S13 Coupe Restoration

[Blaqkfox]

Fresh thread since photo bucket wants an arm and a leg for 3rd party hosting now, and this was my first thread. First a little background on me. I've had over 20 cars in the past 6 years: 99 saturn SL sedan, 2008 Mustang v6, 2004 360z, LS400, 96 BMW M3, s14 zenki Rb20det swap, SC400 (the infamous Phoenix build), 86 BMW e30 325es, stock 04 WRX, ford Thunderbird Super Coupe (supercharged 5spd), 87 s10 pickup, honda ruckus, and a 72 super beetle that I traded for this 92 s13! And of course the daily, a 1993 302 F150.
(pictures of mine and others rides here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/73910907@N07/ )
I worked as a porter for Eurohaus Motorsports in Knoxville TN (now closed), and Fisher Tire (local tire shop), and I worked for our local Harper Audi/porche/jag dealer, where I worked for Audi as an apprentice tech for a year then went back to school for computer coding (Java, C++, etc), and now I'm working at a local parts store.

THE S13
Pickup Day

IMG_8472 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr
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So I've been a lurker for a long time never posted much, picked up my second 240, 3rd Nissan. This ones a '92 coupe. Chuki. Had a red top Sr20det from a s13 previously installed but pulled as part of a trade deal for my old '72 beetle. Have Sr trans and car still has lower Sr wiring harness, intercooler and piping, eBay boost gauge and eBay turbo timer, Emusa coilovers, and unknown aftermarket adjustable traction arms. Also some off brand "Kobie" 18x7.5 et+38 wheels. Also, car has an S14 dash and gauge cluster with factory s13 steering wheel! Also has s14 driveshaft and shimmed j30 differential. So all in all not bad to start with!

IMG_0539 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr
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I got to work stripping it down...

IMG_0527 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

Picked up some 18x9 +35 R34 Outback Gold GT-R scwheels...

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Traded the S14 dash it had for an engine I later found out had a bad bearing/rod knock issue...

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and bought a CRACKLESS S13 dash...

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Then got a block with fresh rods and bearings (that happened to be the same year as the car) and picked up a few more goodies!

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More pictures of the engine rebuild...

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Everything down to the oil pressure relief check valves is new (minus the head lol)

6E21C824-9579-4DEB-9C3B-CBE26B5D6B36 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr
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I used a 1993 D21 flywheel and exedy clutch kit (D21 TOB)

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ISR 4-2-1 Headers as well...

IMG_2476 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr
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I also repainted it Rustoleum Metallic Blue, didn't bother to fix the body rn since it'll get a kit later on anyways...

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Aaaaaand scuffed it dropping the engine back in (took it out to replace an O ring...decided I didn't trust gasket maker on the pickup tube and wanted to do it right lol

IMG_4418 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

Trans also got split and painted cuz why not

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843F0E3F-8059-43AB-9953-8A067D1B48CC by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

I sold the GTR wheels and got some Z33 wheels to run in the mean time...
They had a good bit of curb rash so I fixed two of them and recoated them in a hyper silver. Heres two painted and two stock next to eachother (stock color = the ones w/the rash)

IMG_4843 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

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Dry ice was used to remove all the sound deadening and bed liner was laid from trunk to firewall...

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Then I tried my hand at welding for the first time...

fullsizeoutput_130 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

And made some brackets for the fans while I was at it...

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Finished products:

IMG_4735 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr
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Planning on a two speed wiring for the electric fans...

fullsizeoutput_3 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

And have a custom bracket made for the gauges utilizing the OEM gauge cluster plastics for that OEM feel...

IMG_3590 by Blaqkfox, on Flickr
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Until Next time!

[Hijacker]

Lookin' good so far!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Excellent!
I wish I didn't suck at trying to fix wheels.

[Blaqkfox]

Update 1/15/2017

I picked up a 1985 Audi 4000s Quattro on the low low!
More commonly known by its European badging as the Audi 80 B2. Yup it's a classic Sport, Quattro, 80s, B series car!

Screen Shot 2018-01-15 at 10.21.15 PM by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

Planned on fixing and flipping, but I might just keep it! It's having CIS issues I believe. She's got the 5cyl 10 valve engine, guy posted it as a 2.3l engine but I think it's a 2.2l.

