Running rich, need help!

[wynnEZ]

I went to go pick up a car today, 90 240 with ca in it. Test drove it ran really smooth, and decided to get it. On the way home we only had like 6 miles left of the 60 mile trip the car started bogging down and died. I pulled over tried to start it what it would do it start then dye. We held the gas and started it and it ran only at high rpms, anything lower than 3k it died. We babied it the rest of the 6 miles which it was just smoking horribly (unburnt gas). We pulled a plug and it was just solid black.

Here are the engine upgrades:

t28 turbohks acuatorss turbo lines550 injectorsSard fuel pressure reg with gaugefmickoyo radgreedy bovhoned intakehks air filteraem tru boost gauge

It ran just fine on the way home, it would boost just fine and everything. Im thinking that an injector is stuck open or has something to do with the maf or fpr. I really need to get a safc to tune the fuel. Im not sure that has something to do with it also, but it ran fine when we got it.

If anyone has any input I would greatly appreciate it.

UPDATE:

I found a intercooler boot that was off and hooked it back up. It idles now and revs when in neutral but when in gear it stutters and what now. Should I be making boost when in neutral and reving it?
Modified by wynnEZ at 3:42 PM 6/15/2008

[Ca_Silvia]

You wont be able to make boos tin neutral, the car has to be under load ie. Driving

[wynnEZ]

Thank you Aaron, Im going to replace the spark plugs because they got fouled when running really rich. Any other suggestions?

[Ca_Silvia]

Unfortunatly running rich is a very common CA problem.

What is you vacuum at idle when fully warmed up? If it is less then 20 start hunting for vacuum leaks.

Clean your AFM. Check your timing. What is your fuel pressure at when you follow the FPR instructions in the Stickies?

You have to start eliminating possibilities and then i can help more.

[wynnEZ]

I will check all those suggestions. Thanks

[wynnEZ]

Ok I put the plugs in and it didn't really help much, my vac was at 16 so I started looking for leak but found nothing. It sounds like a leak might be around the turbo/wastegate area? Could that be the case. Tomorrow I will check the timing, do you need to pull off the CAS and the cover to check it or can you use the timing light. Also I found out there looks to be no TPS, I will take a picture and post it up tomorrow too.

Thanks

[Ca_Silvia]

Ok I put the plugs in and it didn't really help much, my vac was at 16 so I started looking for leak but found nothing. It sounds like a leak might be around the turbo/wastegate area? Could that be the case. Tomorrow I will check the timing, do you need to pull off the CAS and the cover to check it or can you use the timing light. Also I found out there looks to be no TPS, I will take a picture and post it up tomorrow too.

Thanks

16 is for sure low vacuum, keep hunting that boost leak. Yes a boost leak will cause rich conditions and less power. Do a compression test/leak down test. If you are un sure how to do them just ask i can tell you. Do this 1st it can tell us alot. What is your fuel pressure as per the stickies?

To be clear did you do the boost leak test with the throttle open? It made a huge deal on my motor having the throttle wedged open rather then closed. Try spraying certain problem areas with soapy water then pressurizing the system.

The wastegate can be an option for you to be losing boost, try and find another off a T25 or T25g turbo and swap it on. It takes 5 mins to change out the actuator. EDIT: Saw you had a HKS Adjustable, i highly doubt it is the wastegate now.

To check your base timing just use a timing light, clamped off the loop thing on the coil pack harness, DO NOT touch the CAS right now.

And you having no TPS is just ****ed up in so many ways i can't understand. Pics please

[ca18detgabby]

16 is for sure low vacuum, keep hunting that boost leak. Yes a boost leak will cause rich conditions and less power. Do a compression test/leak down test. If you are un sure how to do them just ask i can tell you. Do this 1st it can tell us alot. What is your fuel pressure as per the stickies?

To be clear did you do the boost leak test with the throttle open? It made a huge deal on my motor having the throttle wedged open rather then closed. Try spraying certain problem areas with soapy water then pressurizing the system.

The wastegate can be an option for you to be losing boost, try and find another off a T25 or T25g turbo and swap it on. It takes 5 mins to change out the actuator. EDIT: Saw you had a HKS Adjustable, i highly doubt it is the wastegate now.

To check your base timing just use a timing light, clamped off the loop thing on the coil pack harness, DO NOT touch the CAS right now.

And you having no TPS is just ****ed up in so many ways i can't understand. Pics please

could also have a valve stuck open in the butterfly system..... IIRC that is the issue tim was having.(one of them anyway)

@ 16 what happens when you step on the throttle? it shouldnt be a cold start condition as it is summer right?

what are you doing to rectify the HUGE(over stock) injectors? that will bog you down and make you run rich as all hell

[wynnEZ]

We checked the fuel pressure and it was at 39 psi, so thats ok. Im having trouble just keeping the car running at times. It just dumping massive amounts of fuel into it. Here are some pictures that I took to see what you guys think, and for some reason my maf doesn't look right.

Is this a stock MAF?

