s14 sr20det vs 1jzgte, 2jzgte daily driver

[dubvdrifter]

Hi everyone my names seth. I'm new to nico club. I am looking into getting a s14 soon. I was wondering which swap would be good for a reliable daily driver but it can hold its ground on the track every now and then. The main thing I'm looking for is a swap that would be able to go trips with no problems. I am not a newbie at swaps I've did a v8,ca18det,sr20det, and a rb. I was just looking for someone who's done these swaps before and know the reliability of them. Thanks for any info

[pepesilvia]

SR vs. 2jz?.... 2jzgte 9 times out of ten.... Its a fully forged motor ready to handle any abuse on and off the track.... if you can afford it...

[dubvdrifter]

Yea I know the sr vs 2jz is not a real battle. I'm mainly looking for something I can daily and it be reliable at about 500hp also be able to take a 7 hour trip to north Carolina once a year. ill be doing the swap once I get back from the army just getting some info now.

[waxdnuggz]

if your looking for 500hp reliable then think about a ls1 swap you can get 425whp not crank with a cam a good head job and intake and a damn good tune. however the torque will be around 525 which will feel like 600hp with a 2jz
500whp on an sr is not reliable regardless of what is done to it. it will never last 100k unless your not using it and your driving like a old women
500whp on a 2jz will only net around 375-400ft lbs maybe 425.

if your compairing the sr and a 2jz then your comparing a hyabusa and an automatic civic

ls1 will also be cheaper leaving you extra money for other stuff. plus 500hp on a 4 cyl sounds like death. your driving a bomb. i know that will get flamed so ill grab the bucket of water.

[dubvdrifter]

Yea I figured I'd get flamed that's why I posted it here instead of zilvia forms. I have also looked into a ls swap Just not my style of swap. I'm a boost junkie lol what's your input on a rb25 I've here there not reliable because of the oiling issues but some have found ways around it.

[waxdnuggz]

rb motors will cost more simply because they are not offered in america so people up the price for everything.
the rb25 and 26 are damn good motors dont get me wrong the 26 was actually built to have the s*** beat out of it and compete with the 1/2jz in japan. its more of a race motor then any other nissan motor in my opinion.

if it boiled down to 2jz or sr i would pic 2jz all day. spend the extra 500-1000 for a waaaayyyyyy better motor.
now if boost is what you want. look up a lsx lm7 or l33 its the 5.3 out of a truck. (iron block) everything ls1 bolts up to it. boost that thing with a hx40 from a cummins (pick on up for 250 off ebay) one of the best turbos there built to handle 30psi+ for 500k miles so 10psi wont do anything to it.

sr and 500 hp doesnt go together. yes it has been done. just like a 1000hp ka. but where is it now? being rebuild somewhere? or is it part of the beer can your drinking (recycled becuase it blew up)

[dubvdrifter]

I know what you mean personally I havd gad 4 ka's all went ka-boom. I swapped my friends rb20 it ran great just minor heating probs that we fixed and if anyone knows my friend he doesn't take it easy on anything its still running till this day 15psi later. His v8 and ka-t blew in no time. Really I'm looking to do another straight six the jz engines are pretty much bullet proof but ive seen alot of people doing th rb26 now days. I've seen a ls s14 with the same set-up I've just never been to lucky with motors that weren't turbo from stock

[TheRoadShark]

Yea I figured I'd get flamed that's why I posted it here instead of zilvia forms. I have also looked into a ls swap Just not my style of swap. I'm a boost junkie lol what's your input on a rb25 I've here there not reliable because of the oiling issues but some have found ways around it.

The RB oiling issue is actually blown way out of proportion. The issue is that the lands on the crank for the oil drive gear are usually too short, and at overly high or sustained high rpm, it tends to make the ring fail due to vibrations and not enough contact with the drive surface. On a stock RB, revved to stock rpm, odds are you'll never have that happen. The "more power" solution is to have the crank machined to allow a crank collar (usually like $150 for the collar) to be pressed on - fixes the lands-too-short problem. For "more power" AND "rev past stock redline", you'd do the crank collar, and use a stronger oil pump, and get a better harmonic balancer. One thing about the JZ is that, to my understanding, to get to 500HP, you'd have to get rid of the twins and go single turbo, and some custom fab exhaust work is needed cos the exhaust is on the ther side of the engine / car. It really comes down to preference in the end, even if it's "what would I rather hastle with".

