Background: My car is a 92 fastback with a KA24DE 5-speed powertrain. I have located an S14 DE motor with an auto transmission that I want to build for KA-T while still driving on my current motor...Just want someone to clarify please!
So I have found a really good article about swapping an S14 KA24DE into an S13 with a KA24E. I am looking for the same type of writeup to swap it into a KA24DE S13 since there are some significant differences in the E and DE.
All the searches I have found are scattered and not clearly defined as to what exactly is needed. Seems a lot of different opinions exist and I would like to get first hand info from someone who has done this swap on their car.
I understand that the S13 is OBD I and the S14 is OBD II so I will need to keep the old distributer, knock sensor, and lower intake manifold (something about the S14 having dual butterflies on manifold?) and wiring harness/ECU. Also the S13 cams are a +.
I also read that the S14 manual transmission has got an extra electrical connector on it, but it is not mentioned if I can bolt my S13 5-speed to the S14 motor since my transmission evidently does not have this extra plug (what is this for). I also read something about the CAS needing to be changed as well as some differences in the valve cover.
I would appreciate it if someone can confirm these things and provide some clarification on the issue. I have searched a lot, but right now I am at the point that I would like someone to clarify it a little instead of blindly relying on several random posts by seveal different people (which have contradicting information).
Thanks!Jon
S14 KA24DE into S13 DE. Searched
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Charlie240sxt
- Posts: 1089
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2003 1:49 pm
- Car: 95 240sx SE Ka24det!!! 98 audi A4
- Contact:
Ok the s14 ka will go in just fine. The BEST way to do your swap being you have a s13 with s13 Ka24de and you wanting to go to a s14 ka24de right?
Use ONLY the s14 block and head use the s13 intake and exhust mani's and s13 diss the s14 transmission is diff(but can be used no problem) and has a crank angle thing on the top of the bell houseing but can be used in the s13 just fine it just wont be pluged into anything.
and yes the s13 cams are alittle better here a little link for thathttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/62997
Also not all s14 are obo II most the 95s are obo I if not all of them
Modified by Charlie240sxt at 9:52 PM 11/4/2006
Use ONLY the s14 block and head use the s13 intake and exhust mani's and s13 diss the s14 transmission is diff(but can be used no problem) and has a crank angle thing on the top of the bell houseing but can be used in the s13 just fine it just wont be pluged into anything.
and yes the s13 cams are alittle better here a little link for thathttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/62997
Also not all s14 are obo II most the 95s are obo I if not all of them
Modified by Charlie240sxt at 9:52 PM 11/4/2006
Re: (Charlie240sxt)
Charlie,
Yeah, I currently have an S13 w/ S13 KA24DE and want to rebuild a S14 ('95) KA24DE motor. I will have to use my old (S13) transmission because the other on the S14 motor is an auto. I read a few posts that people were having trouble with the driveshafts lining up with the transmission, but it was not clear which motor and transmission combination they were attempting to use.
Also Do you know how I can tell if the motor is OBD I (it is out of a 95) if it is already out of the car?? This could greatly simplify things. I assume if it is an OBD I it will look identical to my motor in every way? or will I see some differences. I apologize but I don't know much about the S14 besides what I read here.
Anyway, assuming it is an OBD II, All I really want is the block and head anyway so I can build that...are these (block + head) interchangeable with my current motor as well as the S13 5-Speed?
Thanks for your input, I just want to be sure about it before I build a motor that is not compatible with my car.
Yeah, I currently have an S13 w/ S13 KA24DE and want to rebuild a S14 ('95) KA24DE motor. I will have to use my old (S13) transmission because the other on the S14 motor is an auto. I read a few posts that people were having trouble with the driveshafts lining up with the transmission, but it was not clear which motor and transmission combination they were attempting to use.
Also Do you know how I can tell if the motor is OBD I (it is out of a 95) if it is already out of the car?? This could greatly simplify things. I assume if it is an OBD I it will look identical to my motor in every way? or will I see some differences. I apologize but I don't know much about the S14 besides what I read here.
Anyway, assuming it is an OBD II, All I really want is the block and head anyway so I can build that...are these (block + head) interchangeable with my current motor as well as the S13 5-Speed?
Thanks for your input, I just want to be sure about it before I build a motor that is not compatible with my car.
Re: (tonynalli)
Yeah, I searched by the topics you created but it is not coming up. What did you title it??
