s14 sr studdering backfiring problem

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black240sx96
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quickly b4 my lap top dies. recently i started looking for the problem with the studdering on my car. its VERY random where the car feels like it just dies for a split second and continues as if nothing happened. sometimes the dying happends on the constant studder followed by backfiring inbetween studdering. i started by checking the timing and re-grounding the tps because i noticed it wasnt grounded properly (thank you miami shops) and it stopped it from happening more often than pnot. always noticed that my temp gauge doesnt go to normal operating temp. the gauge will stay right above the C mostly touching the top of the C so i changed my temp. sensor and the gauge sensor and still the same thing. i am out of ideas. if anyone has had this problem or knows someone that had it please let me know of any possible solutions. thanks


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mexicanracer03
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Check your Spark Plugs, as well as your Fuel pressur/delivery.

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black240sx96
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Fuel pressure on the car idleing warm witht the vac connected to the intake is at 42 psi no problem. Spark plugs are 4 months old. Not even that old. Anything else...I am almost 100% sure that it was to do with a sensor or something electrical and the temp gauge is not showing the full operating temp that sucks.

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black240sx96
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come on guys i know im not the only one in the world that has or has had this problem. everytime i think i fixed it....its come back. its like herpis except i know this problem can go away! lol. BTW if you didnt noticed its an S14 with an s14 sr completely stock except a 255 fuel pump and a frount mount intercooler. and almost a gauge for EVERYTHING!. (almost)

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black240sx96
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come on guys i know im not the only one in the world that has or has had this problem. everytime i think i fixed it....its come back. its like herpis except i know this problem can go away! lol.and it only happens randomly while im driving. at idle sitting still it doesnt misfire or back fire or anything.

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mexicanracer03
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The Temp Gauge doesn't move that much, I noticed that my car would get above 190deg. and the gauge wouldn't even go half way. So right off the bat I knew that the gauge is no where near accurate. What I did was get an aftermarket gauge that Realy reads correct temp.

Anyways back to the subject. Have you checked the Injectors ?? What are you A/FR's on the wideband ? if it readying lean or rich ??

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mexicanracer03
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also Running Rich will cause you sparkplugs to go bad Quickly. It dosen't hurt to check them.

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black240sx96
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mexicanracer03 wrote:The Temp Gauge doesn't move that much, I noticed that my car would get above 190deg. and the gauge wouldn't even go half way. So right off the bat I knew that the gauge is no where near accurate. What I did was get an aftermarket gauge that Realy reads correct temp.

Anyways back to the subject. Have you checked the Injectors ?? What are you A/FR's on the wideband ? if it readying lean or rich ??
well my first gauge cluster the temp gauge was broken. i got an autometer that i connected to the top return hose. then since i found an se gauge cluster i put that in and it doesnt get above the C and the autometer gauge doesnt get close to 170* usually stays at about 150*. so i was driving for awhile earlier today to look at the a/f ratio wideband and not the road and i noticed that most of the time when i let off the gas prepering to stop it unregisters past 17 on the lean side ( --- ) and once im stopped it goes to about 14.9 to 15.6. also i notice that on first start up while its warming up its at about 15.9 to 16.8. both numbers are at idle. crusing at any given mph its between 14 and 15. hallin butt it sometime goes to rich about 11 to 12 at about 6.5 rpms. and sometimes it does the studdering sometimes it doesnt. and when it studders it sometimes goes lean to 15.9+ or sometimes to rich 11 to 12.9 or so. oil pressure doesnt seem to be effected and the water temp doesnt get higher that 155* if so it wont reach 170.and for everytime i get that studder the check engine light blinks with the misfire or whatever it is. hope these numbers help cuz it doesnt help me. and the misfire doesnt seem like its one piston it seems like the whole engine stops for a split second.

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mexicanracer03
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did you mess with the timeing at all ??? I would check that aswell.

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mexicanracer03
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the sputtering could be caused b/c it's going rich. the plugs get flooded and doen't burn all the fuel.

Try the Spark pluge NGK BKR7E and gap at 28-30

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black240sx96
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those are the ones i have in and gapped at that...the look kinda white tho...its not completely white but just a hint....and about the timing...the shop i had do my timing and they set it to be WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY off. i set it to the FSM specs.

