does the firestone you go to adjust to your specs (if you have adjustable suspension) or just factory specs?positron_ wrote:No performance shops where I live so I have to use the Firestones and what not.
Mind posting those specs up? My GRM stockpile is spotty from loan outs and on/off again membership :pCone Junky wrote:I imagine it is up to the individual shop, but I don't see why they wouldn't be willing to put in your own specs. But you should supply them with the specs you want. That way they can adjust the specs in the machine before the alignment.
I do my own alignments, but I used jrhoades specs from his STS 240 that were published in GRM. I can't get the front camber to his specs without camber plates, but his toes specs have turned the car into a competitive handler
Can you post those specs? as i dont know what GRM is and im really curious to experiment with my alignment till i find something that works well with my differential (besides a new diff), which I think is stock as it sucks the b*tt h*le. I ended up mis-aligning my rack at the knuckle that connects to the column ( ) so ill prolly be taking it back to firestone once i get under my car again to fix it.Cone Junky wrote:I imagine it is up to the individual shop, but I don't see why they wouldn't be willing to put in your own specs. But you should supply them with the specs you want. That way they can adjust the specs in the machine before the alignment.
I do my own alignments, but I used jrhoades specs from his STS 240 that were published in GRM. I can't get the front camber to his specs without camber plates, but his toes specs have turned the car into a competitive handler
Grassroots Motorsports. Best auto magazine out there... IMO of course.S133P3R wrote:
Can you post those specs? as i dont know what GRM is and im really curious to experiment with my alignment till i find something that works well with my differential (besides a new diff), which I think is stock as it sucks the b*tt h*le. I ended up mis-aligning my rack at the knuckle that connects to the column ( ) so ill prolly be taking it back to firestone once i get under my car again to fix it.
also, what kind of differential do you have with those specs?.... I was thinking of getting a J30 LSD so i can get used to the difference before i jump into a 1.5way or something.
ya, i installed my tension rods myself and the damn settings were tweaked. on factory specs it feels good but I feel the stock differntial is killing me, what do you have?Cone Junky wrote:The specs are listed in that thread. Also, just find the GRM with the blue Miata on the front. Instead of keeping it with all my other back issues, that issue is kept in my toolbox with all my manuals
I think his toe settings make most of the difference. My first 2 auto-xs felt like drift sessions until I dialed in tho9se specs.
did you add ABS to you rear brakes or is the aluminum shaft just to compensate for the J30 ABS? what is the difference between non-ABS and ABS driveshafts, is the ABS shorter (i think thats what your saying)?Cone Junky wrote:I did have the stock non-ABS driveshaft when I installed it, so it was a little tight. But I shortly upgraded to a one piece aluminum in an ABS friendly length.
If you're going down south to the SD yards, make sure you hit both sets of yards. I would even hit the oceanside eco on the way too.
I dont have and wasnt planning on buying megan tie rods, did you mean megan tension rods? Ill try searching for someone that does that type of alignment work also, SD isnt really too far either.S133P3R wrote:I have a hatch S13 with the following suspension upgrades: -megan racing tension rods -megan raging street coilovers -tein inner & outter tie rods on a rebuilt rack (thanks s13erm) -energy steering rack bushings
Yes, the ABS driveshaft is a litle shorter to make up for the longer snout on the diff. The non-ABS shaft works, but the yoke no longer has any freeplay, which can cause some binding.S133P3R wrote:
did you add ABS to you rear brakes or is the aluminum shaft just to compensate for the J30 ABS? what is the difference between non-ABS and ABS driveshafts, is the ABS shorter (i think thats what your saying)?
we skipped right passed the O-Side yard but next time ill hit it up for sure. last time i was down there we went straight to "recycling way" cuz my buddy, was looking for a volvo part, so we figured wed find it there... but no luck, cuz the volvo specialist was closed. Sucked for my friend but he was a great helper with my parts. I was really happy with my $35 RLCA (~$100 new) and my $65 J30 brakes! It pays to RECYCLE!
mine is completely smog-able. i'm in the middle of the hassle of the wiring harness.S133P3R wrote:curious.... my buddy is on my a$$ about convincing me to not do a SR or RB motor swap and wont shut up about the VQ and LS swaps. is yours smogable? where did you get your swap done? and what was the price like? and how do you like it?
http://www.lustimotors.comS133P3R wrote:ya, im pretty sure it was RC, they are closed on weekends. my buddy ended up getting the part mailed and it got here the next day i think, so that problem was resolved and the car runs now. I was amped to see a whole section of nissans and infinitys in SD, had no problem getting my brakes. would have grabbed Q45s but i forgot my lug wrench so i settled for J30s that had the wheels of already, still rebuilding those.
whats your shop called and what kind of work do you guys do? wouldnt mind giving you some business if i know someone in need.