Running rich and hesitation

[WollyAjnin]

Put the car up on blocks for the winter an I've had it down for a month or two now. However ive been having a few issues with it that have me stumped. Car is a '95 s14 ka24de

Engine mods
-Cold air
-Header and exhaust

Issues
-Uneven idle. Anywhere from 800-1100, It usually sits at 800 once i've been driving for a 10 minutes or so
-Running crazy rich. Still get about 20-23mpg though
-Hesitation and stumbling at times, not to bad but it still happens

Codes
-Code for iacv
-Code for maf sensor

Things i've done
-Cleaned throttle body
-Cleaned maf sensor (with sensor cleaner)
-Replaced the iacv with a brand new one
-Checked the tps and maf and both were fine
-Vacuum test, everything seemed fine

Extra info
-Last year i also was running codes for the pcm and o2. those reset since i had my car on blocks for the winter with the battery out. They didn't come back however
-egr delete. I did not do this i didn't know it had been deleted when i bought the car. However, i'm beginning to think this is the reason for all my problems. I've read you need a tune if you delete the egr but, i don't really want to get a tune for an na engine without any other mods. Could i reinstall an egr?

Anyway, if any of you could help me figure out what the issue is it would be GREATLY appreciated

Thanks,

Nate

[biggie]

Try finding someone with a new MAF to swap out?

Checked for exhaust leaks? Like the EGR hole in exhaust? Don't need tune after egr delete.

Checked spark plugs/wires?

[WollyAjnin]

I don't think I could find a maf to try. Some people said to unplug to check it. When I unplugged it the rpm went up to 2k.

I'll check for exhaust leaks and the spark plugs tomorrow

[WollyAjnin]

Ok been doing some work and checking on things. Checked the plugs, they smelled pretty bad of gas. Also before checking them I noticed the smell of gas from the left side of the engine bay. Couldn't find the source

Front plug
[

Rear plug


Also found this. Open o2?

[WollyAjnin]

Small update:

1. Found out i have an open knock sensor connecter

2. Gap on plug is correct .44 (ngk iridium, threads black)

3. Still running PO100 (maf) and PO505 (iacv, already replaced) codes

4. When the rpms are coming down, like revving in neutral, the tach comes down kinda choppy

5. The egr sensor is still connected with a red wire coming out. Do i need to get a dummy sensor for this?

6. Pretty positive i don't have any exhaust leaks

7. My car takes a trick to start. Kinda have to wait with the key in the on position, then crank on it. Haven't noticed this till now cause i can start it first time but, there is a noise coming from fuse box in the engine bay. Any ideas what that might be?

Thanks for your help,

Nate

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The choppy tach is scary. Could be a bad crank angle sensor, which, in turn could be throwing off the rest of your car's fuel maps.
I fixed your pictures so they actually appear. You had something like 2 extra image tags on each one of them, as well as the much hated url tag.
The last picture is simply where your EGR tube used to connect. It has been plugged, so that's good.

Does the car run rich throughout the entire RPM band? If you're driving along normally, is it still rich? Your plugs don't look TOO bad.

[WollyAjnin]

Hmm...glad i said something about the tach then. How would i go about checking that?

Ok thanks. When i copy the link from my mobile photobucket app it must automatically add the img tag. Whats the url tag?

How would i check to see if i'm running rich through my whole powerband? I have noticed a bit more back firing when i engine break and let the gear run down through the rpm range. When my engine does stumble it makes noise like back firing with all loss of power, almost like going into neutral.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Usually we say monitor the tach and if it jumps, the hall sensor is going bad hahaha.
if you copy the link from photobucket, it already has the image tags in it... you shouldn't have to add them here on NICO. The URL tag is something photobucket is doing recently to redirect clicks to their page... I find it annoying (other sites do it too).

If you see black smoke coming out the exhaust while you drive, then its running rich through the whole rpm range. Have you checked your timing lately?

[WollyAjnin]

Haha ok. Well the tach goes up smooth and comes down a little choppy.

As far as my exhaust gas, it just smells heavily of gas. Just normal exhaust color no black, blue, or white.

I just got a good tip about a local parts store that i should be able to pick up an maf pretty cheap there. So i'll try that today and see if that changes anything.

[Harrythook]

Hey Nate,
Reading this one very possible source of the problem comes to mind. I know you checked the IAC setting and your timing, but did you check the base idle?
The throttle needs to come to rest and the TPS must see its at no throttle. As a rule there must be some air "leakage" past the throttle blade for the system to operate. You will get goofy codes for the IAC and other codes if this is not correct, and one of the clues you gave is the dramatic increase in rpm when sensors unplugged. And if this is the problem it will cause poor engine startup.
Most base idle failures are caused by incorrect settings at the throttle stop, but in your case it just might be a dirty throttle (sat for a while, right?) Refer back to the information here in the FSM, and if daring back off the base idle set screw a bit and see if things change.

[WollyAjnin]

When i first replaced my iacv i set the idle screw as low as it could go and i'm idling a bit high at times (like i said anywhere from 800-1100). Is that the screw your talking about? Are you saying that when i unplug my maf sensor i should have the screw set to where my idle would be at a normal rpm range?

