
Stiff springs and soft sway bars, or Soft springs and stiff sway bars <==(Best choice for a daily driver)
As far as spring rate, for a Daily drive /weekend racer i hear tein S-techs are pretty damn good spring...they have the same spring rate as stock, preserving your comfortable ride, yet they lower the car about 1.5 inches. Lower center of gravity also = flatter cornering.
First thing i would do is get a rear sway bar...Ive always been told base model s14's of that year do NOT have rear sway bars...so look into that.
Thats likely a major reason your getting that shaking and oscilation in the rear after exiting a slalom.
Best way for you to tell if your bushings are bad is get your car up on a lift...and check your subframe componants for any excessive play and visually inspect them ^.^. Or just take it to an alignment shop and ask them, they will not align your car most of the time if some bushings are too worn out and they will tell you.
And yes, under 1500$ definetely.
Rear sway bar - 218$ http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
Bushings - 146$ (first set) http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
KYB AGX Struts - 492$ http://www.kybshocksonline.com...09079
Tein s-tech -Springs 200$ http://www.directtuning.com/st...By2=1
And install them yourself its really NOT that difficult, but if your uncomfortable people here WILL help you.
Whatever you decide on, get your parts first and dont worry about labor. Then come back here and we can help you, or direct you to VERY good guides on how to do it. Installing a sway bar is not difficult, replacing struts is not difficult. Springs are annoying but not difficult. and you will get such a great sense of accomplishment by doing it yourself.
Modified by Chukidori at 1:35 PM 5/20/2007
Modified by Chukidori at 1:38 PM 5/20/2007
Re: (joystick)
The sway bar may solve alot of your problems.
The oscillation your feeling in the rear end after hard maneuvers is likely due to the imbalance in load transfer since theres no sway bar there to keep it flat.
I think for what you want. What i said would be good for you. A thick sway bar /soft spring setup will allow you to keep your good daily ride, and since sway bars only come into effect during cornering...you still have great cornering performance.
And with the KYB AGX shocks you have 4 way adjustable dampening.
The oscillation your feeling in the rear end after hard maneuvers is likely due to the imbalance in load transfer since theres no sway bar there to keep it flat.
I think for what you want. What i said would be good for you. A thick sway bar /soft spring setup will allow you to keep your good daily ride, and since sway bars only come into effect during cornering...you still have great cornering performance.
And with the KYB AGX shocks you have 4 way adjustable dampening.
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240SX_Driven2
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 7:16 pm
Re: (Chukidori)
Chukidori, really fantastic advice. Thank you. I'm in a similar position and need to change the struts/shocks on my 1996 S14. Can I ask you a few clarifying questions?
1. Do I need a spring compressor to swap out my shocks/struts? I'm guessing yes, but wanted to confirm.
2. Are there any other special tools I'll need to do the job?
3. Is it easy to pull out the gunk that's left of my OEM bushings when I'm replacing them with Whiteline or Energy bushings, or is it such a hassle that I'll need to replace the control arms altogether? The guy at the dealership was trying to talking me out of changing the bushings alone, saying it's impossible to pull the old bushing material out.
Thanks in advance for your insight.
1. Do I need a spring compressor to swap out my shocks/struts? I'm guessing yes, but wanted to confirm.
2. Are there any other special tools I'll need to do the job?
3. Is it easy to pull out the gunk that's left of my OEM bushings when I'm replacing them with Whiteline or Energy bushings, or is it such a hassle that I'll need to replace the control arms altogether? The guy at the dealership was trying to talking me out of changing the bushings alone, saying it's impossible to pull the old bushing material out.
Thanks in advance for your insight.