Running stupid rich, codes, etc

[lightning2000]

After all kinds of issues with the engine smoking months ago due to what I believe I incorrectly diagnosed as a blown head gasket (I assumed the worse instead of checking the ecu for codes...I know, stupid), I am getting the knock sensor code. I replaced it along with the 02 sensor, coolant temp sensor, the one beside it that I dont remember right off, and head gasket and every one that goes along with it. Crank the car and it hesitates before starting then runs...ok at best. Starts running even worse. Check and I have 2 bad injectors. Replace both of those and the stupid thing is running crazy rich. Thought maybe I had a leaky injector so I proceed to replace all o-rings and check to see if I'm having one leak by pressurizing the system and all appears to be well. Cleared all the codes at this point and the started the car and let it run 30 minutes to see if it threw any codes. It does...34 and 13. Knock sensor and coolant temp sensor. Oh wait a minute...I just replaced those!!!! I've replaced most of the vacuum lines. I sprayed the others with carb cleaner to see if I had a leaky one which I don't seem to have. Plugs are black, smoke smells of gas. I have a used maf coming this week. What else is there to do? I'm frustrated as hell right now and honestly don't know the next thing to try. Car has been off the road 8 months because of this same stuff. I keep changing out this, that, and the other with no good results. Please help....

Car is a 91 hatch ka24de

[compactfean]

Engine timing set correct after hg? What's timing at? What's fuel pressure at? Ohm tested coil? Car run idle better with maf disconnected?

[lightning2000]

I have not done any of the above. I marked all locations when changing the head gaskets so I'm pretty confident that's good but I will certainly go ahead and check the timing and do all the above mention. Any other suggestions?

[lightning2000]

Unplugged the MAF while running and it stumbled for a second then ran much smoother. However...it still smokes badly. Reved the engine both with and without the maf plugged in and immediately after I get fluctuating idle. I am also still getting code 34 for the knock sensor even after clearing codes. I put a 100k ohm resister into the wiring harness and it still gave me the code. Am I an idiot and put in wrong?

[compactfean]

Id say if your car runs smoother without maf, there is an issue with the maf. As far as the knock sensor, it should go wire-resistor--ground. The smoking could be anything from leaking injector o-ring to bad coolant temp sensor to maf to.fuel prewire regulator...

[lightning2000]

Yeah I have a maf on the way right now to fix that issue. Ok obviously I screwed up the knock sensor check. Help me here. There are 2 holes in the harness plug. Could you please explain how that goes. Wire in one side that is connected to the resistor on one end then ground the other side of the resistor? I'm going to get a guel pressure gauge to check all those issues. Already replaced the coolant temp sensor. There a good way of checking that one?

[compactfean]

Yes if I remember correctly, the colder it is, the more resistance it has ... 2-3k ohms I think. Then as it warms up drops to .?? Ohms. Check the fsm for specs on that. The knock sensor has 2 ”wires” but not really. The white wire goes straight from ecu to the knock sensor (hint hint, continuity test!) And the other is just shielding that goes from knock sensor plug, shields the signal wire, and eventually goes to chassis ground. It doesn't actually plug into the sensor. So the resistor it goes ecu-wire-resistor-ground.

[lightning2000]

Oh ok. I just got the 100k ohm value after doing some searching on different forums. I'll check the fsm to see what the actual value is along with doing a continuity test. Thanks for the explanation of the resister order. So plugging into the side the white wire goes to, I need to do a wire attached to the resistor, and then a wire from the end of the resister grounded to the chassis.

[compactfean]

The ohm change I was referring to when cold was for the coolant temp sensor, I thought that's what you were talking about.checking ....

[ViolatoR]

Would the knock sensor cause it to run rich?? Because I'm getting that error 34 too.

I've had a recurring problem with a couple of my injectors, and usually when they go bad they cause the spark plug wire to pop out. The valve cover gasket and the plugs are new and look good, but a couple plug wires were pushed up recently while driving and now it idles at a slightly higher than normal RPM and my exhaust smells like the car is running rich.

Ok before posting this I decided to test the MAF:

So, I just disconnected the MAF while the car was running and it shook less violently and idled lower, but when giving it gas it sounded way off and the idle after that was too low. But now that the MAF is reconnected, the engine isn't rocking as hard as before this experiment, though still pretty darn bad, and the idle is a respectable 700rpm instead of being over 1,000 like before. Also, the exhaust doesn't smell like gas now. (I think it's supposed to idle at around 750rpm right?) There's still something clearly wrong or my car wouldn't have had the original problems and the car wouldn't still be bouncing around like Michael J. Fox.


Edit: Ok I just drove a half a mile away through the neighborhood to a burrito place and when I got back in my car is started up and ran perfectly all the way home. No excessive bounce, the idle was at 750rpm, and it sounded like a correct air/fuel mixture was getting to the engine. I mean, I'm happy and all but after working on the car for while it's puzzling.


Edit: Drove it a little bit again. Only difference is that now after pulling that stunt with taking off the MAF while the car was running, I'm getting a error code 12 "air flow sensor." Car's running as it always has though.