I've searched and didn't find anything, found mostly s14s
I ditched my SR project and decided to go KA-T. I've been eye balling the BD stage 1 kit. Any s13 BD kit owners out there mind giving me a review bout BD"s kit?
ALso, I have a Greddy VSPL intercooler sitting around. Can I just use my Greddy with the BD 1 kit?(might have to modify the piping)
S13 Boost Designs owners...
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eastcoastchaos
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: S13 Boost Designs owners... (BomexS13)
email me at [email protected] have the BD Stage1 installed since Jan1.
Re: (BomexS13)
Would it be cool if you just posted your opinion?
Because I'm interested as well..
if not, email what you tell them to [email protected] pls!
Because I'm interested as well..
if not, email what you tell them to [email protected] pls!
rseabrooke, If you have time, could you email me what you think of the BD kit? Im debating whether i want it or not... Thanks. my Email is- [email protected]
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: S13 Boost Designs owners... (BomexS13)
91 S13 Stock KA24DE 166kStage1 Boost Design kit (8PSI)Fuel Management FMU 12:1 Walbro 255MSD SS CoilSPEC II ClutchB&M Short ShifterBRM 2.5 Dual tip exhaustNo Clutch fanNISMO ThermostatNISMO Radiator capTiming chain makes noiseStock timing.Spark Plug gaps .32Dyno Results by Walker Dyno (Blake) 8PSI 202rwhp
My first impression driving the stage 1 kit. I could not believe how hard the car pulled all the way to red line. This thing has turned into a torque monster! If you have an open differential forget starting from a dead stop! My car started bouncing and going all over the road.
Next thing I installed a MBC after talking to Blake at Walker Dyno. Why because he said it would be safe and could go to 12PSI. The other reason is obvious boost is very addictive!!Added TurboXS MBC Now running 10PSI (Stock timing)
This was done shortly after I installed the kit and MBC. I was having a lot of wheel hop and traction was a problem. I do not have a launching problem since installing these parts.Rear subframe bushing collarsJ30 differential
Have not installed the NISMO motor mounts. Engine wants to jump out of the car!
My first impression driving the stage 1 kit. I could not believe how hard the car pulled all the way to red line. This thing has turned into a torque monster! If you have an open differential forget starting from a dead stop! My car started bouncing and going all over the road.
Next thing I installed a MBC after talking to Blake at Walker Dyno. Why because he said it would be safe and could go to 12PSI. The other reason is obvious boost is very addictive!!Added TurboXS MBC Now running 10PSI (Stock timing)
This was done shortly after I installed the kit and MBC. I was having a lot of wheel hop and traction was a problem. I do not have a launching problem since installing these parts.Rear subframe bushing collarsJ30 differential
Have not installed the NISMO motor mounts. Engine wants to jump out of the car!
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: (K240)
Emails sent.
Re: (rseabrooke)
Dont take this the wrong way, but, whats with the emailing?
Is there some kind of rule that were not allowed to talk about BD (good or bad) just because their board sponsored?
Good or bad it should be posted here.
Is there some kind of rule that were not allowed to talk about BD (good or bad) just because their board sponsored?
Good or bad it should be posted here.
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DRIFTEADOR
- Posts: 706
- Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:17 am
Re: S13 Boost Designs owners... (rseabrooke)
did you dyno with a/f?
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emperor_lunchbox
- Posts: 1305
- Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2004 6:31 am
- Car: 91 240sx, 96 eclipse spyder, and 96 camaro z28 (For Sale)
I am also considering this kit. I would like to know if anyone has this kit as well as the turbo motor from them. I was thinking about getting both because my motor is getting tired *166,000* and I dont have the time to rebuild. so this kit and the turbo block should make an interesting combo.
also, how well does a stock motor do with this kit?
also, how well does a stock motor do with this kit?
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: (PalmerWMD)
I would love to but my document was created in Wordperfect and converted to PDF. So if know what I need to do that would help.
THanks
THanks
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hannibal
- Posts: 9680
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2002 2:38 am
- Car: Red Line to Glenmont
- Location: Washington DC
Re: (rseabrooke)
If you still have the WordPerfect file, you could just copy the text into a post.
If not, email it to me please [email protected]
If not, email it to me please [email protected]
Re: (rseabrooke)
can you not copy paste the origianal word doc?
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: (IWannaS15)
I will try it but if it looks like crap I wil have to get some help fixing it.
