S13 Super Tune-Up

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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HashiriyaS14
Posts: 14298
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:02 pm
Car: '95 Nissan 240SX
'08 Honda Accord
'08 Honda NPS50
'03 Kawasaki Ninja 250
'60 Honda Super Cub
Location: DC Metro Area
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I purchased a white 1993 S13 coupe last night (automatic, 127k miles). I plan on keeping this car indefinitely, and I want it in essentially "as-new" condition or as close to it as possible.

The car came with ZERO maintenance history. It appeared to run and drive just fine, however I was getting what looked like a little white smoke (like, more than the normal condenstation on my S14, but only by a little), but it was also COLD outside, so I have no real reason so suspect a blown HG or anything like that right now.

I would really like to avoid a rebuild, or any engine-pulling at all, for the time being. Unless the compression/leakdown tests yield truly catastrophic results (which I don't at all expect), I'll be leaving the engine in the car and just doing the following:

I compiled the following list as being everything that I could think of that would help to bring the car back to its original from-factory glory. Please let me know if you can think of anything else to add to this list.

-Compression & Leakdown Tests-SeaFoam Engine-Oil Change & Filter (Semi-synth for 1k miles then Mobil 1 Synthetic)-Injector Cleaning (preferences for additive/procedure?)-Clean MAF & Throttle Body-New Battery -Spark Plugs (NGKs)-Plug Wires-Distributor Cap & Rotor-ATF Flush & Fill-Coolant Flush, Fill, & Burp-Power Steering Fluid-O2 Sensor (after Seafoam, obviously)-Z32 Fuel Filter-PCV Valve -Change Differential Fluid (open diff)-Bleed Brakes (Also replace pads, lines, rotors if needed)-Remove Timing Chain Guide (it's rattling)-Replace all accessory belts-Replace Air Filter (HKS Green? Other recommendations?)-Replace ALL suspension & subframe bushings-Valve cover gasket maybe? Just because?

I was debating the major suspension components too, but I figure I'll just be doing those with aftermarket as time goes on, so unless something really and truly breaks (which nothing has appeared to), I won't touch this for now.

Other stuff:-Automatic Transmission Cooler (Can I use the same B&M Unit that is recommended for the Q45?)-Remove ugly black side striping-De-tweed glovebox (does this work on the door inserts as well? Anyone tried it) See here----> zerothread?id=55009

ANYTHING else anyone can think of, lemme know.


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KFL
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 5:57 am
Car: S14
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Valve cover if its not leaking no point they don't go bad just get oem though if you do. I might also replace the water pump at that mileage.

Auto trans, you can change out the screen in the pan.Buy only oem for timing though,,friend had a aftermarket(few dollars cheaper) go bad poof ka-t.I would pull the valve cover and inspect for any build up, oil,sludge,burnt etc. With that info and compression test #'s I would say then choose your oil,I personally would use dyno oil (maybe semi-syn) switching to a full synt may chance a leak. But if everything is on the up-up with engine switching to full synth. shouldn't be a problem.

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teddy
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Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2004 11:16 am
Car: Saab Turbo and MR2

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Use the seafoam before you change the plugs or any gaskets. The seamfoam essentially end up exposing any leaks that you already had but didn't know...that's if you've got any leaks.

As for injector cleaning, you can dump seafoam in the gas tank and that should help I suppose. I would recommend sending them off somewhere though. DeatschWerks will clean and do a bunch of other stuff to your injectors for like $14 or something like that. With that many miles, you might as well replace the valve cover gasket. They aren't expensive and it's easy anyways.

I would go ahead and replace the vacuum lines as well too, since those can get brittle over time.

Suspension components, I guess it just depends on the kind of condition everything is in. The energy master kit is only like $110 for all bushings. I know that when I took my shocks off, I found out they were leaking something out of them. And Airfilter, just use a K&N. They're nice, not expensive and you can pick em up locally.

SplitSecondConcepts240
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:22 pm
Car: 93 240sx

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yea and about the syn oil u have to build up the usage first use half syn, then full syn im sure u dont want leaks

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rsmithdrift
Posts: 1984
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 2:18 pm
Car: 1993 240sx fastback se.

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What is this "sea-foam" thing you guys are talking about??

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HashiriyaS14
Posts: 14298
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:02 pm
Car: '95 Nissan 240SX
'08 Honda Accord
'08 Honda NPS50
'03 Kawasaki Ninja 250
'60 Honda Super Cub
Location: DC Metro Area
Contact:

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Well, so far I've had two of you tell me to stick with dino oil so as not to get leaks. I guess I'll do that for the time being.

Where could I expect to get common leaks? Front main seal? Oil pan gasket? etc...?

I've already gotten some good advice, keep it coming! I'll post pics of the car when I pick it up.

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teddy
Posts: 2013
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2004 11:16 am
Car: Saab Turbo and MR2

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I believe one of the notorious places for Nissan's leaking oil is the rear main seal, and possibly the oil pan gasket.

As far as oil goes, since this is just a typical daily driver. I would just go with high mileage oil. I don't think you'd notice any drastic improvement or gains with synthetic, especially when its just normal driving.
rsmithdrift wrote:What is this "sea-foam" thing you guys are talking about??
It's a liquid that you can use in 3 places...1. Gastank 2. Crankcase 3. Or injection(vacuum) Basically what it does is it will clean your injectors, removes carbon buildup, smooths out your idle, cleans fuel lines, cleans intake valves, frees sticy lifters etc. Basically a lot of internal cleaning, and it's also helped people pass emission tests too. A lot of people also use it to see the smoke show. When you put it in through way of injection, it creates a smoke storm for about 15 minutes.

InsanityInc
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I will say this for every 240 repair job after I saw what ****ed up problems it caused for mine:

ADJUST YOUR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.

Adjust by voltage, not resistance. There's a procedure in the FSM. Basically, you probe voltage between two wires on the TPS harness and look for .5v at idle when the car is warmed up.

Sooooo many of my car's problems were due to the stupid little thing.

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HashiriyaS14
Posts: 14298
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:02 pm
Car: '95 Nissan 240SX
'08 Honda Accord
'08 Honda NPS50
'03 Kawasaki Ninja 250
'60 Honda Super Cub
Location: DC Metro Area
Contact:

Post

InsanityInc wrote:I will say this for every 240 repair job after I saw what ****ed up problems it caused for mine:

ADJUST YOUR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.

Adjust by voltage, not resistance. There's a procedure in the FSM. Basically, you probe voltage between two wires on the TPS harness and look for .5v at idle when the car is warmed up.

Sooooo many of my car's problems were due to the stupid little thing.
Awesome, I hadn't thought of that, thanks!

Keep 'em coming. Hopefully I'll pick up the car this weekend so I can show you all my new POS!


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