Post by
Blaqkfox »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/blaqkfox-u258487.html
Sun Apr 07, 2019 12:30 pm
yeah my old roommate was telling me theres some law here in WA about that? that you can actually legally go take a shakedown drive on rebuilt "race cars" but you're limited to 30 miles. course sometimes he gets a little mixed up on details so im not positive ill have to look into that! Either way tomorrow the oil pressure gauge shows up and my subconscious keeps going "dude just wait till the oil gauge gets in so you don't blow it up over something silly like that." so kinda glad the tags stopped me. hopefully tomorrow when the DMV is open I can go get all my paperwork done, come home to an oil gauge to install, and then depending on weather and light ill either take it for the break in tomorrow or Tuesday if weather allows, lots of rain this week unfortunately. Yesterday I got all the lighting sorted out lmao I had the turn signal indicators on the cluster backwards and tried to correct it in the dark and messed it all up, took me all yesterday to correct lmao. but its all right now! im installing the fan switch today, and thats everything but a blower switch and radio! im so so freaking happy to be down with all the wiring! But learning as much as I did along the way I really have a hankering to want to go back and do it all a little better eventually. like the way I ran my loomed harnesses and all im actually really happy with except that little rats nest looking pile by my wiper motor. its all correct, its just all bunched together bc of all the fuse box and battery relocation situation and trying to keep the bay looking pretty clean. but id love to find a better spot for that fuse panel than where everyone (including me) puts it by the passengers feet, just if my wife throws her purse down there and one of those metal tabs that hangs off the zippers lays across a few terminals on my distribution block then everything would get fried. works better for track cars lmao. I kept all HVAC so no room up there to hide it. I shouldve put it where the SMJ originally goes and that would've looked a lot cleaner, but also would be closer to weather elements risk so give and take. hell for now it all works I just need to take some tape and loom and get it all looking a little cleaner! ive found the wiring to be funny when I post with questions about it on FB groups people seem to assume its all janky and messed up and im like nah its all hardwired lmao no body harness or half of them are like OMG thats crazy great job lol especially the wiring pages. I cant tell you HOW many people over the years have told me "that 240 will never run" or "you're never gonna be able to wire it up to the factory switches man, not without the body harness youre screwed." well piss on all y'all, she runs great, all the OEM switches work on all OEM functions just about (minus a few wiper settings and the pop up headlights bc I haven't hooked the timing module up), but I couldn't be more excited!
As well yesterday I got the cigarette port working so I can charge my phone while I work now lmao. and I got the dash headlight indication bulb working for when the headlights are on as well. Brake lights now working, all running lights, turn signals, wipers, and hazard button even works appropriately like factory. have yet to take a break in drive so im not sure if my speedometer actually works or not. it'll be interesting to see if it reads double when it does work. im not sure how the SR sensor will read to it, but im thinking correctly, we shall see lol
The plan is to start it up and immediately hold it about 2k RPMs for around 20 min, till it comes up to temp while im putting coolant in it, set the timing once it gets warm, then shut it down, let it get bare bones cold again. Drain oil, cut filter open and inspect for large metal pieces. Start it back up and let it get warm holding idle high still and then go for a drive, never letting it idle, always keeping the RPMs moving through the range up and down. I won't redline it im not that type and this isn't a loose built race engine but I am going to hammer on it on the break in run, powering through the gear, but not exceeding 4k RPMs, then letting it rev down with as best engine breaking as possible, then after the first 2 hours or 250 miles of driving im going to change the oil again. Then basically go out and keep doing the same thing but I believe I aught to be able to let it idle now? not going to risk it probably though, and then when I hit 500 miles ill call that a pretty good break in and change the oil a final time before returning to regular oil changes at 3k miles. eh 500 mile break in likely depending on how it feels, may keep it up till 800 miles or 1k miles not sure yet. as well of course I seem to get a different answer no matter who I ask on break in. "Baby it!" "no break in break in" "beat the living tar out of it" these are what I kept hearing. after looking into it I found a guy who built two engines fresh and beat one in and followed the more gentle factory recommended procedure on the other, first taking the engines to be spec'd at a machinist, then after breaking them in checked the compression and leak down and all those figures, took it back to machinist, did full engine break down and re measured it all and turns out even all but one non factor measurement was really any different to the .001th of a degree. So does it make a difference? a little bit. it always depends on application. mine just has new rods and bearings and im thinking rings since there wasn't any cross hatching on the cylinder walls and the rings stuck from sitting just like a year... yeah. so I don't have to worry with any cam break in or anything but I definitely don't want to seize a wrist pin or spin a bearing or anything so were gonna take it slow--ish and try to do this break in correctly and carefully. any tips for break in lmk!