S13 Chasise
S13 Chasise
If i were to drop a RB25DET engine in a RPS13 would the Chaisse twist, if i were to go like 150 down a track?
Dauntless
What sort of bracing would be required to combat that?Would items like strut bars, ladder bars, and cross bars be enough or would a roll cage be in order?What about welding the chassis seams? I've seen refrence to this in rally racing but am not really sure what the benefits or drawbacks would be on the street/track.
On another note I want to give you credit for being a driving force in the 240 comminity here in the US. I used to own a Mustang and loved it for the aftermarket support and the wealth of grassroots knowledge backing it up. Buying a 240 is an action I'm proud of, especially knowing there are enthusiasts like you willing to push the limits of the cars engineering and share what you learn with the rest.Especially being the only one (I've heard of) here in the states willing to do an RB swap. I need to get myself a corner downtown and start making some extra $$$.
What sort of bracing would be required to combat that?Would items like strut bars, ladder bars, and cross bars be enough or would a roll cage be in order?What about welding the chassis seams? I've seen refrence to this in rally racing but am not really sure what the benefits or drawbacks would be on the street/track.
On another note I want to give you credit for being a driving force in the 240 comminity here in the US. I used to own a Mustang and loved it for the aftermarket support and the wealth of grassroots knowledge backing it up. Buying a 240 is an action I'm proud of, especially knowing there are enthusiasts like you willing to push the limits of the cars engineering and share what you learn with the rest.Especially being the only one (I've heard of) here in the states willing to do an RB swap. I need to get myself a corner downtown and start making some extra $$$.
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Daunttless
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Yeah, I would suggest strut bars, ladder bars ( sway bars), and a rear crossbar. A roll cage would definitely solidfy things and would remove the need for a crossbar. Additionally you could get something like the JUN rear mainbar, ( as seen on their Lemon Drag Car running an 8.88 and maintaining the factory body and independent suspension setup ) that would obviously significantly help as well. Just depends on how much money you want to spend. Not sure on the welding of the chassis seams....
Also, you're welcome for the knowledge I suppose. : ) Like another guy said, no sense in hoarding the knowledge when people who were gonna have you do the work will still have you do the work. And the people who weren't will just despise you if you refuse to help them. : ) I try to do what I can... : ) Enjoy your day!
Also, you're welcome for the knowledge I suppose. : ) Like another guy said, no sense in hoarding the knowledge when people who were gonna have you do the work will still have you do the work. And the people who weren't will just despise you if you refuse to help them. : ) I try to do what I can... : ) Enjoy your day!
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Daunttless
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I'm pretty sure JUN USA has a picture, http://www.junusa.com , I"m not sure where it is on their site though...
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Daunttless
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Well, I suppose it depends on how long you want to go 150, and whether your accelerating or not, I would imagine if you were just cruising at 150 and weren't torquing like mad you'd be alright, but if you want to go 150 mph I would HIGHLY suggest a roll cage as well. You'd be stupid not to have one.
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Daunttless
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Well, the whole point of it is to affect handling as little as possible, and at the same time improve one's ability to drag. : ) I'd imagine it affects handling significantly less than back halfing your car which is basically the only other option. : ) I'll let you know how it goes, I'm gonna put one on my car. : )
I don't know if Daunt sells cages but here is a place that has autopower bars and cages for all kinds of cars. Including 240s
http://www.upgrademotoring.com/safety/autopower.htm
http://www.upgrademotoring.com/safety/autopower.htm
NightXCZ77 wrote:As far as Daunt being the only one here in the states willing to do a RB swap, man, have you been reading posts lol? I am more than willing to do the swaps and have already done a few. I have done the RB25 into a 240SX and the RB20 into a 280ZX. I am still trying to find more cars to do the RB swap into. I charge $1000 for install and help over the phone so you can do it yourself is free.
haha I was wondering how long it would be until you caught me on that:)I posted and the very next thread I looked at was yours. Sorry for assuming too much.
You're in Seattle right? What are the emissions like in Washington, I'm finishing my degree this year and am looking at either Cali or Washington. I have family in Washington and if it has looser emissions it sounds better than California.Though there is all that fugging rain:mad:
lucas_420:
I've had my hand in a few rally cars. We're building a new one that is fully seam welded. As the primary welder in the project I can tell you seam welding is a pain in the a$$. We do it to improve the rigidity of the car and to help out a bit in an impact. I'm not sure about Nissans yet, but Dodges are held together with coat hanger and bubble gum. Unless you are stripping down a car to the shell and have easy access to a sandblaster, welder and a paint gun, I would say there are better ways to stiffen a car than seam welding.
