S13 vert won't start after overheat

[Mrsancheezz]

Alright guys new to the forum. Sucks this is my first post but w/e.

So I purchased a 240 vert AUTO in philly with a bad leaking water pump. Only known problem. Before my trip back to NYC, car ran nice around the dudes house and was doing good the first 40 miles driving home.

Than it started getting hot, I pulled over and wait 30ish mins added water and continued my trip.

This went on 4 more time, each time I turned off the car before temp got to HOT straight up in the gauge. The last time I put water car had trouble starting up, had to pump gas to turn on. While driving last 10 miles started hearing weird screeching noise when I put some gas. Car was well almost at first bold White line before Hot but couldn't stop to add water so I drove like that for 15 min til I made it to the first exit I could get off.

I let the car cool for 30 mins and added water/antifreeze and car wouldn't start. Cranks but won't turnover Tried 4 timesand nothing temp was still up at Hot so we just pulled the car home.

Main question what could be my problem?
I was told replace temp sensor, water pump and thermostat and car should start up.

Correct or something more serious? Sorry for long post I like to post indept so ya know where I standing at.

[Mrsancheezz]

Bump

Just got home checked spark plug wires, first 2 ( by windshield)
Plugs are soft, not hard like the other 2.
But connector inside is intact and good.


Tryna figure out what's up! Tomorrow morning I will get water pump, temp sensor, thermostat, spark plugs and wires.

[AZhitman]

Hold up a sec, before you go buying a bunch of parts....

Plug wires aren't relevant here, so skip that. The temp gauge on a 22-year-old car is NOT to be relied upon - it's not a true linear gauge, it's more like an idiot light, and you ignored it.

If you overheated the car and boiled out the coolant, the temp gauge would drop (as soon as no fluid was in contact). The steam inside the water neck won't give an accurate temp reading - but meanwhile, the temp is climbing. Turning the car off, at that point, doesn't help. The damage is done.

So, my guess is, you warped the head / blew the head gasket / spun a bearing or destroyed the water pump (screeching noise).

Before you do anything else, drain the oil. Look for milky streaks in the oil, or chunks, or pieces of metal.

Then, drain any coolant that might be left. Look for oily streaks or anything that doesn't look like clean water.

Let us know what you find, but yeah... you probably killed the engine.

[Mrsancheezz]

Fk I'm hoping I didn't. So far I checked the dip stick and it does not look milky at all. Previous owner just did a oil change.

Tomorrow I will empty out the oil and look for any shards of metal.
Also tonight I tried again to turn on the car and sounds like it's not getting spark all I hear is the belts moving pretty much.


Anything else I should buy other than water pump, thermostat, and temp sensor?

Also, temp gauge never dropped just stayed the first bold white line.

[AZhitman]

Fk I'm hoping I didn't. So far I checked the dip stick and it does not look milky at all.

That's not enough.

Previous owner just did a oil change.

Doesn't mean a thing.

Also tonight I tried again to turn on the car and sounds like it's not getting spark all I hear is the belts moving pretty much.

If there is no compression, you can have all the spark in the world and it won't do anything. A compression test is really the only way to know for certain whether you destroyed the engine.

Anything else I should buy other than water pump, thermostat, and temp sensor?

I'd save that money for a rebuild. A water pump isn't going to make the car start.

Expensive lesson: Driving a car with a bad water pump from PA to NY is a bad idea.

[Mrsancheezz]

Yeah, I figured that now, I should have gotten a tow truck but that's in the past now.
Guess I'll loan a compression tester from autozone too than.

Thanks for the help, anything else u suggest?

[AZhitman]

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to ... ngine.html

understanding-compression-test-results-t537687.html

Oh, and here ya go:

[WDRacing]

The head might be fixable and with any luck all you did was pop the headgasket.

Like mentioned, compression test is in order to determine how bad things are. IIRC, the last time I checked my compression on the KA they were all in the 160's. But it's been a few years since then, so I could be off. A true compression test is supposed to be done when the engine is at operating temp, but you're F'd in that area. So you're numbers cold will be less than the factory specs. The main thing to look for are large deviations between cylinders. This indicates a big problem.

Get back to us with the compression numbers.

[Mrsancheezz]

Thanks WDRACING,
I'm in the process of putting on new water pump tstat and to sensor. After that I'll invest in compression test.

[Mrsancheezz]

So couldn't get ahold of compression tester or so, but I changed water pump, Tstat, temp sensor, spark plugs and wires..

I figured it wouldn't start but I changed them all regardless.

However I did find water droplets on the old plugs. ( case if blown gasket or warped head??)
(If only this site made adding pics on mobile simple)

I removed the fuel pump fuse and cranks. The engine with no spark plugs til no water shooter out. ( there was drastic water mainly on cylinder 1 and 3.

Next I want to borrow a friends distributor and see if that helps it.

ALSO may the timing got off from overheating?

I will attempt to add pics and video of cranking the engine to help you guys give me better advice.

[Mrsancheezz]

Cranking the car last night.



So This is the Milky oil.. oil in oil pan is still good. not milky though.


when i was taking out the water that was in spark plug.

[WDRacing]

The timing can't change unless you manually do so yourself.

Stop putting money into this. Do NOT change anymore parts. Either your head is warped or your headgasket is badly blown. Your next step is to pull the head, clean the mating surface and then use a straight edge of some sort, yard stick whatever, and see if the head is warped. I'd take it to a machine shop regardless and have them examine it. They may be able to fix it for you.

The oil in the pan is bad. There are passages from the head right into the sump, if the oil is milky in the head then it's most certainly milky everywhere else.

Your engine is F'D. Stop trying to start it.

[Mrsancheezz]

Yeah, after i saw the oil I knew it was done. I'm going to have to get another motor soon. That's it.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

There was enough liquid in there that if you somehow had compression during the stroke, you could have potentially bent your rods.

[Mrsancheezz]

Yeah my motors done I'm getting a motor off a friend and same time we gonna do 5spd swap.

Atleast te parts i got I ll just put them to my new motor.
Thanks for all the help guys.