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It has 263k miles and but it looks like she's had an easy life! Interior is 9/10, crackless dash, only the slightest tear in the driver seat, size of a pencil eraser maybe, and a few of the rubber button covers are missing on the original radio.

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And it has a flat so its on a doughnut, and only body damage is faded paint and a big dent in the passenger fender, easy fix so I'm happy!

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So all in all, I picked this thing up for less than $500, I believe it was a two owner vehicle (but the second guy just left it open title so I'll technically be the second or third owner), it came from Cincinnati I believe the guy said, he got it to fix up but had other interest going on and needed to sell.
Needs: two window regulators, shifter linkage adjusted (difficult to get into 1st or 3rd or reverse, common issue), and it misses bad on idle, give it gas and its better but still not right, guy said he was tired of messing with it... I look and the PCV isn't even attached even though the hose and clamp are both there on the head, the airbox vac line and port to the IACV had been halfway fixed but it sounds like a turbo whistle almost when you're on the gas from the air leaks lol, not even a clamp on the IACV hose, the battery was dead, one flat tire, doughnut on the other side because sidewall damage on that one, and he had the O2 unhooked cuz "the forums said it wasn't important". Obviously being a CIS-e car all the vac leaks and airbox leak and O2 unplugged, so no wonder it has a miss lol. I took the battery to work today to charge and test, and it charged and tested good. (cuz also the electric fuel pumps on this thing require 11.5v minimum to operate correctly and this battery was on 0 so that might've played a small role in the miss). and took the IACV with me to test and it also tested fine. also he backed into it and broke a corner light lens on the front when I got there
Good: the interior is near flawless which is rare for an 85 car I feel, and the engine looked like it had been maintained well over the years till recently, there was hardly no leaks at all, only one tore outer CV boot on the front, everything works-sunroof, ac/heat, radio, half of the electric windows (lol), and even the electronic differential lockers work! The drivetrains on these things are very durable so it should last, all the fluids looked well, and hoses were mostly good, new plugs, wires, and distributor, muffler, fuel filter, and fuel pumps. clean title.
The odd: theres two plugs just hanging out and I have no idea what they go to. ones blue and on the side an exhaust manifold is usually on (not in this case of course), and ones white by the CIS intake tube, both two prong. The strangest thing though was I noticed the Head Gasket peaking out stamped "TURBO". now the Audi 5000 came with a 2.1l Turbo (pretty close to the same engine, but 20v I believe, atleast some were idk if they made a 10v turbo...). and I found on a thread a comment about if you use the 2.1l HG on a 2.2 it will leak! now there was no sign of mixing in the coolant reservoir and not a drop of moisture buildup on the oil cap so I don't believe its a HG leak but ill be doing a compression/leakdown test here soon on it. As well run some injector/FS cleaner through it, I hear the continuous injection system are bad about injectors gunking up. if the compression is good, and fixing the air leaks, O2, and cleaner doesn't fix the miss ill be looking into the CIS system and either doing a rebuild or replacement on the CIS, but I've only found used CIS systems for the 5cyl, they make replacement systems to update the CIS but its costly and I could probably as costly do a swap if I do keep it that is. Anyways tomorrow ill fix that and see if I can adjust the linkage enough to drive it home! anyone knows anything about these HIT MY LINE. Also I believe I found on wikipedia there WAS a 2.3l economy version of this engine (the guy posted it as a 2.3l) but that wasn't available until two years later than this model.

OK BACK TO 240S.

We're moving this week and so I have to get the 240 back on the ground, I got s14 inner tie rods, tien outter tie rods, oem FLCAs, and Walmart adjustable radius/tension rods, yes, Walmart. and they even have spherical mounts WITH rubber weather grommets around the balljoint, AND they only cost me $40. so well see! Still need front rotors and calipers obviously, but I got my spark plugs installed (NGK iridiums ), and a dayco belt. just need a wiring harness, fluids, plumbing, and front brakes and I can drive it! should be done next month! Then the plan is solid subframe risers/bushings, solid differential mounts for the 6 bolt J30 shimmed diff, and then focusing on the body. If I flip the Audi I may just turbo the KA or get a SuPeR ScHwEet BoDy KiT BrO!

