?'s going on peoples

[turk182]

i seem 2 have an overheating problem with my 45, within the last 2 weeks i've replaced the Radiator, Water pump, thermostat & thermostat housing & also the filler cap on the radiator & the car still tends to overheat or get really hot really quick. could someone please gimme some insight on ? the problem might be

[maxnix]

OEM parts or Chinese NAPA crap?

[nismo silvia]

I would do a head gasket test

[oldmako]

OEM parts or Chinese NAPA crap?

Are you on Joe's payroll?

Follow Nismos advice. Even OEM gear cannot cool an engine with a bad gasket.

[Q45denver]

A/C on in AZ heat could mean condensor or radiator fan is shot.

[Q45tech]

Generally aftermarket rads are less efficient than oem primarily a savings in fins per inch or thichness of fins.................to reduce shipping and production cost.

Even new oem maybe decontented after 15 years

But 5-10% less efficient may be meaningless except in really hot areas.

The rubber air surrond to stop feedback around rad is a critical item as is the air blockage from old condenser.

The evaporator fan maybe dead or worn so that the rpms have fallen after 7 years same with viscous drive on main fan.

Obviously you haven't changed everything.

Old Q will overheat in drive [and idle] EVENTUALLY at slow speeds if every single item is not as brand new.

The question is how fast will the over heat occur?

I have data logged ecu coolant temp vs time vs ambient and can achieve 13 minutes in drive at 103F ambient AC ON sitting still in shade foot on brake Before the coolant exceeds 199F.

Some poorly maintained cruise at 199F at a lower ambient and can hit 220F or worse in the above test.

The point is how long do you sit in traffic in Drive stopped with AC on? As a short term fix put it in NEUTRAL while stopped...........rpms go up and the transmission load disappears.

The problem is once you exceed 195F the ecu starts removing ignition advance which has the unintended effect of increasing heat output to coolant which make the matters eventually worse after about 3 degrees of retard [~~205-210F] the temperature rise time escalates.

I saw this problem back in 1998 and replaced the oem rad witha custom heavy all thicker higher volume aluminum $700 rad.

Rigorous before after testing showed this dropped temp by 4F and lengthen the heat time by almost double from 7 to 13 minutes.

Yahoo problem solved.

A cheap trick is to run 20-25% AF in Summer and 50% in Winter...........this alone is worth 2-3 minutes of improvement.

You must provide accurate coolant temp data before we can help you.

Run 15 minutes at 60 mph AC on then pull off and graph coolant vs time once you stop.

[Q45tech]

Phoenix has daily peaked at 100-115F everyday for past 2 weeks so the road air would be at leat 5-12F hotter depending on road speed.Since AC adds 25-30F to incoming rad air.

157F air flowing into rad might be nearly impossible to cool engine stalled traffic but it should function ok at 55 MPH if everything is as brand new.

[maxnix]

Are you on Joe's payroll?

No, just looking out for a fellow board member as those with a little knowledge of the previous posts here know that 3rd party crapola like improper radiator caps have sabotaged working Q45.

It's all in the previous posts if you ever care to learn.

[maxnix]

I would do a head gasket test

I would suggest a cooling system pressure test first, if I understand teh problem, and I am not certain that I do as English is my only fluent language.

[qship96]

Fan clutch, if original is most likely worn and not locking up properly to increase fan speed to pull proper amount of air thru radiator

[maxnix]

Fan clutch, if original is most likely worn and not locking up properly to increase fan speed to pull proper amount of air thru radiator

Well, he did say he had 2 overheating problems, didn't he?