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: S13 Boost Designs owners... (BomexS13)
Stage1 Kit with FMU
Things that you can do before your kit arrives and still be able to drive your car. Make sure your car is set at stock timing for StageI with FMU or StageII with the Enthalpy ECU upgrade. If you plan on using anything else the standard rule is retard base timing .5 per psi above 8 psi. The gap on the spark plugs need to be change from factory 45 gap to 32 gap. If your project is going to take longer then a weekend to install you may want to have your battery recharged the day before you try to start the car. You can get this done for free at AutoZone by telling them you need to charge and test your battery.
If this is your first turbo project I would highly recommend going the FMU and Walbro fuel pump route. It is plug and play. Remember that the more you change things the more chances of things going wrong and the harder it is to trouble shoot what the problem is. Plus you don`t have to change your injectors, mess with wiring or programming. The FMU adds more fuel pressure for every psi. This works well up to 10 psi boost. Later if you want to upgrade to the Stage II, all you have to do is remove the FMU and sell it on the internet. The Walbro fuel pump will handle the fuel delivery all the way through StageIII.
1. Compression test. Need to do a compression test now to make sure everything is within standards. It will also help you troubleshoot knowing what your compression now will take the guess work out later. The compression gauge( $40 at Autozone) will come with instructions on how to do this properly. Make sure you have a fully charged battery and a good starter(300rpm). The standard compression on all cylinders is 180. The lowest compression that you should read is 151. There should be no more then 14 difference between cylinders. If your readings are close to 151 you might want to consider rebuilding your motor first.
2. Relocate the battery in the trunk. This needs to be done in order to have room for the IC piping. I went to the stereo shop and got a distribution block to connect all the power cables to in the front of the car and a positive distribution block for the trunk. I went to Autozone and got a plastic battery tray and battery hold down kit. Remove the old battery tray. The tray is welded to different parts of the body. I used an air hammer to remove it.
3. Remove the AIV and Pair valve. This needs to be done to allow enough room to install the turbo kit.
4. Weld the return bung Remove the oil pan and weld the return plug with plug installed. This will save you a lot of time when you get ready to install the Stage1 kit. It will also give you some time to test for any oil leaks before you install your kit.
5. Install Walbro fuel pump The fuel pump is located in the trunk on the passenger side. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump and remove the fuel cap. The fuse is located on the passenger side next to the water overflow tank. Start the car and let it run until it quits. This will remove the fuel pressure from the fuel line. Remove the cover and disconnect the wire. Unbolt the fuel pump assembly and disconnect the 2 fuel lines. The directions for replacing the pump are included in the kit. This would also be a good time to install the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge goes between the fuel filter and the fuel rail.
Parts needed to be purchased to install Stage1 kit▸ Oil and oil filter. The kit requires you to remove the oil pan and weld a return bung in the oil pan.▸ Spark plugs NGK gapped at 32.▸ Walbro 255 fuel pump($99 at BD). ▸ Mechanical fuel pressure gauge($12 local) and 1/8 NPT T 3/8 barb($12 local). This gauge would go after the fuel filter(Pressure side). This will help when you dyno your car and tell you if your FPR and FMU is working properly.▸ Boost gauge($50 at BD). You will also have to determine where to place the gauge. I decided on the piller pod($40 at BD). You will need to get an npt 1/4 adapter with a barb nozzle($3 local) on the other end to connect to the vacuum line. Home Depot is your friend here.▸ Autozone felpro gasket set($10) for the exhaust manifold. ▸ Teflon tape for all the NPT fittings. ▸ Gasket sealer for the oil pan. ▸ WD40 and carb cleaner(Stuff you should have). ▸ Hose clamps 8 *2.5, 6 *3/8, 1 *3, 1 *3.5 . ▸ Vacuum line T`s. ▸ 1 2.5 inch mandrel bend U pipe to connect to the stock MAF and Turbo inlet.▸ 3 to a 2.5 reducer coupler and one 6 inch long 2.5 inch coupler. ▸ 14 2.5inch hose clamps▸ 2 3.5inch hose clamps▸ About 2feet of 5/16 Fuel injection hose.▸ Vacuum lines I went to the store several times to get everything I needed. Careful planning is needed to know how much of what you are going to need. Another words you need to know where everything is going to be located and what size hose will connect to each actuator device(FMU, wastgate, BOV and boost gauge).▸ PCV air filter and plastic pipe to connect to the existing hose. The plastic pipe can be purchased at Home Depot.▸ Oil strainer pickup gasket. You will need this because you will have to remove the oil strainer to remove the oil pan. There are 2 different gaskets for the S13 make sure you order the correct one. I ordered the wrong one and had to make mine from a gasket sheet.