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Stay Tuned!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Coming right along. Congrats on the low cost pickup!

[Mitec]

Congrats on the quattro find, those are fun little cars. Also looks like you're making some good progress on the 240 You'll have to let me know how those walmart tension rods work out, cause that's a price I can get behind

[Dbarry]

Great finds man! I'll be checking your works here.

[Blaqkfox]

Long time no see! With the holidays and us moving I haven't hardly had time to work on anything but I have been buying parts! heres the new place!

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I tested some clear coat on one of the doors as well...

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car still pilled with parts from the move...

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looking good tho

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and the Audi had green coolant when I picked it up, I got it running smoothly but the radiator felt like it was hotter than it should be though the temp gauge was reading low and it had only been running a few minutes, then I noticed the coolant is now grey. I think the previous owner did a head gasket a while back, maybe he didn't flush the old coolant out and its residual, because theres no sign of coolant in the oil, just oil in the coolant, I pulled the valve cover off and theres no moisture or signs of coolant present, as well when I drained the oil. I suppose its also possible the previous owner didn't take the head to a machine shop and just slapped it back on or tore part of the gasket or theres a fowled up coolant jacket(?) causing cross contamination, but it runs like a top other than that. I did notice when I drove it around the block it felt down on power, had trouble going up a decent grade hill with it...maybe just old gas or something idk...

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Ill try to keep most of this related to the s13 being this is a Nissan page and not an Audi page, check my Flicker photo stream for more of the Audi if interested...

that being said I cant decide if I want to let this s13 go, but ive got an offer I think is fair so after this week I may have traded both for this G35...

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Untitled by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

It has:
BC coilovers
kinetix intake plenum (though last time I did my research its an expensive way to rob yourself of power in an effort to look cool and the cosworth plenum is really where its at)
75mm throttle body
3.5in intake hose
sold trans and engine mounts
Ap racing front calipers
drilled ebay rotors
Megan test pipes
Megan y pipe
164k miles
2004 6spd cd009 trans swap from 06z
vlsd rear end
was on roderick rw4s 20in wheels but dude hit a pothole the day before we were supposed to meet up and bent a wheel and hurt the front bumper but not too bad so well see I may get it on stock wheels or something...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

If that G35 didn't have solid mounts, I'd say trade it in a heartbeat, but I'd definitely test drive it to make sure it doesn't shake and buzz and rattle you to death.

[Blaqkfox]

long time no see. been busy planning a wedding and taking care of other things I haven't really touched the 40 much since I last posted. I did take all the parts out of it finally this week from where we moved in months ago. the Audi has started taking my time, I found the coil was dead and replaced that then the battery died, replaced that, ran fine all week but couldn't drive it cuz bad tires, so I bleed the coolant and painted a few faded trim pieces. then the day I finally got tires it was crank no start. I verified it was flooding with fuel, so much it was basically hydrolocked on cylinders 1 and 3, and I had a large amount of fuel in the crank case, so I did an oil change and replaced a few old hoses while I was at it and discovered the fan isn't kicking on, there was no fuse in the spot so I got a fuse, then discovered the temp sensor wasn't plugged up so I fixed the wiring on it and it still doesn't kick on, I think the relay is bad one of the terminal ends looks like it got hot. as for the fuel flooding issue I honestly don't know. I need to get a pressure tester on it asap. betting its the CIS plunger or the mechanical injectors not snapping shut or stuck open. the air box pops violently like the metering head is slamming closed for some reason. far as the s13 goes, I did get my whittling j30 diff bushings in and have my wheel bearing halfway fixed for the second time but didn't have the proper sized adapter for the press to finish the job. should have the bearing, diff, axles, and driveshaft in this week or next though. ive heard this debate that the ka with a j30 6 bolt diff utilizing the stock driveshaft causing early or immediate failure of the output shaft seal on the trans and some even said the rear main gets damaged...can anyone verify? I believe I have an s14 driveshaft for what its worth. I believe manual but unsure. also im running an sr trans and circuit racing poly trans and engine mounts if that matters... those that feared failure said something about an auto s14 driveshaft being the solution but that they are hard to come by... heres some pics in the meantime. if im posting too much about the audi lmk and ill limit this to the 240 only.

