s13 battery relocate, power problem. Power stays on after key is out.

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dogg4217
Posts: 111
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:53 am

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I have a 93 s13 se. I just finished relocating the battery due to my sr20 swap and boost pipes being in the way.

I followed this write uphttp://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=212386

I turn the key to accessory and my power windows go down, my lights work, my ebrake and seatbelt indicator lights come on. Seems like it's working right. Well I turn the key off and pull the key out and the power is still on. I can do all the above while the key is out of the ignition. I mean it's cool and all to power my windows up and down but I know this isn't right.

So to cancel out problems, I disconnect my SR harness from the chassis harness. I disconnect the SR harness to the dash harness, so basically the SR harness is not hooked up anywhere to the other chassis harnesses. Power to the windows and lights is still there. At the stock battery location the power cable has two plugs connected to it. I disconnect these plugs and the power to the windows and lights goes off. Refer to the last pic in the link. THats the two plugs I am talking about.

What is causing my power to stay on after I take the key out?


foress_89
Posts: 31
Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 7:22 am
Car: '93 240sx

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I have a similar problem altough my car is pretty much stock, the transmission have been swapped that's about it. I would have to say, try another ignition switch. That's what I'll try with mine when I fix it.

All electrical works fine in mine too, but when I turn the key off and remove it, that car still runs. But nothing works. (wipers, windows, heat etc). Then I open the lights, the car suddenly stops. I turn the lights off, the car is off like it should... Weird isn't it?

dogg4217
Posts: 111
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:53 am

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foress_89 wrote:I have a similar problem altough my car is pretty much stock, the transmission have been swapped that's about it. I would have to say, try another ignition switch. That's what I'll try with mine when I fix it.

All electrical works fine in mine too, but when I turn the key off and remove it, that car still runs. But nothing works. (wipers, windows, heat etc). Then I open the lights, the car suddenly stops. I turn the lights off, the car is off like it should... Weird isn't it?
Yeah that is weird.

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SullivanRacing06
Posts: 1974
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 8:45 am
Car: r32 gtst, 06 350z, r32 gtr, rs4 steaga, 04 350z, f350/6bt
Location: Gainesville

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again weird, a properly relocated batt shouldnt have any current draw!


dogg4217
Posts: 111
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:53 am

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SullivanRacing06 wrote:again weird, a properly relocated batt shouldnt have any current draw!
I know it's not hard to relocate a battery. All you really do is hook the power cable to the cable in the stock location and thats it.

The car fires up with no problem but then I can turn the car off. With the key out of the ignition the car is still running. I have to disconnect the CAS for the car to shut off.

I am stomped. I am basically just going to start pulling the wiring out and checking everything.

I tried another ignition switch and still the same problem.

The car has been sitting since 2001 so maybe wires are chewed up.

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Rin5
Posts: 344
Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:11 am
Car: 1990 240sx CA18DET, 1990 240sx SE fully auto (Daily)

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the funny thing about this is i did soooo much more and i have the same problem that i havent been able to check out cuz im very busy but its workin fine...

when i did my battery reloc. EVERYTHING was fine.but then silly me relocated the fusebox too...i think i mixed 2 wires cuz WTF nissan thanks for putting 2 purple wires with same AWG. one went to fuse one went to relay >_< i think i switched it cuz my car only turns off when i take out the FUEL PUMP fuse...that and i keep hearing one of the relays click alot

could you possibly show pics of your work?

dogg4217
Posts: 111
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:53 am

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Rin5 wrote:the funny thing about this is i did soooo much more and i have the same problem that i havent been able to check out cuz im very busy but its workin fine...

when i did my battery reloc. EVERYTHING was fine.but then silly me relocated the fusebox too...i think i mixed 2 wires cuz WTF nissan thanks for putting 2 purple wires with same AWG. one went to fuse one went to relay >_< i think i switched it cuz my car only turns off when i take out the FUEL PUMP fuse...that and i keep hearing one of the relays click alot

could you possibly show pics of your work?
I can try to get pics. I'm not sure its the battery relocation causing the problem. I ran a 2gauge battery cable from the stock location to the trunk. I connected the front together with big spade connectors and a bolt through the middle and then insulation around it. Then in the back I ran a 100amp fuse about 8inches from the battery.

The car starts up fine, everything charges fine no dimming of the lights.

I think my problem is in the wiring of the car. The car has sat since 2001 and there were nuts in the engine bay from a mouse. I swapped in my sr20 this past month and all the engine bay wires seemed fine. I am going to pull the dash out to see if something maybe wrong in the wiring. Basically going to check all of the wiring in the entire car.

I have a complete wiring harness from front to back of a car I stripped before this car so if I need to, I can reference that or use the harnesses.

If I take the SR harness completely out and lay it on the floor, when I turn the car to ON and then back off the power still stays on. I have to ground out the black/white wire on the ignition key harness for the power to cut off. I can here relays clicking to for the car to turn off and then the power goes off.

When the car is running, it's in safe mode and won't rev past 2500rpm and runs really rich, but from reading most say it's a MAF problem. So I have to check that out also.

Edit: But to understand how I did my battery relocation, I did exactly how the write up did in the link I provided above in my OP. I mean exactly except I used 2gauge battery cable from the NAPA store. I even have my ground in the same spot.

I tried removing anything out of the equation that would be causing my problem, and I know I followed this write up perfect.

dogg4217
Posts: 111
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:53 am

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I ended up ordering a new SR harness and installing the harness. I had the same problem. The car wouldn't shut off after taking the key out.

I had to stop the motor by pulling the CAS plug off.

So I thought it maybe my lower harness so I pulled that out and checked all the wiring.

I found out after feeling around that there is a plug for the alternator that wasn't plugged in (my first sr swap mistake). Would this connector not being connected to the alt. be causing the problem?

When wiring my SR harness I followed the guide off of frsports.com. The cars starts up with no problems, and runs fine (although it won't rev past 2500rpm which I think is caused by my maf).

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SullivanRacing06
Posts: 1974
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 8:45 am
Car: r32 gtst, 06 350z, r32 gtr, rs4 steaga, 04 350z, f350/6bt
Location: Gainesville

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about the lower harness keeping the car runing idk, not sure thats the problem, how about a master kill switch lol? good theft deturant

deeznutz98
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:02 am
Car: 90 300ZX NA

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did you ever find out why it would not shut off. My Z32 is doing the same thing and I am not sure what it is. It starts fine and runs fine but when I turn the key off and pull it out the car stays running


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