OMG chill out this is so painfully easy it's retarded. Your MAF is not connecting. Seriously. Go out to your car and jiggle the connection to the MAF and your check the throttle. Your car is going into safe mode and rev limiting you at 2500 rpm. Typical of the car running with NO MAF plugged in. If the MAF were bad then it would not run at all. It would either just flood out and die or not even start. With it unplugged it goes into safe mode and will run decently untill 2500 rpm at wich point it will hit a rev limiter.
It being un plugged could mean one of two things....
1. Either the MAF connection is loose/corroded and it has become unplugged or have such weak intermittent signal that ignores and goes into safe mode assuming broken MAF
2. The MAF IS broken and either it broke in a way that dissables the circuit and gives no signal. OR it was broke in a way that makes the car undriveable/flood out and was disconnected to make the car driveable enough to make it home safely. (Hense: Safe Mode)
Now you have a few options from here...
1. You can just spend mad money and buy a new MAF and Connector (just to be safe) and fix the problem now. It'll cost you around $400 btw for new ones.
2. Or you can do some diagnostics to save your self some money at the expese of work and time. You can get a Digital Multi Meter and check the wires per FSM for the proper voltages per FSM. You should find a variance. This will tell you if the wiring is bad or if the MAF/Possibly both are bad. Make sure it's plugged in when you check. If its the wiring you will know. If it's not that then it could be the MAF being broken in a normal way or the wiring is corroded or loose. work on the wiring to tighten the terminals if lose or clean them if they are in any way corroded. Connect tightly and check again. If still same then it's probably your MAF. If it's still no good you need to replace the MAF. Go to a junkyard and pay them for a used one. it's $50 around here. From autozone they are $300 with a core charge of 35. I DON"T WANT TO KNOW how much they are at the STEALERSHIP. Install new one and check again. If still now good take that one back cause it didn't solve the problem meaning its etiher broke or your wiring is really just no good. Junkyards will give you the harness connector with it for free also btw. And they are gaurunteed to work or your money back. If you tried the new MAF but didn't replace the harness with it chances are you still have a wiring issue. The connection is very hard to repair once the terminals have been damaged by corrosion. A new harness only costs 20 bucks on ebay if one didn't come with your MAF. So I HIGHLY recomend replacing it if it's corroded in any way at all.
I have never owned a nissan that didn't have MAF problems, they are the main source of engine control in all nissans. That connection controls how much power your car makes or if it runs at all. The better that connection and more accurate that signal is the more power your car will have.
PERIOD.
Heres a link that gives you info on how to check your maf and how to read your a/f ratio(02 sensor):
important-tech-stuff-if-you-own-a-240-o ... 76094.html
BTW an AFC works by altering the MAF output signal (control wire) before it reaches the ECU. This makes the ECU add or reduce fuel making the car either richer or leaner accordingly. With a good fuel pump and a A/F ratio meter you can gain 15hp easily with a good AFC by fine tuning it.
idk what it is, im going to clean out the throttle body tomorrow (My mustang was running badly until i cleaned the throttle body then it ran like a champ).