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[Blaqkfox]

well ive been away for some time now planning the wedding and whatnot, but i finally got some free time and ordered a SS clutch line, solid subframe risers, and silicone rad hoses.

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Untitled by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

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Untitled by Blaqkfox, on Flickr

I also got the audi running good again yesterday, turns out it jumped time on me for a third time, i think the belts just old, and i replaced the shifter bushing, now i just need a timing light and make an adjustment to the shift linkage and i should be dailying it!

[Miss'nMyS13]

Looks great, awesome work you are doing.

[Blaqkfox]

Got my differential bushings in from whiteline for my 6 bolt J30 diff. installed them and refilled the diff with 85-90 (? i cant remember it was a few weeks back...) and some wear additive. i need to borrow or buy or make a trans jack to get this diff back in, or eat a healthy bowl of wheat-Es i guess lol ive started on some more wiring work and making some brackets also found a local guy that will chop and extend my Front LCAs 25mm for me, i have stock s13 lower arms brand new, with new tein outer tie rods and s14 inner tie rods... and both my wheels are towed like / \ . I get my toe ins and outs confused haha. anyways that should solve that. I also still need to install those solid subframe risers and clutch line, wondering if a nismo slave is worth it... as for the Audi its taken most of my time, i cant seem to sell it for anything im willing to take for it and so ive been tinkering with it in my free time. I did get it running and driving, but its a moody car right now lol some days it drives perfect other days it leaves me stranded. i found more vac leaks today so hopefully thats all thats left to have this car sorted out, and i must say i love driving the audi as a daily its extremely comfortable, rides so smooth, it handles really well, and it has a great driver to road connect/response you dont feel except in say an old porsche, and that suprised me the most i think and made me want to keep it even more. hopefully ill have it reliable enough. ill have more pictures of the S13 soon i promise! heres more Audi to tie you over for the mean time, if its ok with the admistration that is...

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[Blaqkfox]

long time no see. ive since sold that audi after months of working on it and not being able to get it running reliably enough. used the cash to buy my first bike. a 2004 ninja 250R. its been a fun little back. and now I have more time for 240 things! so ive since put white line bushings in my rear j30 diff and got in my ARP axle bolts today. I also finally bought a wiring harness and got my front calipers, rotors, and pads. I also found a guy with an amazing 240 filled drift shop around here and he welded and extended my lower control arms 25mm. but now Im having some issues...

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I put the rotor on and started bolting the caliper bracket on but it started to press into the face of the rotor. as you can tell by the picture my caliper bracket mounts way too far back for that long hub. im probably just going to get my bud to CNC up some caliper spacers once I get him the numbers on it but im honestly just curious what the heck my franken-spindles are now... I bought them all as a 5 lug j30 swap for the s13 and the rear hubs are for sure j30. these front spindles though have hubs with fins on them. BUT the s13 lower ball joint fits it perfectly. so I was under the assumption I had j30 spindles with s14 hubs mounted to them. they even have the shims behind the hub and looks like the end of the spindle has been cut off just like in the write up I found on here about how to make said franken-spindles... but everyones been telling me theyre too long to be s14 hubs... the rotors and calipers and all are for sure j30 I work at a parts store and pulled them myself. the j30 spindles I think I have fit the s13 lower ball joint and s14 tie rods and mount up to the coilovers and caliper bracket perfectly btw. maybe they used rear hubs off a FWD car? could these be 200 rear hubs or something??? any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

[Blaqkfox]

I got the differential in! its the j30 6 bolt with 240 shafts and shimmed twice over with new whittling bushings and fresh gear oil and posi additive! I think it was 75-90 weight oil(?) I used. I am worried a little bit cuz I used ace hardware bolts to secure it and I think theyre only like grade 8 maybe even lower grade ill have to double check. went to put the axles in after that and realized my ARP bolts I ordered didn't fit, theyre bolts with nuts and no threads on any of it. I was able to track down 6 of the 12 bolts so I matched those up with another set from my work and popped those in.