Optional ▸ Remove Mechanical Fan and Shroud This step would be optional but I would recommend it. Removing the fan shroud and mechanical fan. This will give you a lot of extra room and make it easier to work on the engine. Only draw back is that you will need a electric fan, NISMO thermostat and radiator cap to prevent overheating. If you plan on doing this you will need to get at least 12 washers. The washers will be needed to go between the pulley and lock nut. You will notice 4 small vacuum lines going across the fan shroud. 2 go to the pair valve and 2 go to the fuel canister( I removed my fuel canister). All 4 need to be cut and plugged up. There is also a large hose that is connected to the fan shroud and air intake that will not be needed.
Installing Stage 1 kit
1. Tools required 2 jack stands 1 floor jack 1 Breaker bar Several different extensions Metric sockets 3/8 Deep well 14mm,12mm. Metric sockets 3/8 standard 8mm,10mm,12mm and 14mm Metric socket 1/4 standard 10mm Metric socket ½ Impact 14mm and Impact extension Wrenches 10mm,12mm and 14mm Weld bung on the oil pan Weld a connector on the IC piping for the BOV WD40 Oil wrench Oil container Compression gauge Needle nose pliers Channel locks Tool to cut 3 inch hole Wire cutters Mechanic gloves (You will thank me later) Carb Cleaner ( I like this better then engine cleaner) Lots of shop towels 2. Find a location that you can jack your front end up and leave for several days. You want to jack the front end up at least 2 feet to allow you room to get under the car and remove the oil pan, exhaust system and front bumper.
3. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump. It is located on the passenger side next to the water overflow tank. Start the car and let it run until it quits. This will remove the fuel pressure from the fuel line.
4. Disconnect the battery ground cable, drain oil pan and remove the oil filter and oil sending unit.
5. Remove the nut that is holding the motor mount from the bottom on both sides. Remove the 2 bolts on each side that is holding the front sway bar to the frame. This will allow you to remove the oil pan towards the front of the car. Place the jack under the transmission and jack it up enough were you can remove the oil pan (It does not take much).After taking off all the bolts holding the pan use a screw driver(be careful not to bend the pan) to pry the pan from the block. Once the pan is broken loose and kind of hanging there, you will want to unbolt the pickup tube(3 bolts) to make it easier to remove the oil pan. After removing the pan weld the return bung on with the center of the bung on the drivers side of the pan exactly 6" back from the front body of the pan (not the flange) and 7/8" from the underside of the top rail. You will find it to be pretty close to the spot weld that holds the windage tray in place. This will place the return between the front of the motor mount and the back of the AC compressor.
6. Removing the exhaust system. Remove 3 bolts holding the exhaust system to the exhaust manifold. Remove 2 bolts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust system. Once this is done it will allow you to remove a 2 foot section of the exhaust system. Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold. Remove the EGR metal tube (3/4 inch tube) from the back of the exhaust manifold. You will need to block off this tube this will not be needed. Remove the bolt holding the oil dipstick and move out of the way. Remove the heat shield (6 bolts).Now you can remove the exhaust manifold(8 nuts).
7. Remove the entire air box assembly. You should notice a nice cut 2 ½ hole this is where the IC piping will route through.. The MAF is connected to the air intake disconnect the wire and Remove the air intake connected to the throttle body.
8. Install the new BD manifold and new exhaust gaskets tighten down to specs. Before bolting the turbo to the manifold loosen the bolts on the cold side of the turbo. Connect the oil return line to the oil pan bung. Next connect the oil return line to the turbo. Bolt the turbo to the manifold( there are no gaskets for this because it is a machined surface.) Next bolt the downpipe to the turbo flange(no gaskets same reason) but make sure you don`t tighten it down. It helped me to start the bottom bolt first and then start bolting each side. The tricky part is bolting the wastegate to the manifold and the downpipe. The wastegate has a crush washer that needs to be put in place and bolted to the manifold. The other side of the wastegate needs to be bolted to the downpipe. This is a tight fitting make sure you only turn the bolts a few times until all 4 bolts have been started. Now you can tighten the downpipe and next the wastegate. Connect a hose from the wastegate side barb to the turbo side barb. Connect the return line to the oil pan.
