S13 **Still Overheating w/ Alum Rad? **

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Aeroz
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:55 pm

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S13:

Redtop Sr20DETFMICCX Racing Aluminum Radiator CX Racing 2 12" Slim Fans

Got done installing the rad and fans, and I figured that my overheating problems would finally come to an end. I filled the radiator on an incline, I squeezed the hoses w/ the rad. cap off to get the bubbles out. I ran it for 15 mins, with heater on.

Anyways, so I feel like I did everything right, and for some reason unless I have the heater blasting, the car eventually starts to overheat. If I push it hard, it overheats in no time.

So what could it be? Any ideas?

Thanks.


rickgerhardt
Posts: 75
Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2009 11:10 am
Car: 93 240sx coupe

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Im not aware of what other things you've tried but is the water pump new? Thermostat? hoses? I have a brand new KA24DE and I dont even have my fans hooked up. Been stuck in DC traffic for 3 hours straight is 95 degree weather; temp gauge never moved.

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zach-Ka
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Car: 1990 240sx (SR)
Location: Greeneville, TN

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Make sure that your fans are wired up as a pull not a push...

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Koshin
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zach-Ka wrote:Make sure that your fans are wired up as a pull not a push...
^^^that

....and make sure your thermostat isnt stuck or something...


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Koshin
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btw S13 redtop SRs waterpumps are junk...you may need to replace it, they have plastic fins on them and sometimes they get junked up...just sayin', and its easy enough to replace and you can get one for like 40 bucks...I replaced mine when I did a Koyo, fans and thermostat etc.

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Hooked on 240
Posts: 863
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 10:24 pm
Location: Albany NY
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Idk if this was said (not reading the whole thread)

Try jacking up the front of the car while your car is cool. Take off the rad cap and squeeze the top hose on your rad that will take the bubbles / air pockets out Check level or watch it in the hole go down. fill up to the top and keep going. check and fill as needed.Put the cap on and left her down.

You might need to repeat this a couple times. This is could be a good reason of whats going on. it def. was the problem when i put my mishimoto on my KA.

EDIT: just read the first post.

My option is still good to try again. you might have not gotten all of the air out.

rioredstang
Posts: 293
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:47 pm
Car: 1993 240sx SCCA ITS
Location: Chattanooga, TN

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If the water pump is working you can see the water flowing in the top tank after the engine has warmed up. Hold the throttle up to about 1500-2000 rpm and watch. You should see a good amount of water flowing. If not I would replace the pump. If you do have good flow then most likely you have a bad head gasket.

Aeroz
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:55 pm

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Thanks for all the replies. I'm positive that there are no air bubbles in the system. Been busy this week so I plan on checking out the issue with the water pump on the weekend asap.

I'll probably also replace the t-stat just to be safe. We'll see how it goes.

And fans are wired correctly.

Aeroz
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:55 pm

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Haven't put the t stat in yet but I noticed that my temp gauge is really starting to fluctuate. I'll be driving and once it starts heating to the notch above normal I'll immediately turn the car off and then back on and it will go down just below the normal notch instantly.

Does that raise any ideas, or should I jus shut up n change the t stat haha

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zach-Ka
Posts: 1549
Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:08 am
Car: 1990 240sx (SR)
Location: Greeneville, TN

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My car does that and its fine. I would just change the t-stat man, thats probably it.

hksdrift240
Posts: 26
Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2009 11:50 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx

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I put a new radiator on mine and the temp needle kept going up to the H, and it would spit coolant out the radiator, and after like 2 hours of trying to get it to run normal temp, I jacked the front way up and took the bleeder screw out and watched all the air come out the hole and the heat started working almost imediately and the temp needle actually sits just under half way all the time now.


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