also I decided to just buy a used engine harness off a buddy of mine so im tightening all that up right now on the engine. AND I bought new J30 front calipers, rotors, and pads for the thing but quickly discovered bolting the caliper bracket on was pulling the bracket into the rotors face. keep in mind I bought this entire "j30 5 lug swap" for $80 off craigslist and they came with new energy polly bushings still in the packaging which are like $60 by themselves. so turns out the rears are fo so j30 hubs, the front however is confusing everyone I ask. the spindles I THINK are J30, BUT no one knows what hubs I have on them. The spindles have been cut at the tip, and they fit my s13 lower ball joints perfectly. so that makes me believe they are J30. they fit my s14 tie rod ends if it makes a difference to anyone reading this. I have had the hubs off and the j30 wheel bearings fit them perfectly. and they have shims someone put behind the hub, so that and the cut tips of the spindle combined with a finned style oem Nissan hub lead me to believe this was a J30 spindle/ s14 hub Frankenstein'd spindle, BUT then the j30 brakes should fit... and everyone I talk to that has performed extensive 240 work has told me these hubs are too long, defiantly not s14, and they think possibly even the rear hubs off some FWD car??? anyone ever heard of such a thing? at any rate, everything bolts up fine, and if I put 3 washers on each caliper bolt to space the caliper out it works perfectly... so I think im just going to have a friend of mine make some caliper bracket spacers for me to run since everything seems to be working fine together other wise. and I have to buy caliper bracket bolts anyhow so no worried in that regard.




IGNORE the wheel spacers it was before I had brake money and I had to roll it around somehow on z wheels lol



so that about wraps things up! not too much left now! got the front brakes, got the diff and axles in, got engine wired up... that just leaves.... oil, trans fluid, vac lines, intake and MAF, O2 sensor, weld the exhaust up, install solid diff bushings, ignition coil, coolant, fuel lines to engine, run accessory wiring for fuel pump, fan system (two stage relay to sensor no switch ), lighting and wiper wiring, put distribution block together for said wiring, get a battery, either buy new gauges or get those SpeedHut gauges im setup for already, get an alignment, and uhhh yeah thats it really to be drivable!

oh and idk if I mentioned it but sold that audi and used some of it to buy my first bike. just a lil ninja 250 and its been a blast!

[Blaqkfox]

[PapaSmurf2k3]

That's a good looking diff.
I was looking at Ninja 250s back when gas was skyrocketing to (what was then) insane prices, and I didn't have much cash. They are a great deal.
Glad to see it's all coming along. Sucks you couldn't get the Audi squared away, but hey, that's why they are sort of known for that.

[Blaqkfox]

well I sold the ninja. it needed some maintenance and a kid I know through work needed transportation in a bad way while his Miata is getting fitted and tuned for a turbo. he paid me what I had in it and I reinvested the money into the 40! so heres updates so far. its now my main focus. im getting married in less than 60 days and moving in February across the states. onto the project!

for now I mocked the brake calipers up with washers on one side to see how things sit. I took measurements of the bracket I need fabricated and sent it off to my fab guy so im just waiting on that now...




and gave it its first bath in about 8 months or more haha still no clear coat and its been a year



then I hit the youtube up to learn more about my vac lines and printed a page out of the FSM (I saw you guys cant host the FSM link anymore- shame. hope its ok I post it!)



Now onto the fun parts!
As I previously posted I had gutted my OEM gauge cluster and fitted it with a CNC plate for custom gauges, BUT I saw a part I've always lusted after and went for it...



Which brings me to where Im at now... the wiring. It hasn't been as bad as I imagined, in fact its quite simple. Battery power goes to a fuse block, the fuses then go out to a relay (a relay is just an electromagnetic switch trigged by the switches), power sits on the relay until the switch is flipped which when doing so a coil is energized in the relay which creates magnetism causing a little metal contact to be pulled into place completing the circuit and sending power to the component. so the relay is basically just a big switch that is triggered by a little switch, and used for high voltage applications such as the starter or fuel pump, or headlights, wiper motor, ect. its triggered by a low voltage switch cuz well its safer that way. so my power goes from battery, to fuse block, to relay, to a distribution block (for ease of wiring or adding additional wiring later). this picture is kinda like what im building but mine will be slightly different. one of his blocks is for the trigger switches, one for accessory on position of the switch (with the one wire to it in the lower right), one block for the components, and one block for the grounds.
*fused power in from fuse block in upper right corner black wires | red wires = trigger switches | green = components | white = grounds. **I think anyways



I have some of my wiring leads already daily-chain-linked, soldered using oem pigtails, braided together, tapped up, wrapped in loom, and taped again and ran and tucked in the bay as well as the same treatment for the headlight home runs, and turn signals, the tag lighting will be wired separately for... reasons...