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maroon240
- Posts: 961
- Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 12:41 pm
- Car: Cyan 95 S14 sold
91 hatch s13 sold
84 300zx 2 seater sold
99 pontiac grand am gt current DD - Location: Minot AFB ND
- Contact:
Re: (Zion8561)
so your telling me a need the s13 lower intake mani,exaust headers and a god damn knock sensor. fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuckkkkkkkkkkkkkkk how much do you think all of this will cost ? should i just go buy a sr20
Re: (maroon240)
KA parts are "dime a dozen" at junk yards. You might need the whole intake manifold...and see if you can snag the throttle body as well while you are there (I was not able to determine if it is needed or not, but i remember someone talking about it). Dont forget the distributor also. That is if you are going to use the S13 OBD I ECU/Harness.
I am not 100% positive about the parts needed yet, but I have done extensive searches here.
Update, I found that the early '95 models use "an early version of OBD II" but still have no specifics. It also seems that the block and head are the same between the two models, besides some trivial differences, and of course the cams. I believe the oil pump is situated differently, but that shouldn't affect anything, and there is a mounting bolt that is swapped from the head to block (or vise versa).
Main differences are in the engine control and harness (S14 has a single harness going to the vehicle side), intake manifold (S13 has the butterflies), and exhaust manifold is completely different. I read that the CAS (S14 5 Speed transmission) is for OBD purposes only and will not have any effect on the operation of the motor. There are also differences in the drive shafts, but I will be suing the original 5 speed so I should not have any problems with that.
Some one correct me if I am wrong or left something out. This is my basic understanding after reading dozens of threads over the past couple of days. Thanks.
I am not 100% positive about the parts needed yet, but I have done extensive searches here.
Update, I found that the early '95 models use "an early version of OBD II" but still have no specifics. It also seems that the block and head are the same between the two models, besides some trivial differences, and of course the cams. I believe the oil pump is situated differently, but that shouldn't affect anything, and there is a mounting bolt that is swapped from the head to block (or vise versa).
Main differences are in the engine control and harness (S14 has a single harness going to the vehicle side), intake manifold (S13 has the butterflies), and exhaust manifold is completely different. I read that the CAS (S14 5 Speed transmission) is for OBD purposes only and will not have any effect on the operation of the motor. There are also differences in the drive shafts, but I will be suing the original 5 speed so I should not have any problems with that.
Some one correct me if I am wrong or left something out. This is my basic understanding after reading dozens of threads over the past couple of days. Thanks.
Re: (tonynalli)
Tonynalli,
Yeah, the motor is out of a 95. I am going to go and look at it again on Tuesday so I can really look at everything to make sure it is the same motor (OBD I)
Do you have a link to that write up you did, couldnt find it.
I am really looking forward to building a motor over the winter
Yeah, the motor is out of a 95. I am going to go and look at it again on Tuesday so I can really look at everything to make sure it is the same motor (OBD I)
Do you have a link to that write up you did, couldnt find it.
I am really looking forward to building a motor over the winter
wtf...i just checked and its been deleted. i guess the mods really must hate me. **** they delete all my other threads. anyways...
alright here we go
start off by looking at the car old motor and and wish it was working..i kno i didstart to drain your fluids...oil, radiator, and transmission fluid...there will be more that will come out of either the motor or the transmission...its called gravity..it happens.remove the intake and unplug the MAF[img]https://forum-attachments.sfo2.digital ... 4.jpg[/imgpull out the radiator after all the fluids are drained. and remove the brake booster lineset your timing mark to TDC..and make sure your rotor is on the 1st cylynder like it is on this mark...notice the lines match up..mine does it and im note sure if your does...but be sure to mark it when its in and mark it when it popps out..it will twist..