I've been doing a bit more reading and i think my next plan of action is to do a live data read of my o2 sensor. I read that you can pick up on any leaks one might have. I also read that was the best way to check for bad injectors. From what i read a bad injector has similar symptoms as a bad maf and can make an maf code.

I think my problem has to do with a vacuum leak somewhere (already checked lines, so maybe manifold gasket?), bad injector, or maf sensor. Went to a local shop and the guy would only feel comfortable selling me a hitachi maf sensor. Know anywhere i could pick up one for not to much?

Still wondering if me not having a knock sensor is creating a timing retard thats enhancing whatever issue I'm having.

[WollyAjnin]

If you see black smoke coming out the exhaust while you drive, then its running rich through the whole rpm range. Have you checked your timing lately?

Friend was following me today and said he saw some black exhaust, not a lot, but some. So i guess that answers that lol

So if that has to do with the timing, could it be because of me not having a knock sensor. From what the previous owner said i still had about 20-30k miles left before i needed to do anything with my timing belts. Based off the rest of the car who knows haha

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Your car doesn't have timing belts, it has timing chains.

Not having a knock sensor SHOULD throw a CEL, and probably change your timing map.

You need to check for bad MAF and TPS wiring, hook the damn knock sensor back up (or at least put an appropriate resistor in the harness), check your coolant temp sensor, check your ignition timing, and check your valve timing. Checking fuel pressure would be good as well.

[WollyAjnin]

Ok i checked my injectors and they are all at 11.3-11.4 at 200 ohms and sound to be operating fine.

Plug wires: at 20k ohms
1st cylinder .06, 2nd cylinder .08, 3rd cylinder .11, 4th cylinder .11

Maf sensor wires coming from the engine
Constant wire (middle right, at 20 volts) 12.16
Ground wire (middle left) .2-.10 ohms
I couldn't figure out how to test the signal (researched a lot, no cigar), however when i was messing with the wire my idle was all over and the engine almost stalled a few times.

Tps wires
left wire .5 ohms, right wire 5.12 volts, and again couldn't test signal wire

I need to get a timing gun to check the timing as soon as possible.

Valve timing: Do you control this with the dizzy? (bolt next 1st cylinder in a little track) If so my is off center more toward the front of the car

When to advanced auto for the o2 read. They couldn't get the the min or max but they did get the voltages
Dwonstream rich to lean .55, lean to rich .6
Upstream rich to lean .43, lean to rich .48
Then there was a low voltage at .35 and high of .55

They also pulled a new p0110 code. Which is the temp sensor 1

Also checked vac leaks again, nothing.

Checking fuel pressure tomorrow.

I'm stupid. the knock sensor is installed in the engine. It isn't connected to anything. It has an open sensor connecter. When looking for what it connects to i found these.....i don't know what they are

[WollyAjnin]

Update:
Checked my ground read 0 to .2 ohms

The hose in the above pic goes onto my intake. Previous owner rigged up some boot to attach it and failed. Got a proper boot and it is back on.

Also found a hoes disconnected vac hose from egr vsv. Reattached that as well. Exhaust smells different now, still runs rich, idle is a bit more study. However when i start it it goes up to 1.2k drops down, almost stalls, goes back up. then settles around 800-1k rpm.

Also checked my fpr. Smelled gas in the vac line. Going to go get a replacement part for that. Is there a schrader valve on the ka24de. Can't seem to find it or any guide to check fuel pressure for this car lol

Going to see if my mechanic can do a smoke test for vac leaks

[WollyAjnin]

The maf signal wire is at 1.45 volts at idle. The voltage changes when rpm increases as well

Sorry for triple post. Have only been able to edit one post, otherwise the edit button doesn't pop up.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Weird, the vacuum line smells like gas? I've never heard of a fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel past itself, but I suppose its possible. There is no schrader valve for fuel pressure, only A/C. You have to hook an in-line gauge up.
MAF voltage sounds a bit high at idle. I can't really remember what its supposed to be though. I'm sure its in the factory service manual.

[WollyAjnin]

Update: Checked the fuel pressure. With fuel pump engaged but car not on, it started at 30 psi. Within two minutes it had already dropped 2 psi. After waiting 20 minutes it dropped 10 psi and stayed at 20 psi after that. Turned the car on and the car ran at 30 psi. Unplugged the fuel pressure regulator it jumped up to 40 psi. With the car at 2-3k rpm it ran at about 33 to 34 psi. The fpr vac line still smells like gas. I'll start by replacing the fpr and see if i still have a leak in my injectors and fuel pump after that. What suggestions do you guys have for an fpr. Probably going ka-t down the road if that affects suggestions.

Also was looking at my fuse box when disconnecting the fuel pump fuse to get rid of the fuel pressure while installing my gauge and new fuel filter and noticed this. The top left is the A/T cont and it is missing?What does this stand for couldn't find it any where. Also what is the fuse on the far right the goes up and down instead of left to right?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I like adjustable fuel pressure regulators with built in gauges. Those fuel pressure numbers don't seem too bad, but if its somehow leaking fuel into the vacuum line, then you'll have problems.
A/T should be automatic transmission if I'm not mistaken, but you can double check in the FSM. Are there not names/diagrams on the other side of the fuse box lid?