RUST!!!

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
Ryman
Posts: 121
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:34 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4

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So I've been doing some close examination of my QX4 today and realized that I have RUST ALL OVER!!! First thing I wanted to ask was is there any way to remove rust yourself? (I figure the answer is probably not) 2) How do you prevent rust? I want to try to rust proof the rest of my car so that it doesn't get any worse and 3) Did anyone pay to get rust removed? How did the shop do it and about how much did you pay? I don't want to get ripped off..... Don't have any pics of the rust but will try to take some... I have some under passenger side view mirror, by the hinges on the backseat driver side door and also by the weather stripping, and on the top of the tailgate I guess you would call it. Any answers to any of the questions would be great. Thanks


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Pwnin Obrien
Posts: 37
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 1:08 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder
Location: New Jersey

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Rust is a huge issue on the R50. The first places to rust are generally behind the side view mirror (as you already know) but another place highly prone to rust is under your fender flares. If you were to take your fender flares off and look under them then you probably won't be too happy. Unfortunately, with the QX4 flares being significantly larger than the Pathfinders it takes longer to diagnose horrible rust on the QX4 fenders. You can fix it yourself with a wire brush and some naval jelly (it's a rust removing substance); this will remove the rust but it won't stop rust from re-occuring and you have to paint the exposed metal surfaces within 24 hours to prevent further rusting. Another NICO member had serious rust issues and they were able to get work done for cheap (I think his username was Mikey something, he hasn't been on the forums in a long time).

For the best work you're going to want to take it to a professional body shop because rust repair can be really difficult. There really is no way to prevent rust from ever coming back unless you coat your entire car in bedliner. The only thing you can do is fix the rust-prone spots and hope they never rust again. I you suggest removing your fender flares (it's extremely simple, just some screws around the wheel arch and some plastic clips through the body) and assess any more damage.

Ubel Feuer
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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Hem, I think I have some experience here. As far as painted areas I can't help you, bu for the underside:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... re001a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... ure002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... re006b.jpg

If you like that it's very simple to apply and lasts well. The product is called POR 15, you'll have to order it as it's an industrial applicant for anything metal.

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Densetsu
Posts: 557
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:50 am
Car: 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Chinook
Prev: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder Chilkoot
Location: Edmonton, AB

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Uber... when did you do that? How's it holding up, any pics?

If it's holding up, I wouldn't mind doing that. How much did you have to use? Aerosol or applied with a brush?

Ryman
Posts: 121
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:34 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4

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I have the same question how is it holding up? And i looked at por 15's website and they say you don't have to remove the rust Did you remove your rust then apply it? or just slapped the paint on? It looks real good though

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GRNMACHINE
Posts: 634
Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 6:30 am
Car: 1999.5 Pathfinder SE 4x4

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x3!! More Info, looks great. Will look into this POR 15.

Ubel Feuer
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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It's holding up extremely well after going through a pretty bad winter in Iowa and one summer of 100+ degree heat. They put way too much salt and sand on the roads here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... 160039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... 160040.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... 160041.jpg

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Innovazn
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:55 pm
Car: Yellow 1998 Nissan R34 Skyline RB25DET 5 MT - Current

White 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe 3.5SR 6MT - Salvage (T-Boned at left turn)

White 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE - SOLD (blew the engine)
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada

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Ubel Feuer wrote:It's holding up extremely well after going through a pretty bad winter in Iowa and one summer of 100+ degree heat. They put way too much salt and sand on the roads here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... 160039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... 160040.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... 160041.jpg

how did you apply it? was it directly on rust with a brush? jacked the car up? etc etc? i ask because personally... i can fit under my truck with absolutely no problems... im a small guy

edit :: how much of the stuff did you buy to fully cover your under carriage

Ryman
Posts: 121
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:34 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4

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yeah i got the same question..... how much of the stuff did you use to cover the whole.... pretty interested in this stuff

Ubel Feuer
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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They sell it in 4 sizes, the three regular cans you see in paint stores and then you can also buy a barrel. I used about 3/4 of a quart, this stuff goes a long way. As for application I used a couple dollar brushes and a sponge for some hard to reach areas. I did not jack up my car, although if you can (preferably on a lift) it will result in much less back pain. You apply it on rust directly, however you need to sand off any chunks or flaking rust pieces before. After you sand you need to wash the underside very well, especially if you're going to cover the whole carriage including areas that aren't rusting - I used a power washer and some strong soap. Once it is bone dry go ahead and paint, only one coat is needed. You need to wear long clothing and a mask, if you get this on you it will be there for a month probably.

