s13 Wide Wheels/tires HELP

[obarrera]

Hi, im getting some wheels for my car in a littler over a month but I need some help, im looking for some wide wheels, preferably some deep dish wheels, but im not sure about the price..

I wanna spend around $2,000, I don't know what I can do with this amount of money, this is what I want to do, lower my car, get some nice wide wheels/tires, and buy some fender flares, no idea how much all this would cost me, please help me out!

This is kinda how I want my car to look, wide wheels, and they look kinda tilted, not sure what makes wheels look like this?(NEWB) and if this is your car, sorry, just thought it was a great example of what I want...

[ashibah83]

camber is why they look tiltedif you want that look it will cost well more than $2000 if you do it right

please search this has been coverd 1000 times

[obarrera]

Sorry, searching is a little hard, I never find specific answers to any questions I might have.

I was looking at these wheels http://phase2motorsports.store....html I think it's a pretty good price, I want atleast 18" wheels, but cosidering the price, I might go with 17's, if I want some 18/19" deep dish wheels I would have to do the 5 lug conversion right?

If I go with the ones I linked, they would cost me a little over $660.00, plus like $400.00 for tires, that's $1,060, plus the rear cambers you mentioned, they probably cost arounf what, $390.00 I don't really know.

That would be around $1,450, plus what I spend on lowring the car..please let me know if im missing something?

[ashibah83]

"cambers" are not parts, it is a measurement specific to suspensionits read in degrees either positive or negativecamber is how much a wheel is tilted in or out, the car in that pictur has massive NEGATIVE camber causing the top of the wheels to tilt toward each other

how far are you wanting to lower the car???2inches??? slammed???look into spring strut combos or coilovers decide on what you want and budget from there

depending on how far you lower the car you might need RUCA's(rear upper control arms) to adjust camber or even more aftermarket suspension arms(which arent cheap mine were right at $850)

if you want more choices on wheel sizes and offsets then do a 5 lug swap and some good brakes

like i said if you do it right it will cost well more than 2grand

i bought Stance GR+ coilovers(1100) and battle version suspension arms(850) so thats $1950 and im still pimpin the stock 15 inch steelies

and i suggest you read some of the stickies on suspension on this board

[adrianfromthecastle]

Sorry, searching is a little hard, I never find specific answers to any questions I might have.

I was looking at these wheels http://phase2motorsports.store....html I think it's a pretty good price, I want atleast 18" wheels, but cosidering the price, I might go with 17's, if I want some 18/19" deep dish wheels I would have to do the 5 lug conversion right?

If I go with the ones I linked, they would cost me a little over $660.00, plus like $400.00 for tires, that's $1,060, plus the rear cambers you mentioned, they probably cost arounf what, $390.00 I don't really know.

That would be around $1,450, plus what I spend on lowring the car..please let me know if im missing something?

wow... you've got a lot of learning to do.

damn... I dont even know where to start.

1) if you wan't that kind of stance, you'll either need coilovers and rear upper control arms... or you can just get coilovers and play your luck and just slam the car with it (the suspension geometry negates the camber when lowered. The lower you go, the more negative camber you'll get). Lowering springs and struts won't get near that kind of stance. Coilovers alone will cost you from $800-1000+ (depending on brand). Rear upper control arms can cost $180+ (depending on brand)

2) those wheels that you linked are NOT deep lipped. Frankly, they're bootlegs of the SSR SP1 professors. You want something deep and similarly styled... get some Work Meister S1's in a super gangster offset. Ofcourse, you get a wider selection of wheels when you go 5 lug tho... (unless you buy brand new from the manufacturer, then the option is yours)



3) you'll need fender work to fit such agressive profile (note the fender). Same car btw...

Theres really no easy way through it, I mean, I can try tell you specific specs and you can just write it down on a peice of paper, then go to youre local JDM store and see if the parts guy can read your hand writing..

or

you can just start out slow and one by one. Start out by getting your supension squared away.

oh, and unless you have uber hook-ups on products, a $2000 budget might not cut it

Just my .02

[obarrera]

Thanks a lot for the info both of you..

And yes I've got a lot to learn jaja.

Im not sure how low I want my car, I guess it depends on what size wheels I get? I want the tire to be where the fender is at, or just a LITTLE under inside the fender, just like the pic you posted(and yeah I know it's the same car, I love that car, I have most of the pictures lol)..

So i can't really do what I want with this amount of money, what if I don't want the wheels tilted(YET), and just buy some nice deep dish wheels(the ones you linked r great but they go for like $2,400 =/ ), tires, and lower the car, can I do that with $2,000?

Let's see, I would have to buy some 5 lug Hubs, wheels, tires, and whatever I need to lower the car, and depending on what wheels I get I might need some fender work?