unplug the injector wires and ever other plug and get it out of the way of the motor...make sure all the starter wires are out of the way and alternator also..dont forget, with out this decal is just wont work...lol..jkremove ths transmission cross member and unplug and get any of the wires out of the way...dont forget you will need thisif you havnt already removed this then now is the easiest time to do so..unbolt the ac and the powerstering pump and get it out of tthe way..if you are going to keep the ac then dont remove it from the car, unless you plan on recharging the system...you wont need to remove the bracket from the ac pump till its out of the car...you can drain the ps fluid and get that out of the way..remove the bolts on your exaust manifold as you will be using it when you put the other motor in...dont forget to remove the egr pipe...get under the car and remove the 4 bolts that go into the rear end... and put out the drive shaft...get ready with a towel to catch the fluid that comes out of the end of it..remove the shifter out of the inside of the carsushi is a great lunch food..make sure you use this spot on your head to put the chain on to the hoist.make one last check to make sure you didnt forget anything...like heaterhose lines and any sensors off the motor, dont forget the motor mount nuts either..with a friends help have either him or you run the engine hoist and you get under the car and guide the transmission out of the hole...or if you just wanna pull the transmission off the motor you can do that..i chose to pull it out in a whole...and voilia its gone..make sure when you are guiding the motor out to check and double check 100 times to make sure there is nothing that is holding it down..its a big f'n mess...but now if you want to clean the enigne bay out with some cans of gunk.get the other motor in the air to make it easier to work on...now if you want to have AC then you will need to remove the bracket from your s13 motor and put it on your s14 block.also remove the temperature sensor along with the spade connector from teh s13 and put it in your new motoryou can weld in a nickle in the hole where the EGR pipe came out of..or just use jb weld.. to further strenghten the hold just screw the pipe "thingy" into the bung to make it hold better. and just leave it in..and do the same with where it goes into the intake...the heater hoses are in different locations then the s13 are...so you can reuse one of the hoses from the s13 and then you will jsut have to go and buy some heater hose from the parts store and run it into the side of the block.now carfully guide the motor and transmission into the car with the hoist..when its about half way in attach the heater hoses.you will need to do some playing around with the motor to get it to fit in right and then once one side is in then put the nut on the mount but only thread it down about 2-3 turns and get the other bolt in and tighten them down..now bolt up the PS pump and the ac and attacht the belts attach the manifold and tighten the nuts downattach the harness to teh injectors, tps, cas,temp sensor,and the alternator and starters wires...and any other wires i forgot to mentionattach all the hoses and insert the radiator and tighten everything down...reatach the transmission crossmember and plug all nessecary plugs in the transmission..and put the driveshaft back in and bolt it up to the differential..
now for the fun part..make sure you new motor is on TDC but checking pulling the no1 spark plug out and putting a screw driver in and cranking the crank over(or if you were smart and put it on TDC when the other distributor was in) and when the screw driver is all the way as high as it can go then your at tdc..make sure that you are on the I i I I I I the lower case is TDC...if you can visualize it... and put the distributor in..make sure you are on your marks and carfully slide her in...when its in put the bolts in but dont tightnen that all the way..now fill your transmission up with fluids and also your engine with oill.. now start filling the radiator with 100% radiator fluid...you will need to air out the system.. and unless you have some special tool to get all the air out then youll need to put 100%..with the cars front still up fil it up, as soon as the level goes down continue to fill it up...connect the spark plug wires in the proper places and turn the key..and if you did it all right it should start up..if not check all your sensors and plugs and wires...when if gets started up run the car and let the rad. fluid go down and keep filling it up.. when it get warm it will start to bubble over dont just think your done with that..turn onthe heater to full blast and keep filling it..unscrew the screw on top where the upper rad. hose connects to the head and leave about 2 threads attached and keep doign it..this is why i told you to put 100 % in because you then want to fill it up with water, cause a lot will bubble out.. it may take up to an hour of filling it up..but be paitent..when you are done take her for a spin and have fun...im sure there are some things that i missed in this write up justlet me kno as this is my first one that i have done before and i will edit it.. ohh one other thing..dont forget to have a tool ***** on hand at all times...they make it fun
alright here we go
start off by looking at the car old motor and and wish it was working..i kno i didstart to drain your fluids...oil, radiator, and transmission fluid...there will be more that will come out of either the motor or the transmission...its called gravity..it happens.remove the intake and unplug the MAF[img]https://forum-attachments.sfo2.digital ... 4.jpg[/imgpull out the radiator after all the fluids are drained. and remove the brake booster lineset your timing mark to TDC..and make sure your rotor is on the 1st cylynder like it is on this mark...notice the lines match up..mine does it and im note sure if your does...but be sure to mark it when its in and mark it when it popps out..it will twist..