9. Remove the front bumper to get access to install the intercooler. Place the intercooler under the aframe and drill hole on each side. It should be a snug fit. Make sure to put the clamps on before you slide the hose on at each connection and don`t tighten any of the clamps until you have everything connected. It helped me to put some WD40 on the inside of the hoses to help slip them on because it is a tight fitting. Next connect the turbo side IC pipe to the turbo remember in step 5 that you loosened the turbo this allows you to adjust to the IC piping.. Connect the 2 inch to 2 1/4 hose to the turbo housing. The 2 inch hose connects to the turbo the 2 1/4 hose connects to the IC piping. Next connect the 2 1/4 hose to the next IC piping to the IC. It should be a tight fit and not loose.
The other side will require you to drill a 2 ½ hole ( I suggest a 3 inch hole allow for IC piping to move around.) A test fitting on this side so do not tighten clamps down until the hole is cut. Next connect the 3 to 2 1/4 hose to the throttle body(3 inch to the throttle body). Connect the IC piping to the throttle body. All we are trying to do now is to see where we need to cut the hole. Next connect the 2 1/4 hose to the IC and connect the IC piping. This should give you an idea of where to cut the hole. Cut the hole and retest before clamping down. Once all the pipes are connect tighten down all the clamps.
Once you have connected all the IC piping you need to decide where to install the BOV. The BOV kit comes with a connector that has to be welded on the IC piping. I placed mine on the hot side so that if I want I can recirculate the BOV. Use a sharpie and mark the spot you want to weld the connector. Once the connector is welded you can reinstall and tighten all the IC piping. The BOV connects by simply pushing it on and using the allen wrench that is supplied with the kit to tighten it down.
10. Install the breather to the Maf that came with the kit. It has 4 bolts and a gasket. You will need a 2 ½ inch custom mandrel bend pipe to connect to the turbo. Next connect the 3 inch hose to 2 ½ hose to the turbo. Connect the custom mandrel bend pipe to the MAF and breather to the Inlet pipe and connect the inlet pipe to the turbo.
11. Install the FMU on the shock tower next to the fuel filter. I would recommend a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to go on the same line as the fuel filter(Pressure side). This will tell you if your fuel pressure is at around 35psi and if the FMU is putting more pressure at boost. You can get a mechanical gauge for less then 20bucks and the fitting for around 10bucks. You can only get a 3/8 fitting go ahead and get that and use 5/16 hose to connect to your existing fuel setup.
12. Locate vacuum source. I used the brake booster as my vacuum source. Only problem with using that if your hose leaks or comes loose you will have a hard time stopping. Another source would be the Fuel pressure regulator. What ever source you use you need to connect the FMU, BOV and the boost gauge.
13. Connect the oil pressure T where the oil sending unit was located. Connect the turbo oil pressure line to the side of the T and then connect the oil sending unit to the end of the T. During this procedure I had to remove the alternator and a bracket that had 3 bolts to allow me to tighten the oil pressure T connector.
14. Install oil and oil filter.
15. Turn the car over remember to leave the fuse for the fuel pump disconnected. This was done in step 3. Continue to turn the car over until the oil warning light goes off. This could take a few minutes. Now install the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car up. Let the car warm up and check for any loose connections and oil leaks. Test drive car with out boosting and then tighten the manifold bolts again.
16. At this point you are ready to test the turbo. Slowly push the accelerator until you see the boost gauge rise in boost if the car stumbles or misfires let off the accelerator. Something is wrong and needs to be corrected. I would recommend taking the car to a Dyno shop to help you with tunning. The average cost is 60 bucks for 3 runs.
This document is intended to be used as a guide to help you with the installation of your BD kit. The Author takes no responsibilities for errors or wrong information.
Definitions IC Intercooler IC piping Intercooler piping BOV Blow off valve FMU Fuel management upgrade MAF Mass Air Flow sensor FPR Fuel pressure regulator Hot side The piping connected from the turbo to the intercooler Cold side The piping connected from the intercooler to the throttle body BSPT British standard pipe thread (Oil sending unit) NPT National pipe thread (United States standard)
Things that you can do before your kit arrives and still be able to drive your car. Make sure your car is set at stock timing for StageI with FMU or StageII with the Enthalpy ECU upgrade. If you plan on using anything else the standard rule is retard base timing .5 per psi above 8 psi. The gap on the spark plugs need to be change from factory 45 gap to 32 gap. If your project is going to take longer then a weekend to install you may want to have your battery recharged the day before you try to start the car. You can get this done for free at AutoZone by telling them you need to charge and test your battery.