I also bought a good used engine wiring harness off a friend and pulled it all apart, it looked solid underneath, and I know it was on a running car that it just got pulled for an SR swap so I trust it will work. I did find 3 or 4 spots where someone had done a patch job. I strengthened their crimp work with some solder and heat shrunk it, rewrapped everything in tape, loomed it all up, ALL of it, and taped it again for added measures... (oh yeah I also installed the injectors and fuel rail BTdubs)



unsure where this plug goes TBH...



or these really...



and the terminal doesnt match my temp sensor... I have 3 bolts on my valve cover so its an s13 engine, but this manifold came off the other s14 engine I had. the guy I picked the block and head up from just had it rebuilt, it felt smooth and still had fresh assembly lube on the crank, cylinder walls looked fresh as well, but he told me it was from an Altima I think he said? how would I know and why would it matter?



It was also already hacked on the dash plug...




OK so I have a few questions: forgive me ive tried searching the forums for months and im still lost on this as far as my application goes...

1) I have no dash harness. is it possible to wire thing like the fuel pump to the key'd ignition without a dash harness? surely someone has done this. I was told the orange wire on the dash connector is the ignition start signal- but what does this wire to? is it for the ecu signal to the pump to turn on? is that my relays "switch" to turn it on? or does this orange wire go to the key or elsewhere??

2) What needs to be hooked where exactly on the key switch/ lock cylinder... like just the radio on the ACC and the starter relayed to the RUN position of the switch? does the fuel pump need to be wired to the switch at all and if so in both the ACC and RUN positions???

3) I saw they sell a 5spd engine harness online... I thought the manuals didn't require a harness really... just hardwire some reverse lights in (on a switch- the only thing I might put on a switch) and wire the speed sensor... which im also lost about... does the speed sensor wire to the ECU or just straight to the gauge? i heard the trans harness has the alternator and o2 plugs on it though and ill need that...

I think that covers everything. I know how to put my fans to run off the sensor rather than a switch, I figured out how to wire the headlights to the OEM stalk switch, so if I can tackle this fuel pump and ignition wiring, I shouldn't really have any switches for anything at all but accessory lighting, and all I lack is engine oil, trans fluid, and running some wires and im on the road with her!

also on order I just got my new knock sensor and ignition control unit in the mail today, and waiting on some aftermarket aero mirrors I ordered, a rear drift armor bash bar with the jackpoint, chase bays fuel line kit with FPR, and a few other goodies... the fun parts are starting to come in as things finish up. for now its just a little restoration for a fun daily. after that who knows, maybe ill keep it and swap engines one day or turbo this KA... stay tuned!

[Blaqkfox]

oh I also heard the alternator needs a wire from the plug ran for constant power so ill have to tap into that I guess. I mean besides the big main direct battery constant power wires ill have run for things like the starter, alternator, ignition key switch, I think that it? I need a wiring guru to talk to...

[Blaqkfox]

The GKTech side mirrors came in today. Basically Ganador knock offs. The quality is pretty good, but my complaint about them is the supplied hardware is simply corse thread screws that screw into the molding of the plastic backing plate / mirror bracket. Maybe I installed them incorrectly, at first I thought they just fit outside of the rubber door gasket, but the top mounting screw doesnt meet the door metal flush because of the rubber garnet. So I removed the rubber door seal to find that theres no possible way it fits over bracket. So I installed them anyways for now because I was excited to finally see a mirror on my passenger door haha. temporary just for tonight of course to get a look. the way the bracket is designed almost looks like the top sharp corner of the gasket is to fit over that part of the mirror which would probably solve the fitment problem so I will try that tomorrow. Beside fitment and cheep quality I also have to complain a little more about the hardware, the screws are rather small compared to the holes they mount through and the plastic isn't designed to fit inside the metal hole precisely either, which results in the mirror being able to move about with what to me seems like little force. hopefully the fitment issue is part of this problem and routing the gasket over the top will help hold things in place. I didn't want to crank down on the screws too much to hold things in place because they just screw into the plastic mold so if you break the mold then you're, well... screwed. im going to see if theres any way to reinforce the mounting design... heres the results for tonight on a rough fitment. (I haven't had a chance to run to the fastener store yet so I still need axle bolts to drop it back on all fours lol)









