S14 SR20det still stalls after BOV Recirculation

[J14cm7]

First of all i have a 95 S14 with an S14 Sr20det. List of mods:HKS SSQV BOVGreddy FMICstock MAFStock SR20

My car was doing the classic SR20 stall when it came to a stop. When you turned it on it idled fine and would idle fine after it recovered from a stop. I recirculated my BOV and still no change in the cars performance.

I did some research and most forums said to adjust the BOV. The HKS is non adjustable since apparently its supposed to adjust its self? I disconnected the Recirculation fitting during idle and the idle did drop and get rougher. There are no vaucuum leaks (usually between 20-22. Today was at 26 for a min)No boost spiking the Greddy boost controller is not hooked up so boost psi is around 8Here are some pics so i dont have to write a novel.



And please no "I think" or "probably" only comment if you know or have experience. And i know the hotpipe is rough looking but everything is sealed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

[spooled240]

i'm telling you, go blow-through! Even if your ic pipe pops off the mafs will be so close to the TB you could drive it home n/a lol

[J14cm7]

I looked into that and they say the MAF has to be at least 12 inches from the TB. And on my greddy cold pipe than is just not possible.

[spooled240]

i think you are thinking about the mafs being too close to the turbo? Mine might be 12 inches away..maybe less.

anyway, does your car stall if you disconnect the bov? (bov being closed all the time)

[J14cm7]

Is your MAF cold side or hot side?

[spooled240]

cold side, I don't think it would work on the hot side as it is a "hot wire" type mafs.

[J14cm7]

Im really worried that this is a completely seperate issue. Thats why I would like to figure out why the recirculation wouldnt fix it. It has all the EXACT symptoms or an uncirculated SR but the common solution didnt work.

[spooled240]

take off the vac line for your bov and see if it doesn't stall

[adrianfromthecastle]

I'm thinking the bov might be irrelevant to your stalling issue. HKS' are supposed to be one of the best closing bovs (uncirculated)

[J14cm7]

I disconnected the Recirculation pipe and the idle dropped and it wasnt a smooth idle. I have not tried taking the vacuum line off the BOV but wouldnt this cause a boost spike because pressure is not being released?

I'm thinking the bov might be irrelevant to your stalling issue. HKS' are supposed to be one of the best closing bovs (uncirculated)

I am starting to lean that way but now i dont know how to approach this. My idle is perfect so that rules out most other problems. I have read tons of threads on stalling issues where the recirculation solved the problem. The threads where it didnt the people adjusted their BOVs and that fixed it. Even people with HKS BOV but all thiers were the older ones that were adjustable. Unfortunatly my exact symptoms are the symptoms of an SR unrecirculated so im pretty much stumped.

All i know is the car is going into an extrememly rich state when it stalls/almost stalls on stops cause you can smell it.

Any help would be appreciated this is really the first time since i owned the car im at a loss for what to do.

[spooled240]

it will just cause compressor surge, not good for your turbo but if you're on stock boost you'll be fine. Does the stock SR even come with a bypass valve/OEM BOV?

compressor surge is over-exaggerated, especially if you're only on 8psi...even the guys that run 1000 hp on the 2jz's have compressor surge cuz the bov is so tight and only opens on super high boost lol

[adrianfromthecastle]

it will just cause compressor surge, not good for your turbo but if you're on stock boost you'll be fine. Does the stock SR even come with a bypass valve/OEM BOV?

compressor surge is over-exaggerated, especially if you're only on 8psi...even the guys that run 1000 hp on the 2jz's have compressor surge cuz the bov is so tight and only opens on super high boost lol

stock SR's do come with oem bypass valve. But yeah, my buddy's ka-t went without a bov for the longest (till I gave him my old hks ssqv v2)... and he had no turbo issues. Totally doable

[J14cm7]

it will just cause compressor surge, not good for your turbo but if you're on stock boost you'll be fine. Does the stock SR even come with a bypass valve/OEM BOV?

compressor surge is over-exaggerated, especially if you're only on 8psi...even the guys that run 1000 hp on the 2jz's have compressor surge cuz the bov is so tight and only opens on super high boost lol

I have stock for now but i usually i have it on a greddy boost controller turned up to 15psi which is about the limit for the SR. I just have it disconnected for troubleshooting purposes.

And yes the stock SR comes with a OEM BOV/bypass valve. but yea i will try disconnecting it and see if i still have a stall tomorrow now that i see the angle your getting at. Obviously just wont do any huge runs.