If this is your first turbo project I would highly recommend going the FMU and Walbro fuel pump route. It is plug and play. Remember that the more you change things the more chances of things going wrong and the harder it is to trouble shoot what the problem is. Plus you don`t have to change your injectors, mess with wiring or programming. The FMU adds more fuel pressure for every psi. This works well up to 10 psi boost. Later if you want to upgrade to the Stage II, all you have to do is remove the FMU and sell it on the internet. The Walbro fuel pump will handle the fuel delivery all the way through StageIII.
1. Compression test. Need to do a compression test now to make sure everything is within standards. It will also help you troubleshoot knowing what your compression now will take the guess work out later. The compression gauge( $40 at Autozone) will come with instructions on how to do this properly. Make sure you have a fully charged battery and a good starter(300rpm). The standard compression on all cylinders is 180. The lowest compression that you should read is 151. There should be no more then 14 difference between cylinders. If your readings are close to 151 you might want to consider rebuilding your motor first.
2. Relocate the battery in the trunk. This needs to be done in order to have room for the IC piping. I went to the stereo shop and got a distribution block to connect all the power cables to in the front of the car and a positive distribution block for the trunk. I went to Autozone and got a plastic battery tray and battery hold down kit. Remove the old battery tray. The tray is welded to different parts of the body. I used an air hammer to remove it.
3. Remove the AIV and Pair valve. This needs to be done to allow enough room to install the turbo kit.
4. Weld the return bung Remove the oil pan and weld the return plug with plug installed. This will save you a lot of time when you get ready to install the Stage1 kit. It will also give you some time to test for any oil leaks before you install your kit.
5. Install Walbro fuel pump The fuel pump is located in the trunk on the passenger side. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump and remove the fuel cap. The fuse is located on the passenger side next to the water overflow tank. Start the car and let it run until it quits. This will remove the fuel pressure from the fuel line. Remove the cover and disconnect the wire. Unbolt the fuel pump assembly and disconnect the 2 fuel lines. The directions for replacing the pump are included in the kit. This would also be a good time to install the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge goes between the fuel filter and the fuel rail.
Parts needed to be purchased to install Stage1 kit▸ Oil and oil filter. The kit requires you to remove the oil pan and weld a return bung in the oil pan.▸ Spark plugs NGK gapped at 32.▸ Walbro 255 fuel pump($99 at BD). ▸ Mechanical fuel pressure gauge($12 local) and 1/8 NPT T 3/8 barb($12 local). This gauge would go after the fuel filter(Pressure side). This will help when you dyno your car and tell you if your FPR and FMU is working properly.▸ Boost gauge($50 at BD). You will also have to determine where to place the gauge. I decided on the piller pod($40 at BD). You will need to get an npt 1/4 adapter with a barb nozzle($3 local) on the other end to connect to the vacuum line. Home Depot is your friend here.▸ Autozone felpro gasket set($10) for the exhaust manifold. ▸ Teflon tape for all the NPT fittings. ▸ Gasket sealer for the oil pan. ▸ WD40 and carb cleaner(Stuff you should have). ▸ Hose clamps 8 *2.5, 6 *3/8, 1 *3, 1 *3.5 . ▸ Vacuum line T`s. ▸ 1 2.5 inch mandrel bend U pipe to connect to the stock MAF and Turbo inlet.▸ 3 to a 2.5 reducer coupler and one 6 inch long 2.5 inch coupler. ▸ 14 2.5inch hose clamps▸ 2 3.5inch hose clamps▸ About 2feet of 5/16 Fuel injection hose.▸ Vacuum lines I went to the store several times to get everything I needed. Careful planning is needed to know how much of what you are going to need. Another words you need to know where everything is going to be located and what size hose will connect to each actuator device(FMU, wastgate, BOV and boost gauge).▸ PCV air filter and plastic pipe to connect to the existing hose. The plastic pipe can be purchased at Home Depot.▸ Oil strainer pickup gasket. You will need this because you will have to remove the oil strainer to remove the oil pan. There are 2 different gaskets for the S13 make sure you order the correct one. I ordered the wrong one and had to make mine from a gasket sheet.
