Well I was just wondering the stock measurement of the threads, I'm under the impression that the manual should come with some sort of little reference table.
I really wanted to get the front tophats off without pressure, because there's horrible gritty grease in the threads, and I don't want to turn the seats without wiping it off first. The front upper spring seats DO have spanner notches, but I don't know if I can turn them against the bolt, without stripping things or putting them on too tight, even if the bolt comes off.
And I don't think turning the top bolt, even with the whole thing laden in a vehicle, will get it off. I think that will just turn the piston against the damper housing. The fsm seems to say thats how you do the stock ones, though.
I'm currently in the process of borrowing a deep socket to get at the top nut, but I really need to know if it's okay to hold the spring seat with a spanner, to torque against-or if that would strip out, or overtighten, the seat, which I still need to get off to get at the mess underneath.
I did get tein to email me the manual, which is nice. But it essentially tells me to use magic to get the nut off. It says that you shouldn't use an impact wrench because it will scramble the dampers guts, but if you have to, don't come crying to tein, and that you shouldn't clamp the rod with anythich that could scratch it (ie. anything at all) and that, despite all that, the torque spec on the front in 42ft/lb. Also, their height suggestion is 1in from the bottom of the screws, which is the first point at which the spring actually is put under tension.... does that mean that's as low as the car can go? because otherwise I don't see how the springs could stay safely seated.
-edit- got it, the upper spring seats are keyed, not threaded, and are acceptable to use to torque the nut. So without further adu, I will edit this thread and turn it into a pretend build thread. Or, with one day's adu.