NX1600 gauge cluster will be arriving tomorrow! and the excedy clutch master cylinder came into today as well too! still waiting on the other goods to arrive stay tuned!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

For your wiring questions:
1- the keyed ignition goes to a relay and has separate circuits for accessory and "key on". If at all possible, I'd probably try to not mess with any of that, but I'm sure what you're asking can be done.
2 - See above. I'm not aware of any of those things being wired directly to the cylinder... think of the ignition cylinder as a 4 position switch that directs power to the various circuits. (off, accessory, on, start)
3- The manual harness has 4th and 5th gear sensors, reverse switch, neutral safety switch (I think?), and speed sensor. The speed sensor goes to the gauge and then to the ECU for speed limiter purposes. The ECU doesn't really need that signal. I'm not sure how it would work without the 4th and 5th gear sensors... you may get a check engine light, but probably not.

As far as the harness vs those sensors that don't fit - you're probably better off just replacing the coolant temp sensors with ones that fit instead of hacking into the harness. Those harnesses are real fickal in that location.

[Blaqkfox]

Thanks PapaSmurf2k3!

So ive been asking around on this wiring, im not very good with wiring so ive tried to avoid wiring work except for the simple stuff, and now my inexperience and lack of knowledge has left me in a bind here, but any who thats my main issue here PapaSmurf, the chassis harness that runs under the driver fender was cut in half. its the portion of wiring that has the fuse blocks on it and runs into that big white junction block on the driver side by the interior fuse block and is held on by that single 10mm bolt in the middle. I have thought about just removing the 10mm bolt and unplugging it but that removes all my wiring that has the fuse blocks and relays so I will have to make my own fuse block from scratch anyhow. Thus I decided to go the racecar route with it and do just that. Batter to fuse block out to relays which will have the switches and components and grounds hooked up to them and fuel pump will just have to be on a switch. which is fine, but at first I wondered why I couldn't just run constant power to the key switch (like it does) and have the last two key positions (crank/start and ON ) be wired to kick the relay for the fuel pump on... only thing I find with this is while it may look and feel cleaner I would be better off just using a toggle switch so in the event of an accident I can quickly cut the fuel supply. so thats fine and dandy ill just forget all that and run it off a switch. it sounds like everyone that does this for engine swaps basically doesnt use the key for anything- they just use a main battery cut off and switches for everything from accessories to fuel pump to fans. so my two questions out of all this have become:

1) GAUGE CLUSTER. ill have to chuck my dash harness based on this info above. everyone I see building their own fuse blocks like I will be just jumps into the brown dash plug for the speedo and tac ect. since the brown plug is on the dash harness.... should I just take these ECU wires straight to the corresponding gauge cluster wires or is there something in between im missing?

2) KEY SWITCH. what do I do with it? if everything is on switches whats it purpose besides just unlocking the steering column? should I wire the accessories to this rather than a toggle switch? I have the lighting working on the OEM switch, my only switches rn will be the fuel pump switch, an emergency fan override switch, and I think I have to have an ignition switch? or can I use the key switch for the ignition on- speaking of ignition on I still don't understand where this orange "ignition start" wire coming out of the ECU goes... to a switch I suppose? its just for power I mean for the ignition components in the harness?

[Blaqkfox]

COMING OUT OF THE ECU (already hacked harness I bought off a buddy)









THE DASH CONNECTOR PLUG



THE BODY HARNESS THATS BEEN CUT



OTHER SIDE OF THE CUT WIRING



which has an ECU plug on it???? what????

[Blaqkfox]

im guessing its an ECU plug in that last picture but its smaller than my KA24de plug. car used to have an SR in it so who knows, but you can see why im ditching all this wiring...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah... I mean you'd be best off going to the junk yard and getting a factory set of harnesses at this point. Sounds like everything is FUBAR.

