Rust on Frame rail

Post by **Jah1mon** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:44 am

I know this is a popular topic among s13 owners. I have little experience with body work, so I need some advice.

I sanded down the undercoating and paint in the passenger side wheel well because of bubbling issues. I found rust developing in between the seams of the frame rail.

The metal is still intact, but it feels a little fatigued to the touch. I don't think I can get away with just using a rust stopper like POR-15. Will wielding and patching be in order?

I know some people have worst rust issues with there frame rails, but would this rust issue mean the car is scrap?

Post by **EpicNightMayor** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 4:46 am

Sorry. Your car is totaled. See insurance to collect 1,100 dollars.

Post by **Koshin** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:22 am

cancer....its a terrible terrible thing

Post by **sldewyz** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:48 am

Koshin wrote:cancer....its a terrible terrible thing

my car can haz cancer removed

Post by **snwbrdr435** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:31 am

I came in here expecting to see the normal fist sized holes in a frame rail but that isnt nearly as bad as i thought it was going to be.

Post by **Jah1mon** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:10 am

Well, I guess I was lucky to catch it early. But the only way I can ensure that it will not return is probably replacing the rail.

Post by **EpicNightMayor** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:23 am

Jah1mon wrote:Well, I guess I was lucky to catch it early. But the only way I can ensure that it will not return is probably replacing the rail.

I'm giving you an reply to your above post in puzzle form. You figure it out. WORNG. Cut & Weld brother.

Post by **PoorManQ45** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:55 pm

Cut and weld

Post by **nissangirl74** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:57 pm

snwbrdr435 wrote:I came in here expecting to see the normal fist sized holes in a frame rail but that isnt nearly as bad as i thought it was going to be.

you can fix that, no problem. Good luck!

Post by **robinsone** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:14 am

Not sure if this will help but I have the same problem, even worse on my 89, I found this site and almost started crying because its going to save my driver side frame rail...

http://www.xcessivemanufacturi...tep=4

Post by **Jah1mon** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:52 am

Thanks for the link.

If I'm reading correctly, is that just a cover for the frame rail?

I wonder if rust would still develop underneath the original rail if you just covered it with that one from Xcessive?

Post by **numbnuts240** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:55 am

well you would grind off any existing rust, treat it with por-somethingoranother, then slip that patch on, weld it, then put some undercoating on it.

Post by **Jesda** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:57 am

POR15 works well on light sheet metal rust but I can't imagine it being sufficient for a frame by itself.

Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:43 am

240SX's are two for a dollar. Not worth the effort at all. Buy clean shell, swap in the good stuff.

Post by **Jah1mon** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 2:25 am

charlieo wrote:240SX's are two for a dollar. Not worth the effort at all. Buy clean shell, swap in the good stuff.

I agree, but those clean shells are becoming harder to find. It took me several months just to locate this one, which is fairly clean other than some light rust spots on the underbody.

Eventually it will be become rather difficult to locate a 240sx which would require no rust repair. Especially in the Rust belt.

Post by **PapaSmurf2k3** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:02 am

That rust is childs play... can you poke a screwdriver through it? If not, grind it down to clean metal, weld a patch over if desired, and then undercoat it.

Post by **adrianfromthecastle** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:22 am

robinsone wrote:Not sure if this will help but I have the same problem, even worse on my 89, I found this site and almost started crying because its going to save my driver side frame rail...

http://www.xcessivemanufacturi...tep=4

cool link man! something to consider

Post by **Jah1mon** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:07 am

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:That rust is childs play... can you poke a screwdriver through it? If not, grind it down to clean metal, weld a patch over if desired, and then undercoat it.

I can't poke a screwdriver through it, but it's definitely soft to the touch. Cutting it out and welding a patch is required. But replacing the entire rail is also an option I see now.

Post by **tEknoS13** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:40 am

adrians_s13 wrote:
cool link man! something to consider

Someone had posted that recently and it is cool, but kind of steep. 200 for something you can just cut and weld yourself. I went down to the sheet metal place and bought a 4'x4' piece of 16 gauge for the frame for $15!! Then again I understand some people don't really like to touch such projects.

Post by **JDMSKYSZ** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:37 pm

Are you gonna sell iti was kinda looking for a parts car for my 240sx

Post by **Nissan409** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:43 pm

Its really not that hard to cut and weld, if there is no gaping holes or anything serious you dont need to replace the frame rail.

Cut and weld=ez Mode.

Replacing a frame rail=somewhat of a pain in the a**, and making sure the rail is totally square, lined up, matching the other side would be difficult.

Rust on Frame rail

Rust on Frame rail

Re: (EpicNightMayor)

Re: (Koshin)

FN-QR

Re: FN-QR (snwbrdr435)

Re: FN-QR (Jah1mon)

Re: FN-QR (snwbrdr435)

Re: Rust on Frame rail (Jah1mon)

Re: Rust on Frame rail (robinsone)

Re: Rust on Frame rail (Jah1mon)

Re: (charlieo)

Re: (Jah1mon)

Re: Rust on Frame rail (robinsone)

Re: (PapaSmurf2k3)

Re: Rust on Frame rail (adrians_s13)

Re: Rust on Frame rail (Jah1mon)

Re: Rust on Frame rail (JDMSKYSZ)

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