Running on water??

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elwesso
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Ok, before I do this, I want to make sure its OK..... I bought this stuff, and it is supposed to clean out the cooling system..... but it says to drain the radiator twice and then run this stuff through it, and run it for 3-6 hours (maybe 150 miles).... I just want to know, is running with that stuff and just water going to do any damage within maybe 2 days of operation???


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AZhitman
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Shouldn't. Is it a cooling system flush? Follow the directions, and make sure to flush WELL afterwards with clean water. Refill with distilled, Redline WW and top off with AF.

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elwesso
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Thats the plan....... Its a cleaner stuff, its this stuff

http://www.valvoline.com/pages...ct=15

Can I get redline WW at places like NAPA??

Also, are the OTC tstats OK to use?? Like beck and arnley or stant..... Those are the ones you can get at autoparts stores......

Can I use tap water to flush it out, but use distilled the last couple of flushes???

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AZhitman
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Yes.

Yes, but for the same price you can get one from Joe.

Yes.

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elwesso
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Ok, just one more thing...... Would it be a bad idea to completely remove the tstat during the flush session, for unrestriced coolant flow??

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AZhitman
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Yes.

Remove tstat when you rinse out the flush chemicals.

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float_6969
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is there a noticeble difference in operating temperature when performing something of this nature? Should you wait till you have a problem, or should it be perfomed on a maintainence basis. If so, what would the time interval be for this?

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elwesso
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I am doing it because my electric fan runs most the time, even on a hot idle, which means it is running at 200 at idle!!!

Its not worth waiting, just do it!!!

Probably every 100k would be fine!!

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elwesso
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BTW, the car is supposed to run at 176*F!!!

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float_6969
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my damn fan never comes on! but I've NEVER had my car get hot either. It's got a new thermostat, but usually I have problems getting it to heat up. Plus, I'm trying to kill my motor so I have an excuse to get a new motor, so the more that I don't do the more that will break. Who needs oil changes anyway!!!

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elwesso
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You really are a HONDA KILLER, that is if thats what you drive!! If you drive an infiniti, SHAME ON YOU!!!

The TSTAT could be stuck open??!!

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AZhitman
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KS_Honda_Killer wrote:is there a noticeble difference in operating temperature when performing something of this nature? Should you wait till you have a problem, or should it be perfomed on a maintainence basis. If so, what would the time interval be for this?


Annually would be wise. However, a cooling system that has NOT been regularly maintained every couple years may have too much scale and deposits built up to be easily removed via a chemical flush. In that instance, replacing the radiator is the only real cost-effective remedy (besides several flushes of the block water passages).

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float_6969
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the radiator is less than a year old. and I drive 1990 240sx Coupe. Oddly enough, my present car is slow as hell and I've neve done any damage to a honda, though I've beaten a few in my last 2 240's. Bad name, but it's too late to change it now. Maybe the mods could help me with this one! Anyway to change my username and keep my thread count? Probabally not, but I thought I'd try!

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KS

email me if u want those changes and yes i can save your postcount.

Fred...:)

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elwesso
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Time for resurrection!!!

Woudl running tap water sort of counter-act the cleaning agents in the cleaner??

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Depends on where you live and what junk the water department uses to make the water look safe........All those billons/trillions of dead bacteria and plants add up. But the live ones don't munch on aluminum ...much.

Most water departments add lots of chemical to make the water sparkle these calcium/magnesium compounds form the insulative film. Too much chlorine can eat the aluminum fast........why 89 cent per gallon distilled water is best.

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elwesso
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Thanks....... I was referring to using the tap water when the cleaner is going to be in the car..... No more than a 2 days....... Since it calls to flush the radiator 2 times before adding it to the system..........

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elwesso
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Not for the final flush with 70/30 af/water!!!

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elwesso
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RESURRECTION TIME AGAIN!!! (sorry)

Where do I get redline WW, because my dad went to napa for me and none of the guys there have ever heard of redline water wetter..... Is there something equivalent to it???

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AZhitman
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No equivalent. Try a local speed shop. I'd have sworn NAPA carried it (they do in AZ).

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elwesso
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What exactly is RLWW supposed to do??

Would there be any other big name place that could possibly carry this (im at the lakes, and I dont know what is around here)

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If you have Pep Boys in your area, they stock (or did the last time I checked) Redline WW.

Heath

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RLWW "wets" coolant, meaning that it changes the properties (I suppose) of how coolant adheres to metal. It increases the amount of heat transfer between the fluid and the metal it contacts. This means that the coolant in the engine will "soak up" more heat, making the engine cooler. On the flipside, it'll also allow the coolant to dump more heat into the surface area of the radiator, which dumps heat to the atmosphere.

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http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm

Interesting reading. Redline claims their RWW can decrease coolant temperature by up to 30 degrees Farenheit.

Nick

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As Dennis has pointed out, the additive could actually raise the temp of the coolant. It will increase the amount of heat entering AND the amount of heat leaving. The question is, which increase is greater. Hopefully the increase in heat exiting is greater than the increase in heat entering.

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90Q45blue
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Yeah, that's what the graph shows anyway. Heat exiting is greater.

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AZhitman
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Any experience with a product called "40 below" (something like that). Larger container, but makes the same claims as RWW. $20, and comes in a metal container (like a paint thinner can).

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90Q45blue wrote:Yeah, that's what the graph shows anyway. Heat exiting is greater.


That's what the graph shows, but those graphs are for one engine and one engine oinly in a given set of conditions. The biggest factors in net heat transfer differences are the surface areas of the heads' water jackets and the radiator. The radiator in the test case mighe be (is probably) a lot larger than the radiator in most cars. A smaller radiator will show a smaller increase in heat transfer. I have intended for a long time to do some in depth testing of both RLWW and various routings of the transmission cooler. Someday I'll get to it and I'll post my results when I do.

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Robert,

You make a good point. I wasn't even thinking of that when looking at the graph. At any rate, I haven't heard any members complain about it so I think I'll be using it. But please post those test results whenever you get around to it.

Nick :)

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No question your *engine* will be cooler if you use the product...the only risk is that your coolant might be hotter--possibly enough to cause a retardation of the timing. As long as this doesn't happen, then RLWW is a good thing to use.


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