[Blaqkfox]

sitting here looking through the FSM pages on the wiring, look like the Speed sensor wire, temp sensor wire, and tac sensor wire coming out of the ECU to the brown dash plug all just route over through the SMJ (that white junction box) and run over straight to the gauges. So thats good news I can just wire those directly through and it doesnt matter that I don't have a dash harness. and if the myths are true and I can use a single cam speed sensor then thats perfect cuz I have a single cam engine harness, and ive heard you can use the s14 temp sensor and I have an s14 manifold so that all lines up perfect I hope. So all my main gauges will still work. I never use AC so im just chucking all those components, BUT I do want heat so I can defrost the windshield on those cold mornings. thinking I can just grab a new heater core, use the OEM cable driven valve for the heater core pipe work, and put the blower fan on a single throw switch and run the dash air duct work so its always just the defroster and dash vents - both always on no selector switch. that'd be easiest Im thinking. fan would only have one high setting but thats all I want out of it anyhow. that just leaves radio and cigarette lighter port which are easy enough and straight forward even without the dash harness. and if im feeling fancy ill wire all the dummy lights on the cluster for like the doors and headlight brights and all that, im guessing I just wire the clusters night backlighting to the headlight switch so it kicks on with the lights? I still don't understand what to do with the ignition switch wires since theres no dash harness will my key really do anything but unlock the column? and I still don't know what this orange "ignition start" wire is for the ECU to brown dash plug, but I haven't searched in the forums much yet on it... for now cuz of time it'll be no dash harness. once the car is done im just gonna keep an eye out for a new one in good shape bc I would like to have all the little bells and whistles and install the digital AC/Heat control unit one day and have an OBD port and really make it into a nice daily, for now just wanna get it started and driving!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Oh yeah, I meant to say that yeah, your key at that point would just unlock the steering wheel.

[Blaqkfox]

OK so Ive since printed out the entire FSM and went through the electrical pages highlighting wires, doing more research on how I should wire this key switch. I think I understand it now.










Im still trying to wrap my head around exactly where each wire will run from the key switch and how exactly to run the wiring most efficiently, but it looks like ill do something along these lines; of a 4 pin relay to IGN and a 5 pin triggered off its power to cuz accessory items when I bump the starter.





and im super excited about my NX1600 cluster. this one is an auto though, but who cares, its gonna be a witch to wire in... I just don't wanna accidentally send power to the wrong wire and blow the damn thing, I way overpaid for it haha. can this gauge cluster handle a direct 12V to its power wire or does it run on 5 like most electronics boards tend to do?



On another note my Circuit Sports overflow tank came in. the bottom hose inlet didn't quite fit so I just dented in my fender well in that spot haha im planning on welding in wider ones or ditching them all together down the road anyhow so whatever drift car lol but I am really pleased with the quality and price of this item. they always do a pretty bang up job as far as presentation and quality I feel like!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Engine bay is looking good!

[Blaqkfox]

Thanks mate! getting there! still need a MAF and pipework, O2 sensor and the rest of the exhaust welded on, some bushings for the radiator up top maybe, and small lines here and there. I managed to grab some 89 Sentra B13 Front lower ball joints for my rear lower control arms, they fit perfectly. That was the last suspension component needed besides sway bar bushings (which I bought tonight too! Energy poly ones too!) so I hurriedly slapped it all together, but one of my axles stripped the outer nut so I ordered a new axle now. sigh. ive got way too much money in this thing for all it is lol. I also got a new slave cylinder tonight and the clutch fork boot. bought a center console FINALLY off a local kid and he's got more trim to complete my interior too so should have that underway soon. I just picked up materials for making my power distribution board, I found a sweet mounting location behind the glove box so everything will be tucked away and have factory feel inside, and simply just flex the glovebox past the stoppers to let it all the way down and reveal the fuses and relays and all that! Still got a little wiring to figure out but I believe ive about got it all underway, I did discover my soldering technique has been faulty and I will need to re do my solder joints on the headlights and pop up motors- ugh, but better now than later I suppose... soon as the axle is in I can move her outside and do the clear coat finally, and ill be dropping the subframe so I can install the solid risers and remove the gas tank to do some cleaning and freshening lines up and cleaning the underbelly of the chassis as well. Im hustling now with this build trying to get it done this month, or atleast before halloween... or Christmas... I feel like I said this two years ago wait...