Post by
180fan »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/180fan-u3602.html
Sun May 01, 2005 4:00 pm
86.5mm, you'll need it bored by 0.5mm. Depending on the amount of boost you're running, you'll have to gap the rings differently. I had the specs in my rebuild notes for the CP's which I'll find shortly.
The Eagle rods may not have been necessary, the stock rods are quite strong. If you are reusing the stock main bolts, measure them first. If they're within spec, you're fine. If you're switching to ARP studs, you'll need to check the line bore on the block. If you do not have a bore gauge, go to a machinist, this is over your head. (Note: ARP's main studs for the SR20DE are too long on the #4 and 5 studs on the exhaust side. You will need to have them ground down)
Since you've already purchased bearings, I probably shouldn't bring this up, but you could have gotten your crank polished. Depending on how much material is taken off during polishing, you may need to resize your bearings.
Note: Remember to lube the rings and the cylinders prior to assembly, it'll make your life easier. Try using Redline's assembly lube for the journals on the crank, but it's a bit thick for the pistons, so I suggest using motor oil there. Also if you're in this far, make sure you've got that front timing chain oil jet. It's very important.