S13 Starting Problems: Need Feedback!!!

[CC_nismo_240sx]

I'm gonna try to explain this as best I can, I've done quite a bit of changes and replacing too my 93 Nissan ka24de 240sx.

My car is not starting! When I tried to start the car for the first time I primed the fuel system like you should and could hear the high pitch fuel pump winding sound, so I know thats working. I turn my key to the ON position and all my light on the dash work and I also hear the click that the ignition in the steering column makes right before you turn it over. I put the engine at TDC, front & back piston level to the top of the block right before the piston wants to fall which is the second notch on the crankshaft pulley. The distributor rotor is pointing right at the #1 spot on the cap, the spark plug cable leading to the front piston, number 1 cylinder. I measured the gap of the spark side of the spark plugs and set them to proper distance. Tested every spark plug cable and got good spark out of everyone of them. When I took the #1 cylinder spark plug out and looked into the cylinder, I could see the piston at the top in the TDC position. I also saw a light layer of fuel seating itself on the top of the piston, it was a thin layer but enough to notice. I replaced the starter and battery. I'm getting full 360 degree rotation in the engine, belts, fan and I can hear and feel the flywheel spinning but still no fire up. Looked over many of fuses and I couldn't find any bad ones, I looked over the whole cars wiring harness, every clip, plugs & connection, from what I can see everything is in nice and snug. All the proper amounts of fluids are in Differential, Transmission, Engine and Coolant.

- I've check all of this multiple times and the results are the same. - So the Engines TDC, I'm getting Spark, I'm getting fuel and the engine rotates 360 degrees with no weird sounds, knocks or anything out of the ordinary. - I did get two pops that sounded like combustion, first one then the second, its sounded like it wanted to start after the combustions but the it stopped and the engine kept rotating with no start.- I am still using the AT ECU but have a 5-speed transmission. I hear it everywhere that is doesn't matter if you use the AT or MT ECU after doing a transmission swap, you actually get some advantages from using the AT.

ALSO WORTH MENTIONING: Installing the Timing Chain, Guides & Tensioners. The timing chain has alignment and mating marks on it, I made sure that they all were in there correct spots while putting together the head. The engine and pulley are still at TDC. The camshafts are in, I get to the camshaft sprockets and bolts them down making sure the small dot on the sprockets are alined with the upper timing chain mating marks.

NOW, with that said and the engine can rotates freely 360 degrees and I can't hear any abnormal noises, I'm assuming that the camshafts are on properly and the valves & pistons are not coming in contact with each other? If I'm wrong, let me know....

* Is it electrical or some type of sensor?

* Would it possible be a fuse or relay?

* Does the ECU and or does the transmission swap have anything to do with it?

* Is there anything I could check, test or replace that might fix this unexplained problem?

---- ---- ---- Feed this post with any feedback or suggestions possible, this is really frustrating ---- ---- ----

________________________________________________________________________________A list of some of the changes and installs I've done that might help diagnose my problem.

1. New Starter2. New Battery3. New Thermostat 4. Cylinder Head re-surfaced & New Valve Seals 5. New 1 Piece Aluminum Driveshaft6. AT to MT Swap 7. New Clutch Kit & Flywheel8. Viscous LSD 9. Timing Chains, Guides & Tensioners10. All New Belts11. All Major Gaskets - Head - Intake Manifold - Exhaust Manifold - Throttle Body - Water Pump - Valve Cover - EGR Valve - Thermostat Elbow

12. All Major Seals: - Front Main Seal - Rear Main Seal - Transmission Rear Seal

13. Properly Lubricated all moving parts in the head with Redline Lubrication.14. Cleaned carbon from pistons and ever surface that required a gasket or RTV free from oils. 15. The Spark Plugs are fairly new as well as the Cap & Rotor, not even 6 months old. The Spark Plug Cables were on the car when I bought it about 1 year 1/2 ago. But again I am getting spark.

16. A whole bunch of new bolts, all water pump bolts, valve cover bolts, timing chain front covers bolts, camshaft caps bolts, all new Transmission Bell Housing bolts, Starter bolts, Flywheel & Pressure Plate bolts and many more.







Modified by CC_nismo_240sx at 1:37 PM 11/20/2008

Modified by CC_nismo_240sx at 2:16 PM 11/20/2008

Modified by CC_nismo_240sx at 4:44 PM 11/20/2008

Modified by CC_nismo_240sx at 11:59 PM 11/20/2008
Modified by CC_nismo_240sx at 12:02 AM 11/21/2008

[psmith]

I read your whole post. I did NOT search on the ecu part of it, but that is where I would put my money since I thought it was a necessary component of the 5 spd swap. I could be mis-informed, but since noone is replying to you I thought I would. Good Luck!

Edit: Found this from along time ago 2004.

"No kidding... I also had an idle problem with the auto KA ECU. When I started the car, it would want to die. No misfiring or anything, it would just die, like when you turn the key off. Also had that problem when coming to a stop, although I learned to deal with it.Still, I had no problems with getting power. The car was very fast for a KA.

What other maps do you think there could be? Have you looked at the ROM file in Excel to see if there is any other map-like data?

That was from the RB forums, but he was obviously talking about a KA.
Modified by psmith at 3:00 PM 11/21/2008

[CC_nismo_240sx]

I have the AT and the MT ECU so I recently did a couple more tests and replacements. I took out the AT ECU and put in the MT ECU and I still got the exact same results, 2 slight combustions but still no fire up. It almost sounds like its dry firing.

SO, I took the fuel line that comes right after the fuel filter that connects to the fuel rail hardlines, put the end of the line in a can and turned the key to the ON position. It started squirting fuel into the can right away. I did looking into the cylinder from the spark plug holes and noticed fuel inside the #1 cylinder and the #4 cylinder. Looking into the #2 and #3 I couldn't see any. If it helps any the firing order is 1-3-4-2.

I did decided to replace the cap, that did do anything.

Is is possible that I have bad Injector?Which I don't know why, I unplugged them I kept them attached to the Intake Manifold.
Modified by CC_nismo_240sx at 10:59 PM 11/21/2008

[CC_nismo_240sx]

I found and fix the problem. Both Camshafts were off but now by much, took off the valve cover, sprockets, and camshaft caps and did the adjusting. All is good now, thanks!

[psmith]

Nice job did you end up using the MT Ecu, or the AT?

[CC_nismo_240sx]

I'm using the AT ECU.

Now I'm having a whole nothing problem. The car starts for about 6-7 seconds, rev's on its own too about 3,000 rpm's, slowly climbs to about 3,400 rpm's and then dies. When I give it gas the engine kicks back in but still wont stay started.

I cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the IACV and it didn't help. I pretty much out of ideas.

[martins_240sx]

automatic ecu works and removes speed limiter. also try replacing your fuel pressure regulator