s14 ka24de diagnose

[doomedfob]

Hey everyone, I've been working on a ka rebuild for my s14 for quite some time. I've never rebuilt a motor so this was my first rebuild. I had no mentor or anyone watch over me while I was building, but I did get most of my info on forums/chiltons manual/fsm. Rebuilt the motor to stock specs. put the motor in, turned over started, but died. went through some forums to figure out what was wrong and I got it running decent, but with terrible idle and hessitation. a couple of days ago I drove the car around the block, sat there for a good day or two and now the car wont fire up at all. It turns, and sometimes it sounds like the starter is seizing up (this just recently started to happen)
I'm getting fuel, (will check spark) but I'm getting really frustrated with it. I'm at a point where I need someone that could just get this thing running for me. I am completely stumped being what is wrong with the motor. If anyone is in the bay area and had experience with rebuilds, ka motors or just motors in general and is willing to help me out with getting it to run, I will pay you in cash, parts or whatever.



shoot a pm or give me a call/text/voicemail text or email is preferred due to my stupid phone and its mic.


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Update 12/7
Did a compression test, but due to the car not being able to start up I couldn't do a warm compression test, so numbers these numbers are when the motor was cold
Cyl
1. 90
2.40
3.105
4.105
0_0 they're all extremely low, but before I tear the block apart I'm wondering if the reason why they're low is because of the rings have not broken in yet (or may have broken in the process of D:)
I am getting fuel and my spark plugs are carbon fouled as feck. If I'm supposed to tear the block down (which I prob have to do) what I should do is: tear the block down and inspect rings, head gasket, bent valves. If there is any other things I should be inspecting let me know!
-- extra note: did the test with and without putting a cap of oil in and cyl stayed at the same numbers

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I would definitely start by checking your valve timing. If it sounds like the starter is seizing up, it could be because the stroke/valve timing is a bit messed up, and you are getting compression when you aren't supposed to, etc.

Put the engine at TDC, pop the valve cover off, and check that the cams are at between 9 and 10 o clock on the intake side, and 2 and 3 o clock on the exhaust side on cyl 1 (or cylinder 4 if you're 180 out).

[SoCal-S13]

when you did the comp test you had the throttle wide open, correct?

[doomedfob]

Timing was off before, but I re-timed it and got the notches on the direct spot. Will take off valve cover tomorrow to check timing again. I did the compression test with the throttle wide open.

[liquid_cool]

this could be many issues bro..could be a bad coil..bad dizzy..ignitor chip..or timing..lets start with timing...#1 cylinder should be at tdc (Top Dead Center) the cams should be pointed away from eachother but verry slightly up and exactly 8 links from each pin on the cams that hold the cam gear on..if this is no so..then change it and try again..after that is done..rotate the crack backwards past the 20 degree (befor top dead center) mark..then forwards to it..that way all the slack is out of the upper chain before you set your dizzy to fire on #1..test start the car and let us know what ya have goin on from there.

[liquid_cool]

P.S. I recomend you getting the book (How to blueprint your engine) its a SA brand book found at any book store for $20 bucks..you will learn more from that small book than you will from any forum..