Optional ▸ Remove Mechanical Fan and Shroud This step would be optional but I would recommend it. Removing the fan shroud and mechanical fan. This will give you a lot of extra room and make it easier to work on the engine. Only draw back is that you will need a electric fan, NISMO thermostat and radiator cap to prevent overheating. If you plan on doing this you will need to get at least 12 washers. The washers will be needed to go between the pulley and lock nut. You will notice 4 small vacuum lines going across the fan shroud. 2 go to the pair valve and 2 go to the fuel canister( I removed my fuel canister). All 4 need to be cut and plugged up. There is also a large hose that is connected to the fan shroud and air intake that will not be needed.
Installing Stage 1 kit
1. Tools required 2 jack stands 1 floor jack 1 Breaker bar Several different extensions Metric sockets 3/8 Deep well 14mm,12mm. Metric sockets 3/8 standard 8mm,10mm,12mm and 14mm Metric socket 1/4 standard 10mm Metric socket ½ Impact 14mm and Impact extension Wrenches 10mm,12mm and 14mm Weld bung on the oil pan Weld a connector on the IC piping for the BOV WD40 Oil wrench Oil container Compression gauge Needle nose pliers Channel locks Tool to cut 3 inch hole Wire cutters Mechanic gloves (You will thank me later) Carb Cleaner ( I like this better then engine cleaner) Lots of shop towels 2. Find a location that you can jack your front end up and leave for several days. You want to jack the front end up at least 2 feet to allow you room to get under the car and remove the oil pan, exhaust system and front bumper.
3. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump. It is located on the passenger side next to the water overflow tank. Start the car and let it run until it quits. This will remove the fuel pressure from the fuel line.
4. Disconnect the battery ground cable, drain oil pan and remove the oil filter and oil sending unit.
5. Remove the nut that is holding the motor mount from the bottom on both sides. Remove the 2 bolts on each side that is holding the front sway bar to the frame. This will allow you to remove the oil pan towards the front of the car. Place the jack under the transmission and jack it up enough were you can remove the oil pan (It does not take much).After taking off all the bolts holding the pan use a screw driver(be careful not to bend the pan) to pry the pan from the block. Once the pan is broken loose and kind of hanging there, you will want to unbolt the pickup tube(3 bolts) to make it easier to remove the oil pan. After removing the pan weld the return bung on with the center of the bung on the drivers side of the pan exactly 6" back from the front body of the pan (not the flange) and 7/8" from the underside of the top rail. You will find it to be pretty close to the spot weld that holds the windage tray in place. This will place the return between the front of the motor mount and the back of the AC compressor.
6. Removing the exhaust system. Remove 3 bolts holding the exhaust system to the exhaust manifold. Remove 2 bolts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust system. Once this is done it will allow you to remove a 2 foot section of the exhaust system. Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold. Remove the EGR metal tube (3/4 inch tube) from the back of the exhaust manifold. You will need to block off this tube this will not be needed. Remove the bolt holding the oil dipstick and move out of the way. Remove the heat shield (6 bolts).Now you can remove the exhaust manifold(8 nuts).
7. Remove the entire air box assembly. You should notice a nice cut 2 ½ hole this is where the IC piping will route through.. The MAF is connected to the air intake disconnect the wire and Remove the air intake connected to the throttle body.
8. Install the new BD manifold and new exhaust gaskets tighten down to specs. Before bolting the turbo to the manifold loosen the bolts on the cold side of the turbo. Connect the oil return line to the oil pan bung. Next connect the oil return line to the turbo. Bolt the turbo to the manifold( there are no gaskets for this because it is a machined surface.) Next bolt the downpipe to the turbo flange(no gaskets same reason) but make sure you don`t tighten it down. It helped me to start the bottom bolt first and then start bolting each side. The tricky part is bolting the wastegate to the manifold and the downpipe. The wastegate has a crush washer that needs to be put in place and bolted to the manifold. The other side of the wastegate needs to be bolted to the downpipe. This is a tight fitting make sure you only turn the bolts a few times until all 4 bolts have been started. Now you can tighten the downpipe and next the wastegate. Connect a hose from the wastegate side barb to the turbo side barb. Connect the return line to the oil pan.
