S13 STIFF clutch - Only when engine is running - I CANNOT WIN

[Peabody]

I am the guy with the worst luck with clutches. I have melted 3 TOB in the last 2 months & my trans has been out 4 times in the last 3 months.

- Installed a rebuilt Jasper KA with ACT HD Clutch. From day 1 had tons of chatter, would engage violently. Lasted 2000 miles & came out with the TOB melted to the fingers of the PP. - Replaced ACT HD Clutch with Exedy Stage 1. The clutch was so stiff it broke the top bolt off the clutch pedal assembly. Also could hear a loud winning sound from the input shaft. I installed a rebuilt Trans and decided to try a RPS Sport clutch because I have back problems and need a light clutch.

- Picked up car and was in heaven, light clutch that had a good feel to it and the new trans shifted so smooth. After 15 minutes of driving I started to notice the clutch was getting stiffer to depress and would come back with a notch like feel, not a smooth release. I was so PISSED. Got home and it was getting harder to get in gear and stiffer. But when I turned the engine off the clutch was as light as a feather. Once I started the engine it was stiffer and would release in a notchy fashion. When the car was off and the clutch felt good it was quiet but when I would depress it running it would squeak and make grunting sounds. Then the TOB started to make a loud sound every time the clutch was depressed.

- I took it back to the shop and they put in a new TOB and it was fine for about a week. Now I can feel it starting to stiffen up and it comes up in a notch ratchet action. It is not as bad as before but enough to get on my nerves & get me so upset I cannot sleep. SAME THING AS BEFORE - Engine off the clutch is soft & releases fine but once the engine starts things go to hell.

The shop only charged me $200 to remove the trans the 1st time and they really do not know what to do. They have been in business for 45 years and have A+ BBB rating. I have not even told them about this problem because I know they are going to pull there hair out.

The master & slave were changed, Got a new fork & spring. Even got some boot that I did not even know was missing around the fork.

WHAT would make a clutch act different with the engine running? I do not want to think about it but could it be a bad flywheel? I still have the dampner inline & was thinking of removing it but the weird thing is the clutch is only ^&^&%$% up when the car is running...

WHAT CAN I DO ? ? ? ?

[RustspecS13]

One time when I put my engine back in, I broke the sleeve the TOB rides on. This destroyed my OEM TOB and almost took out my spec stage 3 clutch as well.

The only things I could think that could cause your problem is a bad (some how) input shaft, a bad pilot bushing (in too far, not far enough wrong size) maybe the flywheel isn't seated right, or its off center some how (maybe the clutch isn't clocked right on it)

Is the flywheel the same as the one you had on the old engine? I would get a new one, they are $50 or so from advance auto. Check their website too it might be cheaper there, and you just pick it up at a local store. And I would pick up a new pilot bushing too.

~Alex

[carkook]

Maybe your crankshaft endplay is way out of spec? Causing the flywheel to be moving forward and backward excessive amounts.