Some guy is selling his 300zx's hubs, can I use these on my car, or do they have to be specifically for an s13??Here they are http://sandiego.craigslist.org....html

Im gonna keep reading tommorow.

Thanks

[smocan]

i hope you have coilovers to go with those 2000 dollar wheels... especially if your going to run aggressive sizes.

[obarrera]

Im not gonna buy $2000 wheels

[adrianfromthecastle]

start out by getting coilovers.

5 lug hubs are down the road.

[obarrera]

I think the best ones I could find for the price are these http://topspeedautopart.com/me....html

If I buy the coilovers, I won't need lowering springs anymore? Why are coilovers so important? Are you reccomending me coilovers because I want to lower my car, or because I want wide wheels?? Please explain this to me.

I was looking at these wheels(only thing is I would get silver NOT gold), these look pretty good, not deep dish, but pretty wide, which is what I want.

[ashibah83]

coilovers are the ONLY way to lower your car enough to have the stance you want. No you wont need lowering springs, the coilovers have springs included with them.

If your looking at the MR coils i would suggets you buy through Enjuku Racing( http://www.enjukuracing.com )i have dealt with them and there great guys.

oh...what wheels???

[obarrera]

Yup I plan on buying them from enjukuracing, just couldn't linked them from there so I linked them from another site. Ok, so im starting to understand how all this works, thanks

These are the wheels(forgot to post the link)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...8.lVI

[ashibah83]

yeah enjuku are a bunch of good guys, i just purchased $4000 worth of parts from them and they jumped through hoops to get my order, great guys now in order for those wheels to look flush, you will probably need spacers maybe a 25mm up front and like a 10-15mm out back but im not really sure on the sizes

the other thing is are you buying any suspension arms??? Rucas???

[smocan]

Im not gonna buy $2000 wheels

Then you wont get the stance you want... especially for 2000 total, including suspension.

Adrian made it easy to understand in his post, plenty of info for you to take in.

In order to get a stance like herb, your gonna have to buy wheels with close to perfect sizing, which means, wheels that cost almost as much as your spending... or buy a used set on here for cheaper.

Dont bother with spacers and extended studs, because of the sound of this thread, it seems like your not too hands on or educated with cars, atleast 240s and it will just cause you more trouble in the future. Its not hard to learn what sizes have what look on our cars, especially since there are hundreds of wheel fitment threads on the web today.

So if this is what you want, your gonna need more money.

[obarrera]

ashibah83, ofcourse, you're spending $4,000! lol jk, it does looks like a good place to order parts from.Do I NEED supension arms??Thanks a lot for the info!Oh and almost forgot, do you have any idea how much someone would charge for installation of the coilovers? I might be able to do it my self, but don't want to risk it, might end up worse.

smocan, yeah I understand, I don't really care bout stance anymore, knowing how expensive it is, I just want some wide wheels/tires, the wheels I linked are 9.5" wide, and 4 lug, perfect for me, no need to spend money on hubs or anything. BTW, what kind of problems would I have if I buy spacers and extended studs?

[ashibah83]

for the suspension arms i would recommend at LEAST RUCA's(rea upper control arms) that way you can adjust your camber for you tires wont wear out in 3 months, and depending on how much you lower it you may need toe arms, but at least get RUCA's

if you have a shop do it (if they will) it will probably be the same ammount of labor to do struts which according to ALLDATA is almost 5 hrs so around $500 but it may be cheaper, stil if you can i would do it myself, and remember after you get them installed your gonna need an alignment

spacers could cause a vibration it there not vehicle specific other than that i dont really see any problem with them, i have spacers and a stud kit on my VW and i have a minor vibration but thats all

[adrianfromthecastle]

In regards to install: Please dont have a shop install your coilovers. When you find out how easy it is to install them, you'll slap yourself for even considering having someone else do it. IMO, suspension parts in general are easy to install. Not nearly as technical or nerve racking as engine parts. Only thing you'll probably need other than your ratchet set is a breaker bar or some kinda plumbing pipe for more torque. Oh, and maybe a rubber hammer to bang on the breaker bar or pipe, LOL. Just an FYI, I have the most incomplete tool set, its not even funny. Yet, I still get the job done.

Spacers: Hubcentric spacers, eh, imo theyre over rated for something that's just gonna be hitting the freeway at the most. Sure theyre safer for the tracks or high speeds or whatnot, but I've been rocking 10mm non hubcentric sliding spacers for god knows how long, and I've had no problems. My usual rule of thumb though: 10mm or less = sliding spacers and ext. studs. 15mm or more = go with bolt on spacers.