I'm with ya on the boost over displacement. V8's get low milage no matter what. Boosted compacts only really guzzle fuel under boost. I have an RB25, and I know a guy with a 1J in his lexus - both are very streetable and road-trip-able when you dial the boost down, then just crank the boost up when you want fun. RB25 stuff isn't all that expensive if you know where to look. New for new, JZ stuff is more expensive than RB stuff alot of the time. Either one would be awesome.

I agree that if your goal is 500hp, you probably don't want an SR or a KA-T. RB25 or 1JZ would chew that up and spit it out like nothing. 2J's are amazing, but the price goes WAY up for a motorset compared to 1J or RB25, especially if you want the 6 speed transmission.

So yeah. RB25 or 1JZ is what I'd suggest.

[dubvdrifter]

Well with that awesome info. I think I'm going to stick with the rb its the easiest plus you can have a/c with a rb and ill look into that crank collar info you gave me if I plan on changing the rev limit. Plus the look on the v8 drivers face when he realizes his 5.3 5.0 or 5.7 got bet by a 2.5 is priceless. But it will mainly be just for daily use with alittle fun on the weekends. Thanks again for all the info

[TheRoadShark]

My RB is my daily, and as long as I stay out of boost I get pretty much the same milage as a KA. Also definitely not "too much" power for normal street traffic, but still fun even at a low 5psi. If you're planning on 500HP, I'd do the crank collar thing anyways. Not worth the risk, especially compared to the money that goes in to making it 500hp. Eventually I plan on going forged internals, and while I have the crank out I plan to have a collar installed. Totally worth it. While I'm stock at low boost tho, nah.

If you look in the RB section on here, a guy figured how to make RB + S13 a/c work using all Infinity J30 parts, with no modding required.

And yeah, always a good laugh when the dude next to you in the V8 can't pull away from an engine with half the displacement

[dubvdrifter]

Yea ill definitely be doing the collar later on. I was just thinking about using this brog warner my friend has laying around on low boost for a while. Thanks for the a/c info I've heard about it just haven't looked it up. Rhat would be great to not have to mod anything. How long have you been daily in your rb? And does it do good on trips if you've taking any yet?

[TheRoadShark]

It's been daily'd for around 3 months now. Driving hard for over an hour in hot hot heat, then stop and go traffic, then mad driving again, I've had no problems. I have yet to take it on any really long trips, but I don't expect any issues, considering how rough I am on the car in the city. If you look around in the RB section, there's a number of guys that daily RBs. Even ones with way more power than mine.

Here's how I figure it. A stock RB is a stock engine out of a stock car. I'm sure GTS-T's are both daily driven, and long distance driven in Japan / Austrailia all the time. And when you cram an RB into an S chassis, it has nearly the same weight, length, and width as an R33 GTS-T. So why would an RB in an S chassis not be a good daily / commuter? As long as the power is dialed down, it shouldn't be a problem. That's what boost controllers are for

[dubvdrifter]

That's good to hear. There's not really any traffic here so I wont really experience that. Also those are very good points about the use in Japan and Australia. I think the s14 is a couple hundred pounds lighter than the r33 for some reason I think it's around 3000 the s14 is like 2762

[TheRoadShark]

An S14 is around 300 lbs lighter than an R33 GTS-T (2700 for an S13, 2760 for an S14, 3060 for a GTS-T - rounding). But that's while the S14 has the KA24 in it. An RB25DET weighs around 200 lbs heavier than a KA24DE. So when you put the RB into an S, the weights are alot closer (S13 weighs 2900, S14 2960, vs R33 3060 - ish), especially considering the size difference btwn an S and an R33.

But at the same time, you're getting GTS-T power, but with a smaller, lighter chassis Someone posted something on here once about why putting an RB into an S doesn't actually "kill" the front / rear balance all that much. And you can offset some of it by doing things like putting the battery in the trunk. It's handy to do anyways to make room for intercooler piping.