Running on 3 Cylinders - distributor?

[thomasjamal]

So since I replaced my fuel injectors my car has been running on 3 cyl. The problem is that different cylinders keep going out.

Initially after I replaced all four injectors #3 was out so I checked the spark plug and it seemed to be firing so I switched the #2 and #3 injectors and then number #2 was out. So I determined it was the injector and replaced that fuel injector and it ran fine for five minutes. Then #4 went out. I realized that if I pulled the plug wire out a little it would run and thought it was just a bad connection. So I replaced all the spark plugs and used the slightly longer connectors.

Then the car ran great for almost exactly 1 day.

Then #1 went out. I've also done an initial compression check and found all four to be on the low end but still in the acceptable range. I also considered that the ECU could have gotten wet and checked it for moisture (also no moisture in the plug wells) and the wiring all looks fine.

Could a bad distributor be causing random cylinders to go out?

Any suggestions?

[thomasjamal]

Also, when the car started running on all four for a day, it stopped burning oil and smoking. As soon as #1 went out and it was running on three it started smoking like a European crack whore.

[nzmoman]

if we can get together we can do the ECU check...but I know you dont want to wait...

Im still thinking its something along those lines because of the injectors and random cyl issues...Also, I dont know how to check for any issues with a fuel rail, but im sure there is something on here for that.

later

[thomasjamal]

I don't mind waiting; I just don't want to drive that far if I can't get it running on all 4.

I'm gonna go ahead and replace the distributer and rotor (since it hasn't been done anyway) and get a new fuel filter and o2 sensor (why not).

I've been told that the distributer can go bad and cause similar problems, including leaking oil, on cars with the transverse KA. So, if I can find a good distributer for a good price I might go ahead and replace it.

[nzmoman]

okay.

but dont worry soon it will all be over and your car will be a turbo monster

[thomasjamal]

Yep, right after I win the lottery...

[thomasjamal]

Replaced distributor cap and rotor, made no difference.

Results of cold FI resistance test: 11.7, 11.8, 11.8, 11.7.

[180fan]

yeah it's possible. check to see if your plugs are firing at all first. once you verify if they're sparking, then you move on from there to the culprit. Check the resistances across the wires. since you've already changed the cap and rotor, did you also notice any puddling of oil under the cap by any chance?

[thomasjamal]

Plugs are firing and there was no oil visible when I pulled the disty cap.

I also just pulled my ECU. I'm getting code 34, knock sensor.

Where/how do I properly check the resistance across the plug wires. I tried it last night and the number I was getting were all over the place.

[Biscuits]

how do you know it's only running on 3? sounds like it's getting fuel and air..check out the injectors with a lab scope, find out if they are actually firing at the right time. you were also getting the numbers all over the place on the resistance check for the wires cause of a faulty multimeter, or bad testing.

[oneline180]

wow, i know exactly what you mean about random cylinders not firing. So far this is what i have done to try and figure out what the hell is wrong with mine.

so far i have tried swapping:- the plugs- the wires- friend's working distributor- friend's working coil with transistor and all- swapping around the cap and rotor on mine and friend's dist.- friend's ECU

NOTHING seems to help. And its the same one that wont fire. #3...

I have put in DEATSCH Werks injectors too, but now im not too sure they needed to be replaced...

is going on with 240's!?

[thomasjamal]

how do you know it's only running on 3? sounds like it's getting fuel and air..check out the injectors with a lab scope, find out if they are actually firing at the right time. you were also getting the numbers all over the place on the resistance check for the wires cause of a faulty multimeter, or bad testing.

Well the reason I think it's running on 3 is that if I pull out the plug wire from the cylinder that isn't running (currently #1) nothing changes but if I pull out any of the other wires the engine dies. I'm sure that's not a perfect test but it at least gives me a good idea.

As far as the resistance check I'm going to go with bad testing (since the multimeter is brand new) which is why I asked what the correct procedure is

As far as whether the injectors are firing at the right time, I'm not sure. I don't have a lab scope but the fact that it has moved around so much tends to make me thing that it's not as simple as one bad injector but something more universal, like the ECU. But later this week I'm going to try to test the injectors to see if they are firing correctly.

Anybody have any idea if a knock sensor issue (code 34) could be related to this?

[180fan]

Ok well at least the problem is isolated to one cylinder.

you can use a strobe light or noid light to get the injector pulse reading.

the knock sensor can do stuff, but nothing that severe.

[thomasjamal]

So I replaced the fuel injector and put in the auto ECU I bought. Now it's running on all four.

However, it's idling very rough and kind of sputtering a bit. It also bucked at WOT and wants to die when dropping back down to idle.

I also got an aftermarket ignition coil but I wanted to install the ECU before the ignition coil so I can eliminate one problem at a time.

Next is to install the ignition coil but I'm not 100% sure about the wiring.

[rotorimp]

It is still missing? did you ever try a new set of plug wire? how did all the female contacts look on the ecu harness? I had a similar problem--turned out to be one of the contacts was too wide to make a good connection.

[oneline180]

...i got mine to run properly, idn what the hell it was ... all i did was swap the injector from #2 to #3 and 3 to 2. then, WAHLAH!! perfect running motor... so if you're still having the problem, i hope this helps. If not...then idn what to tell you.

i wonder some times if my car has a mind of its own... IF it had been running normally for the last two months instead of sitting in my driveway taking a break, it probably would have been totalled instead of my mom's car... kinda weird/scary.

My car can see the future...???
Modified by oneline180 at 3:53 AM 5/24/2007

[sstomek]

...i got mine to run properly, idn what the hell it was ... all i did was swap the injector from #2 to #3 and 3 to 2. then, WAHLAH!! perfect running motor... so if you're still having the problem, i hope this helps. If not...then idn what to tell you.

i wonder some times if my car has a mind of its own... IF it had been running normally for the last two months instead of sitting in my driveway taking a break, it probably would have been totalled instead of my mom's car... kinda weird/scary.

My car can see the future...???

Modified by oneline180 at 3:53 AM 5/24/2007

is it still working to this day cause i did that and my number 3 started working again but then 2 minutes later it STOPPED and never started again!

-Tomek

[Didderson]

I had many of the same problems after a DE swap, but it ended up that my distributor was off by 1 tooth. Make sure when you're motor is at TDC, the distributor is striking or just about to strike cylinder number one. It sounds so simple i know, but my motor ran just like that while it was advanced like 40 degrees, missing randomly on all cylinders, I don't know how it ran lol. Hope this helps!

[thomasjamal]

Replacing my ECU and then adjusting timing fixed the random cylinder not firing.

Now my idle is high and the car stalls sometimes when I slow down quickly or push the clutch in from from throttle.

More details here: zer...age=2

[thomasjamal]

updated over here: zer...age=2

Still need some help...