S13 KA24DE - No Power To Dizzy

[lbs_ft]

I own a 1990 S13 Coupe that the had a 1993 KA24DE swapped in by a previous owner. I blew that motor, so I recently finished swapping in a 1996 KA24DE, and it started yesterday with no issues. I drove it around the block, not a problem, but I noticed that my radio wasn't working.

I pulled it out and began to check and replace all the connections, some of which bypass the radio plug and tap directly into the car's wiring harness, namely the ignition and ground wires. I had the key turned to ACC (f*** stupid, I know) which I fiddled with the radio so I would know as soon as I had it right, and it ended up being a loose ground connection, but I'm worried that I might have touched the ground and ignition wires on the harness together.

I got it all back together, radio works fine, then I turn the key, and the car cranks and cranks and cranks but won't catch. I pull a spark plug to see if its sparking. Nope. I pull the dizzy-to-coil wire. No spark.

I fiddle with the battery leads, and eventually when I try to turn the car over, the EGM relay begins to click rapidly. I replace it. No more clicking, but the car still won't catch.

So now I think I'm f***. There were no sparks, no smoke, no smell of burning electronics, but I'm terrified that I might have fried my ECU by leaving the key on ACC (stupidstupidstupid).

Anybody have any ideas? I'm in crisis mode now...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Check all your fuses, and try and swap out that ECU for another known good one. Also make sure you didn't knock a ground loose for ignition or something while you were fixing your radio.

[lbs_ft]

All the fuses are good. Where would the ignition ground be?

I checked the grounds to the engine, and they're all good.

I used a meter to measure the power to the coil, and both the plugs are receiving around 12 volts when the key is on accessory, so power is getting to the coil. I also noticed that there was a fork-style connector on the base of the coil that wasn't connected to the wiring harness connector.

Does this sound right? Should there be power getting to the coil at all times? Should I just have to replace the coil? Or is the ECU still damaged?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Tough call man... time to hit the FSM and read until your eyes bleed. Sounds like you have a lot of electrical diagnosis ahead of you.

[lbs_ft]

I set the ECU into diagnostic mode today, and the it cooperated with the light blinking and all, which I guess rules out a fried ECU.

After cranking the car and setting the key to ON, but without the engine running, the ECU blinks and reads 11 (Crank Angle Sensor Circuit), 21 (Ignition Signal Circuit), and 34 (Detonation Sensor Circuit).

Any ideas?

[lbs_ft]

Also, I tested the wires running from the harness into th coil and resister.

The 2 wires to the coil had a fluctuating reading with the key in the ignition, but it stuck around 8. It jumped to just under 12 with the key turned.

Same for the other set of wires, except there are three there and I don't know the order.

I have the FSM for my car, but not for the twin cam engine, so that's no help.

Anyone know or have a writeup on how to test an S13 KA24DE ignition coil?

[OutToWinPAHC]

You checked the under the hood fuses too? Not by vision but with a multimeter?

[lbs_ft]

Fuses are good, I don't know about the relays. I don't think there's a way to check those. I replaced the EFI relay that was clicking, but nothing changed

[OutToWinPAHC]

You can test the relays witha battery by energizing to coil and looking for the contact to open or close.

[lbs_ft]

Alright then, that's what I'll do today. I'll let you know how it goes

[ShouldaHadaV8]

I set the ECU into diagnostic mode today, and the it cooperated with the light blinking and all, which I guess rules out a fried ECU.

Not true, mine was fried but still pulled codes.... I never would have thought it was my ecu but a friend swapped mine with his spare. Its worth swapping one to see if it helps any. Mine wasn't getting power to the dizzy or the fuel pump , I was having to jump relays with speaker wire

[lbs_ft]

Well I can hear my fuel pump kick on, then kick off to prime the rail.

What exactly were you jumping?

[ShouldaHadaV8]

If I remember without going outside and looking , it was the two green relays at the backside of the fuse box. I bought new relays from autozone which were blue but of the the same relay type, One relay must have been blown because I started getting power to my distributor, but the other relay had no effect on the fuel pump circuit. My point regardless of whether YOUR fuel pump is working and your ECU is fine , my ECU was still pulling codes like 55 and 34, but If the ECU circuit for my I think EGI relay ( fuel ) went out, then Im sure the circuit for the dizzy could go out too. I know nothing im just speaking out of my own experiences, but its worth trying another ECU if you get the oppertunity to borrow one or can afford to buy one from the JY

Found these later! And BTW my ECU was a #28 now im using a #29 from an auto.

[lbs_ft]

Okay, just finished reassembling the distributor. Cleaned it with electric parts cleaner and put dialectric grease on the connections. Car still won't start.

Took the ECU apart, and goddamit, not one burn mark. No smell of burning electronics either.

Here's a picture:


The ECU has a green sticker and the number 24, followed by the PO A11-B44 GO7, so its from a manual KA24DE and its good.


So next is to test the resistance on the coil and dizzy. I'll report back once that's done.

[lbs_ft]

Now I'm only getting codes 21 and 34, Ignition and Detonation. No duh, the car won't ignite and it won't detonate hahaha

[lbs_ft]

All the relays tested out a-ok.

Resistance between the ignition coil terminals is supposed to be 1ohm, my results varied between 1.4 ohms and 1.7 ohms.

Resistance between the ignition coil terminals and and the dizzy terminal is supposed to be 10 kilohms, my result was a solid 9.88.

What do you make of this?

[ShouldaHadaV8]

IDK , it could be the ignitor chip on the coil. but theres a test for it in the fsm.

[compactfean]

All the relays tested out a-ok.

Resistance between the ignition coil terminals is supposed to be 1ohm, my results varied between 1.4 ohms and 1.7 ohms.

Resistance between the ignition coil terminals and and the dizzy terminal is supposed to be 10 kilohms, my result was a solid 9.88.

What do you make of this?

Well that coil is bad for sure. I just had to replace the dizzy on my b14 because the coil tested at 1.3 ohms and spec was 1ohm.