Ubel Feuer wrote:It's holding up extremely well after going through a pretty bad winter in Iowa and one summer of 100+ degree heat. They put way too much salt and sand on the roads here.
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Ubel Feuer wrote:They sell it in 4 sizes, the three regular cans you see in paint stores and then you can also buy a barrel. I used about 3/4 of a quart, this stuff goes a long way. As for application I used a couple dollar brushes and a sponge for some hard to reach areas. I did not jack up my car, although if you can (preferably on a lift) it will result in much less back pain. You apply it on rust directly, however you need to sand off any chunks or flaking rust pieces before. After you sand you need to wash the underside very well, especially if you're going to cover the whole carriage including areas that aren't rusting - I used a power washer and some strong soap. Once it is bone dry go ahead and paint, only one coat is needed. You need to wear long clothing and a mask, if you get this on you it will be there for a month probably.
yeah as ryman stated thats what i was referring to. Regardless of how crazy the POR 15 stuff is im still reluctant cuz my Auto body insticts is kicking me... always got yelled at by my instructor that bare metal NEEDS to be etched or youre going to run into trouble further down the road....Ubel Feuer wrote:Well that marine wash is only for boats or metals subjected to sea water, don't use it on your car.
i would imagine when you roll over a jagged boulder it would either tear the paint or the part off your car >.> id prefer the paint haha. anyways thats good info, im looking into this stuff and considering it. How long did it take you to apply all of it on your under carriage?Ubel Feuer wrote:Depending on how old your car is and how bad the undercarriage is there is probably substantial portions of the factory undercoat left, which is fairly textured. Part of the washing process is to clear out the dirt and whatnot that's collected in those grooves and rough patches so there is a place for the POR 15 to take hold.
I did also paint the spare tire rim as you saw in the first shots, and that has not held up well as that is perfectly smooth metal. Regardless of what you do you're going to have to do touch-up work probably every other year, depending on your climate.
If you want my opinion on the best way to do this, accelerate the rusting on the areas you want to paint somehow - this stuff will never come off rusted areas because of all the texturing. Short of that lightly scoring with metal sandpaper is the way to go and is what I did on some of the smoother areas.
You should also note that heavy offroading will cause the coating to break off sometimes, it does not state this anywhere in their literature but the mechanic that explained all this to me said it does.
Ubel Feuer wrote:I spent one day doing prep work, let it dry one day in my garage, two days (about 6 hours on the first and 2 on the second) painting, and then I let it dry one day in my garage - so five days for everything.
Then I took sexy pictures.
but it creates a closer bondUbel Feuer wrote:Like I said, if you can get it on a lift you could do the painting in a few hours, doing it on your back with about 2-3 inches above you is not the best way.