Ryman
Posts: 121
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:34 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4

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yeah thanks man i wasn't sure on how to apply and how much to pick up

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Innovazn
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:55 pm
Car: Yellow 1998 Nissan R34 Skyline RB25DET 5 MT - Current

White 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe 3.5SR 6MT - Salvage (T-Boned at left turn)

White 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE - SOLD (blew the engine)
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada

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Ubel Feuer wrote:They sell it in 4 sizes, the three regular cans you see in paint stores and then you can also buy a barrel. I used about 3/4 of a quart, this stuff goes a long way. As for application I used a couple dollar brushes and a sponge for some hard to reach areas. I did not jack up my car, although if you can (preferably on a lift) it will result in much less back pain. You apply it on rust directly, however you need to sand off any chunks or flaking rust pieces before. After you sand you need to wash the underside very well, especially if you're going to cover the whole carriage including areas that aren't rusting - I used a power washer and some strong soap. Once it is bone dry go ahead and paint, only one coat is needed. You need to wear long clothing and a mask, if you get this on you it will be there for a month probably.

so... you jsut bought the por 15 without the other stuff? the paint had no issues sticking? intresting.... i think im going to go ahead and go the full 10 yards to do it properly

Ubel Feuer
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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Well that marine wash is only for boats or metals subjected to sea water, don't use it on your car.

Ryman
Posts: 121
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:34 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti QX4

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i think he's also wondering about the prep stuff as well... or at least i am:) not the marine wash but the metal ready stuff or did you just apply the por 15 paint without prepping the metal?

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Innovazn
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:55 pm
Car: Yellow 1998 Nissan R34 Skyline RB25DET 5 MT - Current

White 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe 3.5SR 6MT - Salvage (T-Boned at left turn)

White 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE - SOLD (blew the engine)
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada

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Ubel Feuer wrote:Well that marine wash is only for boats or metals subjected to sea water, don't use it on your car.
yeah as ryman stated thats what i was referring to. Regardless of how crazy the POR 15 stuff is im still reluctant cuz my Auto body insticts is kicking me... always got yelled at by my instructor that bare metal NEEDS to be etched or youre going to run into trouble further down the road....

Ubel Feuer
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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Depending on how old your car is and how bad the undercarriage is there is probably substantial portions of the factory undercoat left, which is fairly textured. Part of the washing process is to clear out the dirt and whatnot that's collected in those grooves and rough patches so there is a place for the POR 15 to take hold.

I did also paint the spare tire rim as you saw in the first shots, and that has not held up well as that is perfectly smooth metal. Regardless of what you do you're going to have to do touch-up work probably every other year, depending on your climate.

If you want my opinion on the best way to do this, accelerate the rusting on the areas you want to paint somehow - this stuff will never come off rusted areas because of all the texturing. Short of that lightly scoring with metal sandpaper is the way to go and is what I did on some of the smoother areas.

You should also note that heavy offroading will cause the coating to break off sometimes, it does not state this anywhere in their literature but the mechanic that explained all this to me said it does.

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Innovazn
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:55 pm
Car: Yellow 1998 Nissan R34 Skyline RB25DET 5 MT - Current

White 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe 3.5SR 6MT - Salvage (T-Boned at left turn)

White 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE - SOLD (blew the engine)
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada

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Ubel Feuer wrote:Depending on how old your car is and how bad the undercarriage is there is probably substantial portions of the factory undercoat left, which is fairly textured. Part of the washing process is to clear out the dirt and whatnot that's collected in those grooves and rough patches so there is a place for the POR 15 to take hold.

I did also paint the spare tire rim as you saw in the first shots, and that has not held up well as that is perfectly smooth metal. Regardless of what you do you're going to have to do touch-up work probably every other year, depending on your climate.

If you want my opinion on the best way to do this, accelerate the rusting on the areas you want to paint somehow - this stuff will never come off rusted areas because of all the texturing. Short of that lightly scoring with metal sandpaper is the way to go and is what I did on some of the smoother areas.

You should also note that heavy offroading will cause the coating to break off sometimes, it does not state this anywhere in their literature but the mechanic that explained all this to me said it does.
i would imagine when you roll over a jagged boulder it would either tear the paint or the part off your car >.> id prefer the paint haha. anyways thats good info, im looking into this stuff and considering it. How long did it take you to apply all of it on your under carriage?

Ubel Feuer
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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I spent one day doing prep work, let it dry one day in my garage, two days (about 6 hours on the first and 2 on the second) painting, and then I let it dry one day in my garage - so five days for everything.

Then I took sexy pictures.

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Innovazn
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:55 pm
Car: Yellow 1998 Nissan R34 Skyline RB25DET 5 MT - Current

White 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe 3.5SR 6MT - Salvage (T-Boned at left turn)

White 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE - SOLD (blew the engine)
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada

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Ubel Feuer wrote:I spent one day doing prep work, let it dry one day in my garage, two days (about 6 hours on the first and 2 on the second) painting, and then I let it dry one day in my garage - so five days for everything.

Then I took sexy pictures.

thats a long time....

Ubel Feuer
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:40 pm
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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Like I said, if you can get it on a lift you could do the painting in a few hours, doing it on your back with about 2-3 inches above you is not the best way.

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Innovazn
Posts: 1186
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:55 pm
Car: Yellow 1998 Nissan R34 Skyline RB25DET 5 MT - Current

White 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe 3.5SR 6MT - Salvage (T-Boned at left turn)

White 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE - SOLD (blew the engine)
Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada

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Ubel Feuer wrote:Like I said, if you can get it on a lift you could do the painting in a few hours, doing it on your back with about 2-3 inches above you is not the best way.
but it creates a closer bond :)


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