9. Remove the front bumper to get access to install the intercooler. Place the intercooler under the aframe and drill hole on each side. It should be a snug fit. Make sure to put the clamps on before you slide the hose on at each connection and don`t tighten any of the clamps until you have everything connected. It helped me to put some WD40 on the inside of the hoses to help slip them on because it is a tight fitting. Next connect the turbo side IC pipe to the turbo remember in step 5 that you loosened the turbo this allows you to adjust to the IC piping.. Connect the 2 inch to 2 1/4 hose to the turbo housing. The 2 inch hose connects to the turbo the 2 1/4 hose connects to the IC piping. Next connect the 2 1/4 hose to the next IC piping to the IC. It should be a tight fit and not loose.
The other side will require you to drill a 2 ½ hole ( I suggest a 3 inch hole allow for IC piping to move around.) A test fitting on this side so do not tighten clamps down until the hole is cut. Next connect the 3 to 2 1/4 hose to the throttle body(3 inch to the throttle body). Connect the IC piping to the throttle body. All we are trying to do now is to see where we need to cut the hole. Next connect the 2 1/4 hose to the IC and connect the IC piping. This should give you an idea of where to cut the hole. Cut the hole and retest before clamping down. Once all the pipes are connect tighten down all the clamps.
Once you have connected all the IC piping you need to decide where to install the BOV. The BOV kit comes with a connector that has to be welded on the IC piping. I placed mine on the hot side so that if I want I can recirculate the BOV. Use a sharpie and mark the spot you want to weld the connector. Once the connector is welded you can reinstall and tighten all the IC piping. The BOV connects by simply pushing it on and using the allen wrench that is supplied with the kit to tighten it down.
10. Install the breather to the Maf that came with the kit. It has 4 bolts and a gasket. You will need a 2 ½ inch custom mandrel bend pipe to connect to the turbo. Next connect the 3 inch hose to 2 ½ hose to the turbo. Connect the custom mandrel bend pipe to the MAF and breather to the Inlet pipe and connect the inlet pipe to the turbo.
11. Install the FMU on the shock tower next to the fuel filter. I would recommend a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to go on the same line as the fuel filter(Pressure side). This will tell you if your fuel pressure is at around 35psi and if the FMU is putting more pressure at boost. You can get a mechanical gauge for less then 20bucks and the fitting for around 10bucks. You can only get a 3/8 fitting go ahead and get that and use 5/16 hose to connect to your existing fuel setup.
12. Locate vacuum source. I used the brake booster as my vacuum source. Only problem with using that if your hose leaks or comes loose you will have a hard time stopping. Another source would be the Fuel pressure regulator. What ever source you use you need to connect the FMU, BOV and the boost gauge.
13. Connect the oil pressure T where the oil sending unit was located. Connect the turbo oil pressure line to the side of the T and then connect the oil sending unit to the end of the T. During this procedure I had to remove the alternator and a bracket that had 3 bolts to allow me to tighten the oil pressure T connector.
14. Install oil and oil filter.
15. Turn the car over remember to leave the fuse for the fuel pump disconnected. This was done in step 3. Continue to turn the car over until the oil warning light goes off. This could take a few minutes. Now install the fuse for the fuel pump and start the car up. Let the car warm up and check for any loose connections and oil leaks. Test drive car with out boosting and then tighten the manifold bolts again.
16. At this point you are ready to test the turbo. Slowly push the accelerator until you see the boost gauge rise in boost if the car stumbles or misfires let off the accelerator. Something is wrong and needs to be corrected. I would recommend taking the car to a Dyno shop to help you with tunning. The average cost is 60 bucks for 3 runs.
This document is intended to be used as a guide to help you with the installation of your BD kit. The Author takes no responsibilities for errors or wrong information.
Definitions IC Intercooler IC piping Intercooler piping BOV Blow off valve FMU Fuel management upgrade MAF Mass Air Flow sensor FPR Fuel pressure regulator Hot side The piping connected from the turbo to the intercooler Cold side The piping connected from the intercooler to the throttle body BSPT British standard pipe thread (Oil sending unit) NPT National pipe thread (United States standard)
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
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- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
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Re: S13 Boost Designs owners... (rseabrooke)
Hmm doesn`t look to bad. Ok everybody this document does get changed so I guess when you see edit and date changes you know I made some changes to it.
I have a another document that has pictures and info typed with it. I guess I will have to do it the hard way, unless somebody has got some ideas on how to post with pictures. I will change the document based on my inputs from everbody. So feel free to give me your opinions or if I made any technical errors. I am sorry I didn`t try this earlier. I really didn`t think it would work.
I have a another document that has pictures and info typed with it. I guess I will have to do it the hard way, unless somebody has got some ideas on how to post with pictures. I will change the document based on my inputs from everbody. So feel free to give me your opinions or if I made any technical errors. I am sorry I didn`t try this earlier. I really didn`t think it would work.