Oh and by the way, if you slam your ride, you may wanna consider getting some aftermarket tie rods and tie rod ends w/ the spacers to adjust your caster and avoid "bump steer" and to get that steering angle you'd want. People think that tie rod end spacers allow a more steering angle, but its just giving back whats been taken away when you slam your ride.

[whiterps13]

Just to clarify on some of the above comments..

Camber isnt what really kills tire wear. When you increase negative camber without adjusting anything else, you increase toe. Toe is what kills tires on lowered cars.

Other than that adrian has covered it...

[obarrera]

Ok thanks a lot for the info, it really helped, unfortunately it looks like im gonna be stuck with the stock wheels for longer then I was planning, I have enough money for the coilovers, and RUCA's, and maybe the tie rods...I wasn't expecting this.lol no wonder I don't see too many S13's, or others cars lowered, and at the same time have some nice wheels.lol

[smocan]

Just to clarify on some of the above comments..

Camber isnt what really kills tire wear. When you increase negative camber without adjusting anything else, you increase toe. Toe is what kills tires on lowered cars.

Other than that adrian has covered it...

No, camber DOES kill tires, as well as toe. I dont know where you got this from.

Take it from the last 2 sets of tires, got an alignment with perfect toe, wack camber = uneven wear.

Its not a hard concept if you understand suspension and can visualize it.

Edit* I would also point out, that i have used lugcentric spacers which ended up in stripped studs, thats the only reason i stated above stay away from spacers and extended studs. Just one less thing to worry about.

I have hubcentric ones now and have no problems. Just stating from my experience but like adrian said, usually lugcentric work fine without problems, just use quality parts.

Also, i agree with adrian on the ease of installing suspension on our cars, the hardest part is loosening rusted bolts, but an impact wrench makes it even easier, finished installing my coils in alittle under an hour.

[ashibah83]

No, camber DOES kill tires, as well as toe. I dont know where you got this from.

Take it from the last 2 sets of tires, got an alignment with perfect toe, wack camber = uneven wear.

Its not a hard concept if you understand suspension and can visualize it.

thank you, someone that understands suspension, i do alignments ALL day long at work and i dont understand how misinformed some people are about how suspension affects, drivability, tire wear, and fuel economy(espically honda kids with cut springs,lol)

[whiterps13]

Beleive me, I understand suspension and am far from 'misinformed'. I know that camber can cause uneven tire wear.

I was just clarifying that toe has a greater effect on uneven tire wear than camber does. Most people assume that camber is the only thing that kills the inside of your tires. That is false.

For the most part people overlook the fact that slamming your car to the ground also affects toe. RUCA's arent the only multi-link pieces that need to be replaced/adjusted when you want to go -really- low.

In fact, go browse through all of the coilover question threads. Very rarely do you see anyone mention any other suspension setting other than camber.

And ashibah, Im glad you do alignments at some tire shop all day long. What the hell does that have to do with knowledge about lowered cars and race alignments? All I see is a monster truck on steelies.
Modified by whiterps13 at 4:41 PM 1/24/2008

[ashibah83]

yes for now it is a monster truck on steelies, haha, i have my parts sittin ready to be installed once i put the motor back in (coilovers, and adjustable arms to list a few) and while i do work for a repair shop i also work part time for trackwell performance building road race cars (hondas and nissans) so i do have knowledge of what goes into "full race" suspension

i am aware that typically toe is what eats a tire up but at the same time as smocan said your toe and thrust angles can be perfect but with camber problems your tires will still wear unevenly

[caspers_240]

yes for now it is a monster truck on steelies, haha, i have my parts sittin ready to be installed once i put the motor back in (coilovers, and adjustable arms to list a few) and while i do work for a repair shop i also work part time for trackwell performance building road race cars (hondas and nissans) so i do have knowledge of what goes into "full race" suspension

i am aware that typically toe is what eats a tire up but at the same time as smocan said your toe and thrust angles can be perfect but with camber problems your tires will still wear unevenly

get it right phillipa' !!! its http://www.TrackWellPerformance.com!!! but yeah, 83 knows his suspension geometry... take it from someone who knows how to distroy tires... everything has to work together

[boriquaS13]

Ashibah83 I think what whiterps13 is saying is that negative camber depending on how much you run does in fact wear tires just over a longer period. Now if you have some baller wheels let say -5 offset and are 11inches wide and you need to run -3 to -3.5 degrees then yeah you will wear those tires out quickly. But let say your running +15 offset 9inch wide tire, rolled fender, and your running -1.5 degrees to possibly -2.0 degrees the tire will infact wear on the inner edge but over a longer period of time. Then we also must take into consideration the compound of the tire blah blah blah. I just reread my post I was mostly talking about the rear suspension and you both are correct in my point of view.