unplug the injector wires and ever other plug and get it out of the way of the motor...make sure all the starter wires are out of the way and alternator also..dont forget, with out this decal is just wont work...lol..jkremove ths transmission cross member and unplug and get any of the wires out of the way...dont forget you will need thisif you havnt already removed this then now is the easiest time to do so..unbolt the ac and the powerstering pump and get it out of tthe way..if you are going to keep the ac then dont remove it from the car, unless you plan on recharging the system...you wont need to remove the bracket from the ac pump till its out of the car...you can drain the ps fluid and get that out of the way..remove the bolts on your exaust manifold as you will be using it when you put the other motor in...dont forget to remove the egr pipe...get under the car and remove the 4 bolts that go into the rear end... and put out the drive shaft...get ready with a towel to catch the fluid that comes out of the end of it..remove the shifter out of the inside of the carsushi is a great lunch food..make sure you use this spot on your head to put the chain on to the hoist.make one last check to make sure you didnt forget anything...like heaterhose lines and any sensors off the motor, dont forget the motor mount nuts either..with a friends help have either him or you run the engine hoist and you get under the car and guide the transmission out of the hole...or if you just wanna pull the transmission off the motor you can do that..i chose to pull it out in a whole...and voilia its gone..make sure when you are guiding the motor out to check and double check 100 times to make sure there is nothing that is holding it down..its a big f'n mess...but now if you want to clean the enigne bay out with some cans of gunk.get the other motor in the air to make it easier to work on...now if you want to have AC then you will need to remove the bracket from your s13 motor and put it on your s14 block.also remove the temperature sensor along with the spade connector from teh s13 and put it in your new motoryou can weld in a nickle in the hole where the EGR pipe came out of..or just use jb weld.. to further strenghten the hold just screw the pipe "thingy" into the bung to make it hold better. and just leave it in..and do the same with where it goes into the intake...the heater hoses are in different locations then the s13 are...so you can reuse one of the hoses from the s13 and then you will jsut have to go and buy some heater hose from the parts store and run it into the side of the block.now carfully guide the motor and transmission into the car with the hoist..when its about half way in attach the heater hoses.you will need to do some playing around with the motor to get it to fit in right and then once one side is in then put the nut on the mount but only thread it down about 2-3 turns and get the other bolt in and tighten them down..now bolt up the PS pump and the ac and attacht the belts attach the manifold and tighten the nuts downattach the harness to teh injectors, tps, cas,temp sensor,and the alternator and starters wires...and any other wires i forgot to mentionattach all the hoses and insert the radiator and tighten everything down...reatach the transmission crossmember and plug all nessecary plugs in the transmission..and put the driveshaft back in and bolt it up to the differential..
now for the fun part..make sure you new motor is on TDC but checking pulling the no1 spark plug out and putting a screw driver in and cranking the crank over(or if you were smart and put it on TDC when the other distributor was in) and when the screw driver is all the way as high as it can go then your at tdc..make sure that you are on the I i I I I I the lower case is TDC...if you can visualize it... and put the distributor in..make sure you are on your marks and carfully slide her in...when its in put the bolts in but dont tightnen that all the way..now fill your transmission up with fluids and also your engine with oill.. now start filling the radiator with 100% radiator fluid...you will need to air out the system.. and unless you have some special tool to get all the air out then youll need to put 100%..with the cars front still up fil it up, as soon as the level goes down continue to fill it up...connect the spark plug wires in the proper places and turn the key..and if you did it all right it should start up..if not check all your sensors and plugs and wires...when if gets started up run the car and let the rad. fluid go down and keep filling it up.. when it get warm it will start to bubble over dont just think your done with that..turn onthe heater to full blast and keep filling it..unscrew the screw on top where the upper rad. hose connects to the head and leave about 2 threads attached and keep doign it..this is why i told you to put 100 % in because you then want to fill it up with water, cause a lot will bubble out.. it may take up to an hour of filling it up..but be paitent..when you are done take her for a spin and have fun...im sure there are some things that i missed in this write up justlet me kno as this is my first one that i have done before and i will edit it.. ohh one other thing..dont forget to have a tool ***** on hand at all times...they make it fun
Re: (tonynalli)
Ok just worked a deal to get the 95 KA24DE and transmission for $200 delivered. Now I just need to find an engine hoist and stand, then let the games begin.
Thanks for linking the write up again Tonynalli. I guess some of the pics will be self explanitory as I start tearing into it. I agree that sushi is an awesome lunch food. hehe.
I cant quite tell where you got the hoist hooked up. What is the best spot to handle the weight of the motor and transmission?
Thanks for linking the write up again Tonynalli. I guess some of the pics will be self explanitory as I start tearing into it. I agree that sushi is an awesome lunch food. hehe.
I cant quite tell where you got the hoist hooked up. What is the best spot to handle the weight of the motor and transmission?