The Lancaster PA guys dont even run BOVs

[J14cm7]

Well I disconnected the BOV vacuum line and the stalling got A LOT better but after big runs it still wants to stall but its not like before when every time i stopped it would stall whether i drove it hard or not. Obviously compressor flutter was a lot worse under this set up. Unfortunately its about to storm so i cannot test it with the vacuum line off the BOV plugged up(Im an idiot and forgot which is probably whats causing the wanting to stall)

When the BOV is connected i still get compressor flutter at low rpms which tells me the BOV is not opening like it should which is where the adjustment comes into play but once again the the new HKS SSQV has no adjustment. So now i am at a complete loss as to what to do. It cant be a vacuum leak cause the vacuum is at 26. Also no boost spikes, boost is consistant around 8

What i am gathering from all this is that the BOV is not opening long enough or at all? Please any help would be appreciated I have searched and searched but no answers

[spooled240]

plug the vacuum line and re-test

[motoman399]

ya with the bov vac line disconnected and plugged it should not stall or even want to stall. if it does then for sure you have something else going on. maybe just to eliminate the chance of your bov leaking you can make a block off plate for it where it mounts. and then you will no that you dont have a faulty one.

just a question... do you have the right lines hooked up to your charge piping? i know on the ka's its a common mistake to hook the valve cover breather to the charge pipe.

[J14cm7]

I agree with you guys that there is no reason that the car should stall if i disconnect that line and plug it up. If its not raining in the morning ill try it before i head out if not though tom afternoon.

Im really starting to lean towards the fact that its a faulty BOV cause why else would i be getting compressor flutter at mid rpms if the BOV was operating correctly.

[motoman399]

Im really starting to lean towards the fact that its a faulty BOV cause why else would i be getting compressor flutter at mid rpms if the BOV was operating correctly.

well the bov opens with the help of two functions. one being vacuum source and the other is boost pressure. so its pushing and pulling at the same time. now i think the ssqv doesnt get the "pushing" from the boost in the charge pipe. (havent ever messed with one). if you are getting flutter at low rpm it means that the bov is closed (correct me if im wrong). so there for the bov should not be causing it to stall. but like i said maybe you can cut out a circle from a piece of steel and use it as a block off plate for the bov to completely get rid of it and know for sure its not the issue.

f***ing SR's

[spooled240]

how is the stock bypass valve routed? Is the recirc hose after the mafs or does it go into the air box?

[motoman399]

im almost positive it goes after the maf. i think he has it routed right.

honestly i think there is something else causing the problem. but if he would make the block off plate we could tell lol. so get on that shiz

[spooled240]

yeeeeeah c'mon slap

[J14cm7]

The way i have the BOV routed right now is the same inlet the stock bypass valve uses. I would agree with you guys on the fact that i have a seperate issue going on here but, every thread you look up that has to do with my symptoms is classic sr20 stall. I havent found a thread yet that has my symptoms and recirculating the BOV or adjusting the BOV didnt solve it.

SO dammit people all your free help is worthless lol.

Ill disconnect that BOV line and crimp it tom and let you know what the result is.

[J14cm7]

Well that is not the issue. Still runs exactly the same with the BOV connected or not. Just way more compressor flutter. Car still wants to stall out.

I am going to start approching this as if it were a non turbo car. Gordon might have been right on with the IACV thing. Im gonna clean it this weekend and see if that doesnt fix the problem.

[J14cm7]

And the winner is gordon with the IACV. It was adjusted all the way in so now it doesnt stall the least bit.

Thanks for your help guys

[spooled240]

the idle adjustment screw was closed?

i was just gonna tell you to check your idle adjustment lol i've adjusted them on a few of my friend's ka's

[J14cm7]

yea completely closed. FML. oh well she is running like a champ just in time for the track in two weeks.

[motoman399]

wow i didnt even think of that. i havent done any work on the iacv before so i know very little about them. i am going to take one apart soon and learn about it. glad you fixed it finally.

[J14cm7]

yea now it jsut has a mean backfire on decel that would make any ricer jealous. I am gonna mess with it somemore this weekend and see if i cant remedy that.

[spooled240]

remedy? wtf i'm TRYING to make my car backfire lmao

[J14cm7]

Lol well mess with the IACV apparently. I just dont like it going into a rich state like that. Worried about fuel washdown cause its really not good for the piston rings. Plus its obnoxious when you are trying to be on the downlow (cops in my township are d!ck).