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mexicanracer03
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so you took it to a shop and they didn't set the timming correctly. so how where you able to drive the car if the timming was not set properly ??

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black240sx96
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yes but it was way off... and the problem still existed so i checked what they did and put it at 15* BTDC they had it set to the other side of the wheel (no where near any of the tick marks.) it is still set at 15*BTDC and im rechecking my tps right as im typing.

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mexicanracer03
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your TPS will not make you engine back fire, and pop . it will only cause your throttle respons to be very Delayed......

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black240sx96
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good cuz my tps checked out.

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mexicanracer03
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if you can obtain an Ignitor from a friend try that.

and I would still change the spark plugs, on my 2j I change them about every month or 2 when I get on the throttle alot they will go quick.

Spark pluge aren't that much you can pick up a set for 9buck out the door.

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black240sx96
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maybe im not explaining the problem too clearly...lets say i disconnect my tps and turn the car on and start it. when you step on the gas it has a slight dely where the car seems like its going to turn of or not getting fuel. thats what happens to me but while im driving and very randomly. and the check engine light blinks when that skip happens and the car backfires sometimes because of it or if it is constant they the backfire will happen.

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black240sx96
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will a short video help you and or anyone else in tring to pin point this problem because i can drive around all day and try to video tape it so you know exactly what my problem is....btw how will do you know sr's cuz i noticed that you have a 2jz. (please dont take offence to my question just being curious and i truely thank you for all the time you have spent with me troble shooting.)

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black240sx96
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mexicanracer03 wrote:
and I would still change the spark plugs, on my 2j I change them about every month or 2 when I get on the throttle alot they will go quick.

Spark pluge aren't that much you can pick up a set for 9buck out the door.
i know but when you change them every week because i keep thinking its the spark plugs....it becomes a waste of money.

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mexicanracer03
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correct but you said they are 2months old. Has the car been sitting for a while ?? if so you will foul the plugs very quick with bad gas.

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black240sx96
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heres the video sorry it took a bit and its long but notice the spuddering and sometimes it backfires because of the spuddering

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbVwieoAtQc

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black240sx96
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mexicanracer03 wrote:correct but you said they are 2months old. Has the car been sitting for a while ?? if so you will foul the plugs very quick with bad gas.
actually no the car hasnt sat for more than 12 hours... its my daily. i will change the spark plugs but i know for a fact that it wont make it better because that was the first thing i did about 4 months ago when i kept trying to fix this problem...but i will change them now that the car is cold.

and i know you cant see the gauges but im going to try and see if you can see it better later tonight because it was bright as hell outside today.

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black240sx96
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spark plugs changed...result....no change

did you check out the video.
Modified by black240sx96 at 2:12 AM 3/16/2009

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mexicanracer03
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have you checked for vaccume leaks ??

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black240sx96
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boost leaks...not really sure how to check for vac leaks.

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mexicanracer03
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for vaccume leaks you can use break cleaner, carb cleaner, maf cleaner and lightly spray around the vaccume lines.

if you idle goes up when spraying in a cirtain hose then that hose is brocken or loose.

do that and we'll see what happens

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mexicanracer03
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black240sx96 wrote:boost leaks...not really sure how to check for vac leaks.
Do you have a standalone where you can lean the car out under boost.

It seemed as if you where too rich under boost. I realy couldn't see the gauge b/c of the glare. LMK that happens just don't take out too much fuel.

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black240sx96
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mexicanracer03 wrote:
Do you have a standalone where you can lean the car out under boost.

It seemed as if you where too rich under boost. I realy couldn't see the gauge b/c of the glare. LMK that happens just don't take out too much fuel.
no i dont have a standalone. this is a completely stock motor etc. the only thing i have different from the way they come is that i dont have a side mount. i have a fmic. and from what i have noticed it only goes rich when i push in the clutch when letting off the gas to switch gears and then it goes lean. in the mean time while im on the gas its between 14.2 and 15.6. thats why im wondering wtf. it might be a vac leak...unfortunely im at work right now so i cant check that yet.

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mexicanracer03
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what do you mean I don't know SR ???

zer...-s145

ok well check for leaks and we'll see.

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black240sx96
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i didnt say you dont know sr's i was asking if you knew sr's....lol....as in if yourve worked extensively with sr's....


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