running very lean - just got enthalpy tune

[kguittar]

I just got my enthalpy tuned ecu back and I plugged it in and as soon as I started up my car the thing was running VERY rich. I got excited about the ecu and didn't think to unplug my SAFC-2; so I did and now it is running extremely lean. I rev it up and it falls flat on its face and dies.

Any ideas here? I'm running 550cc injectors with a z32 maf and the s15 turbo. I also have bc 256 deg cams.

The only thing I can think of is maybe the cams aren't timed just right.....but i'm no mechanic.

thanks in advance for any input.

[DrifterProdigy85]

Does it idle on its own at all?

[CSUPUEBLOTIM]

Is it throwing any codes?

[srdub-t]

if it was running fine before the ecu i doubt your cam timing is off.. try leaving the safc in but with no feul corrections.

[Sabot]

What's your fuel press now? Did the tune change your fuel press? cause I think they tune to 50 something if I remember correctly. Give them a call and post back.

[srdub-t]

no enthalpy tunes for stock fuel pressure 43 psi.. i doubt anything is wrong with the tune because he does them all day.. I think it might have something to do with the safc.. When u disconect the safc i think you might have to rewire something down at the harness..

[kainvamp]

yea when you disconnect an safc, i think you have to reconnect the wire that splits off into the white and yellow wire on the safc harness. its like the maf signal wire to the ecu

[DrifterProdigy85]

Enthalpy does tune for 50psi fuel pressure if you dont specify what fuel pressure you run. He does that because if you combine the Walbro Pump and Stock FPR thats what the Fuel Pressure becomes. This wont cause it to be that lean to stall out though. Im leaning toward something with the SAFC.

[kguittar]

Does it idle on its own at all?

the car does idle on its own fine, its only when i give it gas it dies.

if it was running fine before the ecu i doubt your cam timing is off.. try leaving the safc in but with no feul corrections.

it never did run right before the ecu tune. it would always do the same thing but now its more extreme and undriveable.

Is it throwing any codes?

i haven't checked for any codes - i didn't think i could sense i did the sr20det swap.

judging by some of the comments i probably need to get a fuel pressure regulator and check my fuel pressure. I unplugged the safc but I have not rewired anything yet, I'm guessing I will just have to cut and splice things back to normal.

so the cam timing might still be on the table since it didn't run right before the ecu. I will try and replug the safc in first and set it with no fuel corrections before i delete it completely.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

[srdub-t]

is your cam angle sensor in there properly.

[DrifterProdigy85]

If the car starts, the cam timing is probably alright. Double check your timing with a Timing Light to be sure. If thats fine, maybe adjust your IACV. If thats not set properly, the car will idle all messed up after applying throttle.

[kguittar]

sorry in advance for what is probably a stupid question but how do I adjust the IACV? is there a standard position it is supposed to be in?

[blackhole1]

did you put the injectors and maf on your own? I have an enthalpy tune also did not run right, I went over everything that i had changed or fixed on the engine, and to my surprise ... the fuel rail was not seated properly so air was seeping out by the injectors, check for leaks check all wiring to maf; if you are getting rid of afc reconnect the two wires you had to cut when splicing in the afc and solder them!! or just leave it in if you don't feel comfortable, if you solder disconnect the ecu and battery.

my car is running fine now other than my gas milage lol. Good luck!your going to love the tune.

oh by the way you will have to set idle at least I did.

[rc1honda]

First i would degree the cams. Cam timing and cam degree are 2 different things and yes your car will run with the cams off by a couple fo degrees. BC cams are notorious for needing cam gears to dgree the cams. Buy some cam gears and degree them. Also zero out or intialize your SAFC and just run of the ECU. then check your maf and injectors make sure all grounds are good. Check your CAS. Break out the multi meter and check the TPS voltage .35-.45 closed and over 4.0 WOT. Also change out the Coolant temp sensor, this can cuz the ECU to read cold all the time dumping fuel and boggin the motor. Then i would check meachanical timing, lose the timing light, most of the time the read 20 degrees off for some reason, timing lights with distributorless igntions are not always the accurate. Pull the valve cover line up the dots and make sure. That way you can start to narrow stuff down. After all if your stil having a problem then check your Spark i.e coils, plugs, ignitior. You saidyou were going to check the fuel route first. Check FPR and injector grounds. Make sure you grounded the injectors on the back side of the motor a lot of people tend to forget that ground point. After you check fuel and spark then check the air flow. If that fails then break aout the multi-meter again and check wiring, then if that fails to then check compression and do a leak down test. Sounds like alot but the first few things a i told you you can knockout in a weekend. GL P.S gutiar you chage the IAVC buy turing the screw betweem the the 3rd and 4th intake runners. It migth be the 2nd and 3rd but you can miss it, it's a large screw on the top of the metal box right below the inake.
Modified by rc1honda at 8:30 AM 5/5/2009