Oh, and not to sound like a d1ck, but I've seen fist hand what an autopower bolt in cage does in a crash. Not pretty. A hillclimber went off the outside of a left hander, go cought in the ditch and flipped the passenger A-pillar into a tree. The A-pillar from the autopower was resting on his e-brake. Autopowers don't use a dash bar, so the A-pillars like to fold. If you were serious about a cage, find an experienced builder, and not one of those NA$CAR idiots either. A good cage made out of 120 wall D.O.M. should cost around $2000. Sorry, but you get what you pay for. I haven't out my cage to the test yet, hopefully I won't have to.
I've had my hand in a few rally cars. We're building a new one that is fully seam welded. As the primary welder in the project I can tell you seam welding is a pain in the a$$. We do it to improve the rigidity of the car and to help out a bit in an impact. I'm not sure about Nissans yet, but Dodges are held together with coat hanger and bubble gum. Unless you are stripping down a car to the shell and have easy access to a sandblaster, welder and a paint gun, I would say there are better ways to stiffen a car than seam welding.
Oh, and not to sound like a d1ck, but I've seen fist hand what an autopower bolt in cage does in a crash. Not pretty. A hillclimber went off the outside of a left hander, go cought in the ditch and flipped the passenger A-pillar into a tree. The A-pillar from the autopower was resting on his e-brake. Autopowers don't use a dash bar, so the A-pillars like to fold. If you were serious about a cage, find an experienced builder, and not one of those NA$CAR idiots either. A good cage made out of 120 wall D.O.M. should cost around $2000. Sorry, but you get what you pay for. I haven't out my cage to the test yet, hopefully I won't have to.
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themadscientist
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4cefed:thanks for the heads up.
As far as the autopower cages, a real d*ck would have said nothing, they sound like a deathtrap when you put them to the test. Do you, or does anyone know of a good cage builder in Oregon or the Northwest?
I tried to have a custom roll bar made up for my convt. mustang when I had it, but all the race shops I could find refused to put a bar in a street car. I guess the insurace companies in Oregon are a pain about that, but something is better than nothing right?.
As far as the autopower cages, a real d*ck would have said nothing, they sound like a deathtrap when you put them to the test. Do you, or does anyone know of a good cage builder in Oregon or the Northwest?
I tried to have a custom roll bar made up for my convt. mustang when I had it, but all the race shops I could find refused to put a bar in a street car. I guess the insurace companies in Oregon are a pain about that, but something is better than nothing right?.
Sorry, I'm in the east. If you feel like taking a road trip to Vermont for a month I can give you some names. If you are looking at someone's work, there's only a couple things I can think of so try and guess how good the builder is.
See how "tucked" the cage is. A good builder will keep the bars very close to the bodywork of the car. I've seen a few that you can't stuff a razor blade between the car and the bar.
Check out the welds. If they look like bird droppings, you may want to look elsewhere. Important joints really should be heliarc'd, but a master with a stick or a big MIG can do the job.
The tube HAS to be D.O.M. (drawn over mandrel). That welded stuff will split. Chrome-moly is kind of expensive unless your garage says "Ralliart" or "Prodrive" on it somewhere.
Hope this helped.
See how "tucked" the cage is. A good builder will keep the bars very close to the bodywork of the car. I've seen a few that you can't stuff a razor blade between the car and the bar.
Check out the welds. If they look like bird droppings, you may want to look elsewhere. Important joints really should be heliarc'd, but a master with a stick or a big MIG can do the job.
The tube HAS to be D.O.M. (drawn over mandrel). That welded stuff will split. Chrome-moly is kind of expensive unless your garage says "Ralliart" or "Prodrive" on it somewhere.
Hope this helped.
On the subject of cages a good guideline would be to get a NHRA rule book and try to use it as a sort of guide for whomever will be building it for you.Also when it is done you can take it to your local strip and have the tech guy do an inspection on it,he will tell you whats wrong and whats right and its usally free.For ANYONE considering putting a cage in a streetcar PLEASE cover the bars with the thick foam padding and always wear your seatbelt if you have one(its a good idea anyway).I have a friend who had a cage in his chevelle and he was sitting at a stop sign when a lady ran into him and he hit his head on the bar and as a result he was in a coma for eight weeks and he now has severe brain damage.Please use the padding,especially since chances are you probally won't be wearing a helmet in a street car,and in all actuality rollcages are really intended to be used in conjunction with a helmet.
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Redline240
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themadscientist
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Yeah it was a pretty bad deal all around , crazy stuff like that happens all the time but it does'nt seem real untill it happens to someone you know,I'm just glad he has a really good family that helps him out now.I would just hate for it to happen to someone else,because it is really something that can be pretty easily over looked.I never even really thought about it untill that happened.As far as getting a cage built I would try to find someone who builds round track cars chasis and talk to them about it right now in the dead of winter,because no one is racing that means no one is wrecking which means they are probally pretty broke.......===GOOD DEAL FOR YOU!!
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