What do these go to?

And these?

Heres the timing...

And a picture of the car...

As of now there nothing to help tune the 550's. I really have no clue how he had it running so well without them. I plan of getting a wide-band and safc to tune with as of now, ordering tonight. I will still hunt for a vacuum leak.

Thanks guys

[ca18detgabby]

might check and see if the ECU has been chipped. thats massive amounts of fuel to be running a stock ECU with no tuning.

[wynnEZ]

Will check it. Does teh timing look to be ok?

[rico05]

I had the same issue with my TPS. According to the FSM, there is supposed to be three wires going to it (12V refrence, signal and ground) I was missing the signal. So I hard wired it to the ECU and the car runs much better.

[Ca_Silvia]

Your timing seems alittle off, to me it looks like it is not at TDC. Some one else will have to clarify this as i am not 100% positive regarding the timing.

However, you are missing a TPS (not good)

You may have untuned 550 injector (definatly contributing to being rich)

39psi fuel pressure is to much. Needs to be 36 as per the stickies.

Because you dont really know where you stand in terms of management. I reccomend you get a stock ECU, install a TPS, install stock 370s, lower you fuel pressure and then see where you stand. Otherwise it will be impossible to diagnose whats going on.

[wynnEZ]

Im taking pictures of my ecu right now. Im just having trouble understanding how it ran so well... Ill let the pictures up in like 5 mins. BTW does my maf look right?

[Ca_Silvia]

Also i believe that the correct CA MAF is: #22680-58A10.

[Ca_Silvia]

If it did run right, then i can only assume that it is tuned for what you have. You maf doesn't look right to me.

[wynnEZ]

Ok here are some more pictures.

ECU:

Vent Hoses this also doesn't seem right :

And it looks like something should go there.

I will try to get a TPS and some 370's, hope the pictures help.

[Ca_Silvia]

You need a TPS for sure, wait on the 370's as your ECU might be tune so save yourself the money.

1 You "chip" is underneath that small board, you should see the screws to lift the board. Just take them out and take a pic of the "chip"

2 First hose goes to the turbo inlet pipe or a catch can

3 2nd hose goes from your PCV which should be on the back on the intake manifold plate (top right, cant miss it) to your intake valve cover.

4 in the last pic you are completly missing all your butterfly soleniods. To replace them can be expensive or you can leave them un hooked and deal with the lack of torque under 3000rpm.

Anything else im on roll here?!?

[wynnEZ]

Ahh that would explain the no torque before the boost. Im going to work, when I get back its on!

[wynnEZ]

Ok, I ordered a SAFCII, Innovate Wideband, and a tune for my setup through Jason at Emance. I cant seem to find any TPS's for the ca. Does anyone know who would have one. I also have some more pictures for you guys, Ill post them up in a min.

Thanks

[ca18detgabby]

I would try Dee.......... I dont have any extras.

IIRC there is one you can use for the CA, but I cant for the life of me remember.

[sydwayz]

find a use ka throttle body and throw that on there its bigger neways

[meminto]

Glad you found the vaccuum leak You really need that tps, that could also be the major problem here.

Have your performed the ecu dignostics mode 3? There could be a problem with your ecu temp sensor.

The cold start condition will still be used regardless of season as the system works on engine temp not ambient temp.

When the engine temp is low (ie cold start) fuel is injected into all four cylinders simultaneously twice per cycle, instead of warmed up firing order (1-3-4-2). This condition also occurs for start cranking and heavy load.

The engine temp sensor is a major component of this process, if for some reason the ecu cannot detect it, it will cause some of the rich fuel issues you are experiencing.

If you are unsure how to perfrom the diag mode 3, I can post the relevant information...

[wynnEZ]

I have a full size service manual for the 200sx so I can look up the Mode III. I have it idling fine now its just when I start to give it gas. I have to very slowly give it throttle or it will bog. I will look for a ka throttle body, is there any wiring to do with the tps or is it just plug and play?

[wynnEZ]

Does it matter what throttle body i use (de or e)?

Thanks

[meminto]

Sorry mate, that I don't know as in australia the KA mod is not as readily available. However there is info on this site relating to the mod that I have read.

Check out the sticky with all the ca common faqs..

[wynnEZ]

I couldn't find it in the stickies where it said d or de throttle body.

[Ca_Silvia]

Either one will work the E is an easier swap.

[wynnEZ]

Cool thank you.

[wynnEZ]

Big update:

Ok here we go, I went ahead and got the ecu tuned and purchased a SAFC II. Installed those just fine, got a new throttle body with a TPS sensor and works fine. Installed a z32 maf not sure the voltage on that but its installed. Got a Innovate Wideband not installed yet, and a AEM oil pressure gauge, with a mess of other goodies.

I go to start it up and has a worst boost leak than before, im getting around -11 on the boost gauge. So then I unhook a vac line and it starts to idle better... it makes no sense. I just want this thing running! If anyone can shoot me some more help that would be great. What would it run like if the turbo was blown?

Thanks