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hannibal
- Posts: 9680
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2002 2:38 am
- Car: Red Line to Glenmont
- Location: Washington DC
Re: (rseabrooke)
Youre the man!
I was about to ask this before I saw your last post. Do you have a complete list of what comes in the kit? I noticed you had to buy hose clamps, vacuum T's, make your own intake, etc. None of these were included??
I asked BD for a list, but they never sent me anything thing.
I was about to ask this before I saw your last post. Do you have a complete list of what comes in the kit? I noticed you had to buy hose clamps, vacuum T's, make your own intake, etc. None of these were included??
I asked BD for a list, but they never sent me anything thing.
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: (IWannaS15)
This was copied from his web site-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Complete Stage 1 KitPrice-$1999.00 (Stage 1 Kit-Basic Kit)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- T3/T4 .48 AR Turbine .50 AR Compressor 50 or 57 Trim Stage III Wheel , turbonetics turbine housingFlow bench designed and tested tubular stainless steel manifold3" flowbench tested downpipe w/ o2 sensor bung installed38mm External Wastegate 2.25" Stainless Steel Intercooler Charge Pipes (Short Routed)Custom built intercooler w/ extruded Garrett Core 24" X 6" x 2.75"25mm Recirculating Blow off Valve or 35mm AtmosphericStainless Oil Feed, Return, fittings and weld-on bung for oil panAir Intake Filter w/ Maf AdapterAll Silicone BootsAdd $100 for ceramic coating of manifold/downpipe-color choice of customer This is basically the package you get. The parts I listed in earlier thread will list everything you will need to install the kit to the best of my knowledge. There may be a small part I left off but that is the bulk of it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- T3/T4 .48 AR Turbine .50 AR Compressor 50 or 57 Trim Stage III Wheel , turbonetics turbine housingFlow bench designed and tested tubular stainless steel manifold3" flowbench tested downpipe w/ o2 sensor bung installed38mm External Wastegate 2.25" Stainless Steel Intercooler Charge Pipes (Short Routed)Custom built intercooler w/ extruded Garrett Core 24" X 6" x 2.75"25mm Recirculating Blow off Valve or 35mm AtmosphericStainless Oil Feed, Return, fittings and weld-on bung for oil panAir Intake Filter w/ Maf AdapterAll Silicone BootsAdd $100 for ceramic coating of manifold/downpipe-color choice of customer This is basically the package you get. The parts I listed in earlier thread will list everything you will need to install the kit to the best of my knowledge. There may be a small part I left off but that is the bulk of it.
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hannibal
- Posts: 9680
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2002 2:38 am
- Car: Red Line to Glenmont
- Location: Washington DC
Re: (rseabrooke)
No trying to flame BD, but how can you include IC, piping, and hoses, but leave out the clamps?? That doesnt make since to me.
I think Ive made up my mind. Thanks again Seabrooke...
I think Ive made up my mind. Thanks again Seabrooke...
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
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Re: (IWannaS15)
I think his reasoning behind it is because there are 2 different clamps you can buy. One is the Tbolt clamp(expensive) and the other is the regular hose clamp.
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ILikeMy240sx
- Posts: 5358
- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
- Car: SR Power
hey rseabrooke if you want me to host pictures I can host them for you at my personal web-page.. I think you can also use NICO pic hosting server. Another alternative would be to convert doc files into PDF.
Contact me asap if you would like me to host pics. I would be more than happy to do it for you.
Contact me asap if you would like me to host pics. I would be more than happy to do it for you.
Wow, my threads alive
Thanks for all the info. Its better to just post over here than to email. People might be asking the same questions, if they all email you it'll be annoying. Atleast if you post it here, people can read through it and if it still doesnt answer their question, they can just ask or post here.
My longest post evar
Thanks for all the info. Its better to just post over here than to email. People might be asking the same questions, if they all email you it'll be annoying. Atleast if you post it here, people can read through it and if it still doesnt answer their question, they can just ask or post here.
My longest post evar
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
- Contact:
Re: (ILikeMy240sx)
My doc is in PDF format so how do I post a PDF???
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fallen180sx
- Posts: 680
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- Car: 90 Sil80
- Contact:
Re: S13 Boost Designs owners... (BomexS13)
bomexs13, do you have any site with pics of yur car? yur car is hot man..