S13 rear spkrs...In the rear armrests!?!

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RatedR
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ohh, well dont worry then, cause i know you have to remove the rear seat bolts....thanks anyway!


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ayjay
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ya went to go try it today, and i realized that the seatbelt posts had to be removed... but another problem would have been removing those panels after getting the bolts off cause i have sticky roofing material stuck between the panels and the frame which i used as sound deadening material, and those panels will not come off easily :pface but if you wanna take the panels off in your car, measure the opening you have in behind the panel, and the depth, then you can easily calculate whether or not you have enough space for a proper enclosure...

I would love to see you go ahead with this cause it would be pretty pimp :cool:

RatedR
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yeah man, thanks for helping out. I'll take a tape measure and see the dimensions. I was curious to see (ayjay) if you're familiar with the s14 tight bass install, have you read about it??? Its similar to that pic that Rex put up. I was just wondering if they just sealed up the inside quarter panel with silicone or any air tight sealing material? It looks like they did, then they just sealed it up with some MDF and made the entire thing the enclosure....would that work?

RatedR
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I took the interior apart today, here are the measurements...L - 8 1/2 W - 6H - 5All in inches of course. I know this wouldnt be very big, but I also took measurements of how far out I can make the enclosure:Top - 4 1/2Middle - 5 Bottom - 6 1/2 - 7The top would be where the top of the back part of the seats would fold down to. The bottom is the bending joint part, the corner of both seats in the rear.....

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ayjay
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damn that would be pretty tight for measurements... but most magnets on subs aren't any bigger than the opening you have, so you could fit the magnet inside there easily, but the basket and the cone itself would have to stick out a little bit... you almost need to buy the subs first and then figure out what the best location would be.

oh and about that s14 "tight bass" install... looks to me like they took a sheet of MDF and just cut it so it would fit in place, and just sealed it up tight with silicon. the benefit of installing it this way is that the sub gets to use the entire space that you've sealed off as it's enclosure and lots of airspace CAN be a good thing... but the bad thing is it probably won't be the right size enclosure for it, and so you'll get a major peak around a certain frequency range, and that's what you don't want... you want the response curve to be as flat as possible from 30hz on and you have to be able to make the perfect sized enclosure to do that.

but if you're not too picky, then bust out the silicon and find a sub that will fit :pface

RatedR
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Hahhaha, thanks for filing my curiousities about that s14 install bro! Anyways, i've done research, found out that the rockford HE2 8" subs will work well. Rockford has a volume calculator that helped out nicely. Not entirely sure if its acurate, but we'll see....right? I'll have to make it come out a bit, like you said, just to get a little more air in for the sub. The only thing i need help with is how fiberglass is layed. Can I just wrap the quarter panel with fabric and start fiberglassing it? ayjay, i was thinking of taking the same aproach you did, with the mounting rings extended and all. How hard would it be to make that out of fiberglass using the quarter panel for a mold?

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Rex
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From http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com ...

Quote »The IDQ V.2 continues to increase upon the unsurpassed competition success of the original IDQ subwoofers with increased SPL output and significantly smaller enclosure requirements...[/quote]Have you given any thought to cramming a 10" in there?

RatedR
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thanks for the suggestion rex, but the max cubic feet I can cram is 0.1, which would be too small for a 10 but just perfect for the HE2s.

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ayjay
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RatedR wrote: How hard would it be to make that out of fiberglass using the quarter panel for a mold?


well it wouldn't be that difficult really... basically use the same approach as i did, except the hard part is blending your fibreglass/bondo work with the rest of the panel... i mean you can either re-vinyl the entire panel, or try repainting the entire thing with vinyl spray paint which i think has a little bit of texture to it. revinyling the entire thing is the way to go i think :)

that is why when i wanted to mod my panels to accept the 3 ways, i couldn't figure out a way to keep the stock vinyl on there and blend it with the custom parts that i made... so i ripped it all off and started from scratch :D damn that cloth section on the door panel is hard to take off, i had to torque on it soo hard...

RatedR
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Well, I'm not sure if I'm going to try and make this kind of enclosure anymore, well maybe not now. I've ordered 2 jl 10w0 just to replace my stolen system. I'm actually going to try and see if the JLs would work fine with the TIGHT BASS INSTALL. But if it doesnt, then I'd have to go try make them later on. Does anyone have a good idea about sealing the inner fender? I doubt I can shoot silicone into the corners of the thing...

RatedR
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Tried to fit the JLs in today, no such luck. I think I'd have to get the rear seats taken out to accomodate that kind of a setup. But maybe an 8" would fit in there. Now I'm just considering setting it up in the trunk. I was planning on just sealing off the spare tire well with a 5/8 MDF board and silicone. I think it MIGHT work, but what do you guys think???

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Rex
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Was it depth or diameter that didn't fit?

RatedR
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the hole doesnt accomodate the speaker's sides... i dont really want to cut that part out, think its part of the chassis isnt it???


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